Vodka taster required. The profession of a vodka taster. The main question is which vodka is the best now

These are the results of their competition ... to be honest, I have hardly heard of such streams ...
The results of the International Competition "Best Vodka 2015" have been summed up
On March 25, 2015, the results of the International Competition "Best Vodka 2015" were summed up, where the medalists are determined during a blind tasting of leading expert tasters from Russia, the Republic of Kazakhstan and the Republic of Belarus.

The tastings were held at the All-Russian Research Institute of Food Biotechnology under the supervision of the Supervisory Board. Traditionally, the observers were representatives of manufacturers and funds mass media... Competitive samples were evaluated according to organoleptic indicators: taste, aroma, color and transparency.

Medals of the Competition are awarded to samples that have received the required number of points and taking into account the price segments of the contestants. The more expensive the price of vodka on the store shelf, the higher the score a sample should score. Products awarded three times with a gold medal are awarded the Grand Prix for consistently high quality.

“Bad vodkas usually do not participate in the Competitions,” noted the Chairman of the Tasting Commission, Academician of the Russian Academy of Sciences, professor, Viktor Antonovich Polyakov. - Therefore, this year, only 30% of samples were left without medals. In general, the quality of the products is very high. "

Products from Russia, Uzbekistan, Poland, the Republic of Kazakhstan, Ukraine and the Republic of Belarus were presented at the Competition "The Best Vodka 2015".

Best Vodka 2015 medalists

Nomination "Discovery of the Year"
LLP "ARLINE" - "HEAVEN ICE" 40% - gold
JSC "Cherepovets Distillery" - "TOMILKA" - silver
LLC "United Penza Vodka Plants" - "Russian Peppers Decor" - gold
JV "Asfar Company LTD" - "Thawed natural" - gold
OOO "TD" Megapolis "- Bitter tincture" Pervak ​​Domashny "- silver

Super premium segment
LLC "Krasnoyarsk Vodochny Zavod" - "Yarich" - silver
CJSC "Wine and Cognac Factory" Rus "-" IMPERIAL TRUST "- gold
JV "Asfar Company LTD" - "Honey with lemon" - gold
LLC "Distillery" Saransky "- Organic vodka" Chistye Rosy "- gold
LLC Distillery "SIBALCO" - "SIBALCO" - GRAND PRIX

Premium segment
CJSC "Tiraspol Wine and Brandy Factory" KVINT "-" Blizzard "- silver
JLLC "Malinovshchiznensky distillery -" Akvadiv "-" Graf "- silver
LLP "BN Winzavod Petropavlovsk" - "Black Diamond" - gold
LLP "BN Winzavod Petropavlovsk" - "Golfstream" - gold
JSC "Gomel distillery" Radamir "-" Radamir "- gold
JSC "Gomel distillery" Radamir "-" Selecta Lux "- gold
JSC "Kokshetau Mineral Waters" - "Haoma WHITE" - GRAND PRIX
JSC Permalko - GRADUS GOLD - gold
JSC Permalko - GRADUS PREMIUM - gold
LLC Distillery "SIBALCO" - "Russian Village" - silver
LLP "ARLINE" - "HEAVEN Classic" 40% - gold
MINSK CRYSTAL OJSC - Radziwill - silver
JV "Asfar Company LTD" - "Pure Sample" - gold

Sub-premium segment
CJSC "Tiraspol Wine and Brandy Factory" KVINT "-" VOLK "- silver
JSC "Gomel distillery" Radamir "-" Evening Gomel "- silver
LLC "Distillery" Saransky "-" Sparkling frost of the Arctic "- gold
LLC "SORDIS" - "SORMOVSKAYA LUX" - gold
LLC "SORDIS" - "SORMOVSKAYA LYRICAL HISTORY" - GRAND PRIX LLC "SORDIS" - "SORMOVSKAYA LADIES 'HAT" - gold
LLC "Tambov Alcohol Company" - "Tambov province" - silver
LLC "TD" Megapolis "-" Morosha level of softness No. 1 "- gold
OJSC "Syktyvkar distillery" - "Polar Ural" - gold
JSC "Brest Distillery" BELALCO "-" Bear Log "- silver
JSC "Brest Distillery" BELALCO "-" MEN'S CLUB "- gold
Federal Product Company LLC - Scandinavia De Luxe - gold

