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The emergence of fashion for bags made of fabric. Item History: Belt Bag. Impulse of inspiration with Yulia Astafieva. The history of bags

Recently, this piece of clothing has caused serious battles on Gossip. But the fact remains - a bag is a piece of clothing! Therefore, I propose to talk a little about the history of the bag.
According to historians, a woman's handbag began with a pocket. The first pockets appeared on the camisole Louis XIV... And only later they settled down on vests and trousers.
Previously, coins were carried in pouches. Men are at the waist, and women are under the skirt. The novelty in clothes in the form of pockets suited the men quite well, and they began to be content with them. Women, taking the idea of ​​a pocket as a basis, began to invent handbags. At first, women carried small pouches to store small items in them. But even then, these handbags had different shapes and decorations, and were made from different materials. In Burgundy at the court, bags were part of the court dress and were called "omoniers". In those distant times, whole collections of handbags were created. And since they were attached to the belt with a string, the walking was accompanied by the ringing of coins. In the 17th century, women began to decorate their handbags with beads and bugles. Women, restless in invention, decorated bags with embroidery, knitted or weaved purse-pouches (reticules). By changing appearance handbags, women stopped hiding them under skirts or in pockets. they wanted to show their beautiful handbags to the whole world. So the history of fashion for handbags has changed.
In the next century, fabric handbags decorated with lace appeared. They were named "pompadour" in memory of the favorite of the French king - Louis XV. Wealthy ladies competed to make the most striking and catchy handbag. In the same 18th century, secret pockets appeared, sewn into the side seams of skirts and trousers. When narrow and long skirts appeared, there was no room for pockets. And that's when all sorts of bags appeared. On a long handle so you can hang it over your shoulder. Large sizes to put more in it. Etc. This is how handbags appeared, which are the prototype of our modern bags. As men joke, a women's bag is an analogue of a men's garage (some manage to lose the most unexpected things in their bag, as often happens with men in the garage). Naturally, women could not limit themselves in any way to a small bag under the skirt, if you can have a more roomy and practical bag.
The legendary Birkin bag According to legend, the history of the creation of the iconic bag began in the cabin of the plane. By a lucky coincidence, the head of the Hermes firm turned out to be a neighbor on the plane of the model, actress and singer Jane Birkin. Jane complained to a neighbor that she could not find a comfortable bag. “I will make you a bag that you will never part with,” a neighbor promised her. So in 1984 the legendary Birkin bag was born. According to another (less romantic) version, the sketch of the bag was invented and sketched by the actress herself. She accidentally dropped the sketches, and a representative of the Hermes firm helped her to collect them. He suggested that the actress make a bag and name it Birkin. Why is this bag so famous? Made from calfskin or crocodile leather, it is scratch-resistant, yet soft and pleasant to the touch. The fittings are made of gold or palladium. This bag has a lock that can be locked with a key. The bag itself is very expensive, worth a fortune. The average price of a Birkin bag reaches $ 27,000. Nevertheless, those wishing to get it can wait for their turn from two to five years.
Such a high price means not only the impeccable quality of the bag. By buying this bag, people are buying a legend. The appearance of the envelope bag dates back to the 20s of the 20th century. And by the beginning of the Second World War, a wide variety of car bags, suitcases and briefcases appeared, originating from the usual travel bag. After the war, they began to wear large bags and mainly on a belt. The famous designer Christian Dior, along with feminine forms of clothing, offered bags of a different kind - with draperies and other all kinds of adornments. The emergence of youth fashion has dramatically changed the style of handbags. Now the bags have acquired the features of a sporty style. Now fashion offers a very large selection of bags of different shapes, sizes and very different purposes.
Such a variety is understandable - bags should fit into the general style of clothing, and be comfortable for people with a wide variety of tastes, and there are a great many of them. Well, just a photo of bags, good and different :)





Thanks to all!

Historians claim that the history of handbags began in the pocket. For the first time, pockets appeared in the 17th century on the camisole of Louis XIV, later they were located on the vest, and then appeared on the trousers.

Until this happy time, coins were carried in pouches. For men, they hung on the belt, and for women - under the skirt (it is interesting that in our time women began to hide money in another secluded place). After the appearance of pockets, men began to be content with them, and women began to "develop" the bag line. They wore small handbags, designed for storing small items. Even then, these bags were made from different materials, had different shapes and decorations.

