Elechek is a female headdress. Day of the Kyrgyz Kalpak: how to wear a traditional headdress Kyrgyz headdress
Radio Azattyk - The Kyrgyz editorial office of Radio Liberty has just reported that Kyrgyz deputies have prepared a draft law requiring the president, prime minister and speaker of parliament to wear the national headdress ak kalpak (white cap) during official receptions and foreign visits. The draft law also obliges athletes to wear national headwear at international competitions. According to the authors of the document, this is necessary for "the spiritual development and preservation of the centuries-old tradition of the Kyrgyz people" and in order to "increase the recognition of the people of Kyrgyzstan." The bill equates ak kalpak with the national flag, emblem and anthem.
Kalpak is the Kyrgyz national men's headdress. It is called “ak kalpak” (white cap), as it is sewn mainly from white felt.
Men began to wear ak kalpak in Central Asia in ancient times, from the 13th century. It was worn from khan to poor man, from young horsemen to aksakals. What people and who exactly invented this headdress is no longer known, but it can be said with almost certainty that the Kyrgyz are the only ones who still wear it in droves.
Kalpak not only complemented the traditional men's clothing, consisting of a felt or sheepskin coat and boots, but was also the main attribute in establishing the social belonging of its wearer. A rich man wore a taller kalpak - it seemed to add height and make a person more imposing. The kalpak imparted masculinity to the rider thanks to the forward-directed curved corners. And it was in him that a persistent artistic taste was historically developed, rooted in the depths of centuries.
For kalpach felt, a washed, cleaned, combed out, never used white fine-woolen wool is used. After the felt is made, it is artistically cut and then cut out.
In the 19th century, the manufacture of caps was a woman's business, and they were sold by men. For the manufacture of kalpak, the customer handed over a whole fleece of a young lamb and the fleece was taken as payment.
Each kalpak element is not accidental. This ancient national headdress is sewn from four wedges widening downward; the wedges are not sewn on the sides to the end, which allows raising or lowering the fields, protecting the eyes from the bright sun of the highlands.
On the crown of the kalpak 4 border lines intersect:
1. Personalization of the sun.
2. The symbol of life, being and existence.
The top is always decorated with a tassel. It should always be in front: the tassel symbolizes juniper, which the Kyrgyz associate with eternity.
Tassels on the crown:
1. Incarnation of offspring and putting down deep roots.
2. A symbol of peace, prosperity and well-fed life.
3. Embodies joyful youth and venerable old age.
A kind of cap - ai kalpay, had no split fields. And hundreds of legends have been written about the ornaments that adorn the white felt of the kalpak.
There are about 80 types of kalpak. They are divided by shape, complexity of manufacture, value and, of course, color. More precisely, the ak kalpak itself, for that and "ak", which traditionally should always remain white, but the edging changes depending on age.
Green or red border- children's kalpak. Boys wore it. Green is a symbol of youth, and it showed that they are at the beginning of their life and should learn everything.
Blue or light blue edging- youthful ak kalpak. Young people after 20 years old wore this color. The color of the sky spoke of growth and maturation.
Kalpak with brown piping were worn by men over 30, when the family was already growing, the heads of families had accumulated enough life experience and could benefit their homeland.
Brown on beige border color men changed already in adulthood, after forty. When they could set an example for others, the younger generation.
Black edging appeared on the kalpak of a man who crossed the 60-year mark. A black line on a white background means wisdom. But if an elderly widower put on a white kalpak with a border of black felt, this meant: the grown-up children allowed him to marry a second time.
Most honorable completely white kalpak- headdress of elders, aksakals. It is given only in recognition of a person's leadership.
The parade uniform of Kyrgyzstanis at various official events, athletes from the Kyrgyz Republic at international competitions necessarily includes the white kalpak. When appointed or elected officials, they are always honored with a white kalpak: the tradition of donating kalpak in sovereign Kyrgyzstan has even entered state etiquette!
It is believed that the kalpak, as the most democratic headdress, is the best fit for the parliamentary state. It is also called the most mobile and the most practical: thanks to the edged wedges, the kalpak can be folded in four without prejudice to its shape; can be turned inside out, because it is made of soft felt; in bad weather kalpak does not let rain and snow pass and warms, and on hot days it cools.