Mid-price segment
JSC "Grodno Distillery" - "Nemanoff Medovaya" - silver
JSC "Grodno distillery" - "Grodno brand" - silver
JSC "Grodno Distillery" - "ZOLOTO FIELD Wheat" - silver
OJSC "Itkulskiy distillery" - "Vecherny Altai" - gold
OJSC "Itkulsky distillery" - "The smell of snow" - gold
OJSC "Itkulsky distillery" - "Sibiryachka" - gold
LLC "Wine and Brandy Factory" Russian "-" Essentuki "- silver
LLC "Wine and Brandy Factory" Russian "-" Afanasoff soft "(AFANASOFF SOFT) - silver
LLC "Distillery" Saransky "-" Winter village on malt alcohol "Alpha" - gold
LLC Distillery "SIBALCO" - "Siberian Prikaz" - gold
JSC "Distillery" Yaroslavsky "-" Tolga "- silver
JSC "Distillery" Yaroslavsky "-" My Yaroslavia "- silver
LLC "Krasnoyarsk Vodochny Zavod" - "Commander Rezanov Lux" - silver

CJSC "Arsenal Vin" - "Match" - gold
Backboard segment
OJSC "Itkulskiy distillery" - "Invigorating" - gold
OJSC "Itkulskiy distillery" - "On gramulka" - gold
LLC "Siberian Vodka Company" - "Spolna" - silver
JSC "Tatspirtprom" - "Graf Ledoff" - gold
LLP "Natur Product" - "Aydabulskaya" Lux "- silver

Special vodkas
OOO "TD" Megapolis "-" Khortitsa ICE "- silver
OOO "Plant Bulbash" - "Bulbash" - silver
OOO "TD" Megapolis "-" Pervak ​​Wheat double distillation "- gold
JSC FAPK "Yakutia" - "Podledka" - gold
JSC "Kokshetau Mineral Waters" - "Haoma" Original "- gold
JSC FAPK "Yakutia" - "Makhtal" - silver
LLC "Tambov Alcohol Company" - "Michurinskaya Lemon" - silver
JSC "Brest Distillery" BELALCO "-" Wild Duck VIP "- gold
OOO "TD" Megapolis "-" Khortitsa Silver Cool "- gold

Distilled spirits
LLC "Ar-Vi-I Trade" - "Village Moonshine Rye" - gold

Tinctures, aperitifs and balms
LLC "United Penza Vodka Plants" - Bitter tincture "Zolotoy Petushok classic" - gold
OJSC "Syktyvkar distillery" - Bitter tincture "Asyad" or "(Asiador) - gold
LLC "SORDIS" Bitter tincture - "THREE OLD MEN CEDAR" - gold
LLC "SORDIS" Bitter tincture - "DON PERCHINO" - GRAND PRIX
LLC "Plant Bulbash" - Bitter tincture "Bulbash. Bison "- silver
JSC "Brest Distillery" BELALCO "- Bitter tincture" Brestskaya Zubrovka "- silver
LLC "SORDIS" - Sweet tincture "SORDIS RYABINA ON COGNAC" - gold
JSC "Cherepovets Distillery" - Sweet tincture "Lesnaya raspberry on cognac" - gold
JSC "Syktyvkar distillery" - Sweet tincture "Currant color" - gold
JSC "Syktyvkar distillery" - Sweet tincture "Honey cloudberry" - gold
JSC FAPK "Yakutia" - "Viva" - gold
JSC FAPK "Yakutia" - "Kaskil" - silver
JSC "Brest Distillery" BELALCO "- Balsam" Master of Herbs "- silver
JSC "Grodno Distillery" - "Queen of Spades" - gold
LLC "Ishim wine and vodka factory" - "Ishim" - gold
JSC "Syktyvkar distillery" - "Olom vyn (Power of life)" - gold

For quality control purposes, I use 25 ml samples. I taste the first sample in its pure form, that is, with a strength of 40 degrees, the second sample I dilute with demineralized water in a 1: 1 ratio, thereby reducing the strength to 20 degrees; then I taste the 20-degree sample again because it is important for me to test how the vodka will behave diluted in cocktails.

How to choose accompaniment

It is better to taste vodka in its pure form. For vodka-based cocktails, paring with light snacks is suitable.

How to rate a drink

The general tasting scheme is the same for both vodka and wine and includes three main phases: visual (“eye”), olfactive (“nose”) and gustatory (“mouth”). In assessing the last phase, three stages should be distinguished: "attack", or the first contact with taste buds; middle - the disclosure of the drink on the taste buds; the final is an assessment of the ongoing aroma and flavor impact.

How to understand that the drink is of high quality

If you're in the mood for a second drink, the vodka is good. But seriously, vodka good quality should not burn the throat and aggressively hit the nose and taste buds. It should have a mild and pleasant taste.

How is the process of tasting vodka different from wine tasting?

The fact is that the texture and strength of these drinks are different. The wine profile depends primarily on the terroir, grapes, fermentation and aging. Vodka is strong alcoholic beverage... For wine, it is important how much of the drink gets to the taste buds of the taster, because the wine opens up under the influence of air, which he additionally inhales.

