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Tomatoes in soil care. Growing tomatoes in open ground: all the secrets. Planting tomato seedlings in open ground

Let's continue the tomato theme. After reading, I hope you learned something new about tomatoes, the variety of varieties of this wonderful plant, how to prepare tomato seeds and the timing of their planting, and caring for seedlings.

In this article we will discuss how to grow an excellent tomato crop in our summer cottages, provided that the plants are planted in open ground.

So, the topic of our article today is

Preparing the soil for tomato princes

For a rich harvest, we need, first of all, to find a good place for our pets. Tomato plants love indirect sun and will thrive in sunny but sheltered areas.

• The best predecessors of tomatoes are carrots, cucumbers and onions. And if you plant your favorites next to strawberries, both crops will benefit from this. The yield of tomatoes and aromatic berries will increase several times, and the fruits will become larger.

But the places where potatoes, eggplants and peppers grew should be avoided by tomatoes. Pathogens of various diseases can accumulate in these areas.

Our country is huge. And the quality of the soil differs in all regions (even in different fields). And the tomato princes are very demanding and whimsical to the soil. Therefore, we need to find out the quality of the soil in our garden.

◊ Checking the acidity. You can purchase a test to determine the pH level at any garden department. The lower the indicator, the higher the acidity. Neutral ground has an index of 7.0.

• Tomatoes need soil with an acidity level of 6.0 to 7.0.

If the level is lower, add lime to the soil (0.5-0.8 kg per sq.m.), if the level is higher, add sulfur in the same amount.

◊ Assess the amount of nutrients. Analysis for the presence of microelements can be ordered and carried out in special laboratories. This is very necessary information for gardeners.

It is necessary to ensure that the cultivation of tomatoes in open ground occurs without losses and delights with a rich harvest.

Nitrogen	Potassium	Phosphorus
Affects the health of tomato leaves. If there is a lack of it, the tomato will have yellowed, limp leaves.	This substance gives tomatoes strength and health. It increases the immunity and resistance of plants to diseases. With a lack of potassium, tomatoes grow poorly and look stunted.	Helps strengthen the root system and regulates seed formation. If it is deficient, tomatoes produce diseased, unripe fruits.
If there is a lack of nitrogen, add fishmeal, compost or inorganic substances to the soil: calcium nitrate, ammonium sulfate or sodium nitrate.	To compensate for the lack of potassium, supplement the soil with sand, granite dust or wood ash (a bucket per sq.m.).	To increase phosphorus levels, add superphosphates, compost and bone meal to the soil.

♦ Compost– ideal for soil preparation. It also attracts many earthworms, which do an excellent job of loosening the soil and, in turn, attract and create favorable conditions for the parthenogenesis of beneficial bacteria.

Preparing the ground should begin in the autumn after thoroughly removing all previous plant debris. We dig up the area chosen for the plants to a depth of 30 cm.

• Autumn soil feeding. To a depth of 20-25 cm we apply organic (bird droppings, humus, peat or compost 5 kg per sq. m.) or mineral fertilizers (potassium salt 20-25 g, superphosphate 40-50 g per sq. m.).
• Spring fertilizing of the soil. To a depth of 15-20 cm we add a mixture of bird droppings 1 kg, wood ash 1.5 kg and ammonium sulfate 20-25 g per square meter. m. Or mineral fertilizing (superphosphate 55 g, ammonium nitrate 20 g and potassium chloride 15 g per sq. m).

For successful growing tomatoes The ground needs to be carefully dug up 2-3 times (preferably with a pitchfork) and harrowed. Tomato plants and humus will like it.

But it is better to refuse manure (tomatoes, having tasted manure fertilizers, begin to actively grow tops, while the growth of fruits fades).

• If the soil does not warm up enough, you can cover the area with black film or plastic. Black color perfectly attracts the light of the sun and absorbs it, warming the soil underneath.

On the prepared site, 5-6 days before planting, we form ridges (width 100-120 cm, height 15-20 cm) in the north-south direction. This will help to achieve uniform illumination of the seedlings.

Maintain a distance between beds of about 70 cm (for all varieties).

Growing tomatoes in open ground

As soon as the end of spring frosts comes (usually the end of May - beginning of June), we will plant young tomatoes in open ground.

It is ideal to carry out this procedure on a cloudy, gloomy day. If the weather is sunny outside, wait until evening.

Plant young shoots in two rows with a distance between them for classic planting:

• For low-growing trunks and determinate species (row spacing 40-50 cm, between plants 30-35 cm).
• For medium-sized ones (row spacing 50-60 cm, between tomatoes 40-45 cm).

Square nest planting

This method will greatly facilitate the care of our tomatoes (it will become easier to loosen them), and will create the most favorable living conditions for the plants themselves: improve the absorption of nutrients and increase illumination. As a result, we will achieve a good harvest. We plant according to this scheme:

• Standard and determinate varieties: 70x70 cm, 2-3 plants for one nest.
• Early ripening species with a spreading bush: 70x70 cm, a pair of plants in one hole.
• Mid- and late-ripening: 70x70 cm, 1 bush in one nest. Or 90x90 cm (100x100 cm) - 2 plants each.

Tape-nest planting

This method of growing tomatoes in open ground makes it possible to place more bushes in one area. Crowded in one hole, it becomes easier for them to withstand bad weather conditions.

As they grow, weaker shoots are thinned out.

• With this method, irrigation furrows are cut every 140 cm. Plants are planted on both sides of the furrows (from a row of 60 cm, in the row itself after 70 cm, a pair of bushes in one nest).

Focus on the final growth of the bush. Ideally, for good development, you need to provide one tomato with about 0.3 square meters. m.

On average for a plot of 100 sq. m. you will need approximately 340-420 early tomatoes, and 240-290 late and medium varieties.

Let's start landing

First of all, you need to thoroughly moisten the soil in pots or boxes with seedlings. This will help you easily remove them from the seed container and prevent accidental damage to the root system.

Prepared holes for growing tomatoes in open ground should have a depth of 10-15 cm.

We water them (a bucket of water for 8-10 holes) and apply mineral fertilizers mixed with humus (proportion 1x3).

1. Turn the container with the seedlings over, wrap your middle and index fingers around the tomato stem and remove it from the container.
2. Tear off the leaves of the seedlings, leaving only 2-3 leaves on top (this will stimulate root growth).
3. Place the plant with a ball of root soil vertically in the hole and sprinkle with compost. In this case, the tomato stem should remain open. Only the roots or soil pot are placed in the ground.
4. Press the soil firmly around the plant and cover the compost with dry soil.
5. After planting, mulch the soil (cut, slightly wilted grass, sawdust, straw or newspaper leaves are suitable for this). The mulch layer should be about 10 cm high.

When planting tomatoes in the ground is finished, we will leave them alone for 8-10 days. During this period, the plants take root and become accustomed to the new location.

There is no need to water them yet. But you need to be prepared for frost. To do this, immediately after planting, we will cover our young tomatoes with transparent film.

It will remain until the threat of frost disappears (for the middle zone this usually happens by June 5-10). You can make holes in the film with a diameter of 10 cm. This will reduce the risk of late blight infection.

