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The hydrophore pump does not pump water. Repair and operation of pumping stations

Constant pressure in the water supply system of a private house is usually created using pumping station. It is clear that it is better if it works without problems, but periodic breakdowns do occur. To quickly restore the water supply and save on services, you can repair the pump station with your own hands. Most of the breakdowns can be fixed on their own - you will not have to do anything super complicated.

The composition of the pumping station and the purpose of the parts

• 1 The composition of the pumping station and the purpose of the parts
  • 1.1 Principle of operation of the pumping station
• 2 Problems and malfunctions of pumping stations and their correction
  • 2.1 The pump station does not turn off (does not build up pressure)
  • 2.2 Repair of the pumping station: often included
  • 2.3 Air in water
  • 2.4 The pump station does not turn on
  • 2.5 The motor buzzes but does not pump water (the impeller does not rotate)
• 3 Some types of repair work
  • 3.1 Replacing the "pear" accumulator

Pumping station - a set of separate devices interconnected. To understand how to repair a pumping station, you need to know what it consists of, and how each part works. Then troubleshooting is easier. The composition of the pumping station:

• Submersible or surface type pump. Pumps water from a well or well, maintains a stable pressure in the system. Connected to the house with pipes.
• A check valve must be installed on the pipeline. It prevents water from flowing back from the pipes back into the well or well when the pump is turned off. It is usually installed on the end of the pipe, lowered into the water.

  What a pumping station consists of

• Hydraulic accumulator or membrane tank. Hermetic metal container, divided into two parts by an elastic membrane. In one, air (inert gas) is under pressure; in the other, until a certain pressure is created, water is pumped. A hydraulic accumulator is necessary to reduce the number of pump starts and extend its service life. Creates and maintains the required pressure in the system and a small reserve water supply in case of station inoperability.
• Control unit and pump station control. Usually this is a pressure gauge and pressure switch, installed between the pump and the accumulator. Pressure gauge is a control device that allows you to evaluate the pressure in the system. The pressure switch controls the operation of the pump - it gives commands to turn it on and off. The pump is turned on when the lower pressure threshold in the system is reached (usually 1-1.6 atm), and it turns off when the upper threshold is reached (for single-story buildings, 2.6-3 atm).

Each part is responsible for a specific parameter, but one type of malfunction can be caused by the failure of various devices.

The principle of operation of the pumping station

Now let's look at how all these devices work. When the system is first started, the pump pumps water into the accumulator until the pressure in it (and in the system) is equal to the upper threshold set on the pressure switch. While there is no water flow, the pressure is stable, the pump is turned off.

Each part does its job

Somewhere they opened a tap, drained the water, etc. For some time, the water comes from the accumulator. When its amount decreases so that the pressure in the accumulator drops below the threshold, the pump turns on, again pumping water. If at the same time there is a constant flow (a bath is typed, the garden / garden is irrigated), the pump works for a long time: until the required pressure is created in the accumulator. This occurs periodically even with open taps, as the pump delivers more water than flows from the tap. After the flow has stopped, it works for some time, creating the required supply in the gyroaccumulator, then it turns off and turns on after the water flow appears.

Problems and malfunctions of pumping stations and their correction

All pumping stations consist of identical parts and their breakdowns are mostly typical. It makes no difference, the equipment is Grundfos, Jumbo, Alco or any other companies. Diseases and their treatment are the same. The difference is how often these malfunctions happen, but their list and causes are usually identical.

Pump station installation options

The pumping station does not turn off (does not build up pressure)

Sometimes you notice that the pump has been running for a long time and will not turn off at all. If you look at the pressure gauge, you can see that the pump station is not gaining pressure. In this case, repair of the pumping station is a long-term business - you will have to go through a large number of reasons:

• There is no water in the well or well. If this is true, this situation is called “dry running” and threatens to cause the motor to burn out. The water that the pump pumps is used to cool the motor. There is no water, it overheats and burns out. To protect against such a situation, special protection is needed: water level sensors (float and electric).
• High resistance of the suction line (large length with a small pipe diameter) or air leakage (leaky connection).
  • To eliminate the influence of the line, lower the suction pipe into the barrel near the pump. If the pressure rises normally, the route is to blame and you either need to seal it at the joints, or lay thicker pipes or straighten the existing one (fewer bends and joints).
  • To check the tightness of the suction line, after switching off the station, observe the pressure gauge for some time. If the pressure drops when the valves are closed, there is a leak in the system. If not, the system is tight.

    DIY pump station repair can save money

• Pipe filter or check valve clogged. They are removed, cleaned, checked for operability, lowered into place and a test run is carried out.
• Another possible reason that the pump does not turn off is a malfunction of the pressure switch or an incorrectly set pump shutdown limit. In this case, you must:
  • The pressure limit at which the pump should shut off is too high, the pump is simply not able to reach the required pressure. Then we carry out adjustment of the pressure switch (reduce the shutdown limit).
  • Check We work in Moscow and the Moscow Region relays - clean them from scale (dark deposits) with sandpaper with very fine grain (you can use a nail file).
  • Repair the pressure switch by cleaning it (remove salts on the adjustment springs and clean the inlet and outlet). Only carefully, the inlet membrane cannot be damaged. If this does not help, a pressure switch must be replaced.

