home > Pumps > Easter cactus: home care. Is there something missing or should it be? Easter cactus home care

Easter cactus: home care. Is there something missing or should it be? Easter cactus home care

Cacti are extremely popular home-grown plants. They are very beautiful, especially during the flowering period. In nature, there are more than three thousand species. Their difference lies in the shape, size of the stems, the structure of flowers, the presence of thorns or hairs. In the tropical forests of Central and South America forest cacti grow. Their appearance is completely different from their thorny fellows from the desert. These plants have leafy, hanging stems.

Epiphyllums.
Ripsalis.
Rhipsalidopsis.
Schlum berger.

In the modern classification, there are no clear distinctions and it is often possible to find the same plant in different genera. And in various publications, there is practically no division at all and all the names can be seen alternately. We are interested in Ripsalidopsis, so let's try to get to the bottom of the truth. Previously, experts attributed them to seven genera, but most often they called them so or epiphilopsis.

To date, all Ripsalidopsis or Easter cacti belong to the genus Gatiora.

Description

The country of origin of these plants is Brazil. They grow in hot and humid conditions, they can be seen on stumps, in hollows, in heaps of humus from foliage. Rhipsalidopsis thrive in the shade of tall trees and will suffer in direct sunlight. They do not have thick skin and thorns like other cacti. This is not necessary, because there is no need to condense vapors from the air, where there is constant humidity.

Ripsalidopsis stems adapted to absorb moisture from the air, for this a large number of air roots develop on them. They are at any time able to turn into a root system, only in contact with the nutrient medium.

If the air is saturated with moisture and there is no direct sunlight, this Easter cactus can thrive at home at temperatures ranging from 17 to 20 degrees in summer and 15 to 17 degrees in winter. Because its fleshy stems are well adapted to store nutrients and moisture.

Under favorable conditions, Ripsalidopsis form flowers at the ends of the shoots. Their color is not very diverse, but always bright and juicy. Flowers come in white, pink and red with different shades. Blooming in early spring, the plants delight with their beauty for about two months.

Types and varieties

There are few types and varieties of Ripsalidopsis. V natural conditions the most common is Ripsalidopsis of the Partner with bright orange flowers. The pink species was named for its flowering color, the hybrid Ripsalidopsis has lilac-pink flowers and a bright yellow center of stamens.

Varietal Ripsalidopsis are distinguished by a more refined beauty of flowers.

Since the flowering of Ripsalidopsis begins on Easter, it is called the Easter cactus. But many confuse him with Schlumberger, who are called the Decembrists, and in vain are waiting for flowering in December. These plants are similar, but the shape of the stem is slightly different.

The leaf-shaped segments of Ripsalidopsis, the photo of which you see below, are more rounded, their shape has almost no protrusions, however, spines at the tips, more reminiscent of thick bristles, are preserved.

Schlumbergers have sharp denticles on the edges instead of bristles. The sizes of the segments in both are the same, a maximum of 3 cm in width and 6 cm in length. The Easter cactus, like the Decembrist, grows by the formation of segments, which are formed at the ends of the shoots and lean towards the ground.

Rhipsalidopsis can be distinguished from Schlumberger and the shape of the flowers. Rhipsalidopsis produce flowers symmetrical with an even corolla, and in its relative the corollas are noticeably beveled. Also, the pink variety of Ripsalidopsis blooms, exuding aroma.

Rhipsalidopsis: care

Since in the natural environment, plants develop at high air humidity, then home conditions should be created as close as possible to natural ones. Forest cacti have delicate and underdeveloped roots, so they do not need soil rich in trace elements and abundant moisture in the pot, this will have a detrimental effect.

Soil and planting

A forest cactus needs a loose coarse substrate consisting of coarse sand, dust-free crushed stone, dust-free crushed brick, clay-sod soil with lumps without grass and roots, charcoal. Before use, the mixture is steamed in the oven, add 3-4 liters each one teaspoon of superphosphate and crushed chalk or slaked lime. The soil should have a slightly acidic reaction, its indicator is from 6 to 4.5. The prepared superphosphate will acidify the soil.

Indoor Ripsalidopsis need care with an annual transplant after flowering. This occurs at the end of May, beginning of June... It should be borne in mind that the root system of the plant is small and it is demanding on air, therefore, the bowl must be selected shallow and small. The old soil should be carefully removed from the roots with a brush, they are thoroughly cleaned, while damage and breakage are not allowed.

The root system should be assessed for development. If they are full of health, then the volume of the pot can be increased by 1.5 times. A smaller size is taken in case of underdevelopment. During planting, the roots of the plant are evenly spread over the pot and carefully sprinkled with earth over and over again.

You can do this: first, deepen the stem, then raise it and fill it up, tamping the substrate by tapping on the walls of the container.

Then the soil is easily compacted by hand... Make sure that the green part of the plant remains uncovered, otherwise it will rot. After that, the forest cactus is watered and placed outside the sun.

