Elechek is a female headdress. The main types of Kyrgyz male costume Kyrgyz hat
Elechek (kimishek, bas orau) is a headdress of married women among some Turkic peoples (the Kyrgyz, Kazaki, Karakalpaks, Nogai are peoples very close to each other in language and genealogy-sanzhyre). Today, when there is a revival of our own cultural values, it is very important not to lock ourselves in our national apartments and look for differences between closely related peoples. It is much more important to find common and restore the rich heritage of our own common ancestors without any disputes about what is, for example, Kyrgyz or Kazakh, and who got it in the beginning. How can you divide something into your own and someone else's, if we come from the same ancestors? Therefore, all types of elecheks that the Kyrgyz could or will have are represented here, since other fraternal peoples have and have them. In parallel, I will try to give explanations for certain details of the elechek, of course, in my own interpretation, and the correctness of the conclusions at the choice of the reader - I just express my opinion.
As a matter of fact, elechek is a turban, which is very common among many peoples, orientalized (the image of the East in the eyes of the West), the image of which is associated with the image of luxury and palace-harem sexuality. However, among the Turkic peoples, the elechek turban, on the contrary, is associated with the image of the purity of feminine and maternal decency. Already in ancient times in Central Asia, the turban was symbolically associated more with the feminine principle and the feminine cycle, often conditionally tied to the lunar, which reflected the ability to bear children.
Reconstruction of a woman's headdress based on a wall painting in Penjikent (7th century) depicting the moon goddess
What exactly is considered an elechek and how does it differ from a turban? Elechek should consist of at least two (three) parts, (1) a turban (actually elechek), (2) a ponytail from a turban covering the braids and (3) fabric covering the cheeks and neck). Sometimes, to preserve the shape of the elechek, it is wrapped around a skullcap.
Elechek protected married women not only from the evil eye, but also from the sun's rays. No wonder the poetic epithets of young daughters-in-law and wives (kelin-zheӊe) became "white cheeks" and / or "white neck", since, unlike a girl's hat, elechek protected a woman's skin from sunburn. Optionally, elechek could be made of white material, for example, among the Karakalpaks, young wives wore kimishek made of red material, and older ones wore white ones.
Karakalpak red and white kimishek
The word kimishek (among the Kazakhs and Karakalpaks), perhaps, is an abbreviation for "kiyim elechek" - at least that's what the Kyrgyz called the elechek of the Kazakh women. Another female headdress of the Karakalpaks gives a possible explanation for one of the details of the elechek. Among the Karakalpaks, women wear “popek” on a skullcap - an additional decoration in the form of a wrist ball or brush - and unmarried girls and girls wear a “popek” on the left side, and married girls - on the right side of the skullcap.
Popek on skullcaps of Karakalpak women
This suggests that the popek showed a woman's belonging to one side or the other - remember that the yurt is divided into female and male halves and the Turkic el in ancient times was also divided into Kagan (conditionally male) and Katun (conditionally female) wings. Popek on one side or another of the skullcap also symbolized the woman's belonging to herself (to the left side, which you can still walk to) or belonging to a man. In the same way, part of the elechek's material was bent in one direction or another, which additionally (in addition to the elechek itself) symbolized the fact that the woman already belongs to this or that man, however, like him to her.
Elechek, wrapped to the right (Kazakh and Karakalpaks)
And here a little explanation is needed why some elements are wrapped to the left, while others to the right. Perhaps this is due to the fact that in ancient times among the Türks the (conditionally) male dominant wing was considered the left wing, but later (possibly in the post-Mongolian period) the right wing became the main (conditionally), therefore, in the symbolic designation, belonging to the male was a little confused. Or perhaps it was just that women of one clan-tribe turned elechek in one direction only because women of another clan-tribe turned it in the opposite direction (here it is appropriate to add a phrase that was used by Muslim historians: "Allah knows best", especially if it concerns women's clothing).
Elechek, wrapped to the left (Kyrgyz, Kazakh)
The variety of elecheks varies not only from belonging to one or another clan-tribe, but also from the status of a woman in the family. So, for example, widows wore black elechek, and women of higher status wore large elechek or taller, or taller, and larger. For example, in this photo of the bow of the newly-made Kazakh groom to the mother and the bride's relatives, it is immediately clear to whom the bow is addressed in the first place, which, by the way, today the Kazakh horsemen refuse to do, unlike, for example, the Kyrgyz groom.
Meanwhile, the number of varieties of the Kazakh kimishek is worthy of worship.
Some varieties of Kazakh kimishek
However, like any other Turkic people, whose married women wear elechek. Some elecheks were with a ledge forward, which is very similar to copying the Saka kalpak.
Kazaki (Syrdarya)
Among other things, it is possible that two tails may be present in elechekas, since a married woman braided two braids (we use one wide one), as we see on these Polovtsian statues.
However, the question arises, how did women work in such large headdresses? Again, most likely, the amount of elechek material and, accordingly, its weight and comfort for work depended on the status and age of the woman in the family. In addition, women could work not only in small elechekas, but also in headscarves, as, for example, these two Kazakh young women, who had to work for five.
