Haircut methods. Precision haircut techniques. Factors influencing the choice of haircut
STATE EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION
SECONDARY PROFESSIONAL EDUCATION
"ASTRAKHAN STATE COLLEGE OF PROFESSIONAL TECHNOLOGIES"
COURSE PROJECT
ON THE TOPIC: "MODERN HAIR CUTTING METHODS"
Completed: student of group 3-10 PI
Osipova E.P.
Head: R.V. Nazarova
ASTRAKHAN 2005
- Introduction
- Chapter1. Theoretical part
- 1.2.2 Thinning with a razor
- Chapter 2. Technological part
- 2.1.1 General
- 2.1.2 Combs
- 2.1.3 Scissors
- 2.1.4 Shavers
- 2.2.1 Haircut using styling and color fromCiro Apicella
- 2.2.2 Everyday style
- 2.2.3 Grotesque
- 2.2.5 Sport haircut
- Conclusion
- Bibliography
Introduction
Hairdressing is one of the oldest human activities, which is primarily aimed at improving (decorating) his appearance. The development and improvement of hairdressing is closely related to the evolution of human society, changes in living conditions, and an increase in the level of general culture. In every era, paying tribute to fashion, hairdressing masters have created new forms, lines and decorative elements of the hairstyle.
The history of hairstyles and haircuts in Russia is varied. But for the most part, Slavic peoples since ancient times wore long hair and beards, women - braids. Under the influence of the Normans, they began to switch to semi-long hair, they began to shave their beards, leaving only a mustache.
With the spread of Christianity, long beards reappeared, trimmed in the shape of a shovel. The most common haircut among the male population Ancient Rus from small to large was "under the pot."
Since the VIII century, as a result of the Tatar invasion, the Russian people began to imitate and cut their hair according to the Eastern custom, even shave their heads baldly.
Under Ivan the Terrible, shaving the beard and head was prohibited by law. The deviation from the law under Boris Godunov was one of the reasons for the dislike of the people.
In 1675, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich issued a decree - "Do not adopt foreign customs, do not shave the hair on your head, do not wear foreign clothes." The majority of the population during this period used the services of itinerant barbers. After Peter's reforms, soldiers wore shoulder-length hair, combed it up and parted it.
During the reign of Peter I, women finally ceased to be hermits and were able to attend balls and assemblies. So in Russian fashion, hairstyles of large volume made of thick curls and adornments from expensive jewelry entered.
Over time, Russia nevertheless developed its own style, which was dictated by the originality of the Russian nature. Gradually, ladies' hairstyles became less pretentious, more modest, which has always distinguished women in Russia.
The old Russian hairstyle "like a pot" has survived only among peasants and Old Believers. Wealthy people wore wigs. The first special fashion magazines appeared that recommended how to take care of their appearance.
After the war of 1812, the French prisoners changed their uniforms to barbers' dresses. The French were a resounding success. Noble princes ordered real hairdressers from Paris.
The transition from feudalism to capitalism changed everything. Public transport has made its own adjustments to clothing and hair. By 1900, the character of hairstyles changed in connection with the changes taking place in social life at the end of the century. Fashion becomes more international, appears business style, expressed in the simplicity and rationality of the hairstyle.
In 1914 - the "Russian haircut" appeared. The first short haircut for women that brought such gentle charm to the look of Russian women. In the same year, the first World War, which involved 38 states in hostilities. Short hair has given new impetus to hairdressers. They began to be laid using cold styling (undulation) or hot tongs. It was at least some kind of "progress".
In 1915, a closed forehead came into vogue. They began to cover it with bangs, a hat or a ribbon.
Gradually, a geometric hairstyle-hairstyle, which is in perfect harmony with clothes, comes into vogue. Short hair is often worn in a straight line, oblique with short temples. Preference is given to straight, smooth hair with straight bangs and very bright lips.
From 1922 to 1929 - collectivization, trade unions, the Komsomol, a pioneer organization appear, bread cards are introduced. Along with these events, a simple haircut is firmly established throughout the country. Pioneers, orphanages, typhus, Komsomol members, military men, convicts, prisoners, men and women alike, all cut their hair baldly.