When tasting vodka, we rarely keep it on our taste buds for a long time, so as not to expose them to excessive thermal influence of alcohol and not "disable them", as this would negatively affect further tasting.

Many are sure that vodka is just alcohol diluted with water in a ratio of 40 to 60. But Marina Mandrish, head of the testing laboratory of the All-Russian Research Institute of Food Biotechnology, knows that this is not so. And you can trust her, because Marina has been working as a vodka taster for 31 years ...

If vodka is just alcohol diluted with water, why do we see such a variety of different vodkas on store shelves? Vodka is not just alcohol and water. Of course, the main ingredients are 40% alcohol and 60% water. But at the same time, there is a whole technology of vodka production. Let's start with water. There is a strict standard for the limiting content in water for vodka of various chemical elements, therefore, the water for vodka undergoes special preparation to bring it into line with the requirements for the ionic composition.

Since each enterprise has its own water, then everyone also has their own water treatment. But as a result, the organoleptic properties of water, that is, taste, also differ.

Representatives of various enterprises come to us, bring their spirits and their own water. And we show at seminars how much the taste of various water-alcohol mixtures differs. That is why, when we hold a competition for the best alcohol of the year, we use distilled water in a water-alcohol mixture. Because undistilled water radically changes the organoleptic characteristics.

Moreover, the taste and aroma of the alcohol used in the production of vodka also differs from one manufacturer to another. Each enterprise has its own alcohol quality standard, which, of course, complies with state standards.

That is, the taste of a specific vodka is made up of the taste of a specific alcohol and a specific water?

Yes, but not only. Because water treatment is only the first stage of the technology. The second stage is the developed formulation, because many additional ingredients are usually added to the water-alcohol mixture. It can be different kinds sugar, there may be aromatic alcohols, infusions. It is the specific recipe that plays a key role for the vodka brand.

The third stage is the purification of the water-alcohol mixture with added ingredients. In professional language, this mixture is called sorting. The classic technology is that the sorting is passed through coal columns.

Purification also significantly affects the organoleptic properties of vodka, because not only purification occurs, but also the formation of various esters, which ennoble the taste and aroma of the water-alcohol mixture. In particular, the taste of vodka is significantly influenced by how long ago the coal in the dispensers was last changed. And only after cleaning we get vodka.

Work table of an employee of the All-Russian Research Institute of Food Biotechnology

There are two types of vodkas - vodka and special vodka, which has a specific aroma and taste of the ingredients introduced according to the recipe. Usually these are aromatic components, as a result of which they turn ordinary vodka, for example, into cranberry, lemon or some other.

Producers of vodka often write on the labels that this vodka is purified with milk, or in some other special way. Is this real technology or just marketing gimmicks?

Real technologies. Moreover, the processing of an alcoholic mixture with milk or, for example, egg whites are ancient methods that were very widely used before. So these are not just marketing gimmicks, this kind of purification really gives the vodka that special flavor. Why are the prices for different brands of vodka so different, and is it true that expensive vodka is fundamentally different from cheap?

The high price tag is partly due to technology, but in many ways, of course, it is a marketing issue. We can say that there are no bad vodkas among premium vodkas, because the competition in this segment is very high. But at the same time, there are vodkas from, as we say, the national segment, which are not inferior to premium brands in their taste properties.

According to experts, 30-40% of the vodka sold in Russia is counterfeit. Is it possible to visually distinguish real from fake vodka? It is very difficult. If only you get your hands on a completely careless fake, in which the label is crookedly glued, the cork is bad - the cork is scrolled. But now this is very rare. We are working very closely with law enforcement agencies to identify counterfeit goods - confiscated counterfeit vodka is brought to us. And as a rule, it is well designed, the labels contain all the information required by the standard. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify a fake by its appearance.

Vodka sales in Russia, mln dal LiveJournal Media, Rosstat. 2016 year

We have developed special scientific methods that allow us to determine whether vodka is made at an enterprise or in artisanal conditions. For this, ionic analysis of water is used. Because if the vodka is made at the enterprise, specially prepared water is used in it, the ionic composition of which corresponds to the technological regulations. If the ionic composition does not comply with the regulations, you can be sure that the vodka is made in artisanal conditions.

There are, however, violations of the composition as a result of problems that the company itself does not know about. Representatives of one of the factories came to us once and brought their vodka to the tasting. It passed the minimum grade for quality, which surprised the manufacturers very much. Then we analyzed the ionic composition, and found a large amount of nitrates in vodka.

The plant technologists urgently examined all their wells, and found one, into which fertilizers from a neighboring field had seeped, which led to an increased content of nitrates. But that was a few years ago, and now almost all plants use the technology for water purification. reverse osmosis, which excludes the ingress of impurities.