Watering

During the flowering period, Ripsalidopsis needs abundant watering, but without stagnant water in the pot. Water can be poured directly onto the stems, excluding the flower area. They also love when grooming involves frequent spraying and washing with warm water before budding.

The plant needs watering all year round, but it is cut back from October to February, as does the fertilization, since this is the dormant time. From February to March - the time for bud development - proper care is resumed by increasing watering. Supply the plant once or twice a month root and foliar dressing... Adhering to the instructions, use humus and nitrogen-containing ready-made mixtures for forest cacti.

Important! Organic fertilizers cannot be used to feed these plants.

If the care is organized correctly, then wait for flowering in April-May. If there are a lot of branches on the bush, then a sufficient number of flowers are formed. During the flowering period, the tropical cactus is also protected from the sun and fed. Tell all family members that the pot with this plant cannot be rearranged and moved during the flowering period, it is even undesirable to turn it, as it can throw off all the buds. During the dormant period, a tropical cactus needs a temperature of 15-17 degrees to lay buds, as soon as the plant is going to bloom, the temperature is raised to 18-20 degrees.

Reproduction

As soon as the ripsalidopsis fades, it can be propagated and transplanted as it enters the growth band. Reproduction is very simple: you just need to wrap the segment around its own axis and it will easily break off. Then it should be dried for 3 days, and then put upright, leaning against a stick, without digging into the moistened soil.

After a while, roots will appear, after which the stalk is deepened into the ground. If the care is done correctly, several flowers can be expected already next spring.

The plant is susceptible to pests and diseases. The symptoms of undesirable conditions can be abscission and drying of the segments. Inspection begins from the top, if rusty deposits and stripes are detected, then ticks can start... They are fought with hot water or 70% alcohol. It is enough to process the segments with one of the means. Nothing will happen to the plant, but get rid of the ticks.

Rhipsalidopsis can wither and lose a large number of segments due to poor roots. Suppression of the root system occurs in cases:

Stagnation of water and excess moisture.
Depleted soil.
Root burns with poorly diluted dressings. They are used only after watering.
Appearance of worms in the soil - white worms.

With such symptoms, the plant should be removed from the pot and the roots and soil should be examined. Diseased roots are removed, and healthy ones should be doused. hot water, so that the hand could endure a little, remove the remnants of the earth in a solution of manganese of a dark crimson color, dry it and plant it in a new substrate. To reduce the stress on the roots of the upper part of the plant can be shortened slightly with scissors.

Segments can fall off from lack of air humidity, from stress caused by frequent rearrangement of the pot, if the plant feels cold.

After purchasing Ripsalidopsis, the plant at home can shed all the buds due to stress. Do not be upset about this, because next year, by Easter, with good care, it will present a whole fireworks display of bright and delicate flowers.

Rhipsalidopsis - Easter cactus

For a long time, I believed that a Decembrist or zygocactus, if you call it scientifically, lives on my windowsill. A friend gave me a plant, she also introduced me to the basics of care. To be honest, there was no serious trouble with him. But then December came, and my flower, apparently not looking at the calendar, stood without a single bud. I attributed his "refusal" to my own mistakes in leaving. But around the middle of March, the Decembrist suddenly acquired buds, and later cute pink flowers resembling bells. I decided that I got the "wrong" plant. She complained to her colleagues about the oddities. More experienced lovers of cacti enlightened me: my flower is a close relative of the Decembrist, his name is long and complex, almost like the Egyptian pharaoh - Ripsalidopsis. And the people called it "Easter cactus", because the buds bloom in early spring, just in time for this holiday. Caring for him at home is simple, and the flowering plant looks very impressive (you can see this by looking at the photo).

Rhipsalidopsis is an Easter cactus, not a Decembrist

The homeland of most forest cacti, including Ripsalidopsis, is the South American tropics. In a humid and warm jungle, they feel great, living on tree trunks, stumps, in hollows - wherever a little old foliage and a little soil have accumulated.

Rhipsalidopsis is an epiphyte, it is able to absorb moisture from the atmosphere using aerial roots. For climbing plants, the presence of leaves is a luxury, so they atrophied, turning into thin bristles, Ripsalidopsis consists only of stems. They, in turn, are divided into flat segments or segments. By the way, their shape is one of the hallmarks of Ripsalidopsis.

The shade of the petals of the Easter cactus is very delicate.

How to distinguish Ripsalidopsis from Zygocactus (Decembrist)? At first glance, these plants look similar, like twins. They are relatives indeed. But there are some signs by which even a non-professional botanist can accurately identify them.

Table: differences between Ripsalidopsis and the Decembrist

Ripsalidopsis flowers look like stars

The ancestor of domesticated Ripsalidopsis is accustomed to above-average humidity and rather poor lighting in the jungle. It has grown aerial roots in order to cling more firmly to the tree on which it has settled, and to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Due to their presence, the cuttings of the plant take root very quickly. To survive during a drought, Ripsalidopsis has acquired thick, intensively branching stems that serve as a container for moisture and nutrients.