Only by the end of the 30s, a fairly wide network of hairdressing salons appeared in Russia, providing the population with a wide range of services. Along with the then fashionable foxtrot haircuts, female hairdressers successfully performed complex hairstyles by styling hair with hot tongs. Long-term perm was also popular. On short hair, it was performed using the horizontal method, on long hair, using the vertical method.
In 1936, new rules were developed. Of great importance was the decree on the assignment of the category to the masters depending on their qualifications and on the introduction of the title of "master of hairdressing". The first salons are opened, the masters begin to work with electric clippers. By the 40s - thermal curling has firmly entered the arsenal of services for a hairdresser. The hair curled steeply over the forehead, the side zones rose up, the entire hair was tucked into a net.
During the Great Patriotic War, hairstyles are made from semi-long hair, the ends of which curl inward. Hairstyles with short haircuts, as well as with braids, are preserved. The hairstyles of the post-war years are basically the same as in the war years, but with some changes.
At the end of the 50s, a hairstyle came from Germany, which received the name "Bell" because of its silhouette. With this hairstyle, the color of the hair changes, the colors become fashionable: the color of bronze, platinum, copper.
Having passed through the middle of the 20th century, hairdressing is confidently rising from its knees once again. The work of hairdressers in Russia is strongly influenced by films and illustrated magazines.
Since the mid-60s, young people began to lower their hair, which caused discontent among the older generation. Imitating the Liverpool four - the Beatles - youth changed for a long time appearance... Haircuts such as "Finnish boy", "Swedish boy" belong to this period. In the late 60s, men began to curl their hair with a perm. Hairstyles began to combine several elements - haircuts, curls, soft waves. Hairstyles with a "stepped" haircut, a "Parisian head", hairstyles with long bangs that cover the forehead and eyebrows are spreading.
In the mid-70s, the Sessun haircut, proposed by V. Sessun, an English hairdresser, came to Russia. It was the discovery of the century in haircut technology. A new word (concept) has appeared in the lexicon of hairdressers - a model haircut, and along with it, the cost of the service increases.
Along with the classics, during this period, first in large and then in small cities of Russia, punks appear with their pretentious appearance, behavior, their own vision of the world and themselves in it. Against this background, haircuts such as "hedgehog" and women's "cascade", "Aurora", proposed by the hairdresser D. Kondrashova, appear.
1980, the year of the 1980 Olympics. Hairdressers from different countries create male and female models with names consonant with this holiday: "Sports", "Olympic", "Olympia".
1981 Sassoon demonstrates the bob cut, the first in a series of geometric haircuts. The haircut was warmly received and recognized in many countries. This haircut will be worn until the end of the century. However, in most of the eighties fashion is characterized by generally long hair, a loose silhouette.
Men's haircuts are sporty and elegant. At the end of the 80s, nostalgia was felt for the shapes and silhouettes of hairstyles from the first half of the 20th century. Many hairstyles are made on the basis of a perm. Hairstyles are complemented by false hair - curls and braids.
In the early 90s, the hairstyle itself fades into the background. A haircut-hairstyle came to replace her. During this period, there is a sharp division of hairdressing into high fashion and everyday, ordinary. Everything that the leading fashion designers create at world-class professional skill contests is generally not accepted by the people.
1992 - the Russian national team takes part in the World Championship in Japan, where it takes seventh place.
1993 - the beauty festival "Intersharm" is held.
1994 - in London, at the 1996 World Championships in Washington, the Russians are already in third place.
In 1998, in Seoul, the Russian team won first place.
The main thing for an ordinary client was a haircut and a modest styling.
In March 1998, the first Moscow Championship in hairdressing and decorative cosmetics took place. In the same year, the Moscow Union of Hairdressers was created for the first time in Russia.
A hundred years ago, hairdresser Andreev glorified Russia, today the pride of the country is Irina Baranova and other famous master artists, recognized and loved by the young generation of hairdressers.
The name of Sergei Zverev shines especially brightly in the last decade of the twentieth century among specialists in hairdressing.
In women's haircuts, long hair, slightly decorated in curls, remains fashionable. Bangs with a "torn" line in the form of a "fringe" come into fashion. Haircuts such as "Frame", "Hollywood" and many others appear. Haircuts such as "false squares", "hat" and others are in demand, although new times have given them different names.
