How to remove air from a water supply pipe. Air congestion in the plumbing of a private house. Other Causes of Air Bubbles in Water

Air locks in water supply lines lead to a violation of the uniformity of the water flow, which causes water hammer and leads to rapid wear of pipes and fittings. To avoid deformation of the water supply, you need to know how to eliminate air accumulations in the cavity of the pipeline.

The main causes of air congestion

If air pockets occur, check the tightness of the connections

The appearance of bubbles in the water supply lines is associated with an internal physico-chemical reaction or penetration from the outside. In the first case, gas escapes from the water stream itself, because about 30 grams of air are dissolved in 1000 liters of water. The release of the gaseous substance is faster if the liquid flows slowly and if it is heated. It is for this reason that voids and caverns occur much more often in hot water pipes. In the second case, air from the external environment seeps into the main networks.

The main reasons for the appearance of air from the outside in the water supply system of a private house:

  • when the liquid level drops, air can be sucked in through the non-return valve;
  • fitting elements with rubber sealing parts are poorly fitted, depressurization occurs at the joints;
  • the air in the plumbing communications is not removed from the first start-up of the system.

In vertically directed pipes, air rises or is absorbed throughout the cavity. In horizontal - accumulates in the highest places, which is unfavorable for the entire system.

The destruction of air bubbles occurs at a flow speed of a quarter of a meter per second. If it is smaller, the plugs can stay in one place for a long time.

Danger of air bubbles in the pipeline

Water hammer can break the pipe

Bubbles, especially large ones, can destroy even strong line elements. The main troubles that they cause to owners of private houses:

  • They accumulate in the same areas, leading to breakage of pipe sections and adapters. They also pose a hazard to curved and winding pipe sections where air is trapped.
  • They break the water flow, which is inconvenient for the user. Faucets all the time "spit out" water, vibrate.
  • Provoke hydraulic shock.

Water hammer leads to the formation of longitudinal cracks, due to which the pipes are gradually destroyed. As time passes, the pipe breaks at the point of cracking, and the system ceases to function. Therefore, it is important to equip additional elements that allow you to quickly get rid of dangerous bubbles.

How to get rid of air in the plumbing

If air bubbles interfere with the operation of the pipeline, but the bleed elements have not yet been installed, turn off the pumping station pumping water from the well. Then open all drain taps and discharge water along with bubbles from the network. After that, connect the pressure equipment and let the water flow.

To get rid of air congestion in the water supply of a private house forever, devices for bleed and descent will help:

  • mechanical valves, such as Mayevsky's device;
  • ball valves and valves;
  • automatic air vents.

It is necessary to bleed air with the help of shut-off valves manually, which is quite laborious. Therefore, it is better to choose alternative options.

mechanical valve

The device is not complicated, but the device is able to quickly and effectively rid the line of bubbles. The principle of operation of a mechanical valve is as follows:

  1. A hollow cylinder with a lid, in which a threaded plug is mounted, is connected to the water supply by a threaded connection.
  2. A plastic ball-float is suspended inside the cylindrical box. When there is only water in the pipeline, the float rises to the plug hole, and, due to the pressure of the water flow, closes it tightly.
  3. As soon as air seeps into the device, the ball goes down and bleeds the air lock.

Devices capable of removing air are mounted in the highest, rotary and curved places of the highway - where there is a high risk of air accumulation.

Automatic air vent

Automatic devices for eliminating air from water supply networks are of three types:

  • float valves;
  • starting devices;
  • combined devices.

When choosing a drain, they look at the volume of potential traffic jams, the operating pressure in the network and the quality of the water. This data can be found in the technical manual of the device. Do not take the machine with maximum power. When working at a minimum, it is more likely to wear out.

Homemade air storage

Automatic devices do not always cope with the removal of air in country houses. Usually there are a lot of air bubbles in such lines, water flows out of the valve device.

Instead of an air vent machine, a storage tank is installed, which is a tank with a tube and a faucet.

The device can be built with your own hands. For efficient operation, the cross section of the air accumulator must be five times larger than that of the pipeline. The storage tank is mounted at the highest point of the aquifer.

When installing water supply networks in a country cottage, it is important to provide for the installation of devices for eliminating air. They protect the operating system from water hammer and rapid destruction.

Water supply pipes are designed to transport water, so air has no place here. However, air gets into the pipes. Why does this happen and why is air dangerous in the water supply systems of private houses? Is it possible to prevent its penetration and how to remove air from the water supply system?

What is dangerous air in the water supply

Why is there air in the plumbing

There are two reasons for the appearance of air in the water supply system at home:

  • Outside. Through leaky connections, air enters the pipes;
  • From within. Approximately 30 grams of air is dissolved in the flow of water passing through the pipes per 1 ton of water. Gradually the air is released. The slower the water flows, and the hotter it is, the faster the process. That is, in hot water systems, the likelihood of air jams is higher.

In the water supply systems of private houses, air appears for the following reasons:

  • when the water level drops, air can be sucked in through the check valve;
  • poorly tightened fittings with rubber seals;
  • in hot water supply systems, a cavitation process is observed: steam is formed, air bubbles collect in the water, forming voids or cavities;
  • the air in the water supply pipes remained from the first start-up of the equipment.

There is 30% more oxygen in air bubbles than in atmospheric air. This explains the high oxidizing power of air in hot water systems. Air bubbles can be of various shapes: spherical - small, no more than 1 millimeter in diameter, mushroom-shaped, oval.

