We make ventilation of the basement or cellar of a country house, various schemes of the device and their features. The ventilation system in the basement of a private house.
How to build the most productive ventilation in your cellar or basement and keep the crop until next year? In general, there is nothing complicated. It is only necessary to precisely calculate everything and acquire the necessary materials and tools.
Dry cellar: making proper ventilation
To start the cellar:
- We thoroughly clean, dry.
- All racks must be disassembled, taken up.
- Wash and dry well in the sun.
Sanitize, composition:
In the case of isolated houses, the penetration rate of mold is 8, 2%, and unpaid houses - 9, 3%. The difference may even be in the field of statistical errors. One of the biggest opponents of polystyrene walls is the German architect Conrad Fischer, who noted that artificial material blocks any air circulation, causes condensation inside the insulation, condensation that does not evaporate, and during winter freezing Irreparable damage to the structural strength of the building.
Due to moisture, the walls become colder, and as a result, thermal insulation loses its original properties, starting to behave like a wet sweater, which not only does not warm the room, but retains ice cream. According to engineer Matthias Bauman, residents of polystyrene buildings are forced to struggle with humidity over time, spending more and more money on heating compared to residents of uninsulated buildings.
- incomplete bucket of cold water;
- about three kilograms of lime;
- 50 g of vitriol.
Remove pests that could get along with fruits and vegetables. For 9 m3 of the cellar is taken:
- Three kilograms of quicklime.
- They put it in whatever capacity and fill it with cold water.
- You must immediately leave the cellar and close it tightly.
- Re-processing should be done in a week.
For the cellar, with a total area (up to 10 m2) for air exchange, you must take:
German experts believe that the economic benefits of thermal insulation are doubtful. In conclusion, those who criticize polystyrene advise us to look for materials with capillary permeability and high density. What do we recommend in these conditions? Ceramic liquid ultrasonic liquid ceramic materials are available on the market, which are an effective, safe, cheap and simple solution for the thermal insulation of individual houses and apartments in high-rise buildings, as well as administrative, commercial and industrial buildings.
Thermal insulation using liquid, ultrasonic ceramic materials is the latest thermal insulation method, wherever there is a need for hot or cold insulation. Figure 1 shows a comparison of the traditional method with heat-insulating liquid crystal materials.
- two pipes: cross section 14 X 14 cm;
- but one can be applied: a cross section of at least 16 cm.
You need to make it two-channel. On the first channel, the air will remain, and on the second leaves. The cellar must be equipped with a thermometer (alcohol) or a psychrometer.
Experienced very good results in this area for a long time made it possible to widely use them in various fields of industry and social activities. Ceramic heat-insulating materials with ceramic and silicon microspheres are liquid ceramic polymers with energy-saving properties that work on new physical principles that are different from conventional heat-insulating materials. Materials in the form of a thick fluid are compositions that, in addition to rubber and synthetic water-soluble acrylic polymers, contain silicon microspheres having a diameter of 0.02 mm vacuum and ceramic microspheres with a diameter of 0.01 mm vacuum.
Proper ventilation in the garage should:
- Ensure a continuous stream of fresh air.
- Produce the conclusion of all vapors, heavy odors and moisture.
- Prevent the creation of condensate, and, therefore, damage to the provisions and the car.
Now there are several types of supply and exhaust ventilation system:
The materials are diluted with water. After applying the material to the surface, in order to be protected during the evaporation of water and to cure it around, silicone microspheres are formed as a result of an electrostatic field, cocoons are microspheres of vacuum. Thus structured silicon microspheres and ceramic microspheres create a strong elastic structure in the deposited composition, which has a high degree of heat resistance. The polymer in the composition of the material forms, in turn, a film structure located in the longitudinal layers separated from each other by a shallow air hole.
- Natural - air exchange in the garage is only due to thermal convection (warmer air rises and exits, but the cold enters the street). This type of ventilation is more popular and generally available. But completely unsuitable: huge areas in the summer, frosty winter days.
- Forced is the installation of a fan. Such a ventilation system is the most productive, but it will require: mandatory electricity, indispensable material costs.
Rules for installing natural ventilation include:
This leads to the creation of a layered and thermally reflective elastic membrane, which prevents the penetration of moisture and blocks heat transfer mechanisms. Since the adhesion of the material to the surface to be applied is very good, corrosion and rust removal are prevented.
Achieving thermal insulation on an insulating surface requires cleaning it in a suitable way from the material from which it is made, and then applying a liquid ceramic thermal insulation material. To do this, you can use brushes or paint rollers when the insulated surfaces are up to 50 square meters, as well as spray guns for plaster and paint when we have large insulated surfaces.