In the Middle Ages, money was put in "pockets for good" (Gurteltasche), which was attached to the belt, and along with it a leather bag for small money was attached to the belt. In the XIV-XV centuries. these "pockets" were worn by both men and women. At the Burgundian court, they were part of the court dress - they were called "riot police".

During the late Gothic period, entire collections of bags of various shapes and sizes were created. They were worn on a cord and at the waist, and walking was thus accompanied by the melody of a coin chime.
In the 17th century, women began to wear embroidered, knitted, braided, richly decorated with beads and glass beads. purses-pouches (reticules)... Fashion changed radically, and bags were no longer hiding in pockets and under skirts - they were eager to show the whole world.
In the 18th century, handbags made of fabric or lace appeared, they were called "pompadour" in memory of the favorite of the French king Louis XV. Wealthy ladies competed in making artsy handbags... At the same time, women's clothing hidden pockets appeared, sewn into the side seams of the skirts.

1790 is considered the year birthday bag to be carried in hand... This is due to the French revolution and with the new women's fashion. The innovation was a success, and after a few years, since 1804, the rules of good manners are attributed to men to keep their hands in their pockets, and to women - pockets (that is, bags) in their hands. So the androgenicity of the pocket, belt bag and coin box was lost - and the woman learned to leave the house holding a small handbag.

In the Victorian era, the mass, industrial production of bags was born. The first companies appeared, such as Hermès and Louis Vuitton. However, homemade bags and, so to speak, piece bags remained more popular for a long time, because the middle class could not always afford a brocade or leather bag made of English or Spanish leather.
Bag locks appeared in the 19th century, and zipper was invented in 1923. ...
Classic bags of strict geometric shapes are still considered versatile. And picking them up today is much easier than in the days of Grace Kelly: then the rules of decency required that the bag must match in color or at least in shade with shoes, gloves, scarf and other accessories.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, the women's handbag was finally legalized along with trousers, cropped skirts and short haircuts, and the history of great bags began. It is no coincidence that there is National Bag Day in Great Britain - October 4th.

And (hurray!) The size of the bags began to grow rapidly. Fashionistas began to acquire large handbags on a long strap or chain strap. And soon there were hard bags, which are the prototype of our modern bags. Various materials were used: satin and silk, tapestries and leather, wood and glass, iron and plastic, straw.

Bags museums

In Tokyo, there is even a Handbag Museum, which has more than 3000 items brought from all over the world. Bags of various sizes and purposes are presented to the attention of visitors - from tobacco pouches to handbags.

As men joke, a women's bag is an analogue of a men's garage (everything is there!). That is why women could not in any way limit themselves to a small bag under the skirt, they preferred more roomy and practical bags, the abundance of which we see today.
(Sources: School of Life. Photo of bags - Vintage site)

From Crocheted Bags and Purses, 1917
From Crocheted and Knitted Bags magazine, 1935
From Mary Lamb Bags Magazine, 1940

A fashion accessory and faithful companion of women, the bag has not always been a cult item and status item, which it is today. This practical accessory is so important that it deserves to trace its origin. Historians say that the history of women's bags began with a pocket-pouch, which was a separate accessory and was attached to the belt of men's and women's clothing. They were used to store and carry money and various little things.

Since the XIV century, the pocket bag began to perform not only a practical function, but also became an adornment of the costume. Today they are made from a wide variety of materials; the shape and size of the bags often changes according to the arrival new fashion... Male and female models... In the Middle Ages, women, as a rule, wore wide skirts, in the numerous folds of which it was easy to hide the first bags-pockets. Later they began to be attached to the belt with a chain or cord. The accessory was named “riot police”. At the Burgundian court in the 14th and 15th centuries, the omonier was a part of the court dress. The quality and finish of the handbag were an indicator of the lady's status: the higher the position in society, the more expensive materials and decoration (gold threads, pearls, silk, gems) were used for sewing.

TO XVII century representatives of the stronger sex stop using bags, as pockets appear on men's pants. They say that Louis XIV himself was the first to replace the bag with a pocket, because it was on his clothes that the first pocket appeared. As for women's bags, they have become even more diverse and sophisticated. From the Rococo era to the 19th century, women wore ornate, embroidered, knitted and woven pouches.