In the epic "Manas" the Kyrgyz people are characterized as "a people wearing a white kalpak, the top of which is white, like the peaks of the Tien Shan mountains, and the base is dark, like the foot of the mountains."
In 2011, they even instituted a special national holiday in order to popularize the national headdress. It is celebrated on March 5th.
On this day, classroom hours are traditionally held in schools and lyceums on the topic of kalpak, in museums and theaters - presentations on the historical roots of the origin of various national games in the central square, the dance of nomads "Kara zhorgo" is performed.
A huge, specially made for this occasion, 3-meter kalpak is traditionally carried through the center of Bishkek and past the capital's mayor's office, and a festive concert has been organized on Ala-Too Square for several years in a row.
According to the press service of the Bishkek Mayor's Office, the world's largest ak kalpak is an exact copy of a traditional headdress, made in accordance with all traditions from natural materials.
And like kalpak suits everyone. Do you recognize celebrities?
Each nation of the world has its own characteristics, which are absolutely normal and ordinary for them, but if a person of a different nationality falls into their environment, he may be very surprised at the habits and traditions of the inhabitants of this country, because they will not coincide with his own ideas about life. We invite you to find out 10 national habits and characteristics of the Kyrgyz, which may seem surprising and a little strange to the inhabitants of Russia.
They measure the status by the height of the cap.
People in felt hats can be seen on the streets of Bishkek or Osh, both in the stifling heat in summer and in the fierce cold in winter. And all because the tradition of determining the status of a man by his cap is still alive here. Ordinary people traditionally wore low caps, while representatives of the upper strata wore more elongated ones. Older people and those with a special status traditionally wear "bakai kalpak": a headdress made of white felt with black intersecting edging and hand embroidery.
They play polo with a goat carcass
The most popular national game kok-boru is somewhat reminiscent of polo, where the carcass of a goat or its dummy is used instead of a ball. The main goal is to throw the goat onto a special structure on the territory of the opposing team or gallop with it to a previously agreed place somewhere on the top of the mountain. In early September 2016, Kyrgyzstan hosted the second World Nomad Games, designed to preserve the martial arts and games of nomadic peoples and revive their interest in them. In addition to kok-boru, the game program included various types of wrestling, including belt wrestling, horse racing, archery and complex hunting games.
They fumigate markets with evil eye smoke
In markets in the Kyrgyz Republic, women can often be seen strolling along rows of smoking stupas fanning every other stall with this sour, piercing smoke. Archa (juniper) smokes in stupas, and its smoke is considered an excellent remedy for the evil eye and evil spirits. Thus, these women earn modestly, but nevertheless they earn: without demand, they blow over the shop, and its owner is already forced to pay a small amount, often 10–20 soms (1 ruble = 1.06 soms).
Their yurts can cost more than a foreign car
The art of making Kyrgyz yurts boz-uy was recently included in the UNESCO heritage list. The yurt continues to occupy an important place in the life of the Kyrgyz: families live in them during the seasonal transfer of cattle, kindergartens are organized for the children of nomads in yurts, and throughout the country, yurts are used as temporary points of sale or places of public meetings. The cost of a yurt varies depending on its size, capacity and materials: the cheapest will cost about 80,000 rubles, and as for the most expensive, there is no limit to perfection. On the forums, you can see advertisements for the sale of yurts for both $ 3000 and $ 15,000. At the same time, the service life of a yurt is much longer than that of an average foreign car - about 25 years in nomadic conditions.
They build yurts for the dead
The yurt has occupied and continues to occupy an important place in funeral rites. Even in Bishkek, in the courtyards between the five-story buildings, one can sometimes see memorial yurts. The family of the deceased builds a yurt, leaves the deceased in it for two nights and three days, and thus allows all relatives, acquaintances and neighbors to say goodbye to him. At the same time, close relatives of the deceased remain in the yurt around the clock.