After 10 days, we water the seedlings and at the same time plant a new one in place of the dead one. The first hilling when growing tomatoes in open ground can be done two weeks after planting the seedlings.

In the future, we will hill up the plants as they grow.

How to tie tomatoes

Place pegs 50-80 cm high above the rows with planted tomatoes (depending on the height of the bush).

The pegs are placed on the north side, retreating about 10 cm from the stem. We will tie each bush to them using a sponge or twine.

Plants begin to be tied up when they grow 4-5 true leaves. In total, 3-4 garters are produced during the tomato growth period.

Plants are tied only under the cluster with fruits. This allows them to be well lit and receive more heat and sunlight, which speeds up and increases productivity.

The fruits, without being in contact with the ground, are less susceptible to attacks by pests and are better protected from diseases.

Trellis method

For medium-sized, large-fruited and richly fruiting plants, it is best to use trellises rather than garters.

This method of growing tomatoes in open ground makes it easier to care for the plant, harvest the crop, and also extend the fruiting period of tomatoes. Plants are less likely to develop fungal infections. This method allows you to use your garden plot more efficiently (especially when it is small in size).

To do this, install pillars in rows about 1.2-1.5 m high (the more often the posts are driven in, the stronger the structure will be).

Drive nails into the posts every 20-25 cm. Attach horizontal slats to them using twine or wire.

When the tomato seedlings begin to grow (this will happen about two weeks after planting), carefully tie the plant’s brush to the slats with soft twine or cord. Continue tying them up every 15-20 cm as they grow.

• This method is ideal for growing tall tomatoes in greenhouses (we will talk in more detail about caring for greenhouse giants in another article).

With the trellis method, further care of the plants will be very simple: timely tying of fruit-bearing shoots and their stepsons to the slats.

Care for growing tomatoes in open ground

Operation	How often to do	Adviсe
Growing tomatoes (or shaping)	It is necessary to remove side shoots constantly, starting from an early age of the plant. By the time the fruits ripen, there should be no more stepchildren.	They must be removed before the shoots reach 3-5 cm in length. It's best to do this in the morning. In southern, sunny regions, you don’t have to remove the stepsons completely, just don’t tie them up. But in the north, this operation is mandatory (leave only 2-3 stems for each bush). This procedure cannot be performed in extreme heat.
Top dressing tomato	Once every 10 days. The first time we feed tomatoes is two weeks after planting.	The first feeding is a solution of mullein (1x10) or chicken manure (1x20). We re-fertilize with mineral fertilizers (nitrophoska 60g + water 10l). Quantity: before flowering, 1 liter for each bush, after flowering, 2-5 liters.
Watering tomatoes	Abundant but infrequent watering.	In spring and early summer, water your tomatoes once a week. In warm summertime, limit yourself to one watering every 2-3 days. Water the bushes at the roots in the evening.
Spraying	We spray every week, alternating liquid compositions. The first spraying immediately after planting in open ground (with Bordeaux mixture).	Alternate Bordeaux mixture and homemade onion tincture.

How to plant tomatoes. When removing stepchildren, do not pull them out, but carefully break them out by grasping them with your index finger and thumb. Gently pull them sideways and break them off.

If they have grown too large, cut them off with a sharp knife or razor. First of all, get rid of the stepsons growing under the trusses (otherwise the tomato may lose its ovary).

For a better harvest when growing tomatoes in open ground, pinch off the tops of all fruit-bearing shoots at the end of summer.

Also remove excess flower clusters where fruits have failed to form.

Preparation of Bordeaux mixture. Suppress quicklime (100 g) in water and add water (about 5 l). In another container, dissolve copper sulfate (100 g) in a small amount of hot water and add 5 liters of water.

Then pour the vitriol solution into the slaked lime. The correct liquid will have a sky blue tint.

Just in case, measure the alkaline reaction with an indicator (Bordeaux mixture should be neutral or slightly alkaline).

• Any iron objects can be used for testing. If the metal is covered with a layer of copper, you have made too acidic a solution. You need to add more lime. But do not overdo it, otherwise the liquid will lose its beneficial qualities.

Preparation of onion tincture. Grind the onion and garlic with a meat grinder (100 g each). Transfer the mixture into a 3-liter glass container and fill it ¾ with water. Close and leave for 3 days.

Shake it periodically. At the same time, pour bird droppings (200 g) in a plastic bucket with water and leave to infuse. Before use, both mixtures are mixed and filtered.

For fertilizing when growing tomatoes in open ground, it is useful to use fermented nettle and ash.

Also, feed the plants with microelements a couple of times during the fruiting season (crush 5 tablets and stir them in ½ liter of water, then add another 10 liters of water). Consumption 1 liter for each bush.

Banana fertilizer. We are preparing a natural, very healthy fertilizer, enriched with calcium and phosphorus. This product is made from banana peels.

1. Line the oven tray with food foil. Place banana peel on top, outer side down (to prevent it from sticking). Place the tray in the oven.
2. After frying and cooling, grind the peel into flour and place in a sealed bag.

Sprinkle banana flour on the soil near the roots of the plants once every two weeks.

To get an excellent harvest of tomatoes, you need to do more than just water and feed them correctly. They need pollination.

Pollination of tomatoes

Tomato is a self-pollinating plant. When growing tomatoes in open ground, these plants create a lot of high-quality pollen, which is also enough for neighboring flowers.

To help with pollination, attract helper insects (bees, bumblebees).

To do this, plant bright annual honey plants between the tomatoes: rapeseed, coriander, basil and mustard. By the way, these crops also improve the taste of the fruits themselves.

But it is not always possible for a tomato to self-pollinate. There can be many reasons:

• Temperature drop at night (below +13° C). Under such conditions, deformation of the anther occurs.
• The daytime temperature is too high (above +30-35° C). When it's hot, flowers fall off and pollen grains die.
• Peculiarities of the structure of the pistil of some large-fruited varieties (it protrudes outward and pollen does not fall on the stamens). Or the pestle is too wide.

In such cases, we need to help our tomatoes pollinate. You can tilt the buds with the protruding pistil down and lightly shake the flower. Or lightly tap on a trellis or flowering brush.

• The best time for artificial pollination is 10-14 hours, at a temperature of +22-27° C. Ideal air humidity is no more than 70%. Repeat the pollination procedure after 4 days.

Immediately after pollination, water the tomatoes or spray the flower with water (so that the pollen sticks to the pistil). The flowers that appear last are usually empty and underdeveloped. It is better to remove them immediately.

Secrets of growing tomatoes. An amazing tomato has one feature - it is completely unpretentious.

And it can bear fruit even if your care is limited only to watering and weeding.

But the tomato is very responsive. And the more carefully you take care of your plants, the more harvest they will give you.

But don't overdo it in your quest to please him. The golden rule for growing tomatoes is everything is good in moderation!

Caring for tomatoes should be within reasonable, competent limits!

Now, my dear friends, you know how to grow our precious tomatoes in open ground. Next, we are going to learn about growing tomatoes and the possible difficulties () when growing them.