In vertical pipes, bubbles rush upward or are distributed throughout the volume. In horizontal highways, they stop at the highest points, where they carry out destructive work.

When the water speed in the pipes is more than 0.5 meters per second, the bubbles move without stopping. When the speed exceeds 1 meter per second, the bubbles break into very small bubbles. It turns out like an emulsion of water and air. Air bubbles in the water supply system of a private house begin to collapse at a fluid velocity of 0.25 meters per second. If it is lower, traffic jams can stagnate in some places for quite a long time.

How to get rid of air in pipes

If there is already air in the water supply system of a private house, but it is not equipped with bleeders, you must:

  1. Turn off the pumping station.
  2. Open all drain taps, bleed water and air from the water supply system. Then the pipes are filled again.

You can remove air from the water supply system once and for all using bleed or drain devices:

  • mechanical valves such as Mayevsky valve;
  • automatic air vents;
  • ball valves;
  • valves.

Mechanical valve device for air release from the water supply system is as follows: a cylindrical box, closed with a lid on top, a thread for connecting to a water supply system from below. There is a threaded plug in the middle of the cover. A plastic ball-shaped float is suspended inside the cylinder. If there is no air in the hot water supply system, the ball rises to the hole in the plug and closes it tightly under network pressure. As soon as air enters the device, the ball moves away and the air is removed. Through the bleeders, air can enter the system, which is useful when repairing or inspecting networks and speeds up the draining of water.

Air-removing devices are installed in certain places of the water supply system: at the highest extremities, at turns or kinks. That is, where the likelihood of air accumulation is increased.

Homemade air accumulator

In rural water pipes, air often flows interspersed with water. It is difficult and inconvenient to use such a water supply system, and automation does not always cope: if there is a lot of air, water overflows in a fountain directly from the valve. Therefore, instead of an automatic bleeder for air discharge in the water supply system, air accumulator. You can make it yourself, this is a tank with a drain pipe and a tap. The diameter of the drive must be 5 times the diameter of the water pipe, then it can work effectively.

The air accumulator is installed at the highest point of the water supply, where it is convenient to bleed the air manually. Air storage tanks are widely used in multi-storey buildings in hot water systems.

Automatic air vents

Devices for removing air from plumbing systems are widely represented on the market. float valves are permanent air vents. They protect the operating system from the accumulation of air and gases. When the pressure in the system drops to atmospheric, the float valve lets air into the pipes. To eliminate the cause of the appearance of air in the water supply system of the house, a non-return valve is additionally installed. There are models of air vents that are already equipped with a check valve.

Starter air vents are used to bleed air while filling the system with water or to start air during drainage work.

Combined air vents have the properties of both previously described devices.

When choosing an air vent, the volume of air released is taken into account. This indicator can be found in the characteristics of the device. You should not select a more powerful automatic air vent. Working half-heartedly, it will wear out faster.

For the correct operation of the air vent, the working pressure in the water supply and the quality of the liquid are important. If the density of the resource is below 960 kilograms per cubic meter, floats of a special design are installed.

Video about the simplest air vent - Mayevsky valve:


In water supply networks, air accumulations disrupt the constancy and uniformity of the fluid (water) flow, and can also cause accelerated corrosion of pipelines and fittings. Therefore, it is very important to deal with the formation of air pockets and bubbles. In pressure systems, such gas either leaves the water itself, or is brought in from the atmosphere when the circuit is not completely sealed.

A correctly calculated project and its competent execution completely exclude air intake, and also do not give it a chance to accumulate in specific, permanent places (bends, turns or breaks in pipelines). As for the liquid itself, there are about 30 grams of air mixture for every ton of resource. Accordingly, the air in the water supply system is more actively released, the lower the pressure and the higher the temperature.

Causes of air locks in pipes

Such a by-product contains approximately 32% oxygen, that is, there is a third more oxidizing substance here than in the atmosphere. The freely expressed form of these clusters is not the same. Only bubbles up to 1 mm can be considered spherical. More may have an ellipsoid or mushroom topology. On vertical sections of water supply risers, air-gas inclusions rise up or remain in suspension. In horizontal pipelines, they always "stick" to the walls at the highest point, which can create conditions for active rusting of pipes.

When the water speed begins to exceed ½ m / s, air accumulations begin to move with it. If the liquid flows in the circuit faster than 1 m / s, then the air in the water supply system breaks into tiny capsules and a kind of emulsion is created from gas and liquid. Practical observations have revealed that the minimum rate of destruction of such accumulations in the water supply system is about ¼ m / s. With a lower flow rate, air pockets are able to stay for a long time in the same areas, which is undesirable.

The air-gas mixture can not only be released from the water, but also interact with it, and, at the required flow rate, break down or go outside.

To get rid of air accumulations, various bleed / bleed devices are used. These are automatic air vents, and mechanical valves (for example, the Mayevsky valve), and conventional shut-off valves (valves, ball valves). A standard regulator of this kind is made in the form of a cylindrical shell with a flat cover. In the center of the latter, a threaded plug with a hole of 3-5 mm is mounted. A float ball made of polymer or cork is placed inside the body. When there is no air in the pipes, this element tightly closes the hole in the cover under the action of network pressure. If there is air accumulation in the device, then the ball falls for a moment and allows this mixture to exit through the hole in the lid.

Air vents are also able to perform the opposite action - to introduce a certain amount of oxygen into the pressure network. This happens by accident or is necessary when the resource is quickly drained before the inspection and repair of the water supply system.