Ripsalidopsis shoots are a chain of flattened fleshy segments, about 3 cm wide and 4-6 cm long. The color of the stem is usually light green, but turns reddish with an excess of bright light. Inflorescences appear at the ends of the shoots. The more magnificent the "crown" of Ripsalidopsis, the more buds are formed. The color of flowers in nature is limited to different shades of pink and red. Then the plant bears fruits - scarlet pentahedral berries, they contain seeds.

Modern scientists have recently made new changes to the taxonomy. According to the latest classification, the genus Rhipsalidopsis has been abolished. The species that were included in it are assigned to the genus Hatiora and are considered a subspecies of Rhipsalidopsis. Therefore, now in stores, ripsalidopsis is sometimes called in a new way - hatiora.

Photo gallery: options for placing ripsalidopsis in the house

Easter cactus looks spectacular in a flower-basket A compact variety of Easter cactus looks good on a windowsill A large ripsalidopsis bush can be placed directly on the floor Ripsalidopsis bush is a decoration of a flower arrangement

Easter cacti have been grown for more than a decade as indoor plants... Their popularity is due to the ease of care, exotic appearance, duration of flowering. Rhipsalidopsis can be grown as an ampelous plant, placed in a hanging planter or on a high stand. Then the arched shoots will droop picturesquely. Another option is to simply place the Easter cactus on the windowsill; compact varieties are suitable for this.

White to orange: popular varieties

Now breeders have created many varieties of Ripsalidopsis with a wide variety of flower colors. They can be pink, burgundy, red, purple, orange and even white, which you will never find in nature. Some hybrids are generally variegated. The most common varieties of Easter cactus are:

Rhipsalidopsis Gartner. Small bush, up to 20 cm in height, with drooping, highly branched stems. Segments with wavy margins and small setae slightly pubescent. It is convenient to grow it as an ampelous plant. The flowers were originally red. Now many varieties of Gartner's Ripsalidopsis have been bred with a different color. Variety Nina - purple buds and flowers; Eliza - burgundy buds, flowers - deep red; King's Dream - neon pink flowers with a pink-orange border; Sirius and White Magic - snow-white inflorescences.
Rhipsalidopsis pink. Plant with stems about 30 cm, segments with toothed, 4–5 cm long. Flowers are star-shaped, pink, with a bright yellow center and fragrant. Miniature bush.
Rhipsalidopsis Andromeda. Large (5–6 cm in diameter), claret-pink flowers, orange in the center. They hold on for a long time.
Rhipsalidopsis Auriga. He is often mistaken for a Decembrist. It has long drooping stems with short segments. The flowers are large, red-orange.
Rhipsalidopsis Phoenix. It can be easily recognized by the flowers. They are large, pale pink with an orange core, and are star-shaped. It blooms very luxuriantly and for a long time. Shoots are short.

Home-grown Rhipsalidopsis - photo

Rhipsalidopsis Andromeda - the flowers shimmer in different shades of pink and lilac, like a sunset in the tropics Rhipsalidopsis Auriga stands out with a shade of petals, the flowers are like flames Rhipsalidopsis King's Dream - one of the most popular breeding hybrids Rhipsalidopsis Gartnerakis is the basis for the majority of sellers of selves Rhipsalidopsis Phoenix is distinguished by the size of flowers and the duration of flowering Rhipsalidopsis White magic - very pure, snow-white tone of petals Rhipsalidopsis flowers Sirius really look like stars Rhipsalidopsis Scarborough - unusual golden-orange flowers

How to create optimal conditions for a plant at different times of the year

Rhipsalidopsis is a cactus, but a forest one. It does well in humid and warm climates. But the plant is undemanding to lighting. Unlike distant relatives, desert cacti, Ripsalidopsis in nature lives in partial shade under the canopy, which is formed by intertwining tree branches.

Table: optimal conditions for growing Ripsalidopsis

From late September to early February (dormant period).	Temperature: no higher than 15–17 ° C. Lighting: bright, diffused. It is best to avoid direct sun. Windows are suitable from the east or west side. Can be placed on the north. Humidity: high. Spray the plant. Avoid drying out and waterlogging of the earthy coma.
Second half of February - mid-March (preparation for flowering).	Before the beginning of bud formation: the temperature is cool, watering is poor. With the appearance of buds: increase the temperature, increase the watering. Do not disturb the plant: you cannot move or even turn the pot so that the buds do not die.
End of March, April, May (flowering time).	Temperature: 18-22 ° C. Watering: plentiful, as the soil dries, only with soft, rain or melt water.
June, July, August, first half of September (active growing season).	Location: Take the plant out into the garden, terrace, or balcony. Shade from direct sun. Watering: moderate, after the soil has dried. Humidity: the higher the better. Spray the plant. Temperature: 17–20 ° C, gradually reduce. Protect from drafts and temperature changes. Watering: Moderate, cut back in October.