I also suggest watching a short video with some useful tips for growing tomatoes.

See you soon, dear friends!

Agree, just growing a tomato bush is a fairly simple task, especially since this plant is not very whimsical. But you can get a decent harvest of this vegetable by mastering certain skills and knowledge. There are many techniques to speed up maturation. Growing tomatoes in open ground is perhaps one of the main techniques for increasing productivity and obtaining ripe vegetables in the early stages.

Planting tomatoes

Seedlings are planted in open ground after a stable temperature has been established. The plant grows well in a flat, sunny place. The distance between the bushes depends on the variety and how the plant is planned to be formed. Tomatoes with short stems (determinate) are usually early-ripening varieties. They are planted in a row, the distance between bushes should be 60 cm, and the inter-row distance should be 70 cm. Tall seedlings (indeterminate) are placed so that the distance between bushes is 70 cm, and between rows 90 cm. All tall seedlings belong to late-ripening varieties, which are characterized by high productivity and have a bush height of up to 1.5-2 meters. When planting in a hole, you must add organic fertilizer and up to two liters of water. The plant is well buried, covered with soil, which is then compacted well.

Planting in the ground, taking into account the above requirements, however, like planting tomatoes in open ground, is one of the techniques that allows you to increase productivity.

Care during cultivation

During the growth of tomatoes, it is necessary to perform certain procedures, which include: watering, hilling, weeding, tying, pinching, protection from pests.

In order for the bush to take root well, it is necessary to ensure sufficient soil moisture in the first week after planting. After the seedlings have finally taken root, watering is carried out once every ten days, constantly destroying weeds.

For the full development of the root system, it is necessary to loosen the soil and carry out hilling. Tying the stems and pinching tomatoes in open ground are the most effective methods for accelerating the ripening of fruits.

Tying is carried out several times during ripening; this must be done under the ovary. Thus, the brush is better illuminated and warmed up, which leads to a significant acceleration of ripening. Also, thanks to tying and avoiding contact with the ground, tomatoes are less affected by diseases.

Growing tomatoes: planting determinate varieties

Rooted seedlings quickly grow, forming a bush with many lateral shoots. On each branch an ovary with 4 tassels is formed. When lateral stepsons are removed, the yield is significantly reduced. Therefore, it is irrational to plant low-growing varieties and, as a rule, such bushes do not require special shaping.

Methods for rational cultivation of low-growing tomatoes

To obtain a rich harvest of tomatoes, considerable effort must be made. However, there are ways to make it easier to care for a rooted bush, as well as to propagate seedlings after planting.

As a rule, all low-growing varieties form powerful lower stepsons. To reproduce, it is necessary to bend the overgrown stepson to the side without effort, secure it with a hairpin and sprinkle it with earth. After some time, the stepson will take root and give rise to a new bush. Using this method, you can get a good harvest without having a large number of seedlings.

The second technique allows you to reduce the time spent caring for tomatoes. No pinning is required in this method. Everyone understands that tying up branches is a labor-intensive process. But low-growing bushes can do without this, just plant them thicker. As the bushes grow, they will support themselves.

Features of growing determinate varieties in the northern regions

Cold and short summers, characteristic of the north, often do not allow growing and harvesting tomatoes. Growing tomatoes in open ground allows you to significantly reduce the ripening time and get excellent fruits that have grown and ripened outside of a greenhouse. When side shoots are removed, there is a maximum influx of nutrients to the fruit ovaries, which accelerates their growth and ripening. It is better to pick off the stepsons when they are 3-5 cm in size, every 10 days. The bush is formed so that one or two stems remain on it. Of course, this will not allow you to harvest a large harvest, but it will guarantee that all the fruits will have time to ripen in the short summer.

Late-ripening tomatoes: pinching and pinching

For tall tomatoes, it is necessary to form a bush, otherwise the side branches will grow, thereby preventing the ovaries from fully developing. Such bushes are characterized by the fact that the first fruit ovary is formed after the eighth leaf, and stepson stems appear in the axil of each. Thus, they take on the bulk of the nutrients coming from the root system. As a result, the fruit ovary develops sluggishly and has small and inconspicuous fruits. If you do not interfere with this process, then it will be impossible to grow tomatoes without pinching.

When growing indeterminate seedlings, it is advisable to form three stems. To do this, you need to leave the two lower strong stepsons and grow them like ordinary stems, tying them to a support and removing all the other stepsons. They need to be trimmed in a timely manner: if you miss the moment and the stepsons have outgrown, it is better to use scissors.

With proper care, tall tomatoes produce a bountiful harvest and are characterized by a long fruiting period. In addition to pinching, in such varieties it is necessary to pinch out the upper stems. This is done a month before the planned end of the harvest, thereby ensuring the opportunity to collect large tomatoes. Pinching and pinching, as well as tying tomatoes, are the main techniques that allow you to grow a good harvest in almost any climate zone.

Features of growing and caring for cherry tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes can be grown both in the garden and at home. There are many varieties of these tomatoes that require different care. High varieties grow quickly, bush abundantly, forming stepsons and fruit clusters. Therefore, they need to pay more attention and remove excess stepsons every week. And some varieties can grow both in open ground and in a pot on a windowsill; they do not need such care, because... each branch forms a brush and grows no more.

Final points

There are basic methods that allow you to get a high yield of tomatoes, no matter what variety is cultivated: be it tall “De Barao” or low-growing cherry tomatoes. Pruning, tying and timely watering are the key to obtaining a decent harvest. However, do not forget about feeding the plants. The best option is to apply fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium in the fall when digging the site. Fertilizers containing nitrogen should only be applied in the spring. Also, every three years it is necessary to change the planting location, and to prevent seedling disease, tomatoes should not be planted near potatoes.

Since the 18th century, the tomato crop, now beloved by the majority of the population, appeared in Russia. Every gardener dreams of growing a juicy, tasty berry, usually classified as a vegetable. Although not every area is rich in greenhouses. Is it possible to grow tomatoes in open ground? In most regions - yes. By following agricultural practices adjusted for varieties and local climate, you can grow tomatoes of almost any size and shape outdoors.

Let's get to know each other better - edible tomato

The tomato or tomato is a self-pollinating plant of the nightshade family. The flowers are yellow, small, racemose. Flowering begins from bottom to top. The fruits are juicy berries weighing from 50 g to 1 kg and heavier. The best ones have a meaty texture and few seeds. The shapes are varied, from round to “finger-shaped”. There are a lot of variations in color among different varieties: milky, shades of yellow and pink, red, crimson and even almost black.

The standard growth of the bush is from 300 cm to 3 m. The stem requires support when growing. Stepchildren grow in the axils of the leaves. The root system is tap-type, well developed and branched. It can “grow” into the ground to a depth of more than 1 m, and a width of up to two and a half. With active “feeding”, roots appear in any part of the stem, so propagation by cuttings and stepsons is possible for tomatoes.

The duration of ripening from the appearance of sprouts to the receipt of tomatoes is 95-130 days.