In order for the air in the water supply system to be removed in a timely manner, it is necessary to correctly install the mechanisms that discharge it at the right points. They are mounted at the highest points of pipelines, at breaks or bends, since it is there that the air-gas mixture accumulates.

aquagroup.com

Air in the hot water supply system of the house and pipes, its removal and discharge

Water supply pipes are designed to transport water, so air has no place here. However, air gets into the pipes. Why does this happen and why is air dangerous in the water supply systems of private houses? Is it possible to prevent its penetration and how to remove air from the water supply system?

What is dangerous air in the water supply

Why is there air in the plumbing

There are two reasons for the appearance of air in the water supply system at home:

  • Outside. Through leaky connections, air enters the pipes;
  • From within. Approximately 30 grams of air is dissolved in the flow of water passing through the pipes per 1 ton of water. Gradually the air is released. The slower the water flows, and the hotter it is, the faster the process. That is, in hot water systems, the likelihood of air jams is higher.

In the water supply systems of private houses, air appears for the following reasons:

  • when the water level drops, air can be sucked in through the check valve;
  • poorly tightened fittings with rubber seals;
  • in hot water supply systems, a cavitation process is observed: steam is formed, air bubbles collect in the water, forming voids or cavities;
  • the air in the water supply pipes remained from the first start-up of the equipment.

There is 30% more oxygen in air bubbles than in atmospheric air. This explains the high oxidizing power of air in hot water systems. Air bubbles can be of various shapes: spherical - small, no more than 1 millimeter in diameter, mushroom-shaped, oval.

In vertical pipes, bubbles rush upward or are distributed throughout the volume. In horizontal highways, they stop at the highest points, where they carry out destructive work.

When the water speed in the pipes is more than 0.5 meters per second, the bubbles move without stopping. When the speed exceeds 1 meter per second, the bubbles break into very small bubbles. It turns out like an emulsion of water and air. Air bubbles in the water supply system of a private house begin to collapse at a fluid velocity of 0.25 meters per second. If it is lower, traffic jams can stagnate in some places for quite a long time.

How to get rid of air in pipes

If there is already air in the water supply system of a private house, but it is not equipped with bleeders, you must:

  1. Turn off the pumping station.
  2. Open all drain taps, bleed water and air from the water supply system. Then the pipes are filled again.

You can remove air from the water supply system once and for all using bleed or drain devices:

  • mechanical valves such as Mayevsky valve;
  • automatic air vents;
  • ball valves;
  • valves.

The device of a mechanical valve for venting air from a water supply system is as follows: a cylindrical box, closed with a lid on top, a thread for connecting to a water supply system from below. There is a threaded plug in the middle of the cover. A plastic ball-shaped float is suspended inside the cylinder. If there is no air in the hot water supply system, the ball rises to the hole in the plug and closes it tightly under network pressure. As soon as air enters the device, the ball moves away and the air is removed. Through the bleeders, air can enter the system, which is useful when repairing or inspecting networks and speeds up the draining of water.

Air-removing devices are installed in certain places of the water supply system: at the highest extremities, at turns or kinks. That is, where the likelihood of air accumulation is increased.

Homemade air accumulator

In rural water pipes, air often flows interspersed with water. It is difficult and inconvenient to use such a water supply system, and automation does not always cope: if there is a lot of air, water overflows in a fountain directly from the valve. Therefore, instead of an automatic bleeder for air discharge, an air accumulator is installed in the water supply system. You can make it yourself, this is a tank with a drain pipe and a tap. The diameter of the drive must be 5 times the diameter of the water pipe, then it can work effectively.

The air accumulator is installed at the highest point of the water supply, where it is convenient to bleed the air manually. Air storage tanks are widely used in multi-storey buildings in hot water systems.

Automatic air vents

1 - constant action air vent, 2 - variable action, 3 - double action.

Devices for removing air from plumbing systems are widely represented on the market. Float valves are permanent air vents. They protect the operating system from the accumulation of air and gases. When the pressure in the system drops to atmospheric, the float valve lets air into the pipes. To eliminate the cause of the appearance of air in the water supply system of the house, a non-return valve is additionally installed. There are models of air vents that are already equipped with a check valve.

Starting air vents are used to remove air during system filling with water or to start air during drainage work.

Combined action air vents have the properties of both devices described earlier.

When choosing an air vent, the volume of air released is taken into account. This indicator can be found in the characteristics of the device. You should not select a more powerful automatic air vent. Working half-heartedly, it will wear out faster.

For the correct operation of the air vent, the working pressure in the water supply and the quality of the liquid are important. If the density of the resource is below 960 kilograms per cubic meter, floats of a special design are installed.

Video about the simplest air vent - Mayevsky valve:

strojdvor.ru

Air removal in the water supply system

Even the highest quality water supply design and subsequent installation of the system cannot be a guarantee that excess air will not enter the system during operation. As a rule, the air in the water supply system is a consequence of its insufficient tightness, but not only. In fact, there are plenty of reasons why the air in the water supply system provokes the appearance of corrosion of metal elements and additional noise during its operation.

Where does air come from in water systems

As a rule, the water circulating through the pipeline, in addition to magnesium and calcium compounds, also contains air. Filled with water, the system automatically passes air into itself. The greater the water pressure in the pipeline, the more air enters the system. By the way, this fact should be taken into account when designing water supply.

Not all materials do not pass gases. So, for example, polyethylene pipes, which are often used to install a water supply system, must necessarily have an anti-diffusion coating that prevents oxygen from entering the system.