Rhipsalidopsis blooms luxuriantly if it has time to build up a green mass. And for this you need light. In autumn and winter (until February), periodically rotate the pot so that the "crown" is relatively symmetrical. When it's time to set the buds, stop moving the ripsalidopsis so that it doesn't get stressed and shed future flowers.

Video: how to create the right microclimate for a flower

Transplant and preparation for it

Once you've got Ripsalidopsis, give it some attention. It is worth starting with a plant transplant. This requires a new pot, wide and low, with large holes for water drainage. The roots of the epiphyte cactus do not take up much space, and they need a constant flow of air. The land in which the plants in the store are kept is worthless. Prepare a new substrate. Rhipsalidopsis prefers slightly acidic, not very fertile, rough and crumbly soil:

special soil for growing succulents and cacti;
sheet, sod land, sand, charcoal or broken brick, coconut fiber (4: 4: 2: 1);
clay-sod land, charcoal, small brick chips (5: 1: 1);
leafy soil, peat, perlite, chopped sphagnum moss (3: 2: 2: 1).

Drainage is required in any case. Disinfect the soil before planting the plant. If you made the mixture yourself, increase its acidity. For 3-4 liters of soil, add a teaspoon of crushed chalk and superphosphate.

The soil in which Ripsalidopsis grew in the store is absolutely not suitable for the development of the plant.

Young Ripsalidopsis requires a transplant every year, this should be done after flowering, in May. Cacti older than four years old are less disturbed, about once every three years. Large specimens in one pot can live up to five years.

When choosing a container for a transplant, give preference not to a deeper, but to a wider new pot. If the roots of Ripsalidopsis have grown significantly, then approximately double its volume.

Pour drainage on the bottom of the new pot - expanded clay or broken brick. Above - a little prepared substrate.
Gently remove the hrypsalidopsis from the pot, shake off the soil (but do not rinse).
Transfer the plant to a new container, distribute the roots and sprinkle with fresh substrate. Remember: Ripsalidopsis has a superficial root system; it does not need to be deeply buried.
Slightly compact the ground with your hands. Do not overdo it, the cactus loves loose soil at the roots.
After transplanting, water the plant, provide it with high humidity, especially carefully protect it from direct sun for 7-10 days.

Leaving for pleasure

Caring for Ripsalidopsis is a pleasure. The plant is picky. The only thing that it cannot do without is a rather high air humidity, which must be maintained almost all year round. We will tell you about this and other secrets of care.

How to ensure high humidity?

It is not so difficult to fulfill the main condition imposed on the microclimate by Ripsalidopsis. Here are some ways to arrange mini-tropics in a separate corner of the apartment:

Place a pot of Easter cactus in your kitchen or bathroom, if the latter has a window. The air in these rooms is already humid. And move away from radiators and other heating devices.
Spray the plant often with warm water. The best option is a fine spray that creates a suspension in the air.
Place Ripsalidopsis next to other flowers with the same need. For example, a great neighbor is Asplenium. Then it will be more convenient to carry out water procedures, and the humidity will remain longer.
Fill the pallet with a pot of cactus, wet pebbles, expanded clay, or sphagnum moss. Water the contents as it dries.
Place the pot in a waterproof container filled with peat or sphagnum moss. Moisten the substrate regularly.
Place a fountain, aquarium, or humidifier next to the plant.

Rhipsalidopsis loves moist and fresh air

Do not be afraid of waterlogging. Firstly, it will not affect the general atmosphere in the apartment in any way. Secondly, it is even useful, especially in winter. After all, you spend a lot of money on moisturizers for your skin. So take advantage of the tropics you create for your forest cactus. Blossom with him in the spring!

Do not spare water in summer

Rhipsalidopsis is watered unevenly throughout the year. The changing needs are related to the life cycle of the plant.

During flowering, the Easter cactus requires abundant watering. The soil should not dry out. Both the substrate and the stems are moistened with warm water, but they do not pour it on the flowers, otherwise they will quickly die. Prevent moisture stagnation by draining excess from the pallet.

After the end of flowering, the plant begins to intensively build up its green mass, and abundant watering is also required. Your Ripsalidopsis motto is: a lot of moisture, but no overflow.

The closer the dormant period, the less water the Easter cactus needs. From the end of September to the second half of February, the soil in the pot is moistened only slightly. But the earthen lump should not be overdried either.

Water for Ripsalidopsis should be warm and soft. Boiled, filtered or settled water will do. Ideally, rain or melt.

During the active growing season, Ripsalidopsis must be supported by mineral dressings. Natural organic matter does not suit him. Apply a pre-made liquid cactus fertilizer with a reduced nitrogen content. Its excess provokes root decay.