If the limit for tripping the pressure switch is much lower than the maximum pressure that the pump can create, and for some time it worked normally, but then it stops, the reason is different. Perhaps the impeller has worked at the pump. Immediately after the purchase, he managed, but in the process of operation the impeller was worn out and "there is not enough strength now." Repair of the pumping station in this case is the replacement of the pump impeller or the purchase of a new unit.

To unlock or replace the impeller, remove the casing

Another possible reason is low voltage. Maybe the pump still works at this voltage, the pressure switch no longer works. The solution is a voltage stabilizer. These are the main reasons why the pumping station does not turn off and does not build up pressure. There are quite a lot of them so the repair of the pumping station can be delayed.

Pump station repair: often included

Frequent switching on of the pump and short intervals of its operation lead to rapid wear of the equipment, which is very undesirable. Therefore, the repair of the pumping station must be carried out immediately after the detection of the "symptom". This situation occurs for the following reasons:

• Accumulator too small. When choosing a pumping station for a house and a summer residence, they often take a small accumulator - 24 liters or 32 liters. This is very small, since the water supply in such tanks is only 30-50% of its total volume, that is, only 7-12 liters of water can be pumped into a 24-liter tank. Naturally, such a volume of water is consumed very quickly, which is why the pump is often turned on. The method of treatment is the installation of an additional accumulator (it is connected in parallel to the already installed one).
• Incorrectly set pressure switch limits. To avoid this situation, it is possible to increase the delta (the difference between the pressure for turning the pump off and on) and thereby lower the threshold for switching on the pump (optimally - 1-1.5 atm). One important point: the pressure at which the pump starts should be 0.2 atm lower than the pressure in the accumulator. The pumping station can often turn on just because the pressure in the accumulator is lower than the set threshold for turning on the pump. Because:
  • Check the pressure in the accumulator. To do this, remove the plastic cover, under it a nipple (such as a bicycle). We connect the manometer, check the pressure. It is usually within 1-1.5 atm.
  • We bleed or pump (with a bicycle or car pump screwed to the same nipple) so that it is normal.
  • Adjust the pressure switch. Having picked up the parameters, they should get a normally working system.

    Adjust the pressure switch with two springs

• Check valve clogged. If the valve does not block the water, it leaves the system, the pressure drops, the pump turns on. The frequency of inclusion is about 10-20 minutes. Exit - check and clean the check valve, replace if necessary.
• Also, the cause may be damage to the accumulator membrane. In addition to frequent switching on of the pump, water is also supplied in jerks: when the station is operating with high pressure, when it is turned off, the pressure drops immediately. In this case, there are two options - the membrane itself or the fold, which fastens it to the body, have become thin. And in that, and in another case, you will have to disconnect the accumulator and change the faulty part.
• Its one reason for the frequent actuation of the pump and irregular water supply is a broken spool in the upper part of the hydraulic accumulator. To replace it, you will have to remove the accumulator, remove the membrane and replace the nipple.

Now you know why the pumping station often turns on and what to do about it. By the way, there is another possible reason - a leak in the pipeline or some connection, so if all of the above does not apply to your case, check for a junction somewhere.

Air in water

A small amount of air in the water is always present, but when the faucet begins to "spit", then something is working incorrectly. There may also be several reasons:

• The water mirror has lowered and the pump pulls the water in half with air. The solution in this case is simple - lower the pipe or the pump itself below.
• The pipeline has become leaky and air enters through one or more connections. Remedy - Check connections and restore tightness.

  One of the reasons for the large amount of air in the water is the loss of tightness on the suction pipe

Pump station does not turn on

The first thing to check is voltage. Pumps are very demanding on voltage, when they are low, they simply do not work. If everything is normal with the voltage, the situation is worse - most likely the motor is faulty. In this case, the station is carried to a service center or a new pump is installed.

If the system does not work, check the electrical part.

Among other reasons - plug / socket malfunction, frayed cord, burnt / oxidized. We work in Moscow and the Moscow region at the place where the electric cable is attached to the motor. This is something you can check and fix yourself. More serious repairs of the electrical part of the pumping station are carried out by specialists.

The motor buzzes, but does not pump water (the impeller does not rotate)

Such a malfunction may be caused by low voltage. Check it, if everything is normal, go ahead. Check whether the capacitor in the terminal block has burned out. We take a tester, check, if necessary, change. If this is not the reason, go to the mechanical part.

First, check if there is water in the well or well. Next, check the filter and check valve. Maybe they are clogged or malfunctioning. Clean, check operability, lower the pipeline into place, restart the pumping station.

We check the impeller - this is a serious repair of the pumping station

If it doesn’t help, the impeller may jam. Then try manually turning the shaft. Sometimes, after a long period of inactivity, he “sticks” - overgrows with salts and cannot move himself. If you cannot move the blades with your hands, the impeller may be jammed. Then we continue the repair of the pumping station by removing the protective cover and unlocking the impeller.