When installing water supply, it is important to monitor the tightness of the system, especially at the connecting joints, since even the smallest leaks will cause air to enter the system.

Removing air from the water supply system: how to do it and why it is needed

Each water supply system must be equipped with an automatic air separator, which is designed to remove air during pipeline operation.

The most reliable way to remove air from a water supply system is to use a multi-level deaeration system, which involves the removal of air from individual elements of the system one by one.

Removing air from the water supply is essential for several reasons. First, air causes corrosion in the pipeline, which will cause premature failure. Secondly, an excess of oxygen in the water supply system incorrectly affects the operation of the pump, which can fail prematurely unplanned. And, finally, oxygen in the water supply system causes noise, crackles and unstable operation of its individual elements.

Did you know:

otopleniye-vodosnabzheniye.ru

How to remove air from the heating system in a private house

A private house in the city or in the countryside is certainly good!

But in order to feel comfortable inside an individual dwelling, you need to constantly take care of it.

Especially, this applies to the winter period.

For the onset of cold weather, it is necessary to prepare in advance (meaning the preparation of the heating system).

Reasons for stopping fluid circulation

Air entering the heating system prevents the circulation of the coolant.

In the end, the house will not heat up as expected, the fuel will be consumed in large quantities, and the worst thing that will happen in this case is the defrosting of the system.

Air, in the heat main of a private house, can accumulate in various places, this contributes to the cooling of both individual sections of the batteries and the riser as a whole.

Of course, the air in the heating system should not be, it does not belong there, it is necessary to remove it from there in any way known and accessible to you.

Below we will try to understand this issue and consider the main reasons for this phenomenon.

How can you tell if there is excess air in the system?

The following factors may indicate this:

Such situations, unfortunately, occur quite often.

Air lock, what does it threaten

The coolant, moving through the pipes, contributes to the formation of air pockets.

Over time, the pipes begin to vibrate and as a result, extraneous sounds can be heard:

  • crackling,
  • murmur of water.

The composition of the air includes, in addition to oxygen, carbon dioxide.

Under the influence of high temperature, sludge is formed in the pipes, and carbon dioxide creates a favorable environment for the start of the metal corrosion process.

Air in the heating line interferes with the normal operation of the circulation pump.

When the system is operating normally, the bearings on the pump shaft are constantly in the water.

As soon as a plug is formed, they undergo a "dry friction" effect. This generates heat that can damage the shaft.

Some owners of private houses say that there are often times when it is practically impossible to bleed air from the system.

After air enters the system, a cork forms, literally, after a few hours.

And what do you know about Mayevsky taps for 15 mm cast iron radiators? How and in what place to install them with your own hands, read in a useful article.

How to install a Mayevsky faucet on a heated towel rail is written here.

On the page: http://ru-canalizator.com/vodosnabzhenie/truby-i-furnitura/sshityj-polietilen.html you will learn how to install XLPE couplings.

If the heating pipes in your house are made of aluminum (read about DC welding here) and there is a liquid of a certain composition inside them, a chemical reaction will regularly occur inside the pipes, during which oxygen and hydrogen are released.

These gases contribute to the formation of congestion.

How to avoid it?

The best way to get out of this situation is to automatically vent air by means of a spool, which is mounted on batteries instead of the Mayevsky crane.

Possible removal options

  • With the help of a Mayevsky manual crane.

    In order to start work on bleeding air from radiators, you need to have at hand the appropriate tools, a basin for collecting water and a floor cloth.

    If a forced circulation pump is installed in an autonomous system, for example, in an electric titanium for boiling water, it must be turned off for the duration of the procedure.

Then, slowly, using a screwdriver, you need to turn the device counterclockwise one turn.

Air will come out of the radiator.

After that, the tap should be closed as tightly as possible.

  • The air vent is automatic.

    This is a float valve type.

    This mechanism is capable of independently releasing air from the heating system.

    Its mechanism consists of:

  • brass body,
  • float,
  • articulated arm,
  • exhaust valve.

In order to prevent liquid leakage, the devices are equipped with a screw cap.

How does the system work?

If there is no air in the system, the float prevents the exhaust mechanism from opening.

As soon as it gathers in large numbers, in the float chamber, the displacer will lower and the outlet flap will open.

After the air escapes to the outside, the buoy, under the action of the lever, will again rise to its previous position and close the outlet gate.

Air separator

Such devices, as a rule, are installed in autonomous systems of large volume.

The peculiarity of their work is the sampling of air from a liquid substance with its further transformation into bubbles and subsequent removal.

These devices are mainly produced in tandem with sludge separators.

Thus, it is possible to save space and, in addition, to catch impurities, namely:

  • dirt,
  • sand,
  • rust.

The separator consists of a metal body, in its upper part there is an air vent, and in the lower part, a valve for removing sludge.

Inside the cylinder, a special tube with a soldered metal mesh is provided.

The water from the heating system passes through it. Namely, this grid generates strong rotational flows of the coolant, which slow down and lift small air bubbles up.

In this manner, the converted air is removed to the outside by means of the air chamber. The dirt accumulated inside the batteries is removed through the drain cock, which is located below.

  • Multistage system.

    In order for you not to have problems associated with the formation of air congestion, you need to remember one very important point at the initial stage of drawing up the design documentation for an autonomous heating system.

    This is a multi-stage air exhaust system from individual groups of heaters.