The year of birth of the first handbag, which began to be carried in the hand, is considered to be 1790. The Marquis de Pompadour is considered to be the legislator of the new fashion. At that time, a trapezoidal women's handbag made of textiles appeared on a long pulling silk cord. The product was decorated with embroidery, beads, lace and more. The accessory has become an integral part of the ladies' toilet. In their handbags, the ladies kept smelling salt, perfume, and a handkerchief.

In the 19th century, handbags increased slightly in size and took on a wide variety of shapes. Additional departments appeared in them. A frame lock appeared for the first time in a ladies' accessory. A bag with such a fastener is called a "reticule".

Bags began to be classified by purpose: for walks, celebrations, visits, dates, going to the theater and other occasions. They were decorated with pearls, embroidery, ribbons and more.

By the mid-1850s, with the development of railways and cruise ships, people began to travel a lot. There was a need to transport things in more functional and roomy items. Companies started making luggage bags. Louis Vuitton suitcases have become very popular. The carpetbag became widespread: it was used for travel by men and women (it was first created from tapestry fabric by Pierre Godillot in France in 1826).

Most of the classic handbags known today were invented by the famous saddlery houses in Paris at the end of the 19th century.

Louis Vuitton's Steamer bag, created in 1901, was the forerunner of the tote bag. An updated version of this model remains in production to this day.

In 1932, Gaston-Louis Vuitton, at the request of the champagne maker, created the Noé bag, which was designed to carry exactly five bottles of champagne. Later it became the prototype for all modern models of the bucket bag.

Emile Maurice Hermes has managed to transform saddlebags into elegant travel accessories.

All sports bags, including the tennis bag from the Adidas 1980 and the bowling bag from the Prada 1990, were inspired by the Bolide created by Hermes in 1923. The Plume bag, created by Hermes in 1933, is based on the design of a horse blanket.

The very phrase "handbag" (handbag) came into use around the 19th century and meant a small bag for travel, and with late XIX century in Britain, this name extended to a handbag, which was worn by the handles or, later, on the shoulder.

In 1923, the first clasp was invented. And a little later - "lightning", which is still the most popular option today. Bags were made of leather and velvet, decorated with embroidery and fringe. The art deco style came into vogue. In those days, many archaeological discoveries were made, and the Egyptian style came into vogue. In addition, designers began to draw inspiration from other ethnic motives - for example, African ones. And these patterns have become part of the decor of fashionable handbags.

Another feature of the Art Deco style is the minaudier handbags made by the famous jewelry company Van Cleef & Arpels. The minaudière became an indispensable accessory for a lady from high society, which spoke of her high status. Distinctive feature minodiera are precious stones and metals that are used in its creation.

Experiments with the form began. At the end of the 30s, the spirit of surrealism and eccentricity began to be reflected in the design of bags. The designer who managed to embody this spirit better than anyone else was Elsa Schiaparelli. She came up with a black velvet handbag in the shape of a telephone with an embroidered gold disc. This idea was suggested to her by the legendary artist Salvador Dali. She also created bags in the shape of an apple, an inverted bouquet, etc.

In the 50s, small, stylish, and (due to the emergence of new technologies) often completely transparent bags came into fashion. During this period, the trend to carry small handbags was promoted by the elegant and feminine style of Christian Dior New Look. Beginning in the 1950s, everyone began to create expensive branded bags.

The 1950s became the dividing line between functional bags and bags as a status item. In 1956, Hermes launched the Kelly bag. This model existed as far back as 1892 and was used as a saddle bag, evolving into an everyday women's bag in the 1930s. A photo of the newly crowned movie star Grace Kelly, which was published in Life magazine, played a direct role in popularizing the Kelly bag. In the photo, she covered her tummy with a bag slightly rounded from paparazzi lenses. The handbag instantly became the object of desire of all fashionistas and officially received the name "Kelly Bag", thus the cult of the handbag was born.

Hermes created another iconic Birkin bag in 1981 after British actress and singer Jane Birkin spilled the contents of a Kelly bag on an airplane. They say that Jean-Louis Dumas Hermes, the chairman of the board of Hermes, sat next to him, who (thinking about what happened) three years later created a convenient bag especially for her. The new accessory was named "Birkin" and since then it has become an indispensable status symbol.