Some types of repair work

Some actions to repair a pumping station with your own hands are intuitive. For example, cleaning a non-return valve or filter is not difficult, but replacing a membrane or bulb in a hydraulic accumulator can be difficult without preparation.

Replacing the "pear" accumulator

The first sign that the membrane is damaged is frequent and short-term switching on of the pumping station, moreover, the water is supplied in jerks: either a high pressure or a weak one. To make sure that the case is in the membrane, remove the plug on the nipple. If not air, but water comes out of it, then the membrane has broken.

The membrane tank device is useful when replacing a pear

To start repairing the accumulator, disconnect the system from the power supply, relieve pressure - open the taps and wait for the water to drain. After that, you can turn it off.

• Weaken the fastening of the flange at the bottom of the tank. We wait until the water drains.
• We unscrew all the bolts, remove the flange.
• If the tank is 100 liters or more, unscrew the nut of the diaphragm holder at the top of the tank.
• We take out the membrane through the hole in the bottom of the tank.
• We wash the tank - it usually has a lot of rusty sediment.
• The new membrane should be exactly the same as the damaged one. We insert a fitting into it, with which the upper part is attached to the body (we twist).
• We install the membrane in the tank of the accumulator.
• If there is, install the nut of the membrane holder in the upper part. With a large tank size you can’t get it by hand. You can tie the holder to the rope and so install the part in place by screwing the nut.
• We tighten the neck and press the flange, install the bolts, sequentially tightening them several turns.
• We connect to the system and check the work.

The pumping station is no longer just a pump with an electric motor, it is a set of equipment designed to supply water from a well, well, etc. and maintaining the set pressure in the water supply system.

The pumping station includes:

1. Pump.
2. Accumulator
3. Pressure switch.
4. Pressure gauge.
5. The manifold on which the pressure gauge and pressure switch are mounted.
6. Bypass pipe between pump and accumulator.

Failure of any of the elements of the complex threatens to break down the entire station as a whole.

Consider each of these elements.

Pump.

I already wrote about the most common pump failures, as well as about how to repair and prevent them. To whom it is interesting to watch

Accumulator

An ordinary iron barrel with a rubber membrane inside, with a platform for attaching the pump and paws for attaching it itself. On the one hand there is a threaded outlet for water supply, on the other - a standard threaded fitting with a spool for pumping air, usually covered with a rubber or plastic cover. Well, what could happen to him?

The union for air.

More often than not, over time, air is bleed from the air half of the GA. As a result, GA becomes just an iron barrel, without accumulating anything. The pump turns on faster (it turns off too quickly) and more often. Somehow I watched the pump turn on and off 8 times in one minute with the tap on the mixer fully open. Manufacturers allow no more than 2 times per minute. This disease is treated easily and quickly. With any pump (automobile) we raise the pressure in the air half to half the maximum pressure of the water. Initially there was - 1.5 bar, but 2.8-3.0 bar was also initially set on water. Therefore, it is better to half or, if you did not touch anything on the pressure switch, 1.5 bar.

Unfortunately, any other incident with the GA is fatal for him. For example, rupture of the membrane (almost impossible, but once seen) or freezing (this is more often, usually in summer residents). I think it is unnecessary to remind you that the air pressure in the GA should be checked and, if necessary, raised with the pump turned off and zero pressure at the pressure.

Pressure switch.

Pressure switch: 1. Contact group. 2.Small spring. 3. Large spring. 4..Fixing wires. 5. Pressure sensor.

Usually, a black box with two wires, usually screwed at one end to the pressure manifold. On the outside there is a plastic screw, unscrewing which, you can remove the cover and look inside. Inside there are two springs: a larger and a smaller one, as well as a contact group for connecting wires. A large spring is responsible for the shutdown pressure, a small one for the difference between switching on and off. Accordingly, tightening the big spring with a nut, we raise the shut-off pressure, i.e. pressure in the system, releasing the spring - we reduce it.

It is important to remember that a small spring does not regulate the limit for switching on the pump, but is responsible for the difference between the pressures. For example, the default settings: on - 1.5 bar, off - 2.8 bar. If you raise the switch-off pressure to 3.5 bar, the pump will now turn on at 2.2 bar without any additional adjustment. To reduce this difference, a small spring needs to be pulled together; to increase - to let go.

Be careful! The thread on the taxiway may be different.

The device is pretty simple and reliable. But (again this is “but”) after a certain period of operation, the limits of switching on and off begin to “float”. Most often, they notice that the pump either does not turn off at all, or turns off after prolonged use (several minutes). The pressure switch is to blame for this, of course, if you did not overestimate the shut-off pressure during adjustment so that the pump simply cannot cope. Usually, they just lower the cut-off threshold a little (by 0.1-0.2 bar) and that’s it. Sometimes it is necessary to change the entire pressure switch (since it is not so expensive) because of burnt contacts of the contact group or because of the inability to properly adjust the shutdown threshold (either a lot or a little, but the average cannot be caught). I can not say about the ill-fated cover of the pressure switch (I have come across it more than once). When closing and compressing it, it has the property to change the cut-off threshold (usually up) by displacing the pin on which the large spring is located, and for which this cover is attached. At the same time, pressure has to be caught at random. But it’s better than changing all the relays.