By 1999, there is a tendency, against the background of long, well-groomed hair, to use styling with the use of gelling agents to give smoothness, shine, combing the hair from the face. A zigzag parting is introduced, the pigtail shows little interest in undulation.
Increasingly, men are staring at small, smooth female heads, asymmetric details appear in haircuts.
By the end of the century, the passion of the people for the profession of "hairdresser" broke through. Courses for hairdressers are opening all over Russia; as a rule, hairdressers are trained in every school, lyceum, college.
Section 1. Theoretical part
1.1 General information about cutting hair
A haircut is one of the most difficult jobs in hairdressing. Indeed, the appearance of the future hairstyle depends on how well it will be performed.
When performing haircuts, the hairdresser must be able to apply different methods of hair treatment.
Before doing a haircut, it is necessary to correctly divide the hair into strands with partings, which will determine the shape of the future haircut. Partings are horizontal, vertical, radial and radial.
Horizontal partings are partings parallel to the floor plane.
Vertical partings are partings directed perpendicular to the floor.
Radial partings run at an angle of 45 ° to vertical or horizontal parting and allow you to get the maximum increase in hair length when cutting.
Beam partings are partings coming out of one point.
All haircuts can be divided into contrasting and non-contrasting.
Mostly haircuts are contrasting, i.e. These are haircuts in which the hair has different lengths on different parts of the head.
At non-contrasting haircuts leave the hair the same length on different parts of the head.
Each type of haircut consists of separate technical operations. Depending on the specific model, the following methods, haircut techniques, can be used when cutting.
1.2 Modern methods and techniques for performing hair cutting
1 Modern methods of thinning with scissors
1. Zigzag sawing method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, the scissors are held vertically and cut off the required length of hair in a zigzag.
2. The injection method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, point cuts of individual hairs are made with the ends of the scissors, creating an undercoat.
3. The plucking method. Can be performed with the ends of the scissors in a sliding motion both above and below the fingers.
4. Sliding cut. It is performed with thinning scissors, which glide smoothly through the hair.
5. Thinning on the twisted strand. A small strand is twisted with a flagellum and cut in several places with the ends of scissors.
6. Fleece method. The strand is perpendicular to the head, the open canvases of the scissors are inserted into it and a movement from top to bottom is performed.
1.2.2 Thinning with a razor
Scraping. The hair is divided into zones in accordance with the cutting lines, the razor is guided towards the ends of the hair in front of the comb. This method is performed if the hairstyle requires a more tight fit of the hair to the head (only on curly coarse hair).
Tumirovka. The comb is positioned with the teeth up and combs her hair. The razor moves parallel to the comb in the opposite direction.
Slip. The hair is combed with a comb, the razor glides smoothly through the hair towards the ends.
The fleece method. The strand is perpendicular to the head, the razor moves from the ends to the roots, imitating a fleece (flagellum).
Blunt cut with a razor. On the twisted strand, pull off small strands perpendicularly, twist them into a bundle, cut the ends off with a razor.
Thinning of the twisted strand using the "scraping" method. We separate the strand in the form of a square, twist it, pull it perpendicular to the head and cut it in the direction towards the ends with undercutting movements.
1.2.3 Modern methods of hair treatment
Pointcat(point cut) - a point toothed cut from the ends of the hair to the middle (for thinning).
Polishing- point toothed cut from the middle of the strand to the ends.
Pointing- sliding toothed cut from the middle of the hair to the ends (with straight scissors):
Ponting - a serrated cut sliding from the ends of the hair to the middle to a dry (more obtuse angle);
Pancropping - a sliding toothed cut from the ends of the hair to the middle to dry (possible on wet hair) (sharper).
Slicing(clithing) - a sliding cut with straight scissors from the hair roots to its ends, the angle is 30-60 °.
When styling the hair upwards, slicing is performed from the outside, and downwards from the inside.
1.2.4 Modern cutting techniques
Neo-minimalism - simple haircuts with straight scissors, without serrated cuts and thinning. A minimum of details and a simple shape (square).
Geometric- geometric shapes, details, hair cutting.
Corridors- non-connecting parts. It is cut by the method of straight scissors. Corridors are of different lengths, they can be located in parallel or in a checkerboard pattern.