What about alcohol? Can you tell the taste that vodka is made from industrial alcohol?

It is possible, because the taste of such vodka is, of course, different. But this is quite difficult to do, especially if the manufacturers have added some aromatic ingredients and made a special vodka - lemon, cranberry, and so on. Therefore, only a chemical analysis can give an exact answer.

As for food alcohol, it is divided into categories - "alpha", "extra", "luxury", "highest purification". Alcohol of each of these categories has its own special aroma and taste, therefore a special tasting rating is applied for vodka made from a certain alcohol.

The highest tasting mark is assigned to vodka made from luxury alcohol - 9.2 points. Then there are vodkas from alcohol "alpha" and "extra" - from 9.0 points. At the same time, alpha alcohol has the lowest methanol content. At present, vodka is practically not produced from alcohol of the highest purity.

Today, in addition to wheat, rye and corn are widely used as raw materials for alcohol. Many businesses are now experimenting with combinations of rye and wheat to produce alcohol. Very good alcohols are also made from corn. They have some nuances to their taste, but you won't feel them in vodka, because the technologists of the enterprises get rid of them. By the way, the Chinese have recently become very interested in the production of vodka and asked us how to make good alcohol from corn.

For a layman, alcohols from different raw materials are practically indistinguishable in taste. But manufacturers of alcoholic beverages know that there is a difference between alcohol and alcohol. At competitions we sometimes come across such an alcohol that is diluted with water - and it is better than any vodka without additional purification. But this is rare, and therefore there are special vodka technologies. How is the tasting procedure going?

Vodka and alcohol are allowed for tasting only after physical and chemical analysis. This is where the safety of the drink is assessed - the methanol content and the nature of the alcohol used are determined. For this, the method of spectral luminescence is used, which allows you to establish which alcohol - food or non-food - was used to produce a given vodka. We can say that our methods make a huge contribution to the struggle of the state for the health of the nation.

Then the strength of alcohol or vodka is determined. According to GOST, the minimum permissible alcohol strength is 96.3 degrees, vodka - 39.8 degrees. If the indicator is lower, alcohol or vodka is rejected by strength and is not allowed for tasting. And only if all indicators correspond to GOST, a tasting commission is convened.

Alcohol strength meter

For tasting, vodka is poured into special glasses, the dimensions of which are determined by the standard. The tasting assessment of vodka consists, firstly, of appearance- that is, transparency and gloss are evaluated: vodka with gloss gets a higher rating. Secondly, the aroma is evaluated - it should be characteristic, without foreign odors. Thirdly - the taste, it should be harmonious, without any foreign flavors.

Bitterness is a big disadvantage of vodka. A vodka that tastes bitter will never get high marks and may even be rejected for taste. Vodka also doesn't have to be harsh. Although there is an unofficial division into female and male vodkas: female vodkas are very soft, they are drunk literally like water, male vodkas are sharper, "to drink and grunt." But in general, vodka, according to the standard, should have a characteristic vodka aroma and mild taste.

Tasting is a very difficult process, therefore, the taster is not allowed to take food less than an hour before it starts. When tasting, it is allowed to eat foods that are odorless and tasteless, which can affect the result: White bread, butter, sometimes boiled sausage, non-aromatic types of cheese, crackers without additives. Necessarily - still water.

Discover the secret - do the vodka tasters swallow or spit it out?

When tasting, a sip of about 10 ml is taken. It needs to be held in the mouth so that the tray rolls over all areas of the tongue. Then you can either swallow or spit it out. And here the tasters are already divided into two categories - someone necessarily spits, someone swallows.

Tasting in progress

But there is a technical point here. As I said, bitterness is an important characteristic of vodka. The receptors located at the very base of the tongue are responsible for recognizing bitterness. That is, it is necessary for the vodka to hit the base of the tongue, but after that it is easier to swallow it than to spit it out.

For normal person the use of vodka is usually associated with some extraordinary event, with a holiday.

Every day we have a holiday.

Who works as vodka tasters? Tasters alcoholic beverages- these are top-class specialists, because they must distinguish between very subtle shades of taste and aroma, which are not characteristic of vodka made from a certain type of alcohol.

Women have been proven to be the best tasters because they have more sensitive receptors. But we have a taster - a man so sensitive that even the aromas of permitted products interfere with his tastings. Women concentrate on a certain sample, and he asks to remove all products. So we put samples for him on a separate table.

Only a person who has a special education and experience in our industry can become a taster of alcoholic beverages. I.e it comes about representatives of enterprises. At our institute, we conduct a seminar for the training of tasters, the graduates of which receive a certificate, which they must confirm every three years.