  Pressure gauge.

Feel the difference. Right crushed manometer.

Perhaps the most harmless device at the pumping station, without which, in principle, you can do. I saw manometers with broken glass, without an arrow, crushed (they show more than they are), and always persuaded me to leave everything as it is. The absence of a pressure gauge does not affect the station’s operation, but replace it: this is still a hassle, on a soured collector! Want to check it out?

Collector.

Broke, despite all the precautions.

“So what is special about him?” You ask, and you will be absolutely right. Nothing, a collector and a collector. But only after many years of operation of the station in adverse conditions, all threaded connections sour tightly. In the best case, in the kitchen, and usually in the bathroom, in the hallway (in the entrance hall), in the basement, at the top of the well, in the well itself, in the bathhouse, in the boiler room, etc. And even after processing with the "liquid wrench", it is not always possible to quickly and painlessly remove a manometer or pressure switch, given the small thread size. Therefore, I just urge you to be careful, if possible, do not remove or replace them. Well, and if that ... you have to look for a “collector for the pumping station” in the store.

ABOUT overflow pipei will not write anything. Pipe and pipe. Usually, this is a flexible eyeliner with a larger or smaller diameter. If the station is (e.g. based deep pump), then it’s just a pipe between the pump and the accumulator. Again, usually, connections are broken, not pipes. But if you have questions, ask, I will answer with pleasure.

All that remains after a frosty winter.

And now, especially for summer residents.

  Preparation of the pumping station for winter.

1. Disconnect power from the station (unplug the power plug, turn off the circuit breaker).
2. Relieve pressure in the system: open, if there is, drainage, if there is no drainage, open the crane closest to the station.
3. Disconnect suction hose. Attention! Residual water from the system will flow from the pump! Be careful and careful.
4. Disconnect the pressure hose or pipe.
5. Check the air pressure in the accumulator. If there is nothing, calmly skip this point.
6. If the air pressure in the GA is greater than or equal to 1.5 bar, then skip the next item.
7. If the air pressure in the hydraulic fluid is less than 1.5 bar or it was not possible to check (item 5), we pump the above pressure with any suitable pump or until the water flow from the suction pipe of the pumping station stops.
8. If there is no suitable pump, we immediately rush to the store for a bottle for a neighbor who may have such a pump, and be sure to carry out step 7. The hydraulic accumulator costs a lot more than a bottle for a neighbor.
9. We drain the remaining water from the pump, turning it over in every way.
10. We drain the remains of water from all hoses and pipes.
11. We hide the pumping station and hose pipes in a secluded place until spring.

  Preparation of the pumping station for start-up after winter.

1. We get the pump station and hoses and pipes we need from a secluded place.
2. We check the air pressure in the accumulator, I hope now there is something.
3. We bring the air pressure to the necessary. (Have you already bought a pump? Well, at least a bicycle?)
4. We install the pumping station in its crown place.
5. We connect the suction hose, after checking the operation of the check valve on its tail.
6. Through the discharge pipe, pour water into the pump to the top (until it flows).
7. We connect a pressure head hose or a pipe.
8. We connect power to the station: turn on the safety circuit breaker.
9. Once again, we check the reliability and correctness of the connection of all connections.
10. We plug the plug into the outlet, we are convinced of the operability of the pumping station.

Now, it seems, all about pumping stations. But you ask, I could have missed or forgot something.

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Reviews (1,598) on “Repair and maintenance of pumping stations.”

Good day to all! I have such a problem: A membrane burst in the hydraulic tank, I bought a new one. Replaced it, decided to pump air into the tank, and somehow he immediately went into the hydraulic pump. I decided that they sold the defective membrane. I got it filled with water, the water does not leak anywhere and visually it is whole. I can’t understand what the problem is. Can anyone come across a similar one, please tell me how this can be fixed. Station Whirlwind ASV 1200/50

1. Hello Dmitry.
      Yes, funny ... And you, Dmitry, when they put the membrane in the tank, they immediately filled it with water, naturally, on the water side, or what? If flooded, then when pumping, water would go. And so - went the air remaining in it, on the other hand. The tank is tight. Even if you pump up air with the hydraulic tank disconnected from the pump, as you generally need to do, some air on the other hand will still remain. It will come out later, with time, when the tank will be periodically filled with water.

Pressure in the tank is not created because all supplied air enters the hydraulic pump.

the fact is that there is no way to create air pressure in the tank. no matter how much I pump it, all the air goes into the hydraulic pump.

1. Dmitry, I’m wondering, where does such confidence come from, that it is the injected air that enters the pump?
      As I wrote last time, try pumping air into a hydraulic tank disconnected from the "hydraulic pump" so that it is guaranteed not to get there. And if this does not work out, you need to look for a hole through which the air leaves. And this search very much resembles the search for a hole in a punched wheel. On the disconnected and removed from the pump station, the hydraulic tank is much easier and easier to look for a leak.