In 1955, Chanel created her famous "2.55" quilted bag. The name of the bag "2.55" reflects the month and year of creation: February 1955. Coco was very observant; she saw that the handbags, which the women carried under their arms or in their hands, did not give them freedom of action. Chanel replaced the handles of the handbag with chains of flat links or links intertwined with strips of leather. This model could already be worn on the shoulder, hands were free. The Chanel 2.55 handbag has become a model of functionality: it has pockets for a mirror, lipstick and powder compact, a special compartment closed from prying eyes and an external pocket in which you can store theater tickets and small bills.

In our dynamically developing age, the fashion for bags is changing as rapidly as for any other elements of clothing.

The bag, like the suit, and the shoes with which it appeared at about the same time, has its own interesting and diverse history, rooted in the depths of centuries.

Since the man appeared, it became necessary to carry various objects with him, so much so that his hands were free at the same time. And the first ancient man who came up with to tie to a stick animal hide bag, in order to carry food and flint in it, obviously did not suspect that he was becoming the founder of such a brilliant and necessary invention

For many hundreds of years, the appearance of bags did not differ much from its progenitor, and until now, simple shapes and designs of bags made of different materials exist as belonging to the folk, national style.

With the development of society and the emergence of commodity-money relations and money, which it is better to always have with you, appeared bags for coins... Men wore them on their belts, and women under skirts. Probably, such bags later became the prototype of modern wallets. Here is one of these bags - Egyptian belt wallet

Another "branch" of the development of bags - the so-called "Saddle bags", references to which are found in old Russian epics. Apparently, their purpose corresponded to that of modern shopping bags and suitcases. Every nation has a history of such a bag, and their design has evolved from the most primitive to complex, skillfully finished and decorated.

And yet, some researchers believe that the prototype modern bag was pocket which first appeared in Ancient Rome ... He hid in the folds of a toga and was called sinus... The Romans put money and other little things there. Unfortunately, the pocket was forgotten for several centuries and only reappeared in Europe in the 17th century.

V Ancient Greece women used small pouches resembling pouches, which later, in the 19th century, in the era of the antique costume craze, served as the prototype for the women's handbag. In general, bags in the form of pouches have been popular for a very long time.

In Europe, bags are starting to be used from the 11th century... They were small purse bags, attached to the belt, in which noble ladies and gentlemen put small change coins for the distribution of alms. These bags are named laumoniere (coiner) .

Only in the 13th century bags appeared, a bit reminiscent of modern ones. Basically, these were flat, rectangular cases for prayer books, embroidered with gold and silver threads and decorated with tassels. And the waist purse becomes an attribute, mainly, of merchants and money changers.

About in the 14-15th century the bag gains popularity not only as a functional item, but also becomes a decoration for a suit, and there is also a division into women's and men's bags. Their types are becoming more diverse: soft silk-embroidered wallets of various shapes and sizes, hung on a long cord or chain to a belt, sewn of velvet, trimmed with other valuable stones. For courtiers, the money bag was an indispensable accessory to the toilet, as were the keys attached to the belt, small folding knives and bottles of perfume.

The decoration of the handbag was an indicator of a lady's social status - the richer a woman was, the more skillfully her handbag was decorated.

16th century was the beginning of a new era in the development of bags. Appeared frame lock, the design of which has survived to this day. But fanny packs still exist

In the 17th century reappears in Europe pocket, and men no longer need to attach bags to their belt. It is believed that the first pocket appeared on the pants. Louis XIV , and he was the first to replace the bag with a pocket. And women, too, did not stand aside and "took revenge" on men with even greater variety and sophistication of their handbags. In those days, the ability to embroider was considered one of the keys to a successful marriage, so young girls competed in decorating not only clothes, but also bags.

Coming 18 century- the heyday of neoclassical fashion. Refusal of corsets, lightness in clothing, antique forms of dresses - all this did not include the wearing of waist bags. It is then that the reticule appears (from the French reticule - ladies' bag or net). It was a small, ornate, soft handbag in the shape of a drawstring pouch, which was carried in the hand on a chain or silk cord. Her invention is credited with Marquis de Pompadour ... The year of birth of the bag, which must be carried in hand, is considered to be 1790. This accessory has become a must-have companion of every self-respecting fashionista of that time. What the ladies didn’t keep in their reticules: powder, blush, perfume, smelling salts, and of course love notes. Everything is like modern women.