But before entering the seminar, the candidate undergoes a screening test on diagnostic solutions with different alcohol concentrations. That is, the sensitivity to taste and smell is tested, like hearing is tested in a music school.

The main question is which vodka is the best now?

At the beginning of each year, our institute hosts the "Best Vodka of the Year" and "Best Alcohol of the Year" contests. They are attended not only by Russian manufacturers, but also by enterprises from Kazakhstan, Belarus, Moldova. Tasters also come from different countries... The results of the competitions can be found on our website.

Have you ever wanted to change your profession?

Not. I am happy that life has turned out that way. We employ the best graduates of food institutes who came here to do science. Our institute has existed since 1931 and all manufacturers are in contact with us. We are developing new techniques to help produce the highest quality vodka, while at the same time finding out the causes of problems, such as sedimentation. In my dissertation, I was just dealing with this topic.

We have a wonderful team, wonderful relations. At seminars, I look at representatives of our industry, and I always make sure that they are the most positive and youthful people.

The technologists-tasters are mostly girls. Boys do not hold on with us. Analysis is not a man's work, it is delicate, it requires concentration and painstaking attention: dissolve, stir up, wait. Men need immediate results.

The younger a person is and the earlier he begins to taste and become familiar with drinks, the more likely it is that in the future he will more accurately distinguish between tastes and smells. Of course, you don't need to try very early, but you can smell it. I let my daughter smell interesting shades in wine so that she understands and remembers. True, she is already 14.

Some people have a predisposition for tasting. There are special tests by which this is determined: someone does not feel sour, someone does not feel bitter, someone does not feel anything at all. At special courses where they teach to be tasters (we have no universities, all the girls in the laboratory are chemists or technologists), they immediately check who is not worth spending time on. They put a series of shots with a salty flavor, a series of shots of sweet, sour, all shades of taste and smell. And not a spoonful of salt is put there, but a few grains. And the test result depends on how accurately and on what glass you felt this salt. In the laboratory, we sometimes arrange such demonstrative tests.


Studying the theory from textbooks is a matter of three days: from which glasses to taste, how to sit down, what air temperature should be in the room, what to eat. Full description the process does not take up much space. And they learn taste, smell, aroma all their life. Only when you have been working with alcohol for many years, you begin to distinguish one vodka from another in terms of the level of shades.

About the workflow

We schedule important tastings of new drinks at 11:00 at the latest. You have not only just had breakfast, but you are not yet hungry, no longer sleepy, but not yet tired. At least an hour before the start, you need to give the receptors a rest: you cannot smoke, eat spicy foods, drink coffee and tea. The room should be bright and fresh, ideally daylight, not too bright. You need to sit down, relax and concentrate.

Everything matters - both the comfortable posture and the shape of the glasses. For wine - wine, for cognac - cognac, and for liqueurs, liqueurs and vodka - tulip-shaped, elongated, so that the aromas are concentrated in the glass. ABOUT The optimum temperature for almost any drink during tasting is room temperature. We look at the transparency, inhale the smell, take five milliliters on the tongue so that it hits all the receptors. How to drink vodka? Cold and eat with herring or cucumber, so that it digests well and does not intoxicate. Few would agree, like a taster, to drink warm vodka. And no one will sniff from the stack. With a salvo of it - once and for all.

The cognac needs to be twisted in the glass so that it remains on the walls, you can see its purity, whether there is opal or sediment in it. After we drink or salt the cognac, we smell the thin oily layer remaining in the glass, evaluate its quality and bouquet. It is imperative to write down all the impressions so that they are not interrupted by the next ones and in order to compare with later tastings.

We try to put a maximum of five drink samples in a row. If you need more, we take breaks to refresh the receptors. You can rinse your mouth with water or eat neutral food - sausage, bread, cheese. we Over the years, we have already chosen the ideal receptor freshener - drying. They are neutral in taste and easy to consume. Masters taste up to 20 samples in a row, but this is already the highest class. We objectively assess our capabilities.

About the material

The beverage recipe research engineers are the main suppliers of alcohol for tasting. If they develop something there, they immediately try it. For such a tasting, everyone gathers - first, the youngest girls speak out so that the authority of the authorities does not press. Everyone writes what they feel, because everyone has their own perception. When we understand that the drink is ready, the laboratory recommends it for release.

We definitely try our competitors, and this is what all manufacturers do. You need to understand how we look in the market and what others are doing. We conduct all tastings blindly. We are given five vodkas, and we do not know which one is in which glass. One of my colleagues always unmistakably defines our vodka.