Add the top dressing to your irrigation water every two weeks. On the eve of the rest period, food is reduced. Do not fertilize the ripsalidopsis in winter.

When the Easter cactus begins to "wake up" (around the end of February), apply the first foliar dressing by adding fertilizer to the spray water.

Ripsalidopsis bouquet for Easter - we provide flowering

Rhipsalidopsis is not grown for the sake of greenery. The owner wants to receive a lush bouquet of flowers from this cactus for the Easter holiday. I must say, even on the eve of flowering, the plant looks beautiful. The buds give it a very attractive look. And when it is in full swing, a nondescript cactus in winter wonderfully transforms beyond recognition. Flowers, on average, about 4 cm in size, are located at the ends of the stems. Each areola gives from one to three buds, and sometimes, if the ripsalidopsis is well rested, and 7–8.

Rhipsalidopsis blooms in spring - just when, after a long winter, you want bright colors

In nature, flowers do not differ in a variety of shades: from pink to dark red. Breeders bred cacti with purple, orange and white petals. But this is quite enough. Ripsalidopsis flowers are very bright, they seem to glow from the inside.

The plant blooms for about two months. At this time, he should not be disturbed, the buds will fall off. Then the fruit can form - a soft berry with seeds. It is difficult to grow it at home. To do this, you have to take on the role of a bee. Moreover, the pollen must be borrowed from another plant. It turns out that in order to "harvest" the fruit, you need at least two Ripsalidopsis.

Proper care is the key to lush flowering and the absence of diseases in the plant

Not everyone succeeds in achieving abundant flowering from Ripsalidopsis. One of the main reasons for the lack of buds is that the plant has not accumulated strength. In the summer months, the cactus did not breathe enough fresh air, did not receive enough nutrients and water. This means that he did not grow new stems. In winter, when the plant had to rest before flowering, you did not create the necessary conditions for it.

And it happens that the Ripsalidopsis has already formed the buds, and you decided to change the location of the pot or simply turned it the other side to the window. And the flowers stopped developing, dried up and fell off. When communicating with forest cacti, observe the main rule: do not make sudden movements, do not fuss around the pot during bud formation.

Hibernation

Hibernation time for Ripsalidopsis starts early. Around October, the flower gradually goes to rest. And he should "doze off" until early February. But how safe the sleep of an Easter cactus is, depends on its owner. The plant needs a low temperature, about 15–17 ° C. It is necessary to exclude top dressing, water sparingly. Air humidity should be at 60%.

High-quality hibernation is a prerequisite for the formation of buds and flowering of Ripsalidopsis. At the end of winter, "wake up" the cactus, gradually increasing the air temperature, watering, feeding.

Typical florist mistakes

No florist, especially a beginner, is immune to mistakes. Improper care negatively affects the decorative effect of the plant. But the flower, by its appearance, clearly signals what exactly does not suit it. You just need to learn to decipher the signs given to them.

Table: mistakes in caring for ripsalidopsis

Problem	Cause	Elimination
Discards stem segments, buds and flowers.	Waterlogged soil, too dry air or cold drafts.	If the potted medium looks like a swamp, reduce watering. Humidify dry air using all available methods. Cover the plant with a draft shield.
Does not bloom.	Nutritional deficiency during the growing season and / or non-compliance with the conditions during the dormant period.	Follow the rules for caring for the plant. Provide nourishment during active growth and coolness during rest periods.
The stems turn pale. On the segment plates, there are yellow-brown burn marks.	The sunlight is too bright.	Move the Ripsalidopsis away from the window, shade the plant in summer.
Stem segments wither, become soft, die off.	Perhaps the root system is rotted. This occurs at low air temperatures combined with a lack of light and waterlogging.	Examine the roots of the plant. Remove the damaged ones, treat the healthy ones with a solution of potassium permanganate. Transplant into a new substrate. Provide bright but diffused light, adjust watering.

Deterioration in the appearance of Ripsalidopsis is an unambiguous hint of individual florist errors

Often diseases and pests affecting the plant

The fleshy stems of Ripsalidopsis are an attractive breeding ground for insect pests and pathogenic fungi. Easter cactus can be attacked by spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and fusarium and late blight can attack.

Table: the most common diseases and pests of Ripsalidopsis

Cause	How to recognize?	Way to fight
Spider mite	It feeds on plant sap, sometimes white cobwebs and red-brown spots appear.	Spray the plant with acaricide (Fitoverm, Neoron, Apollo) following the instructions.
Mealybug	On the stems there is white, sticky down to the touch.	Remove visible pests with a damp cloth, gently wipe or spray the stems with a solution of alcohol or insecticide (Mospilan, Tanrek).
Shield	Hard brown, gray-brown scutes on stem segments.	Wipe off insects with a damp cloth, treat the plant with an insecticide (Phosbecid, Metaphos). It will take 3-4 procedures.
Fusarium	The stems turn yellow from bottom to top. The root collar turns black.	Spray the plant with systemic fungicides (Topaz, Vectra) or Bordeaux liquid. For prophylaxis, before planting, disinfect the soil by calcining, and the roots with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate.
Late blight	On stems purple-brown spots, increasing in size. Soft rot appears, the shoots are deformed.	If detected early, remove the affected part, sprinkle the slices with activated carbon. Treat the plant with Fitosporin-M, Fundazol, Previkur, transplant, replacing the soil and pot. If you do nothing, the cactus will die. It is better not to use cuttings (even healthy looking) from such a plant for propagation.