- one pipe in order to ensure direct air flow;
- another for output.
The main thing is to arrange the pipes in different angles. And there are several ways to do this:
- Pipe through the floor, the roof of the garage.
- Take out (through any wall of the cellar), then - in a vertical position upwards, along the entire wall of the garage.
It is only necessary to fulfill several conditions:
The main advantages of using ceramic liquid thermal insulation coatings in civil structures, construction and industrial installations, systems and pipelines for transporting liquids. It provides thermal insulation in the most favorable conditions of a wide variety of structures, buildings, blocks, machines, plants, storage tanks, tanks and railway vehicles for oil products, steam pipes, hot water, crude oil, Nitrogen, oxygen, etc. located outside or inside, above ground or underground, underwater and underwater, representing an effective and economical alternative to the high cost of classic thermal insulation systems.
- The correct pipe outlet should be: higher than the garage level (more than a meter).
- The total length of the exhaust pipe should be: at least three meters.
- Installing a deflector (to increase traction) in the upper lobe.
Arrangement of the inlet:
- the approach is closer down (35–55 cm);
- from floor to ceiling (1.7–2.0).
Forced ventilation: the dissimilarity of this system is the presence of a fan in the exhaust system.
Unique thermophysical features. Ceramic coatings show a unique property of thermal reflection, the reflection coefficient of solar radiation is 95%, which, for example, does not allow oil products to become very hot in tanks; Product evaporation is reduced and, as a result, the filling of oil tankers can be increased.
99% of the energy radiation in contact with the layer of ceramic material is reflected, and only 1% is absorbed by it so that it does not pass through the energy and does not accumulate it. Very high adhesion to a large number of materials and surfaces, which eliminates the possibility of moisture and corrosion; Cannot be removed from the surface on which it was applied; Do not hack.
The main thing:
- Choose a model that can be used in conditions of increased humidity.
- Carry out all the waterproofing rules of the applicable electrical equipment.
The ventilation system of the cellar guarantees:
It can be used for metal, concrete, brick, wood, glass, plastic, rubber and many other surfaces and materials. It is diluted with water, which allows you to work indoors without ventilation. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer with ceramic material is approx. 40 times less insulation with classic insulation materials.
Provides thermal insulation in inaccessible places where classic materials are not possible. No need for additional protective coatings. Low volume and light weight of transport. Possibilities of application and thermal insulation at high installations without the use of expensive specialized technologies and equipment.
- Good conditions for saving stocks.
- Finding people in the house will remain comfortable.
If the ventilation is not set correctly:
- Negatively affect the health of the inhabitants of the house.
- Stench and dampness will spread.
- These have to breathe.
What can be done:
- Forced method: involves a stationary device - a fan. This is great for large areas. It is installed on an exhaust pipe.
Can be used for regular ventilation. For example, only periodically: to dry the cellar. The cellar, which is located under the house is endowed with some features: the pipe is carried only through the ground section of the foundation, along the entire wall.
It is used for both types of temperatures. Classical application methods by spray, brush or roller. The ease of application is significantly shorter than other types of insulation. Condensation and rust on protected surfaces are avoided.
It does not require any costs for long-term operation of thermal insulation. Very low weight: lighter than any other known insulation. The buildings and structures to which they are applied are not additionally loaded and are not required in technological buildings and canals.
Reduces the volume and weight of any building structure, part or equipment. Very high warranty period in operation in comparison with classical. If we are talking about economical and thoughtful thermal insulation of a house, then this should be done in those places where large heat losses occur. According to research and measurements, heat loss depends on the position and type of building. Table 1 shows the losses for some types of dwellings.
Then, through the entire basement of the house (of course, if there is one). And an indispensable condition:
- the pipe must be with the smallest number of kinks and bends;
- as short as possible;
- preferably without any extensions and narrowings.
In winter, it is advisable to prevent snowing the supply pipe. The area that remains outside must be insulated. This will prevent excessive condensation in the pipe.
If you look away from the outside, through the thermal imaging room, to the walls of the house, you will find that part of the heat passes through the walls from the inside outward unevenly. It should be noted that the highest temperature is recorded in the area of \u200b\u200bradiators and radiators, window gaskets, window blinds, joints between panels in prefabricated panels. The rest of the walls are much colder. Thus, the greatest heat loss occurs through the above locations, compared to the rest of the wall. Therefore, the insulation of the outer walls should be differentiated for each wall section by applying different thicknesses of insulation.