About the taste of alcohol

Alcohol, of course, is not cognac, where you can feel both cigars and coffee. What is the aroma of alcohol? Alcoholic! But all the existing shades, all that one can feel, can be found in alcohol - both sweetness and bitterness, sometimes it smells like rubber (we immediately send it back to the supplier). Fuzziness, for example, is not so scary, we can fix it, but initially it is more correct to work with good alcohol. Nowadays, bad supplies rarely happen, distilleries work well, there are never any problems with the physicochemical composition - both samples with sulfuric acid, and the content of esters and acetaldehydes. By nuances, we select separately alcohols for ordinary vodkas and premium vodkas. Alcohol for premium vodka should be ideally soft and with a slight alcoholic smell. In vodka and alcohol, purity is important. Vodka is not allowed to have a non-vodka flavor.

Our girls at first resist: “What? To taste alcohol? What do you mean! I don't even drink vodka! Let's have something tasty. " But work is work: tasty, not tasty - taste it. The candy factory tastes candy all day long. To each his own. We also sometimes think that chocolate is better.

Daily tests

We are not only engaged in tasting. The tests and chemical analyzes of what is produced in the factory take even longer than the tastings. Our laboratory has modern equipment, mostly foreign, but there are also domestic devices. On the chromograph, we look at the content of volatile impurities, which were previously determined by reagents in flasks. Now a small sample is put into the chromograph with a syringe, and the result is ready - how many fusel oils, how many aldehydes. The densimeter measures the strength. There is also a turbodimeter (not a state device) - on it we measure the transparency of the drink. Although we always look visually: a drink can be formally transparent, but at the same time a piece of something will float there. There are standards for indicators for each device for each drink, above which we do not let them either for production or for sale. Such liquids are unstable, we cannot be responsible for their quality.

In addition, the laboratory controls everything that enters the plant - raw materials and products at all stages of production. If everything is clear with vodka and cognac: you can't walk around in ingredients, then in wine and liqueurs everything is different. We harvest cranberries, currants, mountain ash, cherries, rose hips, oranges and lemons, prepare fruit drinks. Already by the sack, you can determine which batch of berries has arrived.

We check bottles, labels, and even the film that will be used to wrap the bottles later. Further in stages: prepared fruit drink - the laboratory checked, blended the drink - the laboratory checked, poured into containers - the laboratory checked. Premium vodka is tested in every blend. We have special attention to such drinks, but we do not deprive the others either. If the chemist says, “Oh, I don’t like the smell here,” we all run to the line.

The human factor is indestructible, but usually there is no irreparable marriage, we do not pour anything down the drain. Food products - there are no tanks with methyl alcohol and acetone, everything is fixable. Over the years, we have developed technologies on how to correct such errors. There are also egregious violations - they wanted to make cranberry, but made lingonberry liqueur or mixed up the containers and poured cognac instead of fruit drink.

About alcoholism

People inclined to alcoholism cannot work here. This is not checked by us, but by life. And our security is strict: it makes sure that everyone comes and goes home sober.

Drinking and tasting are different things, we don’t drink a whole glass in a day. In the morning I tried five samples of five milliliters, five more during the day. It is not even necessary to swallow here. The girls who come to work by car try not to taste in the afternoon, throw off the rest. But there has not yet been a single case that someone has ppm in their blood found at the wheel.

Although, as soon as someone finds out where I am and who I work, they immediately say: “Oh! Yes, you have such corporate parties there, probably! " I’ll say more: when we celebrate birthdays, we bring juice and clink glasses with it. Drinking in the workplace is nonsense and unacceptable.

After hours

At a party it is indecent to say that there is no vodka. I have not had cases when I did not like something very much, but the girls told how they once ordered and ordered one vodka in a restaurant with their friends, and when the waiters thought that the guests had reached the standard, they were brought cheap instead of expensive. Of course, even in this state, it was not possible to conduct the taster!

Of course, my family listens to my advice on alcohol. Although I like wine more than vodka. I drink our vodka, but wine is incomparable, this is creativity that nature has created - that we will see, both in aroma and taste. This is a separate topic for tasting. Sommeliers are taught to recognize all shades of wine: by years, and along the banks, and by sunny days in a bottle. We don't need such specific knowledge, but it's very interesting.

Illustrations: Sasha Pokhvalin

Many are sure that vodka is just alcohol diluted with water in a ratio of 40 to 60. But Marina Mandrish, head of the testing laboratory of the All-Russian Research Institute of Food Biotechnology, knows that this is not so. And you can trust her, because Marina has been working as a vodka taster for 31 years ...

If vodka is just alcohol diluted with water, why do we see such a variety of different vodkas on store shelves?

Vodka is not just alcohol and water. Of course, the main ingredients are 40% alcohol and 60% water. But at the same time, there is a whole technology of vodka production. Let's start with water. There is a strict standard for the limiting content of various chemical elements in water for vodka, so water for vodka undergoes special training to bring it into compliance with the requirements for ionic composition.