  • At the same time, for them it is necessary to apply various modifications of air vents and install them in different places:

    • to bleed air from the heat exchanger of the heater, they mount an automatic type air vent, directly on the boiler or indirect heating boiler (what is it),
    • each individual collector must have its own air outlet,
    • on all radiators, it is necessary to install Mayevsky manual taps,
    • for risers, the best option is special devices that are mounted at the highest points of the system.

    It is impossible to bleed air from radiators under high water pressure.

    Otherwise, a large amount of dissolved oxygen is formed in the coolant, and then it will be much more difficult to remove air from the system.

    In order to perform all the work on bleeding air from an autonomous heating system in accordance with all the rules, you need to use the help of another person.

    It is difficult to carry out the procedure yourself.

    One person must fill the pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene for heating (price) with water and monitor the readings of the pressure gauge, and the second one, at this time, bleeds air from the radiators (until the pressure reaches two bar).

    At this point, you need to turn off the recharge.

    And while the first person is busy replenishing the system with tap water, the second one is working with Mayevsky's taps.

    How to restore heat supply

    First of all, it is necessary to accurately determine the location of the plug in the pipes (about the range of galvanized steel is written in this article).

    After this issue has been clarified, you need to find a manual or automatic valve that is closest to the problem area.

    Then, having slightly opened the tap, we bleed the air through this mechanism.

    Not always the standard method turns out to be effective (video on how to bleed air through Mayevsky's faucet. look here).

    If all of the above methods turned out to be ineffective, you can try to squeeze out the plug by increasing the pressure and temperature of the coolant in the system (the indicators should be close to the maximum).

    The plug, moved from its place, enters the relief valve.

    If these actions were unsuccessful, you will have to use the nearest detachable connection. The work must be done very carefully, if you neglect the safety rules, you can get burned and flood the whole house with hot water.

    The accumulated air in the heating system with the elevator unit of a private house can be removed by draining the water through the expansion tank.

    The cork will come out on its own if the water in the circuit is brought to a boil.

    conclusions

    So, we have found out the following, in order for the heating system of a private house to function efficiently enough, it is necessary to competently perform all installation work and properly operate the main.

    Also, it is necessary to ensure that air does not accumulate inside the system and traffic jams do not form.

    To bleed air, you need to use special equipment and devices.

    Only in this way you can create comfortable conditions for living in a private house, and your heating system will work flawlessly.

    How to bleed air in the heating system of a private house, see the video.

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How to expel air from the heating system in a private house using a pump

After completing the installation of the heating system, it is necessary to fill the pipelines with water or another type of coolant. At this stage, each user is faced with the question of operating the heating with maximum performance. Poor-quality heating of residential premises occurs due to airing of pipes, which sometimes leads to freezing of the coolant. Next, we will get acquainted with the reasons that lead to air formations and methods to remove air from heating.

Why do air pockets form?

At the moment, there are several reasons for the formation of air congestion in the heating system:

  • incorrect filling of the circuit with coolant;
  • non-compliance of plumbers with norms for the slope and bending of pipelines;
  • leaky connection of individual units or heating devices, which can lead to the repair of the heating system;
  • absence or malfunction of air vents;
  • to repair risers or replace valves, it is better to use the services of a master. When dismantling and installing additional devices on your own, air can enter the system.

Important! When refueling the heating circuit, a certain amount of oxygen enters the pipelines along with cold water. The air concentration increases when the coolant is heated, which can cause the formation of an air lock.

How air affects heating

Areas with accumulated air lead to uneven heating of the surface of the radiators. The cold part of the heater indicates the accumulation of gases, there is no coolant in this place. The batteries do not heat up well and will not be able to heat the room even when pumping the coolant with a pump.

Many people know what pressure should be in a closed-type heating system, but when air locks form, the user may hear gurgling, crackling or other extraneous noises. The air that gets into the pipes consists of certain ratios of carbon dioxide, as well as oxygen. These components take part in the formation of carbon dioxide. High coolant temperatures turn this component into a deposit on the walls of pipes and radiators. In addition, carbon dioxide can cause destruction of the metal.

Important! The presence of air in autonomous heating in a private house leads to the failure of the circulation pump. Without contact of the impeller with liquid, the bearings of the device are in dry friction, which negatively affects the operation of the unit.

Varieties of air vents

The Mayevsky crane helps to remove the airlock. This small brass device allows you to air the circuit with your own hands without calling the master. The main parts of the valve are:

  • conical screw.
  • metal case.

The parts of the faucet fit snugly together, which allows you to keep the pressure of the coolant. The air from the batteries exits through a special hole in the Mayevsky tap. The air vent is opened:

  • fingers;
  • special key;
  • screwdriver.

Important! The start of heating in the apartment after installation must include de-airing without fail.

To remove an air lock using a Mayevsky crane, you must:

  1. Turn off the circulation pump;
  2. Turn the valve counterclockwise with a screwdriver and wait for the air to bleed.
  3. When water starts to flow out of the hole, the device is closed.

To bleed air from the heating system, you can do without a Mayevsky tap. Some users install a float-valve type device on the circuit, which independently releases accumulated gases. The automatic air vent consists of the following components:

  • brass body;
  • Exhaust valve;
  • articulated arm;
  • float.

Shut-off screw caps help prevent leakage of coolant in the specified device. An air lock is formed in a place where there should be a pressure drop in the heating system. If there is no accumulation of gases in the system, the automatic type air vent float closes the valve. When oxygen appears, the float drops and opens the valve, which leads to air bleeding.