By the 19th century corsets are back in fashion, and then crinoline appears. It would seem why not come back to belt bags. But the bags on the belt did not become popular - the ladies loved the reticule so much that they did not refuse it. Now the reticule has increased in size and has taken on a wide variety of shapes: an envelope, a pouch with a long cord, a small elegant bag, etc.

The functional features of the reticule also differed. So, there were special handbags for visits, they were diminutive and only business cards could fit in them. The slightly larger handbags were complemented by a pocket for perfume and a mirror, a purse for change, as well as a compartment for a powder compact. With such a handbag, one could safely go for a walk. Ladies took a luxurious evening bag, which contained a fan and ballroom books, to go out. And theatrical handbags had a special compartment for binoculars or lorgnette. The materials from which such accessories were sewn were also varied: satin, tapestry, brocade. And they decorated them with beads, ribbons and tassels.

Besides the development of the reticule, in the 19th century there is such a kind of handbag as travel bag... At that time, needlework was very popular, and the travel bag was a repository of all sorts of things necessary for this. Today, a travel bag is just a travel bag.

End of 19th century was a watershed moment in the history of the reticule. People began to travel a lot and there was a need for convenient, functional and comfortable travel bags. Bags migrated from the woman's waist and wrist to the arm, and soon to the shoulder. These bags were less sophisticated, but much more practical.

In 1896 year Louis vuitton released the first collection of travel bags and since that time the ladies' bag has become not only and not so much a secular accessory as a very convenient container for a mass of things a woman needs - and not only on the road. There is also a new designation - handbag.

20th century. An age of great change. And the heyday of the bag. The world has never seen such a variety of shapes, sizes, textures and varieties. Life changed, and bags changed with it. Already in the first decade, bags appeared for work, parties, walks, dancing and even for funerals.

The first World War gives birth to huge bags for gas masks, and in contrast to this, a wide variety of theatrical bags of the most original shapes and styles. Later, towards the end of the second decade, bags-bags, tightened with braids and decorated with fringes and fluffy hanging tassels, are reborn again.

Around this time, fashion houses begin to appear that do not ignore this accessory. Designers bring to life their bright and original ideas creating unique collections of bags. And if you think that the car handbag was born at the end of the 20th century, then you are wrong. Already in the 1920s handbags appeared in the form of cars, airplanes and steamers.

A in the 1930s. simple in shape, but voluminous and durable leather bags are in vogue, and the word "reticule" takes on an ironic connotation. Bags are playing an increasingly functional role. On the other hand, with the emergence and development of fashion houses, the name of the manufacturer, that is, the brand, begins to play a great role. Today, brand bags are not only a guarantee of quality, but also an indicator of a certain status of its owner ...

The history of the bag is mysterious and confusing, we do not know the names of the inventors and the first "designers", we will never see some of their masterpieces, but today we should be grateful to our ancestors for this ingenious invention, which not only creates certain conveniences for us, but also makes our image original and unique.

Modern women cannot imagine their life without handbags, which contain everything they need during the day and even more. But the history of this ladies' accessory goes back less than three centuries. Under what circumstances did this detail of women's wardrobe appear - further in the review.

In the Middle Ages, bags did not exist today. Men wore a bag of money on their belts, and women hid the necessary little things in the folds of their dresses. In the XV-XVI centuries. pouches began to appear in women. Pious ladies put prayer books there. Over time, this accessory began to be decorated with embroidery, differing in size and shape.

In the 17th century, clothes with pockets appeared, and men no longer needed to carry bags with them. And women continued to decorate their accessory. Only now he did not hide under the folds of the dress, but was paraded as an addition to the outfit.

In the next century, pompadour handbags, named after the favorite of the French king Louis XV, Madame de Pompadour, came into fashion. These were lacy pieces of fabric that were tied with a cord in a bag with a round bottom.

The bag in its usual form appeared only in the first half of the 19th century. During the reign of Queen Victoria, whole factories for their production started working. It was then that this accessory ceased to be a piece goods. The aristocrats, of course, wanted to receive exclusive models, while the cost of a product to order was much higher.

Over time, the laces on the bags have replaced the fasteners. Lightning has already appeared in the twentieth century. Today, manufacturers of handbags offer women countless models. different color, texture, size and value.

In Amsterdam there is even Any fashionista simply must visit it.