Since each enterprise has its own water, then everyone also has their own water treatment. But as a result, the organoleptic properties of water, that is, taste, also differ.

Representatives of various enterprises come to us, bring their spirits and their own water. And we show at seminars how much the taste of various water-alcohol mixtures differs. That is why, when we hold a competition for the best alcohol of the year, we use distilled water in a water-alcohol mixture. Because undistilled water radically changes the organoleptic characteristics.

Moreover, the taste and aroma of the alcohol used in the production of vodka also differs from one manufacturer to another. Each enterprise has its own alcohol quality standard, which, of course, complies with state standards.

That is, the taste of a specific vodka is made up of the taste of a specific alcohol and a specific water?

Yes, but not only. Because water treatment is only the first stage of the technology. The second stage is the developed formulation, because many additional ingredients are usually added to the water-alcohol mixture. It can be various types of sugar, aromatic alcohols, infusions. It is the specific recipe that plays a key role for the vodka brand.

The third stage is the purification of the water-alcohol mixture with added ingredients. In professional language, this mixture is called sorting. The classic technology is that the sorting is passed through coal columns.

Purification also significantly affects the organoleptic properties of vodka, because not only purification occurs, but also the formation of various esters, which ennoble the taste and aroma of the water-alcohol mixture. In particular, the taste of vodka is significantly influenced by how long ago the coal in the dispensers was last changed. And only after cleaning we get vodka.

Work table of an employee of the All-Russian Research Institute of Food Biotechnology

There are two types of vodkas - vodka and special vodka, which has a specific aroma and taste of the ingredients introduced according to the recipe. Usually these are aromatic components, as a result of which they turn ordinary vodka, for example, into cranberry, lemon or some other.

Producers of vodka often write on the labels that this vodka is purified with milk, or in some other special way. Is this real technology or just marketing gimmicks?

Real technologies. Moreover, the processing of an alcoholic mixture with milk or, for example, egg whites are ancient methods that were very widely used before. So these are not just marketing gimmicks, this kind of purification really gives the vodka that special flavor.

Why are the prices for different brands of vodka so different, and is it true that expensive vodka is fundamentally different from cheap?

The high price tag is partly due to technology, but in many ways, of course, it is a marketing issue. We can say that there are no bad vodkas among premium vodkas, because the competition in this segment is very high. But at the same time, there are vodkas from, as we say, the national segment, which are not inferior to premium brands in their taste properties.

According to experts, 30-40% of the vodka sold in Russia is counterfeit. Is it possible to visually distinguish real from fake vodka?

It is very difficult. If only you get your hands on a completely careless fake, in which the label is crookedly glued, the cork is bad - the cork is scrolled. But now this is very rare. We are working very closely with law enforcement agencies to identify counterfeit goods - confiscated counterfeit vodka is brought to us. And as a rule, it is well designed, the labels contain all the information required by the standard. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify a fake by its appearance.

Vodka sales in Russia, mln dal LiveJournal Media, Rosstat. 2016 year

We have developed special scientific methods that allow us to determine whether vodka is made at an enterprise or in artisanal conditions. For this, ionic analysis of water is used. Because if the vodka is made at the enterprise, specially prepared water is used in it, the ionic composition of which corresponds to the technological regulations. If the ionic composition does not comply with the regulations, you can be sure that the vodka is made in artisanal conditions.

There are, however, violations of the composition as a result of problems that the company itself does not know about. Representatives of one of the factories came to us once and brought their vodka to the tasting. It passed the minimum grade for quality, which surprised the manufacturers very much. Then we analyzed the ionic composition, and found a large amount of nitrates in vodka.

The plant technologists urgently examined all their wells, and found one, into which fertilizers from a neighboring field had seeped, which led to an increased content of nitrates. But that was a few years ago, and now almost all plants use reverse osmosis technology for water purification, which eliminates the ingress of impurities.

What about alcohol? Can you tell the taste that vodka is made from industrial alcohol?

It is possible, because the taste of such vodka is, of course, different. But this is quite difficult to do, especially if the manufacturers have added some aromatic ingredients and made a special vodka - lemon, cranberry, and so on. Therefore, only a chemical analysis can give an exact answer.

As for food alcohol, it is divided into categories - "alpha", "extra", "luxury", "highest purification". Alcohol of each of these categories has its own special aroma and taste, therefore a special tasting rating is applied for vodka made from a certain alcohol.

The highest tasting mark is assigned to vodka made from luxury alcohol - 9.2 points. Then there are vodkas from alcohol "alpha" and "extra" - from 9.0 points. At the same time, alpha alcohol has the lowest methanol content. At present, vodka is practically not produced from alcohol of the highest purity.