Temperature

The optimum temperature for proper flower care at home should be about 18-22 degrees. But this only applies to the spring-summer period. From late autumn to early spring, the temperature should be even lower - 10-12 degrees above zero. Such a drop will facilitate the formation of new buds for summer flowering.

Watering mode

The time of soil moistening depends on the state of its top layer. It should be slightly damp at all times. Therefore, in hot weather, you will have to water the flower quite often. But in the autumn-winter period, watering should be reduced to about once every 7-10 days. However, it is necessary to reduce the frequency and abundance of watering gradually, so as not to bring the plant to stress.

Lighting

This point should be given special attention. A flower grower will not notice full development and lush flowering without providing the ripsalidopsis with bright, but diffused lighting. To do this, you need to choose the eastern (less often - southeastern) sides of the room. A southern sill will work too. But then, in the days of the scorching sun, the plant will need to be hidden from the burning rays. To do this, you can use reflective foil or just a sheet of paper. In the warm season, you can expose the flower to fresh air. Such manipulation will only strengthen the health of the plant.

The soil

It is best to choose soil with a pH level that will not exceed 6. In addition, the substrate should be light, nutritious, and breathable. To prepare the soil yourself, you need to take deciduous, sod, humus, peat and sandy soil (proportions 6: 1: 4: 2: 2, respectively).

Important! It is recommended to disinfect the soil before planting the flower. To do this, it must be placed in the freezer for several hours or in the microwave for several minutes. This will destroy all harmful organisms.

Pruning

It is necessary to cut off the segments of the plant in order to form a beautiful even bush. The stems should not be allowed to be very long and thin.

Do not cut off parts of the flower with pruning shears or scissors. It is necessary to remove long shoots by simple twisting.

Top dressing

In the spring-summer period, Ripsalidopsis enters the phase of active flowering and growth. Therefore, it needs constant feeding - fertilization must be applied at least once every two weeks. Experienced flower growers advise choosing mineral complexes with a minimum amount of nitrogen. Ready-made complexes that are designed to fertilize cacti are ideal.

Pot selection

The flowerpot must be sized for Ripsalidopsis. If the root system is not yet developed, then it is better to select the pot as little as possible. You need to change it to a larger one once a year as the plant grows and the volume of the roots increases.

Air humidification

Despite the fact that the plant belongs to the cactus family, it very poorly tolerates dry air around. Therefore, it is recommended to spray both the flower itself and the air around it as often as possible. And also wipe the sheet plates with a wet cloth. It is advisable to carry out such procedures in the evening.

Step by step transplant process

Young plants can change their "place of residence" every year, adults a little less often - about once every 2-3 years. But this can be done only after the last bud has disappeared. Also do not disturb the flower with transplants during its rest - usually from November to January.

At the bottom of the pot, you need to put a drainage layer about 2-3 centimeters high. Then add the same amount of prepared soil.
Water the ground lightly.
Remove the ripsalidopsis from the previous container. To make the flower easier to come out of the old pot, you need to knock well on the walls of the container. After removing the plant, you need to clean the root system of the old soil.
After that, place the plant in a container with earth and add the rest of the soil. It is necessary to compact the soil so that the flower holds well in the pot. But this must be done very carefully so as not to harm Ripsalidopsis.
At the end of the process, water the soil well. Place the flowerpot in a dark and cool place for 5-7 days. Do not feed or water during this time. After the specified time, return the flower to its usual place.

Reference! You need to repot a plant you just bought from a store as soon as possible. And this should be done according to the same algorithm.

We offer you to watch a video about the process of transplantation of Ripsalidopsis:

How to care for a flower after buying it in a store?

There are practically no special instructions for caring for a cactus at home after purchasing it in a store. The only thing to do is to quarantine the plant for about three weeks. This will detect all existing diseases and pests, as well as protect other plants in the collection from them.

We must not forget about the transplant after the purchase, after the time allotted for quarantine. The soil in which the Ripsaldidopsis was kept in the store must be changed to a new one.

Wintering

Preparation process for winter period are in adaptation to new irrigation conditions and temperature conditions. It is necessary to change the conditions of detention gradually. From about the beginning of October, begin to reduce the abundance of soil moisture. Then, by the end of autumn, the plant will get used to moderate watering. The same should be done with the air temperature.