1. Hello Dmitry.
      You should at least write for which pump plug! I measured those that are lying in the garage: one M10 from the vortex pump, the other two - M12 from the centrifugal Aquarium. Moreover, for different "Aquarium", old and newer, traffic jams are different! With different threading steps! ... I don’t understand anything either, but what is - is.

Hello! Please explain when I turn on the faucet on the washbasin, the pump works, but then it starts to turn on and off, it also happens when I turn on washing machine, and when I turn on the faucet in the shower cubicle it works fine. It turns out that with a small pressure of water something is missing for him, with good everything is fine. The pressure at rest is 1.9, when I turn on the water drops to 0.5, turn off the water rises to 2 , 9 and the whistle begins. I press the sash manually, calms down.

I forgot to write: The pumping station marina, the same as in the picture above. The water intake from the well, the height of the water rise is not more than 4 meters, from the well to the house the distance is not more than 15 meters.

1. Hello Svetlana.
      The accumulator (GA) does not work for you. Therefore, the pressure in the system rises and falls very quickly. You see it as a quick on-off pump automation (she really does, this is her job). When the water flow is larger (in the shower), the pump cannot raise the pressure to the shutdown level. Reduce consumption - and the "whistle" starts again.
      You need to check and pump air into the GA. Let me remind you that air is checked and pumped into the hydraulic circuit with a de-energized pump (station), zero pressure of water in the system, and at least one open tap so that water can flow out of it calmly. Unfortunately, it is not entirely clear what pressure on the pump is set automatically. Just by this pressure they are guided by the necessary air pressure in the GA. It should be slightly less than the switching pressure. If you did not change anything in automation (did not twist), then by default there should be 1.4-1.5 atm.

Hello! GA pumped up to 1.5, began to turn on a little with a delay after opening the tap, everything seems to be normal. The problem was different: when you turn on the shower hot and cold water, the pump does not turn on for a long time and therefore the flow of cold water occurs in waves, respectively, then hot waterthen normal. With automation already worked)). Turns on from 1 bar rises to 2.5, turns off, drops to 1.2 and turns on again.

1. Hello Svetlana.
      I will swear 🙂. It seems that you did not read the previous answer very carefully.
      1. Air pressure in GA should be slightly less than the pump start pressure. And you pumped more. Therefore, the pump is switched on with a delay.
      2. Yes, I did not write about this ... But usually, people try to intuitively reduce the difference in on-off pressure. In particular, the lower the on-off pressure, the smaller the difference between them, up to the minimum possible, should be about 0.5-0.6 atm.
      In your case, it would be necessary to increase the switch-on pressure to approximately 1.9-2.0 atm with an increase in the switch-off pressure to 2.7 and higher. The switch-on pressure of 2.2 atm and shut-off pressure of 2.9 atm would be ideal. Then the water pressure drops from the tap will be minimal, there will be no these "waves" of heat and cold. Accordingly, the air pressure in the GA with the “ideal variant” should be 2.1 atm.
   There are nuances related to the general hydraulics of the system, but try to do so for now. Hydraulically, I need more information about your system.

Having a well and a pumping station, the owner of a private house can afford to be independent of centralized water supply.

However, the equipment must be repaired in case of failure.

The main components of a modern pumping station are:

• pump (in most cases - centrifugal surface installation);
• pressure switch;
• a membrane or balloon accumulator, divided into two parts: one enters water, the other contains air with overpressure.

The pump is switched on and off automatically by means of a pressure switch. As soon as the pressure in the water supply drops to a certain minimum value (set by the user), the contacts in the relay close and the pump starts pumping water. The fluid is pumped into the accumulator, while the air inside it is compressed like a spring, due to which the pressure in the system gradually increases.

Typical pump station design

As soon as it reaches a certain maximum value (also set by the user when configuring the relay), the pump will be switched off.

The water supply and - most importantly - the pressure in the accumulator will allow for some time to use the water supply when the pump is not working.

As water is consumed, the pressure in the system will again drop to the minimum and the relay will start the unit.

Both balloon and membrane accumulators operate on the same principle, but have a different device.

In a tank tank, water is collected in a rubber bulb, which gradually stretches, compressing the surrounding air. The advantage of this technology is that water does not come into contact with the metal walls of the tank.

The diaphragm accumulator is divided in two by a rubber membrane, which, when filling one part with water, also stretches and begins to compress air in the second part.

  A pressure switch is a device that starts and shuts down the pump, depending on the pressure level in the water supply system. - an important setup step autonomous water supply, The correct operation of the pumping station as a whole depends on the correct relay settings.

Specifications submersible pump  “Baby” you will find.

At the time of buying well pump you need to be sure that the device can provide an uninterrupted supply of water to the house. In this topic you will learn what types of pumps exist and which is better to choose for a country house.

Common problems and solutions

Without a normally functioning water supply system, it is not worth dreaming about a comfortable life in a private house, it is not without reason that the water supply system is called vital.

There are several symptoms that suggest that certain elements of the pumping station need repair.