They steal brides
Ala-kachuu, the rite of kidnapping the bride, is still preserved in Kyrgyzstan, although human rights organizations are strenuously fighting it. According to them, more than 15,000 girls annually become victims of the ceremony, despite the fact that it is punishable under criminal law. At the same time, only a small number of thefts are staged, most of the girls are forcibly stolen. If the bride is stolen, then she will be obliged to marry her captor. The final gesture of ala-kachuu is a white scarf: if the eldest woman in the family puts it on the girl's head, she becomes a bride. If the bride tries to escape, the groom's mother or grandmother usually lies across the doorstep. A girl, according to local customs, has no right to offend an elder - to step over him. Public organizations in Kyrgyzstan are doing a lot of educational work: they publish posters in which they tell in detail what to do in the event of a theft, urge the older generation to abandon the old rituals, publish social videos in which they talk about the importance of the girl's independent choice.
They build summer cottages from shipping containers
Traveling around Kyrgyzstan, you pay attention to the amazing attachment of local residents to decommissioned cargo containers. A whole market is made up of them in Bishkek according to the LEGO principle, they also make excellent garages and office premises, and two or three containers in a row with cut windows turn into a summer cottage. One container costs a little less than $ 1000, several times cheaper than a good yurt, and is erected almost as quickly. In general, the Kyrgyz do not lag behind modern trends in architecture and follow the principles of recycling with might and main.
Their table is the floor
Travelers planning a trip to the Kyrgyz Republic should be prepared for the daily gymnastic overtures they will have to do while sitting down at the table. The fact is that it is customary here to eat sitting on a mat on the floor, and if not on the floor, then on raised platforms that imitate the floor. If at the beginning of the feast it is usually not difficult to sit on the floor, then after a plentiful feast that lasts more than one hour, it will be possible to get up from the table only by holding onto a neighbor.
They present a ram's tail as a sign of respect.
It is customary to slaughter a ram for especially important events and holidays in Kyrgyzstan. At the same time, different parts of it will be intended for different guests around the table - depending on their position. The ram's head is most often served to the guest of honor himself, the tail to the guest of honor, and the iliac (pelvic) bone to the elder. The lucky one who receives the head must cut out the ram's eyes and cut them in half, sharing the delicacy with another guest whom he would like to see more often. The palate is usually given to a young woman, while the left ear remains with the owner and the right ear is given to the children.
They can't get up without an omen from the table.
Omen before and after meals is no longer perceived in Kyrgyzstan as a religious rite, although it takes its roots in Islam. Bringing both palms to the face and saying "Omen", the Kyrgyz thus thank you at the table. Usually the omen is done together, including guests. At the end of any holiday, successful negotiations or simple eating, the eldest of those present or the guest of honor pronounces words of thanks and gives a small parting word, and then all those present at the same time perform the omen. It is not customary to take food from the table after the Omen.
Elechek (kimishek, bas orau) is a headdress of married women among some Turkic peoples (the Kyrgyz, Kazaki, Karakalpaks, Nogai are peoples very close to each other in language and genealogy-sanzhyre). Today, when there is a revival of our own cultural values, it is very important not to lock ourselves in our national apartments and look for differences between closely related peoples. It is much more important to find common and restore the rich heritage of our own common ancestors without any disputes about what is, for example, Kyrgyz or Kazakh, and who got it in the beginning. How can you divide something into your own and someone else's, if we come from the same ancestors? Therefore, all types of elecheks that the Kyrgyz could or will have are represented here, since other fraternal peoples have and have them. In parallel, I will try to give explanations for certain details of the elechek, of course, in my own interpretation, and the correctness of the conclusions at the choice of the reader - I just express my opinion.
As a matter of fact, elechek is a turban, which is very common among many peoples, orientalized (the image of the East in the eyes of the West), the image of which is associated with the image of luxury and palace-harem sexuality. However, among the Turkic peoples, the elechek turban, on the contrary, is associated with the image of the purity of feminine and maternal decency. Already in ancient times in Central Asia, the turban was symbolically associated more with the feminine principle and the feminine cycle, often conditionally tied to the lunar, which reflected the ability to bear children.
Reconstruction of a woman's headdress based on a wall painting in Penjikent (7th century) depicting the moon goddess
What exactly is considered an elechek and how does it differ from a turban? Elechek should consist of at least two (three) parts, (1) a turban (actually elechek), (2) a ponytail from a turban covering the braids and (3) fabric covering the cheeks and neck). Sometimes, to preserve the shape of the elechek, it is wrapped around a skullcap.