Today, in addition to wheat, rye and corn are widely used as raw materials for alcohol. Many businesses are now experimenting with combinations of rye and wheat to produce alcohol. Very good alcohols are also made from corn. They have some nuances to their taste, but you won't feel them in vodka, because the technologists of the enterprises get rid of them. By the way, the Chinese have recently become very interested in the production of vodka and asked us how to make good alcohol from corn.

For a layman, alcohols from different raw materials are practically indistinguishable in taste. But manufacturers of alcoholic beverages know that there is a difference between alcohol and alcohol. At competitions we sometimes come across such an alcohol that is diluted with water - and it is better than any vodka without additional purification. But this is rare, and therefore there are special vodka technologies.

How is the tasting procedure going?

Vodka and alcohol are allowed for tasting only after physical and chemical analysis. This is where the safety of the drink is assessed - the methanol content and the nature of the alcohol used are determined. For this, the method of spectral luminescence is used, which allows you to establish which alcohol - food or non-food - was used to produce a given vodka. We can say that our methods make a huge contribution to the struggle of the state for the health of the nation.

Then the strength of alcohol or vodka is determined. According to GOST, the minimum permissible alcohol strength is 96.3 degrees, vodka - 39.8 degrees. If the indicator is lower, alcohol or vodka is rejected by strength and is not allowed for tasting. And only if all indicators correspond to GOST, a tasting commission is convened.

Alcohol strength meter

For tasting, vodka is poured into special glasses, the dimensions of which are determined by the standard. The tasting assessment of vodka is, first, the appearance - that is, the transparency and shine are assessed: vodka with shine gets a higher rating. Secondly, the aroma is evaluated - it should be characteristic, without foreign odors. Thirdly - the taste, it should be harmonious, without any foreign flavors.

Bitterness is a big disadvantage of vodka. A vodka that tastes bitter will never get high marks and may even be rejected for taste. Vodka also doesn't have to be harsh. Although there is an unofficial division into female and male vodkas: female vodkas are very soft, they are drunk literally like water, male vodkas are sharper, "to drink and grunt." But in general, vodka, according to the standard, should have a characteristic vodka aroma and mild taste.

Tasting is a very difficult process, therefore, the taster is not allowed to take food less than an hour before it starts. When tasting, it is allowed to eat products that do not have a smell and taste that can affect the result: white bread, butter, sometimes boiled sausage, non-aromatic cheese varieties, crackers without additives. Necessarily - still water.

Discover the secret - do the vodka tasters swallow or spit it out?

When tasting, a sip of about 10 ml is taken. It needs to be held in the mouth so that the tray rolls over all areas of the tongue. Then you can either swallow or spit it out. And here the tasters are already divided into two categories - someone necessarily spits, someone swallows.

Tasting in progress

But there is a technical point here. As I said, bitterness is an important characteristic of vodka. The receptors located at the very base of the tongue are responsible for recognizing bitterness. That is, it is necessary for the vodka to hit the base of the tongue, but after that it is easier to swallow it than to spit it out.

For a normal person, the use of vodka is usually associated with some extraordinary event, with a holiday.

Every day we have a holiday.

Who works as vodka tasters?

Tasters of alcoholic products are top-class specialists, because they must distinguish very subtle shades of taste and aroma, which are not characteristic of vodka made from a certain type of alcohol.

Women have been proven to be the best tasters because they have more sensitive receptors. But we have a taster - a man so sensitive that even the aromas of permitted products interfere with his tastings. Women concentrate on a certain sample, and he asks to remove all products. So we put samples for him on a separate table.

Only a person who has a special education and experience in our industry can become a taster of alcoholic beverages. That is, we are talking about representatives of enterprises. At our institute, we conduct a seminar for the training of tasters, the graduates of which receive a certificate, which they must confirm every three years.

But before entering the seminar, the candidate undergoes a screening test on diagnostic solutions with different alcohol concentrations. That is, the sensitivity to taste and smell is tested, like hearing is tested in a music school.

The main question is which vodka is the best now?

At the beginning of each year, our institute hosts the "Best Vodka of the Year" and "Best Alcohol of the Year" contests. They are attended not only by Russian manufacturers, but also by enterprises from Kazakhstan, Belarus, Moldova. Tasters also come from different countries. The results of the competitions can be found on our website.

Have you ever wanted to change your profession?

Not. I am happy that life has turned out that way. We employ the best graduates of food institutes who came here to do science. Our institute has existed since 1931 and all manufacturers are in contact with us. We are developing new techniques to help produce the highest quality vodka, while at the same time finding out the causes of problems, such as sedimentation. In my dissertation, I was just dealing with this topic.

We have a wonderful team, wonderful relations. At seminars, I look at representatives of our industry, and I always make sure that they are the most positive and youthful people.



 
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