Non-joining connected parts- not connected in the form, but connected in the image.
1.3 Factors influencing the choice of haircut
Choosing the right haircut will allow the hairdresser to correct the flaws in appearance and pay attention to its advantages. Choosing a haircut as the basis for a hairstyle, it is necessary to take into account the individuality of a person's appearance, as well as the existing anatomical features, i.e. the choice of a haircut is determined by the following factors.
1. Head and face shape. Due to the fact that the shapes of the male head and the female head are different, haircuts are also different: angular lines prevail in men's haircuts, and rounded in women's.
2. Dimensions. Shoulder width, height, build, etc.
3. Hair Growth Border. In men, for example, the hairline on the neck is lower than in women, and the frontal notches are more pronounced.
4. The type and characteristics of hair growth. Most often, the difficulties of performing a haircut are observed on the crown, in the frontal and occipital parts of the head.
5. Hair density. Hair density is different in different areas of the head. There is usually less hair density behind the auricle, in the lower occipital region, as well as in the areas of the frontal notches and the crown. When choosing a haircut, this must be taken into account.
6. Forehead height. For example, a high forehead should be covered with bangs.
7. Profile. There are three types of profile: straight (ideal), which does not require correction; convex - with a protruding middle part (in this case, the volume of the hairstyle on the forehead must be increased); concave - with a protruding chin (in this case, a haircut with a small bang is necessary, i.e. it is not recommended to increase the volume of the hairstyle in the forehead area).
8. Occipital width. A triangular edging of hair on the neck visually reduces the width of the back of the head, and a straight one increases it.
Section 2. Technological part
2.1 Tools, equipment, devices used when performing modern model haircuts
2.1.1 General
The hairdressing tool is designed to perform various operations with hair (cutting, styling, etc.). All instruments used for hair treatment, according to their purpose, can be divided into three main types:
1) tools for combing hair;
2) hair cutting tools;
3) hair styling and curling tools.
The quality of work depends on the ability to use each type of hairdressing tool correctly. Therefore, the hairdresser must know all the hairdressing tools and be able to use them correctly.
The choice of tool for performing various operations depends on the task assigned to the hairdresser, i.e. the use of each tool allows you to get a certain effect, which determines his choice.
Various devices used in hairdressing salons help the master in his work, facilitate the performance of some operations and protect the client from unpleasant sensations.
The electrical equipment used in hairdressing is designed to dry hair and accelerate the chemical processes during dyeing and curling.
2.1.2 Combs
When cutting and styling your hair, you need to brush your hair to distribute it evenly. For this purpose, combs are used, the components of which are the backing and teeth. Combs vary in length, width and tooth frequency. Wide combs are used when working with wide strands of hair, small combs are used when working with small strands or when doing very short haircuts. The frequent spacing of the teeth causes a strong tension on the hair, which is not the case with the sparser spacing of the teeth.
According to the material from which the combs are made, they are divided into metal, wood, bone and plastic.
When combing wet hair, metal combs damage the outer scaly layer, causing the hair to become brittle, brittle and delaminate in two or more. Due to the fact that the master most often works with wet hair, the use of metal combs in hairdressing salons is strictly prohibited. Wooden combs are not harmful to hair, but they are not suitable for use in hairdressing salons.
Bone combs are very expensive and most often come in the form of combs and various clips for decorative purposes.
Plastic combs are the most common tool today. They differ in the quality of the plastic. All combs used for hairdressing must be made of high quality plastic with anti-static properties, and must be flexible and durable.
The famous Hercules company produces rubber combs that are very well sanded during processing and therefore practically do not damage the outer scaly layer of the hair. Their only drawback is fragility, that is, if pressed very hard, they can break.
Currently, combs made of silicone, which are particularly durable and safe, have found widespread use.
The combs used in hairdressing are always smooth, do not slip in the hand, have pronounced angles, while ordinary combs slide in the hand, have an oval shape and magnetize the hair during the combing process.
According to their purpose, all combs can be divided into four main types.
1. Combination comb is a comb on the working surface of which there are frequent and sparse teeth. It can be used to work in both the women's and men's gym. Small combs with a thinner back are more often used in the men's room. Combination comb - universal, used for combing, cutting, cold and hot styling, as well as for combing and dulling hair .