Requests are clear and doable:
- Complete darkness: there are no windows in the cellar, and electric lighting only happens when people are there.
- Low temperature: the cellar is in the basement.
- Fresh air: supplied by the formation of supply and exhaust ventilation.
- Comparative humidity: must be no more than 80%.
Only under these conditions will the products be saved.
In the case of classical isolation this is not possible. Using liquid thermal insulation materials, you can adjust the thickness of the insulation yourself anywhere on the wall as needed. You will apply one, two or three layers of a thickness of 0.5 mm, and not on the entire surface of the wall. Each part of the wall will be covered as needed, and critical points with large heat losses will isolate them with maximum thickness.
Thermal insulation with ceramic materials can be made indoors at any time of the year and in any weather. Thus, if you have an apartment or house 4 1, you only need to isolate it in two layers, approx. 5 square meters, wall in the radiator area and approx. 10 square meters, areas adjacent to the windows, which means 15 square meters. For this you need only 19 liters of ceramic material.
Why is ventilation in the cellar important?
Important for:
- Long-term storage of supplies. And without ventilation, the air is moist and musty. This will lead to an early decay of the fruit.
- When the ventilation system is excessive, the following problem will arise: drafts will begin to form, which will quickly lead to the drying out of fruits and vegetables.
Ventilation can be difficult, and only specialists can do it. But there is also quite simple and you can do it on your own.
There are very good materials and technologies for roof insulation, but they are expensive and must be carried out by specialists with the necessary equipment. We propose to cover the ceilings in the rooms with a layer of ceramic thermal insulation material. It is known that people perceive heat and cold on their feet much more strongly than other parts of the body. On the one hand, the legs are in the lower part of the body, away from the energy centers of the body. On the other hand, the temperature of the floor is always lower than in the ceiling. Typically, the thermostat that controls the boiler or boiler is fixed so that the information on the display can be easily read.
The easiest option:
- Knock out holes in the basement: through which clean air will come into the basement.
- It is necessary to break through them on opposite walls.
- Holes are better to immediately make more, and be sure to close the nets from mice. But such ventilation is not very effective.
The best option is to make ventilation using pipes. For this we need:
What does this mean in terms of energy costs? What happens if the ceiling is covered with ceramic insulating material? To insulate ceilings on a surface of 100 square meters with a layer of ceramic material with a thickness of only 0.5 mm, you need only 76 liters of such material.
It is enough to touch the coated surface and other non-insulated heat-insulating liquid ceramic material to reveal which one is insulated. In this regard, they say hot or cold surfaces, but a surface covered with ceramic thermal insulation material will be perceived as the surface with the closest temperature to the surface of the human body. That is why we suggest you use this material also on floors, on concrete slabs, under floors or carpets placed on the floor.
- necessary tools;
- 2 pipes with a diameter of 10–13 cm;
- device for condensate outflow;
- mesh for the supply pipe;
- hood for hood;
- any insulation.
Works on arrangement of supply and exhaust ventilation: a supply pipe, will serve to supply the basement with clean air. One side of the pipe should stick out at a distance (50–55 cm) above the level of the entire floor.
A layer of ceramic thermal insulation material will increase indoor comfort. The floor will be felt warmer, and the heat in the room will no longer pass into the cold basement or foundation, reflected by insulation with ceramic thermal insulation material.
For floor insulation you need, like for the ceiling, approx. 4 cans of 19 liters of material. In conclusion, to reduce heat loss in a house with a surface of approx. 100 square meters, you need 10 cans of material. If we believe that the work can be done by you, all isolation will not cost more than 820 euros.
And the second, lead through the basement to the top. And placed with a distance (about fifty centimeters) above the ground, and covered with a grill. The exhaust pipe hole is located under the very ceiling, and you need to bring it out through all the structures to the roof.
That piece of pipe, which will remain on the street, insulate. The pipe should be placed (more than half a meter), higher than the roof of the house. It is necessary to cover the hole with a visor so that precipitation in the form of: snow, rain, does not clog into it.
You need to understand that condensate will begin to accumulate in the pipe and begin to flow to the bottom, it is advisable to put a vessel to collect moisture under it. Pipes are used: galvanization, PVC. When mounting to the walls use: specially designed clamps for this.
Air enters through the supply pipe and leaves through the exhaust pipe. The pipes are located on opposite sides of the basement and therefore air movement is guaranteed. It is advisable to install such a system on an area of \u200b\u200bup to 40 square meters. m
If more, it will not be effective. Then build forced ventilation. Everything is the same as with the natural. Only in the middle of the supply pipe are fans inserted.