Real benefit:

You can write a whole “poem” about the taste and benefits of tomatoes. Just a few “touches to the portrait” of this delicious vegetable undoubtedly convince us of this.

• There are practically no vitamins that are not contained in tomatoes.
• A whole range of organic acids and essential oils.
• Natural hormones cortisone.
• Low calorie content allows you to eat up to 3 kg per day without harming your health.

Medicinal properties:

• Effectively removes putrefactive bacteria from the body.
• A means of improving the condition of hypertension, diseases of the joints, heart, kidneys.
• Drinking freshly squeezed juice slows down the aging process of the skin.
• The pulp is good for the retina.
• Improves mood.
• Lycopene in tomatoes prevents DNA mutation, which means the formation of cancer.

What varieties can you choose?

The most important issue is choosing a variety that is suitable for growing in a particular area in accordance with the gardener’s needs.

Early ripening tomatoes will grow better in open ground. It is advisable to plant several varieties to guarantee a harvest.

Criterias of choice

Varietal characteristics:

1. Non-standard – ordinary or lodging tomatoes. With a thin stem, when grown, they branch strongly and require support.
2. Standard . Low growth, dense stem. Small root system. Do not stretch out in poor lighting. Early and mid-early growing varieties.
3. Potato . Named for the shape of the leaves. There are no first order or intermediate ones.

Character of growth and branching:

1. Indeterminate – cultivation and fruiting are possible all year round in the absence of cold weather and good lighting. Late ripening, large and tasty fruits. Growing tomatoes requires active care. Suitable for open ground in hot summers.
2. Determinant – growth of a tomato bush to 4-5 flowers. Usually early and mid-early varieties. Almost half of the harvest when grown is given in the first 20 days.
3. Superdeterminant – most of the tomatoes are harvested in the first 20 days from the beginning of fruiting. Low-growing tomatoes, 2-3 inflorescences. There is a minimum of care when growing.

A feature of semi-determinate tomato varieties is the growth of leaves. Mid-late varieties.

Growing season (in days):

• Early ripening - up to 100.
• Mid-early – 101-110.
• Mid-season – 111-115.
• Mid-late – 116 – 120.
• Late – more than 120.

Large-fruited tomato varieties take longer to grow and are more finicky to care for. With a growing season of more than 100 days, good tomatoes will ripen in open-air soil only in the south. Early ripening varieties are stored less.

Hybrid varieties should not be grown for seed production. High-quality seeds remain viable for a decade or more.

Preparing seeds and seedlings

In warm areas, tomato seeds can be planted directly into garden soil; in most areas, cultivation is preferable to seedlings.

Seed treatment

To grow seedlings or plant tomatoes directly in open ground, the seeds need to be prepared. Seedlings are prepared in early March.

• Soak for 5 minutes in a 5% salt solution. Remove any floating “dummies” and rinse the remaining seeds under running water.
• 45 minutes in 1% manganese solution.
• “Thermos heating” - half an hour at a temperature of 50 degrees or a little more - in bags made of gauze or linen.
• “Dip” in cold water for 2-3 minutes.
• Daily soaking in water for swelling.
• Place in damp gauze in a warm place for germination. Don't overdry. Change the water.

Do not soak in solutions: fertilizers, salt, ash. It is useful to use biologically active substances for growing, for example “Epin”, aloe juice (after which they are sown immediately without washing).

When the root appears and the cotyledon leaf straightens out into a loop, we can assume that the germination phase of the seed is over. It is advisable to sow immediately. It is best to germinate in expanded vermiculite, which provides an excellent medium for feeding the roots and an easy opportunity to remove them.

Growing tomato seeds for seedlings

The timing of planting tomato seeds for seedlings in the ground depends on the variety and climate. Later they begin to engage in “early maturation”.

Accepted dates for sowing varieties for seedlings:

• Late – after March 7.
• Average - after 15.
• Early ripening - at the very end of the month or beginning of April.

Plant at an equal depth for friendly shoots. Remove weak sprouts.

Priming. Loose, light, with low acidity. A mixture of forest turf with humus and sand is suitable for cultivation. Disinfection - after spilling potassium permanganate, treat the soil with antifungal drugs, then with ash.

Watering. Water moderately with settled, almost warm water. Dry the soil slightly between waterings. Moisturize well-grown seedlings less often, but spray them generously. Overwatering can lead to illness!

Containers for growing. Seedling boxes, cassettes, regular and peat pots, cups made of different materials, coconut and peat tablets, containers, bags.

Planting density. On 100 square centimeters there are no more than 12-14 tomato seedlings of tall varieties of eight-week-old seedlings, up to 18 pieces of bush varieties of 5-6 weeks of age.

Temperature regime. Before germination – 20-25 degrees. A week after it – about 15, then a return to the old values.

Illumination. For growing, you need clean glass without condensation. Turn 180 degrees every day. It is permissible to tilt it towards the window by 20 degrees or a little more. When the weather gets warmer, place it on a loggia or balcony for growing.

The daylight hours for tomato seedlings are at least 12-14 hours. Do not thicken or shade.

Possibility of diving. Picking tomato seedlings as desired. If it is not planned, sow more freely with a reserve for adding soil. Picking is cutting off the lower part of the main root of a sprout to stimulate lateral shoots. This is usually done 2-3 weeks after germination. They are transplanted into containers where the seedlings will “sit” before moving to garden soil. For the “procedure”, strong, good seedlings are taken. Conducted in the evening or in cloudy weather. Before starting, water the soil well. After finishing, shade for 2-3 days from the beating rays of the sun.

Loosening the soil. Very neat, maximum 0.5 cm. Prevents the formation of bacterial films that prevent breathing.

Feeding. Once every 10 days with complex mineral fertilizers.

Hardening. When it gets warmer than 12 degrees. Start with 3-4 hours in the air. From the 3rd day leave it for a day. 4 days before planting in garden soil - around the clock.

Soil preparation

Tomato seedlings can only be planted in soil “filled” with useful substances. Do not take clayey or low-lying areas. What needs to be done?

• In autumn. Dig up and clear the ground of weeds. Apply humus (5 kg per 1 sq. m.) or a couple of spoons of superphosphate per meter of area to the soil using a shovel. And a little ash.
• In the spring. One and a half kilograms of ash and 25 g of ammonium sulfate per meter of soil area. Can be replaced with a mixture of potassium chloride, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate.

We increase the acidity of the soil with sulfur or sphagnum peat, and reduce it with slaked lime or crushed chalk.

Successful cultivation of tomatoes in open ground is only possible if crop rotation is observed. Do not plant in soil where nightshades grew. A tomato will “rise” well after greens, legumes and root vegetables. It grows wonderfully next to strawberries, and both berries benefit. When growing tomatoes, they love the sun, but not too much wind. Then they will work hard for the harvest.

Sowing and planting

In most regions, tomatoes are released into open ground from June 6 to June 11. 5-6 days before planting for cultivation, form ridges a meter wide or a little more with a height of 20 cm. 70 cm between ridges. To better warm up the soil, after preparation, but before planting, it is good to cover it with black cloth or film.