During wintering, you should not disturb the Ripsalidopsis with any changes, including transfers. Starting from the end of January, you can gradually increase the amount of water applied to the ground in order to prepare the flower for awakening and new flowering.

Street cultivation

Many growers do not recommend planting the described plant outdoors. But if, nevertheless, a flower has already been planted in open ground, then it is necessary to provide him with proper care.

It is possible to move Ripsalidopsis into open ground only when the night air temperature stops dropping below 16-18 degrees.

During the rain, it is better to protect the flower from water getting on it, covering it with a film. It is also worth taking care of humidified air. To do this, it would be best to place a large container filled with water near the plants. Do not forget to replenish it regularly, as in the heat the water evaporates quickly.

How to propagate?

Seeds. Answering the question of how to propagate Ripsalidopsis at home, one cannot fail to mention that you can get seeds yourself, for this you need to cross two related plants. You can even flowers different types... Using a brush, the pollen of one flower is transferred to another flower. In this way, crossing occurs. After a while, a berry ripens on the fertilized flower. However, the ripening process can take a very long time. You can remove the berry from Ripsalidopsis when you notice that the fruit is already wrinkled enough. It will contain seeds ready for planting.
The seed retains its germination ability for several years. A wide, low capacity is well suited for sowing seeds. The soil should consist of leafy earth and river sand in equal proportions. After the first ripening, the seedlings are planted in different pots, several pieces in each container. This will make the bushes more lush and beautiful.
Propagation by cuttings. To separate the stalk from an adult plant, you need to do it only with rotational movements. 2-3 segments are separated from each stalk. Within two to three days, the cuttings are dried. After that, the shoots are placed in moistened soil, but the stems are not buried in the soil.
It is necessary to fix the stalk so that it stands upright. You need to wait until the shoot takes root and then plant a small flower in a permanent pot.
Graft. Ripsalidopsis is grafted onto the stalk of the perennial prickly. It is recommended to vaccinate in the warm season. The branched upper part with leafy plates is removed from the pereskia, leaving a bare stem, which is split at the top. For the scion, a shoot with 2-3 segments is cut off, sharpened with a wedge and inserted into the split at the rootstock cut.
The inoculation is fixed with an oblong thorn, a thorn, a needle and wrapped with a thread (can be replaced with a plaster). The pot with the rootstock cuttings is not covered, accretion with temperature conditions about 18-20 ° C is reached after 15 days, the scion grows. The garter is removed. The most important thing at the end of this process is to promptly remove all shoots and leaves that appear below the grafting.

The grafted plant has a lush flowering.

How to root outdoors?

To plant Ripsalidopsis outside, you need to wait for warm nights. The soil needs to be prepared. To do this, add humus of leaves, a little droppings to it, be sure to take care of drainage. Then moisten the prepared soil well and plant the plants in it. The care is the same as indoors. The main thing is to choose the right place, in which there will be no drafts and a very scorching sun.

Photos of pests and description of diseases

If we talk about pests, then most often it is a spider mite, mealybug, scale insect and false scale insect, the presented photos of which will help to visually identify an insect on a plant.
The most common ailments are fungal and bacterial infections.

At the very beginning, the disease can be distinguished by the decay of a small area on which a wet spot appears. Soon, decay spreads over the entire surface of the flower.

Get rid of the infected areas. The remaining healthy plant is treated with fungicides. Processing is carried out several times at intervals of 5-7 days. Such manipulation will help get rid of both pests and diseases. Also, do not forget about quarantine for a sick plant.

Rhipsalidopsis is a very unpretentious plant that does not require special growing conditions. But the plant's appearance is simply magnificent, it attracts attention, which, in principle, is not surprising.

Classification

Forest cacti are classified into the following genera:

Epiphyllums
Ripsalis
Rhipsalidopsis
Schlum berger.

We are interested in Ripsalidopsis, so let's try to get to the bottom of the truth. Previously, experts attributed them to seven genera, but most often they called them so or epiphilopsis. To date, all Ripsalidopsis or Easter cacti are part of the Gatiora genus.

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Description

You need to start talking about caring for Ripsalidopsis with the question: are you sure you are sure that this particular plant is in front of you? The fact is that Ripsalidopsis has a double, with which it is constantly confused - this is a plant called Schlumberger or, among the people, the Decembrist.

They are indeed very similar, but you can still tell them apart if you know what to look for.

So, you can distinguish Ripsalidopsis from Schlumberger by the shape of the flower:

the first has a rim located symmetrically,
and the second - at an angle, beveled.

The flowers of pink Ripsalidopsis are fragrant. The flowering period of Ripsalidopsis falls in the spring, it often blooms by Easter, for which it received the nickname of the Easter flower. Schlumberger - Decembrist, respectively, blooms in December.
Rhipsalidopsis rests from October to January, that is, before flowering, and the Schumberger dormant period falls on February-March, when the plant has completely departed from flowering.