The shaft rotates, but the pressure in the system does not increase.

Possible reasons:

1. The pump cannot develop sufficient power due to a decrease in voltage in the mains. To prevent such situations, you should choose a unit with a power reserve.
2. There are leaks in the water supply system: a pipe may have burst or a threaded joint leak has occurred. It is necessary to detect the place of the accident and eliminate the fault. The burst pipe should be replaced, the poor-quality threaded connection should be sealed by wrapping a larger amount of tow or fum tape on the thread.
3. Water does not enter the pipeline: we check whether there is water in the pump and the suction line. If not, fill the water through a special hole in the pump housing. If the water leaves without stopping, it means that the check valve on the suction pipe has broken. Perhaps nothing bad happened, and the valve simply became clogged with sand or long-fiber inclusions. If any of its parts is out of order, it will have to be replaced.

You should also check if the water level in the source is too low. If the suspicion is confirmed, lower the suction hose as low as possible. His condition, by the way, will also be useful to check. If there are cracks or crevices in the connections, air can leak into the suction line, as a result of which the pump stops pumping water.

If the pump and the suction line are still filled with water, then it's time to change the worn impeller or housing. In the process, they are gradually erased by numerous solid particles moving at high speed.

If too much sealing material is wound, the nut may burst when screwing on the nut or fitting.

To avoid this, the number of strands of sanitary flax or tow should be increased gradually, each time checking the tightness of the connection. This should be done until you learn how to determine the required volume of sealant on the eye.

The pressure on the manometer jumps, and the water enters in jerks

If the pressure gauge needle, having barely reached its maximum mark, immediately begins to slide, forcing the pump to turn on again and again, the cause must be sought in the following phenomena:

1. There are leaks in the pipeline. We already spoke about this in the previous section.
2. Cracks and gaps appeared on the suction line.
3. If the pump “grabs” air, water will also be supplied unevenly. Gaps must be detected and eliminated.
4. The accumulator is broken: the first thing to do is to press with the finger the valve of the spool intended for pumping air. If water comes out of the hole, it means that a rubber balloon or membrane has leaked. This part must be replaced. In the case of a cylinder, replacement is very simple, but some types of membranes can only be replaced by specialists. If air escapes from the spool with a hiss, his pressure must be checked by draining water from the accumulator.

Normally, the pressure should be approximately 1.5 atm, a more accurate value is 90% of the pump start pressure.  Both too low pressure and too high lead to the same consequences: the pump starts to turn on every minute, and the tap water flows in a pulsating flow. Most often, the air in the accumulator has to be pumped up, for which a conventional automobile pump is used. Check the pressure again shortly after pumping.

If it fell, the case may be as follows:

• the spool valve is clogged and cannot fully close: the spool must be purged;
• there was a depressurization of the case: the accumulator must be taken to a service center, although some craftsmen mend them at home with the help of "cold welding".

During operation of the hydraulic tank, that part of it that is connected to the water supply system is gradually filled with air released from the water.

To prevent the tank from working half-way, this air should be removed approximately every 1 to 2 months - either through the valve intended for this (installed in models with a volume of more than 100 l) or by emptying it.

The device cannot be turned on

Possible reasons:

1. Motor winding burned out: the most obvious sign of winding burnout is an unpleasant "chemical" smell of molten insulation. But the winding should still ring with the help of a tester. If the "diagnosis" is confirmed, the engine is rewound (it is better to invite an electrician with experience).
2. Relay contacts need to be cleaned.

After switching on, the pump buzzes, but the shaft does not rotate

Possible reasons:

1. The capacitor is out of order. This item should be replaced with a suitable one.
2. The impeller has stuck: this phenomenon can occur after prolonged shutdown of the unit. In this case, the pump must be turned off, and then try to rotate the impeller manually. We again supply power to the pump, now everything should work.

The pump does not turn off

Possible reasons:

1. Depressurization of the water supply network.
2. Incorrect relay operation.

To understand how to fix the situation, you need to get to know this device more closely.

Principle of operation and relay settings

  The electromechanical relay of the pumping station has a pipe or flange through which it is connected to the pressure pipe.

After joining, water begins to act on the membrane, which through the rod is connected to the contacts.

With increasing and decreasing pressure, the membrane can move in one direction or another and, at a certain position, closes the contacts, as a result of which power is supplied to the pump.

There are two springs in the relay housing that differ in size. Each of them is put on a rod with a nut, rotating which the spring can be pushed or loosened.

The largest spring is installed opposite the membrane. If this spring is compressed with the appropriate nut, it will begin to counteract the movement of the membrane.

The stronger the compression of the spring, the higher the pressure in the pipeline must be so that the membrane moves to the desired distance and closes the contacts.

In this way, the switching pressure (lower) is adjusted.

Tightening or loosening the nut of the small spring, set the difference between the shut-off pressure (upper) and the turn-on pressure. Please note: it is not the shutdown pressure itself, but the difference between it and the lower pressure. Thus, if you change the tightness of a small spring, only the upper pressure will change. If you turn the nut of a large spring, both the lower and upper pressure will simultaneously change.