Sowing seeds. It is best to grow determinate tomatoes from seeds. Planted in the ground in beds in 5 cm holes, 70 cm between them, 1 m between the ridges. Sprinkle a pinch of superphosphate evenly into the hole, water generously, when it is absorbed, lightly bury the seeds. Plant 2-3 pieces at a distance of 15 centimeters. If they sprout in a crowd, you can transplant the extra sprout. The consumption of seeds is greater than that of seedlings. Tomato bushes grown in the ground tolerate heat well.

Planting seedlings correctly

The bushes are not watered the day before planting. Planted in open ground in the late afternoon or in the absence of sunlight.

Planting patterns:

Standard scheme for planting tomato seedlings - in nests:

• Square. The dimensions of the hole for growing standard and determinate (2-3 bushes per nest), spreading early-ripening (2 plants) varieties are 70x70 cm. For mid- and late-ripening tomatoes, 1x1 m is better for two bushes.
• Tape. Irrigation furrows are “dig” along the ridge every 1.4 m. Tomato bushes are planted in one nest on both sides of the furrow with a distance of 60 cm from it, to the next nest of 70 cm.

Planting parameters can be varied, but it is recommended for 1 tomato bush to be at least 0.3 square meters. m of growing space.

Sequencing:

After planting, do not touch the tomato seedlings at all for 10 days while the adaptation period continues. Cover with film.

Tomato care

Health, taste and yields certainly depend on the quality of care for tomatoes in the open field.

Watering. To grow early ripening varieties, 4 times per season are enough: before planting, 7 days after planting, in early July and after the 20th. “Large-fruited plants” are usually watered every 2 days. It is permissible to dig through grooves along the row spacing. Only with settled warm water! The time of the “procedure” is always evening, carry out at the root. You can add ash or potassium permanganate.

Hilling and loosening. Start hilling the tomato bushes a couple of weeks after the seedlings have rooted, then as needed. It is useful to loosen the soil after each watering.

Maintaining taste. There should be enough light, heat (not hotter than 35), moderate moisture and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, a little nitrogen.

Garter. When growing ordinary varieties of tomatoes, 3-4 garters per season. Without pressing the brush with fruits.

Pollination. When grown, mustard, basil and coriander planted between tomatoes attract insects well. Additionally, the taste of the tomatoes will be improved. Problems with pollination occur when the temperature drops to 13 degrees and rises above 30. To help the plant, gently shake the bushes once every couple of days and immediately water them or spray them with a fine spray on the tomato flowers. It is best to carry out pollination between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. When growing, the last inflorescences are usually “dummy” and can be torn off.

Stepping - bush formation

Growing tomatoes- This is the removal of side shoots formed in the leaf axils of young bushes. When growing, they are removed to save plant strength.

Growing tomatoes of early ripening varieties is not necessary. For mid and late ripening it is necessary. Not acceptable in extreme heat.

It is important to know how to plant tomatoes correctly, so as not to “cut off the excess,” but also not to leave it on the bush. In the south, you don’t have to remove the stepchildren, the main thing is not to tie them up. In other climatic zones this process is necessary. When the tomato fruits begin to grow, there should be no stepchildren.

Stepson rules:

• Do not grow above 3-5 cm.
• Do not cut it off completely, otherwise it will grow back. Leave 1-2 cm.
• Don't pull it out, but break it out very carefully.
• Cut off too large stepsons with a sharply sharpened knife.
• The first thing to do is to remove those that have grown under the brushes.
• Work in sunny weather.

Scheme of working with the bush during the growth period:

• When the tomatoes are forming on the first inflorescence, remove all the leaves below.
• Remove the growing shoots from the axils of the leaves located below the first bunch of tomatoes.
• Above, leave a growth of 2-4 trunks. Remove other tomato shoots along their entire length at least once every 14 days.

Fertilizers are an important nutrition for tomatoes in open ground.

Proper care will be complemented by fertilizing minimally, but certainly. Before color appears, give one liter per plant, from the moment the tomato bush blooms - up to 5 liters.

• Early stages of cultivation . If the soil is well prepared, it is enough to water it once with diluted slurry or fermented grass. In case of vigorous growth of greenery, use a solution of superphosphate (3 large spoons per bucket).
• Bloom. Spray with a daily solution of ash (pour 2 cups into a bucket) after the heat of the day has subsided. A good preventative.

Additional options:

• Fermented nettle with ash.
• Dry the banana peels in the oven, cool, and grind into flour. Lots of calcium and phosphorus. Sprinkle at the roots once every 14 days.

Other means - according to visible problems on the plants:

What is missing	Visible signs of growing problems
Nitrogen	The leaf becomes lighter and shredded. The bush grows more slowly.
Potassium	The edge of the tomato leaf turns yellow, curls and dries out.
Calcium	The upper buds and roots fall off.
Magnesium	Light green blotches on the leaves.
Copper	Their tips turn white and the tops dry out.
Bor	The tomato buds on the tops and measles are dying. The ovaries and flowers fall.
Phosphorus	The leaves take on a shade of red or purple and “stand” at an acute angle to the stem.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Like any vegetables and berries, tomatoes when grown in open ground can be susceptible to diseases and pests. The owner of the plantings must be careful to recognize the silent suffering of his pets.

Infectious diseases of tomatoes

Fungi and bacteria. Infection of tomatoes is promoted by: high planting density during cultivation, excessive humidity, excess fertilizer in the soil and heat.

Viruses. They are carried by sap-sucking insects and garden supplies. Infected plants are only destroyed.

Folk prevention:

• When planting and when tomato fruits began to set . Mixture per 10 liters of water: 40 drops of iodine and 30 g of potassium chloride. Half a liter per bush.
• Tincture for the period when buds appear: 0.5 kg of grated garlic per large bucket of warm water. After 24 hours, add 1 g of manganese. Water the same amount, but per square meter.
• Infusion or sprinkling of tomatoes with wood ash or coal.
• 10% saline solution once a week.
• 0.02% solution of copper sulfate with powdered soap (40 g).
• If the soil is too acidic, use ash or lime.

Non-infectious diseases of tomatoes

They arise from improper care when growing tomatoes. To cure, it is enough to remove the cause.

• Fetal burn. Watery spots dry out and turn grayish or yellow. From prolonged direct sunlight and lack of moisture.
• Cracking. Microbes easily penetrate tomatoes. Excess fertilizing with nitrogen, unstable watering, sudden changes in soil moisture.
• Rolling sheets. Go up. Lots of nitrogen and little phosphorus in hot weather and poor watering.
• Green spot. It moves from the stalk to the fruit. There is a lack of potassium and nitrogen in the soil for proper cultivation, and poor watering.

Preventing the spread of pests

The main pests when growing tomatoes in open ground: Colorado potato beetle, mole crickets, stink bugs, whiteflies, wireworms, and cutworms. It is easier to take preventive measures than to treat with chemicals.