Elechek protected married women not only from the evil eye, but also from the sun's rays. No wonder the poetic epithets of young daughters-in-law and wives (kelin-zheӊe) became "white cheeks" and / or "white neck", since, unlike a girl's hat, elechek protected a woman's skin from sunburn. Optionally, elechek could be made of white material, for example, among the Karakalpaks, young wives wore kimishek made of red material, and older ones wore white ones.
Karakalpak red and white kimishek
The word kimishek (among the Kazakhs and Karakalpaks), perhaps, is an abbreviation for "kiyim elechek" - at least that's what the Kyrgyz called the elechek of the Kazakh women. Another female headdress of the Karakalpaks gives a possible explanation for one of the details of the elechek. Among the Karakalpaks, women wear “popek” on a skullcap - an additional decoration in the form of a wrist ball or brush - and unmarried girls and girls wear a “popek” on the left side, and married girls - on the right side of the skullcap.
Popek on skullcaps of Karakalpak women
This suggests that the popek showed a woman's belonging to one side or the other - remember that the yurt is divided into female and male halves and the Turkic el in ancient times was also divided into Kagan (conditionally male) and Katun (conditionally female) wings. Popek on one side or another of the skullcap also symbolized the woman's belonging to herself (to the left side, which you can still walk to) or belonging to a man. In the same way, part of the elechek's material was bent in one direction or another, which additionally (in addition to the elechek itself) symbolized the fact that the woman already belongs to this or that man, however, like him to her.
Elechek, wrapped to the right (Kazakh and Karakalpaks)
And here a little explanation is needed why some elements are wrapped to the left, while others to the right. Perhaps this is due to the fact that in ancient times among the Türks the (conditionally) male dominant wing was considered the left wing, but later (possibly in the post-Mongolian period) the right wing became the main (conditionally), therefore, in the symbolic designation, belonging to the male was a little confused. Or perhaps it was just that women of one clan-tribe turned elechek in one direction only because women of another clan-tribe turned it in the opposite direction (here it is appropriate to add a phrase that was used by Muslim historians: "Allah knows best", especially if it concerns women's clothing).
Elechek, wrapped to the left (Kyrgyz, Kazakh)
The variety of elecheks varies not only from belonging to one or another clan-tribe, but also from the status of a woman in the family. So, for example, widows wore black elechek, and women of higher status wore large elechek or taller, or taller, and larger. For example, in this photo of the bow of the newly-made Kazakh groom to the mother and the bride's relatives, it is immediately clear to whom the bow is addressed in the first place, which, by the way, today the Kazakh horsemen refuse to do, unlike, for example, the Kyrgyz groom.
Meanwhile, the number of varieties of the Kazakh kimishek is worthy of worship.
Some varieties of Kazakh kimishek
However, like any other Turkic people, whose married women wear elechek. Some elecheks were with a ledge forward, which is very similar to copying the Saka kalpak.
Kazaki (Syrdarya)
Among other things, it is possible that two tails may be present in elechekas, since a married woman braided two braids (we use one wide one), as we see on these Polovtsian statues.
However, the question arises, how did women work in such large headdresses? Again, most likely, the amount of elechek material and, accordingly, its weight and comfort for work depended on the status and age of the woman in the family. In addition, women could work not only in small elechekas, but also in headscarves, as, for example, these two Kazakh young women, who had to work for five.
The dependence of the size of the turban on the position of the woman in general can be traced in the turbans of other ethnic groups, whose status was not equal to that of the ruling Turkic-Muslim elite. For example, the turbans and kimisheks of the Gypsies, Chala-Kazakhs and Jews were much smaller in size and weight, as was the weight of these groups in the then society.
Gypsy, Chala-Kazakh, Jewish
Therefore, it may be necessary to take into account the dependence of the size of the elechek on the status of a woman in the clan and her age. A lightweight version of the elechek is very possible, which, apparently, existed. This miniature from Shah-name, written in the 16th century for the Turkish sultan and kept in Topkapi in Istanbul, shows women with small turbans (judging by the circles on the headdress, the cloth is wrapped several times around the head, like elechek) and knit braids.
Afghan Kyrgyz women use a lighter version of elechek, which is very convenient for everyday life.