If the value of the upper pressure exceeds the capacity of the pump, it will not be able to turn off.

Relay setting

Pressure switch adjustment is carried out in several stages:

1. First of all, you need to make sure that the relay inlet is not clogged with sand or silt. If necessary, it must be thoroughly cleaned and washed.
2. After draining the system, check the air pressure in the accumulator.
3. After removing the cover from the relay, loosen the large spring as much as possible.
4. In manual mode, start the pump and turn it off as soon as the pressure gauge shows a pressure of 1.5 atm.
5. Slowly tighten the nut on the large spring until the relay clicks (the contacts close). This will mean that the relay is set to a switching pressure of 1.5 atm.
6. Tighten the nut as much as possible on the small spring.
7. In manual mode, turn on the pump and turn it off when a pressure of 3 atm is reached. (we follow the manometer).
8. Having switched off the pump, gradually release the small spring until the contacts in the relay open with a distinctive click. This will mean that the relay is set to a trip pressure of 3 atm. (more precisely, the difference is 1.5 atm. between the upper and lower pressure).

Please note: all work on setting the pressure switch should be carried out taking into account electrical safety requirements.

  The pump is not always suitable for uninterrupted water supply at home, often its capacity is not enough to fully raise the water into the house. We will deal with this in the article. Connecting the station to the well, the issue price.

Read how the pump is installed to increase the water pressure and the pump station in the block.

Related videos

In a private house or in the country, owners often use an autonomous water supply system. Water is supplied from the well to the pipes and breakdown points using a pump or pump station.

The pump simply raises the water up, and its operation must be regulated by turning it on and off. The pump station turns on automatically when the pressure starts to drop and does not require monitoring.

For the operation of this device, a sufficient amount of water in the well and electric power are necessary. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the design features of the pumps and their types.

The device of the pumping station with a storage tank

This is an outdated model of a pumping station. The principle of its operation is to fill the tank with water. The float indicates an insufficient amount of water in the tank and the pump automatically turns on and pumps water to the desired level.

This is a rather cumbersome system, if the sensor stops working, water can overflow, pressure is not strong, as water flows by gravity from the tank. The tank is installed above the pump level, which is difficult to install.

Accumulator pump system

She is more comfortable. The relay controls the level of air compressed under water pressure. When water is drawn in, the pressure in the system drops and the relay switches on the pump, and water is pumped into the tank.

The composition of the pumping station

The pumping station includes a pumping device. It is placed in the utility room or in a metal box outside the house. It is important to correctly calculate the power of the device so that it is enough to lift water from the well to the highest parsing point in the house.

Hydraulic accumulator - maintains pressure in the water supply system. This is a metal cylinder with a rubber membrane. When water is pumped, it stretches, and when the pump stops working, it pushes water out of the tank, returning to its original position.

To automatically turn on the pump, the station is equipped with an automation unit with a sensor showing pressure. In accordance with its performance, the relay regulates the operation of the pump.

The composition of the pumping station:

• Surface pump;
• Accumulator;
• automatic block;
• Relay;
• Cable;
• Monometer;
• Grounding terminals;
• Connectors for connection.

All of these individual nodes are assembled on a frame. The surface pump is placed on the battery. Separately mounted automatic control unit.

Autonomous water supply system requires a large start-up investment. It is necessary to drill and equip the well, lay water pipes, install pumping equipment, and monitor the sufficient water level in the well.

But, on the other hand, you will not have to pay for water, you will not depend on accidents and blackouts on the main water supply. Local water supply requires care and maintenance. Some nodes of the station may periodically fail. A good host should be able to fix typical problems on their own.

Types of pumping stations

By type of work, pumping stations are divided into ejector stations without this device. The ejector delivers water upward due to discharge. These models are quite expensive in price, but more efficient in operation. They pump water from a great depth (up to 45 m).

The disadvantage of the ejector pump is the loud noise that the pump makes during operation. Therefore, such units are installed in separate rooms outside the house.

Remote ejector pump

This is an immersion device. The ejector is placed in the pipe of the well, creating a suction stream. Together with water, air or sand can get into it. And the ejector gets clogged. This is his flaw. The pump can be installed at home.

Ejectorless pumps

Water intake in ejectorless pumps is carried out by a hydraulic system. Such units are less energy consuming, work silently.

How to fix malfunctions in pumping stations yourself

This guide will help pump station owners troubleshoot common problems without the help of specialists.