2. Comb with a uniform tooth arrangement. On its working surface there are only frequent or only rare teeth. Such combs are used for combing hair and cutting hair in the women's room.
3. Comb with pointed handle - ponytail comb. It is used when winding hair on curlers and bobbins, that is, where a clear division of hair into strands is necessary. This comb cannot be used when cutting hair.
4. A comb with an ordinary handle and a comb-fork are used for coloring and styling hair.
Brushes are also used to massage the scalp, comb and style the hair. They can have bristle teeth, plastic or metal teeth. It is preferable to use brushes with natural bristle teeth, as they are better for pulling hair during styling. There are two types of brushes: flat and round.
Flat brushes (fig. 1) are used for scalp massage and hair styling. The ends of the teeth of such brushes should have balls that serve to protect the scalp from scratching. With flat brushes during styling, the master lifts the hair at the roots to add volume to the hairstyle. Hairdrying with a flat brush is called "bombing".
Rice. 1 - Flat brushes
Round brushes (Fig. 2), called "brushing", are used in styling to shape the ends of the hair. Blow-dry with a round brush is also called brushing.
Rice. 2 - Round brushes "brushing"
All brushes must have sufficiently stiff bristles and a hollow base to allow free passage of air. The tooth height of the brush is not the same.
"Striper" is a type of combs for hair dyeing. With the help of these combs, such operations as highlighting and coloring are performed, especially on hair, the length of which is 25 - 30 cm. The "Striper" has a special nozzle, usually rectangular in shape with several holes. When combining the nozzle with the comb, its holes clearly coincide with the gaps between the teeth, therefore, when the dye is applied to the nozzle, it is located on the teeth of the comb itself at a certain distance. Then a strand of hair is combed. The teeth of the comb are positioned in such a way that the strand is enveloped in dye and compressed tightly, thereby excluding the possibility of staining the next strands.
Comb for highlighting and coloring. With this comb, highlighting and coloring are performed using special paper or foil. From the central axis of the comb, teeth extend in different directions, bent at the ends with a triangle, which allows them to pry on strands of hair. A comb can have up to four rows of teeth. Each row has a different distance between the teeth (from 3 to 10 mm). Depending on the desired result, a specific row of teeth is used.
The selected strand of hair is pulled perpendicular to the head, then the teeth of a certain row of the comb are inserted perpendicular to it and lifted by pulling the strands intended for dyeing at the same distance from each other. Next, the main strand is released, and the strands intended for dyeing remain raised.
Having placed special paper or foil under these strands, a dye is applied to them. This operation is performed on the entire head or partially in some of its areas.
2.1.3 Scissors
The scissors consist of three parts: two identical halves and a fastening screw. Each half of the scissors consists of a ring, a lever and a working blade. The working blade has a sting, an end and a back.
There are three types of hairdressing scissors: straight, thinning and flag.
Straight scissors (fig. 3) are intended for cutting hair, beard and mustache, as well as for thinning. They differ from ordinary (household) scissors in the quality of the steel from which they are made, in the angle of sharpening of the working blades, in the presence of sharp tips.
Rice. 3 - Straight scissors
Straight scissors can be with long, medium and short working blades. Long-blade scissors are most often used for haircuts in the men's room. Scissors with a medium working blade are universal and are used in both men's and women's halls. Scissors with a short working blade are used for work only in the women's room, since the cut of a strand when cutting women's hair is often made from the inside of the fingers.
Thinning scissors are used for thinning and shading hair. They are of two types: one-sided and two-sided. Double-sided thinning scissors have teeth on two working blades, and one-sided - only on one blade (Fig. 4). When using thinning scissors, the hair that falls between the teeth remains long, and the hair that falls on the teeth is cut off. Therefore, single-sided scissors cut more hair than double-sided scissors.
Rice. 4 - One-sided thinning scissors
Flag scissors (fig. 5) are used for simultaneous cutting and thinning of hair. One working blade of such scissors is either regular straight, or with fine teeth, like in thinning scissors, or with two wide teeth, and a nozzle with some pattern is put on the second working blade.
When cutting hair with such scissors, you can get strands with thinning of the ends of the hair according to the pattern of the nozzle, many short and long strands with a pattern at the ends of the hair, as well as short strands with lengthening at the edges and a pattern at the ends of the hair.