If there are no Mayevsky taps, an air separator will help get rid of the accumulated gases. Such devices are mounted in a large circuit of an autonomous heating system. The separator not only extracts high-quality air, but also removes particles of rust, dirt and sand. The device consists of a cylinder and a sludge discharge valve. A grid is mounted inside the tank, which forms a swirl of the coolant, which helps to remove small air bubbles. Accumulated dirt particles are removed through the drain cock.

You can remove air from the heating system yourself in several ways. If this does not work, leave a request on the site and our specialists will come to your aid. For advice on any questions related to heating, call the number

master-santekhnik.ru

Good afternoon. I want to understand the reason for the malfunctioning of the water supply in the country. Water is supplied from the well by a pump to the house. In the house, there is a check valve in front of the hydraulic tank. After the hydraulic tank, the filter and then the water heater. Next is the sink. When I open the mixer with cold water, the water flows evenly, and if I also open hot water, then at first it flows well and a few seconds later it starts to “spit” a little. Somewhere it sucks air .. At the same time, there is no leak, the pressure in the system does not drop !! How to solve the problem ?? Help with advice, please .. Yuri

Hello Yuri.

It’s a pity you didn’t indicate what kind of “hydraulic tank” you have installed - a detached membrane, as part of a water supply station or open. It is also not known what type of water heater you are using: electric storage, electric instantaneous or gas. And what is "starts to spit a little"? "A little" is how? Since you decided not to indulge our experts with an abundance of information about the features of your cold and hot water supply system, it is not a fact that our answer, compiled on the basis of fragmentary data, will satisfy you. Let's try to go logically:

  1. If the "hydraulic tank" is a closed membrane tank, in the area where there is increased pressure, air leakage cannot occur. In the presence of leaks, there would be no suction, but rather a leak. The area where air can enter the system is the supply hose if you have a surface pump installed. Theoretically, the submersible pump can also pick up air if the water mirror periodically drops to the level of water intake. Safety automatic switches off the pump before the system is filled with air, the level rises again. It is unlikely that everything coincides so exactly, but it cannot be ruled out. However, in the case of suction, air would also enter cold water. So, this is unlikely to be the reason. Unless an air trap is installed on the cold water line.
  2. Air can enter the pipes if the check valve installed in front of the “hydraulic tank” does not hold. Water in the hose flows under its own weight into the well, negative pressure is formed and air is captured somewhere (for example, in an open mixer). The probability of this is small, but still.
  3. Air can get into the hot water supply if you have not a membrane, but an open storage tank installed. The pressure is low, the supply to the water heater is separate and somewhere on the way to it there is a leak in the pipe. It can also “jump” the level in an open tank if the filling valve does not always work.
  4. If air does not enter the system from the outside, then it is formed inside. Well water contains dissolved oxygen and other gases. When heated, they are released in the form of bubbles. In this case, the liquid does not have to boil, the transition of oxygen from the dissolved to the gaseous state occurs even at a temperature slightly above room temperature, an intensive process begins at 50-60 ºС. The higher the temperature, the more active gas formation occurs. If you have a storage water heater installed, during the heating process, air may accumulate in the upper part of it.

There is a space at the top of the water heater where the hot water extraction pipe does not reach. Under certain conditions, ten liters of compressed air can accumulate there, which makes the mixer “spit” for some time after opening the hot water tap.

The amount of air will be greater if the water heater is installed at the top of the water supply. Another reason that increases the rate of gas accumulation is the incorrect operation of the automatic heating of the storage electric boiler against the background of a malfunction of the boiler safety valve. By the way, if tap water has a high carbonate hardness, after two or three years the valve “overgrows” with salt deposits. There is water in the tube going to the mixer. After opening the hot water valve, it drains, the system captures water, the tap “spits”. If a similar phenomenon occurs after you have not used hot water for a while and after a couple of minutes the flow is restored, we are on the right track. Another sign is too hot water. Disconnect the boiler from the power supply and try to spill unheated water. There is no air - it means that the reason why the tap “spits” has been established.

What to do? First, replace the safety valve and reduce the heating temperature. It did not help - to install an air blower at the top of the system, preferably placing it on a U-shaped outlet (jumper), where gases can accumulate without blocking the flow.

An automatic air blower is more expensive than a conventional one, but saves time and nerves.

  1. If the mixer "spits" constantly, check the aerator, just unscrew it from the spout.
  2. Some filters, more specifically water treatment systems, can aerate the water. The simplest mesh filters are not capable of this, but if the installation is difficult, try to bypass the water for a while or at least remove the cartridges.
  3. It is possible to release gases during an electrochemical reaction. This may be due to the direct contact of various metals, such as copper and aluminum. Metal fittings must be connected through rubber gaskets, FUM tape, tow.

The correct scheme for installing an electric storage water heater. Do you have a safety and non-return valve installed?

stroy-aqua.com

Simple self-diagnosis of typical malfunctions of the hydraulic accumulator of the water supply system of a private house.

For a long time I had suspicions about the improper operation of the plumbing system in my house. Yes, all hands did not reach to do this closely. Well, everything seems to be working, why then climb there? Here, perhaps, the first question comes out. And what kind of external signs should make the homeowner pay especially close attention to his water supply? sudden changes from cold to hot and vice versa,

  • sometimes cold water comes from a faucet with normal pressure, and sometimes it’s not very cheerful, but “with a lazy” it somehow flows,
  • more often than usual you hear that the pump of the pumping station turns on (for example, a simple way, if you have a 50-liter hydraulic accumulator installed and after two flushes of water in a row with a toilet bowl, the pump already turns on - it means you have problems - you need to understand and repair).