The dependence of the size of the turban on the position of the woman in general can be traced in the turbans of other ethnic groups, whose status was not equal to that of the ruling Turkic-Muslim elite. For example, the turbans and kimisheks of the Gypsies, Chala-Kazakhs and Jews were much smaller in size and weight, as was the weight of these groups in the then society.
Gypsy, Chala-Kazakh, Jewish
Therefore, it may be necessary to take into account the dependence of the size of the elechek on the status of a woman in the clan and her age. A lightweight version of the elechek is very possible, which, apparently, existed. This miniature from Shah-name, written in the 16th century for the Turkish sultan and kept in Topkapi in Istanbul, shows women with small turbans (judging by the circles on the headdress, the cloth is wrapped several times around the head, like elechek) and knit braids.
Afghan Kyrgyz women use a lighter version of elechek, which is very convenient for everyday life.
Most likely, we are accustomed to large elechekas due to the fact that at the beginning of the 20th century, when photographs of Kyrgyz women in elechekas or their own memories were taken, and they were worn mainly by older women, who were supposed to wear more material on their heads due to their status ... Today, when the convenience of everyday wear is decisive for the choice of women, it is quite possible to recommend wearing elecheki and smaller sizes for the occasion. The revival of national and cultural values can proceed not only according to the preserved ethnographic history of the late 19th-early 20th centuries, it is possible to go much further and diversify the wardrobe of our women, which they themselves will be glad to see.
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Marcel Zeynullin
Cap
Cap- this old Kyrgyz headdress is still very popular in the republic.
In the 19th century, the manufacture of caps was a woman's business, and they were sold by men. For the manufacture of the cap, the customer handed over a whole fleece of a young lamb and the fleece was taken as payment.
The caps were sewn from four wedges widening downward. Wedges were not sewn on the sides, which allows the fields to be raised or lowered, protecting the eyes from the bright sun. The top was decorated with a tassel.
Kyrgyz caps were varied in cut. The caps of the nobility were with a high crown, the margins of the cap were hemmed with black velvet. Poor Kirghiz wore their headdresses with satin, and children's caps were decorated with red velvet or red cloth.
A kind of cap - ah kolpay - had no split fields. The felt cap is also worn by other peoples of Central Asia. Its appearance in Central Asia dates back to the 13th century.
Malachai
Malachai- a special type of headgear, a distinctive feature of which is a long head-piece that descends on the back, connected to elongated earpieces. It was made from fox fur, less often from the fur of a young ram or deer, and the top was covered with fabric.
A wide caftan without a belt was also called Malachai.
Tebetey
Tebetey is a common winter headdress, an indispensable part of the male Kyrgyz national costume. It has a flat four-wedge crown and is sewn, as a rule, of velvet or cloth, trimmed most often with fox fur or marten, and in the Tien Shan regions - with black lamb fur. Kyzyl tebetey is a red hat. It was worn on the head during the erection of the khanate.
In the past, there was a custom: if a messenger was sent by an important chief, then his "visiting card" was the messenger presented by the messenger of this chief.
"Throw her your chapan, I'll give you another, silk one."
V.Yan. Genghis Khan.
Chapan
Chapan - men's and women's long robe-type clothing. It was considered indecent to leave the house without chapan. Chapan is sewn on cotton wool or camel wool with a chintz lining. In the old days, the lining was made from a mat - a cheap white or printed cotton fabric. From above, the chapan was covered with velvet, cloth, velveteen. Currently, only the elderly wear chapans.
There are several variants of this dress, caused by ethnic differences: nigut chapan - a wide tunic-like robe, sleeves with a gusset, sewn in at right angles; kaptama chapan - loose cut, sewn-in sleeves with a rounded armhole and straight narrow chapan with side slits. The hem and sleeves are usually lined with cord.
Kementai
Kementai is a wide felt robe. This clothing is mainly for breeders: it protects from the cold and rain. In the past, richly decorated white Kementai was worn by wealthy Kyrgyz.
Elechek
Elechek is a female headdress in the form of a turban. In full form, it consists of three parts: a cap with a braid was put on the head, on top of it was a small rectangular piece of fabric that covered the neck and was sewn under the chin; on top of everything - a turban of white matter.
In different tribal groups of Kyrgyzstan, the female turban had various forms - from simple wrapping to complex structures slightly reminiscent of the Russian horned kika.
In Kyrgyzstan, the turban has become widespread.
She was called a cripple, but among the southern and northern Kyrgyz - elechek. The same name was used by some groups of Kazakhs. For the first time, elechek was worn young, sending her to her husband's house, thereby emphasizing her transition to another age group. The wedding wish to the young woman said: "Let your white elechek not fall off your head." It was a wish for long family happiness.
Elechek was worn in winter and summer, without it it was not customary to leave the yurt even to fetch water.