When working, the scissors are held on the first phalanges of the fingers of the right hand, while the thumb is in the lower ring, and the ring finger is in the upper ring.
The index and middle fingers are located on the upper arm of the scissors. Only the thumb works.
Rice. 5 - Flag scissors
2.1.4 Shavers
In hairdressing, two types of razors are used: hazardous and thinning.
Straight razors are designed for shaving the face and head, as well as for cutting and thinning hair. Straight razors are classic and with a variable blade, the so-called razors. A classic razor consists of two parts: a blade and a handle-case . The blade, in turn, consists of three parts: a working blade b, a neck with notches and ponytail . The working blade includes a backing, a head, a sting , heel and radius groove.
Depending on the shape of the working blade, there are razors with deep and shallow radius grooves. The deeper the radius groove, the thinner and sharper the razor blade.
Currently, classic razors are not used due to their inconsistency with sanitary and hygienic requirements.
Thinning razor , designed for cutting and thinning hair only, it consists of the following main parts: handle, safety comb, blade, fixing screw and guide pins. All parts of the razor can be made of plastic or metal. Combination razors made of plastic and metal are widely used. The safety comb has teeth on both sides (usually 7 - 9 pcs. On each side), which can be oblique and straight. The width of the safety comb together with the teeth is 6-8 mm wider than the width of the blade. The protruding teeth of the safety comb make the shaver safe.
2.1.5 Hairdressing accessories
For hairdressing work, the following devices are most often used.
Atomizer - for wetting hair when cutting and styling, as well as applying various lotions that create volume in the hairstyle.
Bowls - for the preparation of dyes, fixer for perm and other hair care products.
Brushes - for diluting and applying dyes and other preparations.
Shaker - for mixing dyes.
Sponges - for application chemical composition and fixer.
Clips plastic and metal - for dividing hair into zones and strands when cutting, styling, treatment and coloring.
Warming cap used for perm and hair treatment.
A mask used to fix the styling.
They also use a timer, special collars, hats for highlighting hair, beakers, rubber gloves and much more.
2.2 Technology for performing modern haircuts
2.2.1 Haircut using styling and color from Ciro Apicella
Highlight the parietal area with a circular zigzag parting.
Starting at the back of the head, select large sections of hair and trim them using the "slicing" technique.
Using the trimmed section as a guide, continue trimming the entire length of the hair.
Go to the crown and select the guide strand. 6
Trim your hair at the top of your head, gradually decreasing its length to give your hair a light touch.
Dry your hair when finished.
Then work the ends of the hair with the tips of the scissors to make it more fluffy.
2.2.2 Everyday style
"Daily" - style - an idea for every day. Clear geometric lines of the hairstyle are designed to emphasize the decisiveness of the character
Select vertical sections of 2 cm each on two levels of the hairstyle.
Having formed vertical sections, trim the hair, the occipital zone, using the "slicing" technique.
Trim your frontal hair from ear to ear.
If necessary, trim the back of the neck again and comb through the sections left intact.
Our choice is blonde with all its shades, from neutral to platinum, from copper to gold. Original combinations of warm tones that emphasize the clarity of the lines will help to add additional dynamics to the hairstyle.
2.2.3 Grotesque
Start cutting from the back of the head. Separate the strands with horizontal parting and pull them off at an angle of 20 °.
Trim the temporal areas in the same way.
Using the "ponting" method, trim the hair of the parietal zone, separating the strands with vertical parting.
Perform the final thinning.
2.2.4 Haircut with zigzag bangs
Treat the hair of the temporolateral zone by pulling it back in side perpendicular to the surface of the head, using the pointcut technique, and then go to the occipital region and cut it to the middle.
Treat the opposite side of the head in the same way.
Connect the hair with the hair of the frontal parietal zone using the "zigzag" technique.
To arrange the bangs also using the "zigzag" technique.
Run the back of the head.
2.2.5 Sport haircut
Separate the strand on the parietal zone and set its length. This strand will be the control one. Then trim the parietal and lateral zones.
Cut the occipital and temporo-lateral zones with vertical parting. The occipital area can be trimmed "to naught" or left slightly elongated for greater splendor.