If you look closely, you will notice that the segments of the trunk of the Ripsalidopsis have rounded and smoothed projections, and there are bristle-shaped spines at the ends. And in Schlumberger's, leaf segments have sharp corners and curly teeth.

By its nature, Ripsalidopsis refers to cacti, but not desert, but forest cacti.

It is native to the humid forests of South America, where it grows in the shady tropics. Close relatives of Ripsalidopsis are epiphyllums, Ripsalis, Ripsalidopsis, Zygocactus, they are also Schlumberger - these are all forest cacti.

Ripsalidopsis flowers

Rhipsalidopsis bloom in spring - from March to May for 1.5-2.5 months, flowers bloom at the ends of the shoots.

Coloring of flowers is different, there are

beige,
pink,
coral,
burgundy options.

The more lush the plant, the more shoots it has, the more abundant the flowering. That is why Ripsalidopsis needs pruning - preferably a lot of short shoots (then a flowering bush turns out), than several long lashes, which are also depleted over time. Prune the cactus after flowering.

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Types and varieties of Ripsalidopsis

The subgenus of Ripsalidopsis is small in number. In nature, the most widespread Ripsalidopsis of the Partner(R. GaBrtneri) with orange-red flowers.

Pink Ripsalidopsis (RRosea) has pink flowers, and R. Graeseri hybrid Ripsalidopsis has purple-pink flowers. with a bright yellow center of stamens.

Especially beautiful flowers in varietal Ripsalidopsis.

The Andromeda variety has large flowers of a fantastic crimson color, while the Anika variety has bright pink-crimson flowers and almost red buds.

Auriga blooms with bright orange flowers. The Castor variety has very beautiful large red flowers.
Bright crimson inflorescences in Torano. and in the center of each petal there is a wide yellow stripe, which gives a unique highlighting effect to each flower.
At Phonix, the petals are bright pink and dark cherry, velvet flowers at Cetuse are almost white, flaky glowing flowers at the Sirius variety.

Can a plant be called a Decembrist?

Rhipsalidopsis is also called the Easter cactus, as it blooms for Easter. But sometimes the people incorrectly call him the Decembrist and are very surprised if he does not bloom in December.

In fact, the Ripsalidopsis are very similar to the Schlumberger. which are called the Decembrist and Eigocactus, but Schlumberger has other stem segments in shape.

In Ripsalidopsis, the projections on the leaf-shaped segments are smoothed, rounded, almost invisible, but spines in the form of a dense bristle are preserved at the ends of the segment-segments.
Schlumberger has segments with sharp teeth at the edges. In some and others, the segment sizes are the same up to 3 cm wide and up to 6 cm long. Young segments grow at the ends of the shoots, one from the other, towards the ground.

Ripsalidopsis differ from Schlumberger not only in the structure of the stems, but also in the shape of the flowers.

In Ripsalidopsis, the flowers are radially symmetrical and with an even corolla.
The Schlumberger rims are clearly beveled. And in pink ripsalidopsis, the flowers are also fragrant.

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Plant care

Since plants develop in their natural environment with high humidity, then home conditions should be created as close as possible to natural ones.

Forest cacti have delicate and underdeveloped roots, so they do not need soil rich in trace elements and abundant moisture in the pot, this will have a detrimental effect.

Table: optimal conditions for growing Ripsalidopsis

From late September to early February (dormant period).	Temperature: no higher than 15–17 ° C. Lighting: bright, diffused. It is best to avoid direct sun. Windows are suitable from the east or west side. Can be placed on the north. Humidity: high. Spray the plant. Avoid drying out and waterlogging of the earthy coma.
Second half of February - mid-March (preparation for flowering).	Before the beginning of bud formation: the temperature is cool, watering is poor. With the appearance of buds: increase the temperature, increase the watering. Do not disturb the plant: you cannot move or even turn the pot so that the buds do not die.
End of March, April, May (flowering time).	Temperature: 18-22 ° C. Watering: plentiful, as the soil dries, only with soft, rain or melt water.
June, July, August, first half of September (active growing season).	Location: Take the plant out into the garden, terrace, or balcony. Shade from direct sun. Watering: moderate, after the soil has dried. Humidity: the higher the better. Spray the plant. Temperature: 17–20 ° C, gradually reduce. Protect from drafts and temperature changes. Watering: Moderate, cut back in October.

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The soil

Plants require rough and loose soil:

coarse sand with gravel without dust,
clay-sod land with lumps, but without remnants of grass and roots,
dust-free charcoal and crushed bricks.

Before planting, the finished soil mixture is heat treated (steamed in the oven). For 3-4 liters of such a mixture, add 1 tsp. superphosphate and 1 tsp. crushed plaster (hydrated lime, chalk).

For these forest cacti, a soil with a slightly acidic reaction is needed - a pH of 6 to 4.5. The added superphosphate will acidify the soil.

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