These are the first signs that it’s time for the homeowner to roll up their sleeves again and start figuring out what exactly is wrong in their water supply. Well, the first step is quite simple and accessible even to our beautiful half. We open the only tap in the whole house - a cold tap ( without admixture of hot!) water. We watch how water flows from the tap until it starts (hear this) the water supply pump. They heard that the pump started, the tap was closed, waited (heard again) until the pump turned off. That's it, now your accumulator is full. We take a 5-liter vessel (for example, an empty bottle from under the water "Shishkin Forest") and, with all the taps in the house closed, using only one tap of cold water (with no hot admixture!) Fill this vessel . The goal is to find out exactly how many liters of cold (without hot!) Water must be drained to make the pump turn on. (Next, I give all the volumes for a 50 liter hydraulic accumulator - I have just such a one). Op, they took one vessel - 5 liters, drained it, but in the second run they didn’t take even half of the vessel, and the pump had already turned on. Thus, draining only 7 liters of cold water from a full hydraulic accumulator made the pump turn on. This is a very small volume; in a normally operating such system, not 7, but all 15 liters would have to be drained before starting the engine. So let's figure it out further. Armed with a tire gauge, thus, with which you check the air pressure in the tires of your car (buy yourself another one, exclusively for the boiler room), we approach the hydraulic accumulator of your water supply pumping station. We find the nipple thread on the accumulator (often closed with a round plastic cap, which you just need to twist until it unscrews). We measure (as in a car tire) the air pressure in the accumulator. There are options here. If you are trying to measure the air pressure and water splashes from the accumulator nipple, this is the problem of the "leaky pear" of the accumulator. You'll have to tinker. You will either have to buy a new pear or (which is much less reliable) try to repair the old one. If no water is pouring out, but the air pressure gauge does not show either (shows 0, or shows less than 1.4 bar). If it shows less than 1.4 bar. power supply of the pump, open somewhere (where it is convenient) a cold water tap, wait until the water stops flowing from the open tap (the water pressure gauge at the pumping station will show 0). for the boiler room) and download. Get ready for the fact that you will have to pump for a long time and hard - the volume of the air cavity of the accumulator is large. We pump and monitor how much we pumped up on the pressure gauge that is built into your pump. Pumped up to 1.4 bar. Stop. You can't get too carried away here! We removed the pump from the nipple. Let's check ourselves by poking a tire pressure gauge into the accumulator nipple - it should show a value close to 1.4 bar. Now turn on the power supply to the pump and wait until it pumps the full accumulator with water and turns off automatically. already in a hydraulic accumulator completely filled with water:

  • if the tire pressure gauge shows you "a lot" - noticeably higher than 1.4 bar, well, for example, 2.7 bar, then write down this result and consider that you may have gotten off with a slight fright. Further, just regularly, once a day, for three days, follow the tire pressure gauge for the air pressure in the accumulator and, if it has become as large as the one you wrote down. You can relax, check the pressure on a full accumulator once a month and, as it has decreased, pump it up to the same value that was recorded (however, once a year, drain all the water again and make the air pressure 1.4 bar in an empty accumulator).
  • but if the tire pressure gauge again showed you 0 (well, or much less than 1.4 bar), then we were out of luck. This means that the air cavity of the accumulator lets air through - “the case is not tight.” The accumulator simply does not work as it should. Here you will have to tinker with this further.

  • Why does water from a well come with air?

A water well is a convenient alternative to autonomous water supply in the private sector. Having a number of advantages, the design requires not only proper installation, equipping with a filtration system, but also timely cleaning, as well as prevention and washing. Due to non-fulfillment of at least one point, violations in the operation of the entire station are possible. For example, often water from a well comes with air. The life of the pump, water quality and much more depend on the timely identification of the causes and their elimination.

Before you start clarifying the issue, it is important to know: pumps are installed depending on the diameter of the well! For dimensions of 100 mm a submersible pump is suitable, smaller diameters require a circular or plunger pump.

What is cavitation? This is a violation of the continuity of the liquid flow, otherwise - filling the water with bubbles. Cavitation occurs in those areas where the pressure drop reaches a critical level. The process is accompanied by the formation of voids in the flow, the release of bubble formations of air that appear due to vapors and gases released from the liquid. Being in the area of ​​reduced pressure, the bubbles can grow and collect into large hollow caverns, which are carried away by the fluid flow and, in the presence of high pressure, collapse without a trace, and in the conditions of an ordinary household well, they often remain and it turns out that the pump during operation pumps air bubbles from wells without producing the required amount of water.

The identification of the cavitation zone is sometimes impossible due to the lack of special instruments, but it is important to know that such a zone can be unstable. If the disadvantage is not eliminated, then the consequences can be devastating: vibration, dynamic effects on the flow - all this leads to a breakdown of the pumps, because each device is characterized by a specified value of cavitation reserve. Otherwise, the pump has a minimum pressure, within which the water that has entered the device retains its density properties. With changes in pressure, caverns and air voids are inevitable. Therefore, the selection of the pump should be carried out depending on the volume of water needed to meet economic and domestic needs.

The destruction of air bubbles occurs only when they are carried by the flow to the area of ​​high pressure, which is accompanied by small hydraulic shocks. The frequency of impacts leads to the appearance of a hissing sound, by which it is possible to determine the presence of air in the well.