Preventive measures:

• In the fall, lay out manure heaps where the mole cricket will move to spend the winter. In the spring, pour them with a solution: 3 glasses of vinegar and 150 g of hot pepper in a large bucket of water.
• Traps for mole crickets: cut hot pepper into a bucket of hot water, leave for 4 hours, add 10 large spoons of honey. Cut off the bottom of plastic bottles, close with a lid, pour in the solution and bury in the ground level with the soil. The mole crickets will gather for a treat.
• Traps for wireworms: string raw potatoes, beets or carrots onto sticks about 35 cm long. Bury it in the ground for 21 days, leaving 10 centimeters above the surface. Then pull it out.
• Garlic tincture: 150 g of heads per liter of hot water, leave for 6 days and spray on tomatoes. You can brew 200 g of husk.
• Spraying tobacco dust with tincture.
• For the same purposes - blooming wormwood: 300 g per bucket of hot water with the addition of soap shavings (2 large spoons) and a glass of ash for a week.
• Wash and treat garden tools with a 2% formaldehyde solution.

Collection and storage of grown tomatoes

It is best to remove tomatoes that are starting to turn red, which are about a week away from being fully ripened. If you systematically pick exactly these fruits, more tomatoes will ripen. When tomatoes in the garden become overripe, fewer of them are produced.

The redness of picked tomatoes at home is called ripening. To make them turn red faster, place them in a dark, warm place and add a few red fruits.

Surprisingly, red cloth, which should be used to cover the tomatoes or make a bag out of it, helps speed up ripening.

By following all the “laws” of growing tomatoes, you can get the same high yield from open ground bushes as in a greenhouse. Only it will contain much more substances beneficial to the body. The main thing is to follow the golden rule - all care and “nutrition” should be in moderation, wisely and competently.

The important seedling period has ended and the tomatoes are planted in open ground. Right now the struggle for the harvest begins. The quality and quantity of the harvest will depend on how much moisture, heat, and nutrients the plant has.

To harvest a good harvest of tomatoes, you will have to work hard.

Caring for tomato plants during the period of growth and ripening consists of:

• garters;
• formation;
• watering;
• hilling;
• timely harvest.

Before deciding on care methods and drawing up an action plan, you should find out whether the tomatoes are tall, or determinate. Knowing this feature, you can understand whether tomatoes need supports (height from 1 to 2 meters) or whether you can get by with low pegs.

Support is the main thing

Oddly enough, supports in growing tomatoes are of primary importance.

Tomato shoots, especially those with large fruits, unable to support enormous weight. As they grow, bending towards the ground, the lashes lie down and take root. Raising already rooted stems is difficult and should not be allowed.

If the tomato is indeterminate

As soon as the seedlings are planted, support systems are immediately installed and the shoots are tied up.

The faster this event is completed, the easier it will be to carry out all the others:

• the rows will be marked;
• row spacing can be easily treated from weeds;
• It will be easier to carry out treatment against pests and diseases.

If the tomato is determinate

For low-growing tomato varieties, it is enough to place wooden pegs or low wire arcs.

A low-growing tomato also needs support. Varieties of modern selection have high yields. Their fruits often reach a weight of 300 g. Such a tomato must be fixed gently, neatly and firmly.

Prepare the pegs in advance. If you use those that served last year, be sure to whiten them with lime - this will destroy pathogens remaining from the previous season.

Don't delay with the garter. As soon as the shoot grows, fix it immediately.

Support systems can be:

• individual, for each bush;
• group.

Whatever system is chosen, the support must be rigid and durable. The support with installation at the beginning and end of two closely spaced rows has proven itself well. In this case, a horizontal crossbar can serve both rows at the same time.

The material for the garter should be taken either new or boiled.

If you tie the string to a horizontal support and lower it down, then subsequent actions will only involve weaving it around the tomato shoot.

Watering tomatoes

It is necessary to water carefully so as not to wash away the roots of the seedling.

During the period of growth and fruit set, watering should be rare and abundant. Good watering involves wetting the earthen ball to the level of the full root system. Ideally, the soil should be wetted to a depth not less than 50 cm.

Drip irrigation is now enjoying particular success. It has long been legalized that irrigated crops provide an increase in yield by 25–30% . The irrigation system should be turned on 1-2 times a week , but for a long time. When watering by hand, you should pour at least 3–4 liters of water .

During the period when tomatoes enter the ripening stage, watering continues, but is done more often and less abundantly.

The loss of turgor by the leaf plate should not be allowed - this lowers the immune status of the plant.

Watering should be done with heated water, at the root, trying not to get on the vegetative organs of the plant.

All watering is carried out depending on natural moisture. If the summer is rainy, then there may even be excess moisture.

Formation

Choosing low-growing tomatoes by maintaining culture you don't have to study . Varieties that form themselves are very simple and easy to maintain, but are less productive and do not produce large fruits.

If indeterminate, tall and high-yielding tomatoes with large fruits are planted, they must be shaped.

An ideal tomato bush has 5–6 bunches of fruit and about three dozen leaves.

The cultivation of such tomatoes is carried out in one, or at most two, shoots. To do this, the stem is tied up, and all stepsons are regularly removed. Shoot growing from an internode:

• takes away strength from the plant;
• diverts nutrients;
• produces thickening of plantings.

As soon as the cutting (stepson) has grown by 1–2 cm, it is broken out by hand or cut off with scissors. There is no point in walking through tomato plantings every day. It is enough to carry out pinching once a week and the plantation will be in good condition.

Feeding

If the garden soil has low fertility, it will not be possible to achieve a high yield without fertilizing.

Feeding can be carried out:

• organic fertilizers (pig, cow, horse manure, chicken droppings);
• mineral fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate, nitroammophoska).

Each of these fertilizers has its positive and negative sides. A special effect can be achieved by alternating organic and mineral water.

It is better to apply manure in the fall when preparing the beds for the next season.

If the soils were thoroughly amended before planting, then fertilizing begins at the moment of abundant removal of nutrients- at the time of rapid fetal growth.

If work to improve soil fertility has not been carried out, then fertilizing should begin much earlier, 1–2 weeks after planting the seedlings.

Before flowering

Fertilizing before flowering is carried out with nitrogen fertilizers.

Ammonium nitrate is used only for root feeding. Spraying on the leaf is not recommended due to the high concentration of nitrogen, which can cause burns on plants.

• To do this, just dissolve 2 tbsp in a bucket of water. spoons of ammonium nitrate or urea, and pour under each plant 500 g. For the same purpose, make a solution of manure 1:10 or chicken droppings 1:20.
• As soon as the plant enters in the budding phase , fertilize with superphosphate or potassium sulfate. To do this, add 1 tbsp to a bucket of water. spoon of preparations, stir and pour under the root 400–500 g.

Superphosphate fertilizing is needed for the development of the root system and for better fruit formation.

Alternating fertilizing has a beneficial effect on the formation of ovaries.

Feeding during the flowering period (foliar)

This period is the most critical for the plant. By feeding, you can significantly improve pollination, which will lead to the appearance of abundant ovaries.

Boric acid

Spraying with a solution of boric acid increases the number of formed fruit ovaries.

Sami buds and flowers should not be moistened, but the shoots that bear them should be made wet.

Superphosphate

Superphosphate can also be used as foliar feeding.