From the inside - exhaust (exhaust air), and from the outside driving air in. Fans must be turned on at once two simultaneously. To choose the most suitable fan, you need to consider the size of the basement.
And the seller-consultant will always help to choose the required power. Typically, the fan is inserted into the channel of the hole, then fixed.
It will not be difficult to install it because manufacturers simplify the work by producing fans that:
- mounted in tin casings and have corrugated edges.
- equipped with brackets for fixing.
If you are aware of the diameter of your pipe, then choose the right fan size. You can choose: with a timer, it can be configured.
Some are equipped with a humidity sensor, and are connected only when the humidity exceeds the set parameter. All this will save energy.
If the room is small, then it is better to use a more lightweight device.
Its main difference:
- Air is delivered and expelled only with a single device (one pipe). Air flow and exhaust (and a small volume) will provide a single pipe.
When the basement is located above ground level, then an excellent option: air intake with the help of specially designed products with grilles (from rodents). A vent is a small vent or window in a basement wall or foundation.
This scheme is used, if necessary, to dry the basement very quickly. If you install a fan in the supply air duct, the air exchange will accelerate, to the required levels.
If the basement is very damp, then enhanced air injection (with open dampers) will make it possible to dry it very quickly.
If the basement area is large, then it is necessary to mount the fans in two ducts at once - this is more rational.
Automated system
If you want to have constant indicators: temperature, humidity. So, you need to apply climate devices of high quality. And for this, you need to contact the specialists. They will find good equipment and install split systems.
It is needed if you use the basement not for storing supplies, but for recreation. If the device is on certain days, it will have an obstacle to air exchange. Then there is a need for the reconstruction of the exhaust pipe with the assistance of a fan.
The main thing is not to confuse - you can not put the fan on the supply duct. Because, with strong air injection, especially if there is no good exhaust, the air will be blown out through various gaps.
To test the effectiveness of the ventilation system, perhaps as follows:
- Take thin paper and place it on the (ventilation system). If she moves a little, then everything is fine.
- A small tank is lowered into the cellar, with hot coals and is watched. If the ventilation is poor, then:
- humidity;
- heavy odor;
- condensation on the walls;
- mold is not ruled out.
Increase efficiency
- To improve aeration (air exchange), you need to: adjust the valves.
- To increase traction: it is better to increase the exhaust pipe (add).
If this does not help, then you need to: produce combined ventilation. For this, a suitable fan is placed in the exhaust duct. Its power should be no more than 100 watts.
He will blow out stale air, due to which a vacuum will begin to form. And a fresh stream will flow unhindered into the cellar.
A well-mounted ventilation system will help: normalize air exchange. And it will be able to turn your cellar into a room suitable for storing winter supplies, or another functional area: a workshop, gym, sauna, boiler room, etc.
Basement ventilation is required very often. For example, to store food in a garage cellar, a certain level of temperature and humidity must be observed. The basement of a country house can be used as a sauna, billiard room, a place for sports games. In this case, the issue of ventilation is not even discussed. The equipment located in the basement is also forced to take care of the timely ventilation of the room, in particular, heating.
Ventilation systems can be divided into two types. The first type is natural ventilation. In this case, the movement of air flows spontaneously, under the influence of natural forces of nature. Electric appliances are not used, only the difference in temperature, pressure and wind power is used.
The second type of ventilation is forced. Its main element is a fan, with the help of which air movement is carried out. Compulsory ventilation systems equip rooms of a large area and crowded areas.
Cellar ventilation scheme
The simplest option for natural ventilation
The easiest option to ventilate the basement is ventilation, which operates with the help of only air ducts (vents), holes in the foundation or basement of the building.
Important!
It is advisable only to provide for ventilation in advance, even before the construction of the building, whether it be a garage, a country house or a cottage.
Otherwise, you will have to punch holes in the walls, which is quite laborious. The diamond drilling method is suitable for creating neat, beautiful products.
Organization of natural ventilation with the help of ventilation at the initial stage of construction
So that damp, rainy weather does not add moisture to the basement, ventilation should be located at least 30 cm from the ground. The diameter of the holes is selected from the range of 125–225 cm, the larger the basement, the more air should be.
The air in the foundation serves to ensure normal air circulation under the floor.
The air inlets must be covered with grilles from the side of the street. This is done to avoid penetration into the basement of various animals - mice, rats, cats. In addition, vents should be equipped with dampers. They will make it possible to regulate the air flow - to increase it in the summer and reduce (or completely stop) in the winter, when there is a danger of freezing the basement.