Radio Azattyk - The Kyrgyz editorial office of Radio Liberty has just reported that Kyrgyz deputies have prepared a draft law requiring the president, prime minister and speaker of parliament to wear the national headdress ak kalpak (white cap) during official receptions and foreign visits. The draft law also obliges athletes to wear national headwear at international competitions. According to the authors of the document, this is necessary for "the spiritual development and preservation of the centuries-old tradition of the Kyrgyz people" and in order to "increase the recognition of the people of Kyrgyzstan." The bill equates ak kalpak with the national flag, emblem and anthem.
Kalpak is the Kyrgyz national men's headdress. It is called “ak kalpak” (white cap), as it is sewn mainly from white felt.
Men began to wear ak kalpak in Central Asia in ancient times, from the 13th century. It was worn from khan to poor man, from young horsemen to aksakals. What people and who exactly invented this headdress is no longer known, but it can be said with almost certainty that the Kyrgyz are the only ones who still wear it in droves.
Kalpak not only complemented the traditional men's clothing, consisting of a felt or sheepskin coat and boots, but was also the main attribute in establishing the social belonging of its wearer. A rich man wore a taller kalpak - it seemed to add height and make a person more imposing. The kalpak imparted masculinity to the rider thanks to the forward-directed curved corners. And it was in him that a persistent artistic taste was historically developed, rooted in the depths of centuries.
For kalpach felt, a washed, cleaned, combed out, never used white fine-woolen wool is used. After the felt is made, it is artistically cut and then cut out.
In the 19th century, the manufacture of caps was a woman's business, and they were sold by men. For the manufacture of kalpak, the customer handed over a whole fleece of a young lamb and the fleece was taken as payment.
Each kalpak element is not accidental. This ancient national headdress is sewn from four wedges widening downward; the wedges are not sewn on the sides to the end, which allows raising or lowering the fields, protecting the eyes from the bright sun of the highlands.
On the crown of the kalpak 4 border lines intersect:
1. Personalization of the sun.
2. The symbol of life, being and existence.
The top is always decorated with a tassel. It should always be in front: the tassel symbolizes juniper, which the Kyrgyz associate with eternity.
Tassels on the crown:
1. Incarnation of offspring and putting down deep roots.
2. A symbol of peace, prosperity and well-fed life.
3. Embodies joyful youth and venerable old age.
A kind of cap - ai kalpay, had no split fields. And hundreds of legends have been written about the ornaments that adorn the white felt of the kalpak.
There are about 80 types of kalpak. They are divided by shape, complexity of manufacture, value and, of course, color. More precisely, the ak kalpak itself, for that and "ak", which traditionally should always remain white, but the edging changes depending on age.
Green or red border- children's kalpak. Boys wore it. Green is a symbol of youth, and it showed that they are at the beginning of their life and should learn everything.
Blue or light blue edging- youthful ak kalpak. Young people after 20 years old wore this color. The color of the sky spoke of growth and maturation.
Kalpak with brown piping were worn by men over 30, when the family was already growing, the heads of families had accumulated enough life experience and could benefit their homeland.
Brown on beige border color men changed already in adulthood, after forty. When they could set an example for others, the younger generation.
Black edging appeared on the kalpak of a man who crossed the 60-year mark. A black line on a white background means wisdom. But if an elderly widower put on a white kalpak with a border of black felt, this meant: the grown-up children allowed him to marry a second time.
Most honorable completely white kalpak- headdress of elders, aksakals. It is given only in recognition of a person's leadership.
The parade uniform of Kyrgyzstanis at various official events, athletes from the Kyrgyz Republic at international competitions necessarily includes the white kalpak. When appointed or elected officials, they are always honored with a white kalpak: the tradition of donating kalpak in sovereign Kyrgyzstan has even entered state etiquette!
It is believed that the kalpak, as the most democratic headdress, is the best fit for the parliamentary state. It is also called the most mobile and the most practical: thanks to the edged wedges, the kalpak can be folded in four without prejudice to its shape; can be turned inside out, because it is made of soft felt; in bad weather kalpak does not let rain and snow pass and warms, and on hot days it cools.
In the epic "Manas" the Kyrgyz people are characterized as "a people wearing a white kalpak, the top of which is white, like the peaks of the Tien Shan mountains, and the base is dark, like the foot of the mountains."
In 2011, they even instituted a special national holiday in order to popularize the national headdress. It is celebrated on March 5th.
On this day, classroom hours are traditionally held in schools and lyceums on the topic of kalpak, in museums and theaters - presentations on the historical roots of the origin of various national games in the central square, the dance of nomads "Kara zhorgo" is performed.
A huge, specially made for this occasion, 3-meter kalpak is traditionally carried through the center of Bishkek and past the capital's mayor's office, and a festive concert has been organized on Ala-Too Square for several years in a row.
According to the press service of the Bishkek Mayor's Office, the world's largest ak kalpak is an exact copy of a traditional headdress, made in accordance with all traditions from natural materials.
And like kalpak suits everyone. Do you recognize celebrities?