Superphosphate granules do not dissolve well in water, so hot water is used to prepare the extract.

To do this proceed as follows:

1. Bring one liter of water to a boil.
2. Add a teaspoon of superphosphate to the water.
3. We crush and defend.
4. We filter.
5. Spray the tomato shoots.

Sodium humate

To carry out this treatment, it is enough to dissolve 0.1 g (at the tip of a knife) of sodium humate in a liter of water and treat the plantings.

Sodium humate is an environmentally friendly organic fertilizer.

When treated with this drug you can achieve:

• friendly budding;
• fast flowering;
• abundant formation of full-fledged ovaries;

Particular attention should be paid to foliar feeding during natural disasters (high humidity, heat, sudden cold snap).

Hilling

The process of hilling and mulching does not clearly affect tomato plants.

Hilling up tomatoes is done 2-3 times per season.

After hilling and without drip irrigation, the plant will acquire additional roots, but will not be able to absorb nutrients. Only moist soil has the ability to release elements to the root system. Therefore, where it is not possible to irrigate, there is no point in hilling tomatoes.

Mulching

Mulching also has its pros and cons.

Mulching prevents the formation of crust on the soil surface and reduces the amount of watering.

If the weather is dry, mulch will help retain at least some moisture. If nature brings a rainy summer, then the mulch will be a breeding ground for diseases and...

These activities should be carried out based on the characteristics of the regions where the crop is cultivated.

Disease Prevention

Late blight is a disease that takes away most of the crop. Prevention is the basis of well-being.

Late blight is a dangerous and most common disease of tomatoes that can destroy most of the crop.

As soon as the tomato plant begins to form buds, treatments should begin. To do this you can choose:

• "Allirin-B";
• "Phenomenon";
• "Quadris";
• "Fitosporin-M";
• "Thanos" and etc.

Plants are treated in accordance with the instructions for the preparations at intervals at least 13–15 days .

If tomato plantations are attacked by white and gray rot from year to year, then you can use the drug “Gammair”. Will save you from bacterial spotting " Fitosporin-M ».

If temperature changes are high, then you can increase immunity by using the following drugs:

• "Gibberross";
• "Gibbor-M";
• "Immunocytophyte";
• "Ovary";
• "Biosil".

Pest Control

It is better not to plant tomatoes next to potatoes; in addition to the annoying Colorado potato beetle, there is a risk of late blight.

If tomato plantings are in close proximity to potato and eggplant plantings, then an attack by the Colorado potato beetle cannot be avoided.

To combat insects you can use:

• "Bitoxibacillin";
• "Aktara";
• "Bankol";
• "Presto";
• "Bikol";
• "Karate" and etc.

Harvesting

Timely harvesting will allow the remaining fruits to grow, gain marketable weight and ripen. There is no point in leaving brown tomatoes on the vines; they will slow down ripening and weigh down the shoots.

Green fruits will turn red faster if you pick ripe tomatoes in time.

• When harvesting, tomatoes are ripened in a dry, dark, warm place.
• Having laid out the tomatoes in several rows, in boxes or baskets, they are kept until the fruit is slightly soft.
• Brown tomatoes are easier to transport.
• You can process correctly harvested fruits gradually, without rushing, choosing those that are necessary in accordance with the recipe of the dish.

conclusions

Caring for tomatoes is a chain of several links. Every link is very important.

By wasting time and not giving it meaning, you can lose the entire harvest . The technology for cultivating tomato crops requires regularity and timeliness of care, thanks to which you can get a bountiful harvest of tasty and high-quality tomatoes.

Video on how to improve fruit set on tomatoes

- a very important task for gardeners. Tomatoes are a popular vegetable, and every summer resident should know how to grow them and get a good harvest. So what are the nuances and features of caring for tomatoes growing in open ground? What “operations” will the gardener need to perform? You will find the answer by reading the article.

Conditions for growing tomatoes

Each plant grows well in a specific environment. This primarily concerns temperature, amount of light and soil characteristics. Tomatoes growing in open ground also have certain conditions. The plant loves light and warmth. In open ground this is easier to achieve than.

The seed germination temperature ranges from 9 to 14 degrees, depending on the varieties. For normal growth in open ground, tomatoes need well-moistened soil and many sunny days.

All these conditions are found in our country and in the Moscow region, and in the Urals, and in some northern regions.

Caring for tomatoes in open ground

To get a rich harvest, you need to take care of the plant. Caring for tomatoes in open ground largely depends on the variety, but there are general rules. If they are followed, the plant will develop actively and bear a lot of fruit. Let's look at how to care for tomatoes step by step.

Caring for seedlings after planting in open ground

Tomatoes in our country begin to be grown in winter, in the form of seedlings. Already grown plants are planted in open ground.

And here it is important to carry out a number of measures that will improve the survival rate of tomatoes in a new place:

The plant receives nutrition from the lateral roots. Because of this, tomatoes are planted in open ground so that they are lower than before. If the seedlings are tall, then they are placed in the hole at an angle.

Proper watering

Caring for open ground tomatoes includes several main types of work. First of all, proper watering. The plant loves moisture, but you can’t overdo it.

To ensure that tomatoes grow well in open ground, adhere to the following recommendations:

Moisture when growing tomatoes in open ground also affects the “health” of the plants. With excess, late blight and gray rot appear. If there is not enough moisture, then tomatoes suffer from blossom end rot.

Tillage

Measures for caring for tomatoes when grown in open ground also include work on the ground. This includes weeding, hilling, loosening, etc. They are aimed at strengthening the root system and retaining moisture in the soil.

Loosening and mulching

After watering, the soil becomes dense. As a result, not enough oxygen reaches the plant roots. To avoid this, caring for tomatoes grown in open ground includes loosening.

The procedure is carried out after each watering, while:

• The first loosening is done to a depth of at least 10 cm. The soil becomes porous and is easily saturated with oxygen.
• Each subsequent loosening is carried out to a depth of 5 cm. The work prevents the soil, especially around the root, from compacting.

Loosening must be done carefully, especially around the tomato trunk. Porous soil has a larger surface area, which increases evaporation. To prevent the soil from drying out, lay mulch. Chopped grass is used for this. Other means are used for mulch - humus or special film.

It is impossible to cover the soil immediately after planting. If the tomatoes are not mulched using a dark film, the soil will not warm up enough. For this reason, the procedure is carried out only after rooting and the beginning of active growth of the plant.

Weeding

Caring for tomatoes in open ground includes removing weeds.

Weeding is needed for the following reasons:

• weeds “take away” moisture and nutrients from tomatoes;
• grass, especially in the first time after planting seedlings, grows more actively and blocks the sun's rays;
• Diseases are transmitted from weeds to tomatoes.

Weeding is carried out simultaneously with loosening the soil. When the tomato bush grows and fruits form, weeds are removed as they are detected. During this period, loosening after each watering will be difficult.

There is a lot of controversy surrounding this procedure. Not all gardeners are sure of its necessity.

The following speaks in favor of hilling:

All this speaks to the benefits of doing this work. Experienced gardeners point out the signs when they need to hill up tomatoes. If white root formations appear at the bottom of the trunk, then we are talking about a lack of nutrients. In such a situation, hilling will help.