Types of malfunctions

The pump unit rotates but no water flows

If, when the pump is turned on, its impeller rotates, and water does not flow into the water supply, this may be the cause of the malfunction, which are discussed below:

1. The integrity of the connections in the pipeline may be impaired.  The check valve between the well and the pump is not active enough. Foreign objects can get into it. For this reason, the spring inside it breaks. If contamination occurs, the valve is removed and cleaned. If it fails, the valve will have to be replaced completely.
2. After a long break in the pump, water may escape from the pipe between the well and the pump.  Water must be added to a special filling hole.
3. In the summer season, the water level in the well can drop significantly.  The pump should be lowered down into the well pipe. In this case, there is a danger of dirt entering the inlet pipe. It is necessary to equip it with a filter.
4. If the pump rotates and water does not enter the pipeline, there may be insufficient voltage. The rotor rotation force is not enough to supply water at a distance. In this case, you should test the voltage in the mains.
5. The quality of the pump depends on the condition of the rotating blades.  If they wear out, the pump will run weaker. Disassemble the pump, an impeller is mounted on bolts under its cover. Look at her condition. When removing it, difficulties may arise with bolts.
   To remove them effortlessly, treat with a chemical. You are lucky if you can find a separate pump impeller for sale. Most likely, you will have to change the entire device. It is extremely unprofitable for manufacturers to sell spare parts for pumps.

The pump in the station starts up too often and supplies jerky water

1. A malfunction of the automation can cause such a malfunction.  The pressure gauge gives either large pressure indicators, or sharply dropped. This means that the rubber membrane in the pressure accumulator is damaged. You can check this with the nipple on the back of the battery case. Air should come out of it when pressed. If water leaks, the membrane is damaged. It can be replaced. To do this, disassemble the battery and replace the membrane with a new one.
2. If the air pressure is less than 1.8 atmospheres, which are required for this device, water can also flow in jerks. Air is behind the membrane. It can be pumped through a nipple in the battery case. If cracks have formed in it, they must first be repaired. If you cannot restore the device, you will have to replace it completely.
3. A malfunction of the automatic unit entails a similar malfunction.

The pumping station works, but the water comes in jerky, intermittently

Unstable water in the system can be triggered by air entering it. Such a malfunction occurs when the tightness of the connection between the suction and inlet pipes is lost. Ensure the integrity of the connections and lower the suction pipe deeper into the well.

The pump constantly pumps water without shutting down

The water pressure switch in the system is not well adjusted. Disassemble the device. A small spring shows more and less pressure, and a larger one controls the on / off of the pump. With long work, the springs lose their elasticity and the initial indicators change. During the operation of the moving parts of the pump, the pressure indicators change.

By adjusting the spring, decrease the larger pressure value. If the relay outlet is contaminated with water, remove it and clean it.

Pumping station does not turn on

A pumping station may disconnect during operation or not at all due to a power outage or low voltage in the network. Test these metrics. Also check the tightness of the insulation and windings. If there is a characteristic smell of burnt, it is better to replace the engine.

The pump unit makes a hum but does not spin

If the pump is not used for a long time, the rotor wheels may lock up. Try turning the shaft by hand. If this fails, disassemble the pump and remove the cause of the impeller jam.

If the cause is still not in the rotor, check the capacitor in the terminal box. Apply a tester for this. Or maybe the network is just low voltage.

You see, the main more typical malfunctions in the operation of the pumping station can be eliminated without the help of a master, on your own.

Repair of the pumping station jilex jumbo

Jilex Jumbo is a popular model of pumping stations. Problems encountered while using this equipment are identical to those described earlier in this article. This may damage the pressure switch, or the pump motor. Spare parts can be found in specialized stores. In the workshops, you can do diagnostics and troubleshooting.

Repair of pump station grundfos

Danish pumps are protected against overloads and are resistant to power line surges.

They show high performance. Therefore, they are used even in industrial premises.

The cause of the breakdown may be a factor that does not depend on the quality of the equipment - deposits on the inner walls of the equipment.

It is necessary to disassemble the damaged components and eliminate rust. Subsequently, plaque will form less if the inner walls are polished.

First clean the rotor and shaft. Most often grundfos pumps  fail due to the fault of the sensors. Remove the cover from the control unit, unscrew the screws and remove the sensor by hand.

Since this unit is made of plastic, it must be cleaned carefully with a brush.

A solution of vinegar and water 1: 1, poured into the system, will clean the system from plaque.

The pump may stop working due to seized bearings or reduced pressure. It is not necessary to disassemble the device for every malfunction. Try to operate it manually. Remove the switch from the stopper.

If the pump only works this way, then the flowing water sensor is out of order and should be replaced.

If the motor winding burns out, spare parts for it can be purchased at a service center.

Installation pumping equipment  requires a separate room in the house or coffer.

In the basement of the house, this will be more practical. The station vibrates during operation. It must be installed without touching the walls.
If the pump will be installed in the caisson, care must be taken that it does not freeze in winter. Caisson should be insulated.

The installation procedure is as follows:

• Assemble the ejector with a strainer below;
• A bronze clutch is installed at the outlet
• Pipes are laid in trenches below the level of soil freezing;
• The pipe is connected to the ejector by means of a coupling

The head of the pipe is put on the casing and secured with use.

Pump fixing

It is very important to install the pump correctly, as it vibrates during operation. It needs to be well fixed and tracked so that it does not touch the walls. From vibration, the pump parts will quickly fail.

What are the advantages of automatic pumping stations

Pumping stations maintain a constant pressure of water in the water supply system. When the components and parts are in good condition, the water supply is constant and uninterrupted, as in the communal system of the central water supply.