Basement with grid
The advantage of this type of ventilation is the minimum financial and labor costs. However, there are more efficient systems based on the use of the laws of nature and not requiring the installation of electrical equipment.
Foundation ventilation is essential for proper ventilation.
Natural ventilation with pipes
A more effective option for natural ventilation is obtained by installing two pipes (ducts) - supply and exhaust.
Basement duct with pipe
They should be located at opposite ends of the basement, thereby providing the most complete ventilation. When installing pipes, you must try to observe the following conditions:
- the supply pipe, its lower end, should be 20–50 cm higher than the floor;
- upper - to protrude above the ground by 0.5–1 m;
- the exhaust pipe should have a length of 2.5–3 m, this will provide the temperature difference necessary for the movement of air flows;
- the upper end of the exhaust pipe should be 40-50 cm higher than the roof or ridge;
- the bottom hole of the exhaust pipe is located as close as possible to the basement ceiling.
An example of a ventilation device in the basement
Advice!
If the exhaust duct is located near the heating elements, this will increase the air draft, thereby improving ventilation.
Warming the top of the exhaust pipe will also contribute to a more intensive movement of air masses.
A useful addition to the supply and exhaust system of natural ventilation is the deflector, due to the use of which the air draft is enhanced. The deflector is installed on the upper edge of the exhaust pipe. Strengthening the thrust will occur with every gust of wind: the wind blows from one side of the deflector, resulting in rarefaction, the area of \u200b\u200blow pressure, on the other side. This stimulates the release of air up the pipe.
Which pipes to use?
Before proceeding with the equipment of the basement with ventilation, you need to draw up a diagram of it. Even a simple sketchy drawing will help to accurately determine the length of the pipes and their exact location.
Basement ventilation scheme in the garage
As for the material of the pipes, metal is often used, but their installation can be too time-consuming, and the inevitable condensate will lead to the appearance of rust over time. PVC pipes are excellent for self-installation. They are light enough so that you can do the installation yourself, they are better sealed and do not rust. In addition, for plastic pipes there are many additional parts that simplify installation, such as various adapters, angles, etc. A special faucet is installed to drain the accumulated condensate.
Simplified options
If the basement is small in volume, the simplified design of the previous ventilation option may be relevant. A single air duct with a partition is made of wood, in which both channels, both supply and exhaust, are located at once. Since the inlet and outlet openings in such a system are close to each other, a small space will be ventilated.
Advice!
To expand the capabilities of this design, it is possible to supplement it, for example, with a gutter that will lead the outlet of the supply channel to another part of the basement.
Simplified basement ventilation system
Another option to simplify the ventilation scheme is to exclude the supply duct. If there is only an exhaust opening, air will enter the basement through slots and leaks. In some cases, this is enough.
Natural ventilation in the basement
Forced ventilation
Even the best option for natural ventilation does not guarantee a steady flow of fresh air into the basement throughout the year. The reason for this is the dependence on weather conditions. Stability can only be ensured by forced ventilation. In many cases, a fan (s) can simply be added to an existing ventilation scheme.
Installation of a ventilation system
For example, an electric fan mounted on the supply duct will significantly improve air exchange when the exhaust duct shutter is open. If this measure is not enough, which happens, for example, in large areas, then you will need to install the fan also on the hood.
Forced ventilation of the basement
Forced hood from the basement
Ventilation Improvements
The forced ventilation circuit is rarely limited to simple fans. Very convenient is a system that analyzes the indicators of humidity and temperature in the room and includes ventilation only if necessary. In this way, a constant “climate” is maintained in the basement with optimal energy consumption. Another common option for automatic ventilation is the periodic inclusion of electric fans. The switching frequency may vary, for example, depending on the time of year.
Basement Ventilation Device
In addition to fans providing timely ventilation of the basement, the system can be supplemented by a heater. As a rule, a heater is used. In winter, the flows of frosty air will be heated, this will make it possible to fully ventilate all year round.
Heat recovery ventilation circuit
They also use air filters or a filter system. If the air coming from the street is often polluted (dust, industrial emissions, etc.), then the air is filtered to avoid indoor pollution. There are also systems with air conditioning and humidifiers, with them hot and dry summers will not spoil the indoor climate.
Compulsory ventilation system with heat recovery
Ventilation of a large basement (over 50 sq. M.), Which is part of a country house, makes sense in conjunction with ventilation of the entire house. That is, the general ventilation system of the house should include a basement ventilation subsystem.
Advice!
Installation and configuration of equipment in this case is best left to specialists.
Supply and exhaust ventilation of a wooden country house