The procedure is carried out 2 times per season. The first hilling of tomatoes is carried out 10-15 days after planting the seedlings. The next one is in 2-3 weeks. If after this additional roots continue to form, then hilling is performed again.

Fertilizer

It is difficult to grow tomatoes in open ground without good feeding and treatment. It is necessary to fertilize before planting. It is best to add humus. If fresh manure is used, fertilizing is carried out in the fall.

Tomatoes are fertilized in open ground in two ways:

For root feeding of tomatoes when grown in open ground, organic and mineral fertilizers are used:

• chicken droppings;
• manure;
• humus;
• compost;
• ammonium nitrate;
• potassium sulfate;

Video about feeding tomatoes with yeast and pinching:

Bush formation

When caring for tomatoes when growing them in open ground, all stages are important. The formation of a bush is also included in the list of mandatory works. This procedure consists of several steps, some of which can be skipped depending on the variety of tomatoes.

Stepsoning

When nightshade plants, which include tomatoes, grow, a large number of shoots are formed from the main stem. Each of them takes away strength from the plant. As a result, the crop does not have time to ripen. To prevent this from happening, the tomatoes need to be pinched.

When growing tomatoes in open ground, this work is carried out taking into account the following:

The main stem of a tomato is the one on which the first inflorescence appears. If the variety is super-determinate, then 2-3 shoots are left on the bush. When using determinate and indeterminate tomatoes for growing in open ground, one main stem is left. In this case, the harvest can be obtained earlier.

Tomatoes without pinching

Not all varieties of tomatoes grown in open ground should have their shoots removed. There are tomatoes that do not require pinching.

They independently limit their growth. Breeders have developed varieties belonging to the group semi-determinate. The height of tomato bushes does not exceed 50-76 cm. Its growth ends after the formation of 3-4 inflorescences.

Topping

Each tomato bush grown in open ground produces a large number of inflorescences. This especially applies to high-grade varieties. Gardener practice shows that only 2-3 bunches of tomatoes have time to ripen.

• The work is carried out at the end of July, after the formation of the required number of inflorescences.
• If we are talking about tall tomato varieties, then pinching is done several times during the season.
• The operation itself consists of trimming the top of the stem.
• In this case, 2-3 leaves should remain on top of the last inflorescence.

Removing leaves

Another type of work on the formation of a tomato bush when grown in open ground is the removal of part of the tops.

The operation is necessary for the following reasons:

• yellowed and rotten leaves are removed;
• better air circulation near the soil is ensured, which reduces the risk of disease infection;
• fruit ripening accelerates.

The operation is performed 30-40 days after planting. It should be removed in warm and dry weather, this will allow the “wounds” to dry out faster. Initially, only the lower leaves located directly above the soil surface are cut off. Gradually, once a week, they rise higher. When the tomatoes begin to turn brown in the lower fruit cluster, 1-2 leaves should remain under them.

How to grow more crops?

Any gardener and summer resident is pleased to receive a large harvest with large fruits. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to obtain the desired result.

Plants often lack nutrition and useful minerals

It has the following properties:

• Allows increase productivity by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
• You can get a good one harvest even on low-fertility soils and in unfavorable climatic conditions
• Absolutely safe

Installation of stakes and tying

Tomato bushes, when grown in open ground, need to be protected from many problems. Large tomatoes can break the stems, on the ground the plant is attacked by pests, and the surrounding foliage blocks the sun. All these problems are solved by staking tomato bushes.

To do this, the stems are attached to a support, the latter being:

And the chosen design needs to be attached to the stems of tomato bushes. This can be done in different ways. If funds are available, special clips are purchased. Gardeners make do with improvised means - they simply tie the stems with suitable ropes.

The stems are attached to the supports with different knots, the easiest way is a free loop:

• The method is used when attaching tomatoes to trellises.
• They are tied to individual stakes with a figure of eight.
• A rope is wrapped around the trunk, crossed and secured to a support.

Diseases and pests

Caring for tomatoes when grown in open ground is impossible to imagine without fighting the “illnesses” of the plant. Tomatoes are at risk from both diseases and insect pests. For this reason, a gardener must know how to deal with the dangers.

Prevention of diseases and pests

It is best to prevent danger.

It is imperative to use preventive measures:

Spraying using special and traditional methods is used to prevent diseases. Among the chemicals used, potassium permanganate, boric acid, copper and special preparations are used.

Gardeners often prefer to use folk, safe remedies.

Prevention of late blight is carried out using a 10% saline solution, for this:

• 1 kg of table salt is diluted in 10 liters of water;
• The resulting product is sprayed onto the plants.

Solutions based on fresh manure or ordinary wood tinder are also used.

Pest Control

When growing tomatoes outdoors, many problems are caused by insects and other animals. They are fought with different methods.

Pest name	Description and methods of struggle
Cruciferous potato flea beetle	It affects when grown in open ground. Used for fighting infusion of celandine, onions, garlic. Another remedy - and tobacco dust. Prevention - preventing the appearance of weeds and the absence of nearby plantings of other nightshades.
Scoop	The caterpillar eats both the leaves and flowers and the fruits of the vegetable. Used for prevention infusion of burdock, calendula, garlic. Insecticides are used for control.
Potato	Pest prevention is carried out using decoctions of tomato, potato, tobacco leaves.
	In warm regions, slugs become a big problem. To protect tomatoes in open ground, the beds are sprinkled around the perimeter slaked lime. Another remedy is to plant the plantation with plants such as parsley, Mistakes when growing tomatoes Caring for open ground tomatoes is quite difficult. If even one major mistake is made, you won’t have a good harvest. Typical “mistakes” of gardeners include: Wrong choice of variety. Varieties intended for greenhouses are often purchased. Even if the weather in the region is warm, such tomatoes grow poorly in open ground. Choosing the wrong place. Tomatoes do not like acidic soil. And also the place is chosen to be sunny. Ignoring recommendations on planting frequency. Tomatoes are large plants that need a lot of space. Reluctance to “mess around” with the formation of a bush. A large number of ovaries does not always indicate a rich harvest. It is also important to follow the feeding and watering regime. In both cases, you can’t “overdo it.” Everything should be in moderation. Harvest Experienced gardeners do not wait for tomatoes to fully ripen. Brown fruits are collected. In this case, the tomatoes will remain fresh for a long time. Harvesting is carried out in the morning, at which time the fruits are elastic and last longer. It is advisable that there is no moisture on the surface of the tomatoes. During harvesting, spoiled fruits are also collected. This will prevent the spread of the disease. Useful video about caring for tomatoes before harvesting: Conclusion Tomatoes are a favorite vegetable in domestic gardens. Caring for a plant when grown outdoors involves a lot of work. The first is choosing and preparing a place and planting seedlings. After a week, you need to start watering, loosening and removing weeds. The list of works includes the formation of bushes, installation of supports and garter, as well as pest and disease control. If you don’t make mistakes and follow the recommendations, you will definitely be pleased with the harvest.