Most likely, we are accustomed to large elechekas due to the fact that at the beginning of the 20th century, when photographs of Kyrgyz women in elechekas or their own memories were taken, and they were worn mainly by older women, who were supposed to wear more material on their heads due to their status ... Today, when the convenience of everyday wear is decisive for the choice of women, it is quite possible to recommend wearing elecheki and smaller sizes for the occasion. The revival of national and cultural values can proceed not only according to the preserved ethnographic history of the late 19th-early 20th centuries, it is possible to go much further and diversify the wardrobe of our women, which they themselves will be glad to see.
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Today, March 5, Kyrgyzstan celebrates the Day of the Kyrgyz national headdress - ak kalpak. In recent years, it was worn only on rare special occasions. In order to popularize the traditional headdress, the authorities established Ak Kalpak Day in 2011. It should be noted that the efforts have yielded positive results. Young people carry out flash mobs in a white kalpak, designers offer new concepts for a traditional headdress, and foreigners massively buy an exotic accessory for them.
In Kyrgyz culture, kalpak was perhaps the most democratic headdress. It was worn by all men without exception - from the khan to the poor, from the youth to the old. They differed only in shape and color, which spoke of the social status, financial situation and age of the owner.
Now the tradition of donating kalpak has even entered state etiquette. When appointed or elected, officials are now honored with a white kalpak, and the ceremonial uniform of Kyrgyz athletes at international competitions necessarily includes a white kalpak.
Real kalpak is sewn only from natural felt. For him, a special felt is made separately from cleaned, combed, white fine-wool fresh wool. Therefore, kalpak was considered not only a traditional headdress of the Kyrgyz, but also emphasized the material well-being of the owner. In ancient times it was even said: "An adult camel is the price of a kalpak made of that cloth."
Now a kalpak made from natural felt in Kyrgyzstan is estimated at at least 1,500 soms, while its analogue with an admixture of synthetic materials costs about 200-300 soms. It costs almost twice as much in online stores, where it is mainly ordered by foreigners who have heard about the practicality of a headdress. In Moscow, kalpak can be bought for about 2 thousand rubles, in an online store it costs from $ 30 to $ 50.
Speaking of practicality, it should be noted that the kalpak is the most "mobile" headgear. Thanks to the soft felt, it can be turned inside out, and the edged wedges allow it to be folded four times without losing its shape. Due to the dense felt made of natural wool, kalpak warms in the cold, cools in the heat, and does not allow moisture to pass in the rain.
Kalpaks are cut in different shapes, and they all have a kind of ornament, but each embroidery and color has its own meaning. The four edging lines are a symbol of life; tassels on the crown represent offspring and the memory of ancestors; the pattern speaks of the branching of the genus, but it is not customary to do too complex patterns, so as not to seem like a braggart. The color of the border indicates the age and experience of its owner.
It is customary to give kalpaks with a green border to boys at the age of 12, as a sign that they are at the beginning of their life and must learn everything.
24-year-old young people are presented with a kalpak with a blue border, 36-year-old men - with a brown one, which represents the earth. This means that at this age, men have already started their own families and gained enough experience to benefit their homeland.
At the age of 48, they are supposed to give a headdress with a beige border, which means that they can already set an example for the younger generation, and 60-year-old men can be presented with kalpaks with a black velvet border. A black line on a white background means wisdom, rich life experience of its owner and the ability to distinguish good from bad.
There are about 80 types of kalpak. They are divided into shapes, the degree of complexity of manufacture, value and practicality.
Kalpak also spoke about the man's marital status. If a young man went out in a white kalpak with a red border, this indicated that he was actively looking for a second half. At this moment, the matchmakers had to hurry up and bring him to a potential bride.
When an elderly widower put on a white kalpak with a border of black felt, it meant that the grown-up children allowed him to marry a second time.
A kalpak made of snow-white felt trimmed with white fabrics is presented only in recognition of human leadership.
The kalpak must not be thrown, lost, put on the ground, sold or transferred to another kalpak. It was believed that with him a person was deprived of his dignity, intelligence and piety. The headdress symbolized sacred protection, and attacking its wearer was considered sacrilege and blasphemy.
The kalpak must be removed with both hands and placed only in a place of honor, and before going to bed it must be left at the head of the bed.