Elimination of cavitation


What can be done to avoid the appearance of air in the well and the entry of water with bubbles:

  1. Replacing the suction pipe of small diameter with a larger one;
  2. Moving the pump closer to the storage tank.

Attention! When moving the pump, observe the established regulations: the distance from the pump to the tank must not be less than 5 diameters of the suction pipe!

  1. Reduce the pressure of the suction element by replacing it with a smooth pipe, and the valve can be replaced with a gate valve, and the check valve can be removed altogether;
  2. The presence of a large number of turns in the suction pipe is unacceptable, they must be reduced or the bends of a small radius of turns should be replaced with large ones. The easiest way is to align all the bends in the same plane, and sometimes it is easier to replace rigid pipes with flexible ones.

If all else fails, you will have to increase the pressure on the suction side of the pump by raising the level of the tank, lowering the axis of the pump installation or connecting a booster pump.

Note that all manipulations are shown based on a large amount of water consumption and the installation of powerful pumping devices. And, it is important that cavitation can only occur at a depth below 8 meters. It is with such a length of all elements and the presence of high pressure in the pipes that the liquid passes into a gaseous state and water goes with air.

Other causes of air bubbles in the well and ways to eliminate them


When using a well to pump out small volumes of water or seasonal operation of a structure, there are several possible causes and ways to eliminate them. So, why does the pump pump not only water, but also air:

  1. Air mass suction in the suction section. At the same time, water with air goes for a long time, but the problem is “treated” only by the complete replacement of the pipeline and all related elements. You can check by removing the pipeline from the well and pumping water, for example, in the bathroom.
  2. Small filling of the aquifer with large pumping. Downsizing or drilling a new well would be the best solution. It is only important not to break through to the former lean aquifer, so as not to get water with air from the well again.
  3. Pump failure, when the stuffing box seal is fragile, as a result of which air bubbles are in the discharge chamber and water goes with air. You will have to disassemble the device yourself or it is easier to give it to a repair shop.

Hydraulic systems are akin to electric ones - the laws are the same here. Understanding the problem of why the pumping station pumps air is sometimes possible only with a series of technical measures. And if the proposed options for identifying the problem and eliminating the deficiencies did not help and the water also comes with air, it is better to turn to professionals servicing the pumps. The cost of the service is from $50, but you will be spared the problem and will be able to find out exactly why your pump does not pump water the way you would like.

I'll try and describe my problem, maybe someone has some thoughts ...
I have a pumping station in the bath, it has its own check valve and a small hydraulic accumulator at the inlet. Water intake from a well with a length of about 20 meters. The well has its own check valve and strainer. Automation at the pumping station turns on the pump at 1.5 atm and turns it off at 4. Sometimes there are problems with the fact that the pump cannot bring the pressure up to those same 4 atm, breaking down somewhere at 3.8-3.9 and after a certain number of attempts it crashes with an error. I can't figure out the pattern of this phenomenon. It can take off once a month, maybe 2 times a day. After a long period of inactivity, there are no problems, rather during operation. There is enough water in the well both in terms of level and debit. The taps do not "spit" with water, but the airing of the pump and the system periodically occurs. I struggle with this matter simply by passing the water with a pump through the discharge for a couple of minutes (a tap immediately after the pump). At the same time, you can hear that air is also escaping from the system.
I can’t rule out completely possible problems with the check valve in the well (I can’t go down there right now ...), but by indirect signs this is unlikely, because after a long idle time of the pump, the problem is not observed. Rather, it looks like air leaks during pump operation at limiting modes (at the end when the vacuum is maximum) through possible leaks in the connections (for example, through the same heating cable gland).
In general, I think to postpone the search for the cause until next season, but now I want to try to fight the consequences ...
Here I must say that my water supply system is not quite "feng shui" ...
DHW is prepared in a flow way through an indirect heat exchanger. There is a 500 liter heat accumulator tank, in which two consecutive spirals of corrugated stainless steel (I don’t remember 18 or 20 mm) heat the water.
In this regard, the cold water and hot water systems are not separated by anything (there are no non-return valves).
Moreover, the system has another hydraulic accumulator (20 liters, I don’t remember exactly) common for cold and hot (because there is no safety valve) water and stands practically at the inlet to the heat exchanger. The air pressure in it is now about 2 atm.
Such a scheme was not made from a great mind, but simply in haste, because not all the wiring is finished yet (the attic floor is just drowned out for now). However, everything works quite normally for both cold and hot water. This second hydraulic accumulator allows, on the one hand, not to pull the pumping station when flushing the toilet, and on the other hand, to do without a safety valve and pressure surges in the hot water supply. Specially checked this moment. The pressure in the system is 4 atm., I heat the heat accumulator to 65C - no pressure gauge changes occur.
So, almost everything is introductory, now I will try to reason ...
1. Since the problem occurs sporadically, it means that the power of the pumping station in normal operation is sufficient to create the necessary pressure in my system (4 atm).
2. An episodic shortage of 0.1-0.2 atm indicates the appearance of a small amount of air (a compressible medium) in the system, which the pump can no longer overcome, continuing to suck air into the system.
3. The absence of "spitting" from the taps indicates that there are no air jams in the highways themselves.

Where can air hide and how to deal with it? .. As an option - in the second accumulator (all the more so since its connection itself is somewhat clumsy, then I'll take a picture).
How to fight? Increasing / decreasing air pressure in the accumulator, installing an air separator in front of it.
Thanks to all who have read it ... I would be grateful if someone expresses their thoughts.



 
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