Make edging, hair length behind the ears - optional.
Moisten the hair well and use the sliding technique to cut it under a comb with a razor all over the head.
Use simple scissors to process the entire hairstyle using a scalloped, uneven cut. The resulting effect of a drop in hair length makes the haircut easier. Create a "rough" effect using the same cutting technique. Dry your hair with a hairdryer. For styling, you can use a gel.
Conclusion
In conclusion, let's summarize the main results. term paper.
Thanks to the emerging new silhouettes and forms of haircuts, hairstyles, a person gains hope to meet the criteria of modern fashion.
In the process of writing a term paper, I studied new methods used when performing modern haircuts.
Based on the material studied, the following conclusions can be drawn.
In my opinion, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of the client's face, you can choose a haircut for him using any of the described methods of performing a haircut. And this haircut will delight him with its novelty and originality.
In my opinion, the progress of hairdressing is possible thanks to the use of completely new modern methods of performing haircuts.
Bibliography
1.O.N. Kuleshova, O.B. Iltaeva, T.N. Butko "Basics of Hairstyle Design" - M., 2004.
2. E. Kurmanaevskaya. "My own hairdresser." - Rostov-on-Don, 2004.
3. N.G. Moiseev. Hair Art. - Rostov-on-Don, 2004.
4. Catalog of hairstyles "Estetica" №1 / 2005 (15).
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term paper added 05/23/2014
The history of the emergence of women's haircuts. Features of the hairdresser's workplace. The process of performing a creative haircut. Tools and devices used when cutting. Disinfection of instruments. Haircut "Cap" in the style of "unisex".
term paper added 01/11/2015
The history of the formation and development of the art of hairstyle from Ancient Egypt to the present day. The connection of historical hairstyles with modern ones. Hair structure, types, cutting and styling methods, coloring, care rules. Tools of the master hairdresser. Haircut technology.
test, added 11/20/2010
The history of hairstyles in Russia. Stylish haircuts of 2010: graduated and asymmetrical. Men's haircuts: "Half-box", "Boxing", "Voyage", "Creative" hat. Women's haircuts: "Sessun", "Page", "Gavroche", "French". Basic hairdressing tools.
Quote post Haircut techniques (part 1)
1. In the section "Tools" hairdressing supplies are listed. Each tool is given short description, application, and advice on how to choose a tool
2. Section "Head zones" contains information on how to divide the scalp when performing haircuts
3. In the section "Cutting techniques" the most common hairdressing techniques are described. Here it is detailed what exactly needs to be done and what should come of it.
4. In a small section "Forms of temples" shows the design of the temples in men's and women's haircuts
5. In the section "Basic haircuts" posted a description of the four main haircuts, on the basis of which you can come up with many variations
6. After mastering the methods of performing basic haircuts, you can proceed to the section "Haircuts made on the basis of basic"
"On a note"- this is the name of the section with various tips that might come in handy
In chapter "How to choose the right hairstyle"- which haircuts are best suited to which type of face
Partial discoloration of hair strands - highlighting
Perms... Their types, necessary accessories, process of implementation, advice.
The methods for performing haircuts for men and women are the same. Sometimes even the haircuts themselves are the same. For example, there are fans of haircuts among men. "Kare" or "Italian women"... It also describes how to make such popular men's haircuts as "Boxing" , "Polka" , "Favorite"
Hairdresser tools
In connection with the development of hairdressing technologies, the tools used by the hairdresser are constantly being improved, and new ones also appear. First you need to have a minimum set of tools that will allow you to get started. Let's list them:
Combs
We need three types of combs, each of which performs specific functions:
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Brushes
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Scissors
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Advice: when choosing scissors, you need to make sure that the scissors blades fit snugly together. To do this, you need to look at the light, there should be no gap. Work with the scissors, their stroke should not be too tight or too loose. It is better to store scissors in a case.
Curling Tools
Advice: frequent use of curling iron negatively affects hair. To reduce damage to your hair, you can moisten it with hair lotion, foam or mousse before curling it up. The same means are fixing. Do not use curling irons for several days after a perm, as this leads to hair damage
Tool processing
Tools must be processed after each haircut. Plastic tools are treated with a solution of chloramine B (one teaspoon of chloramine B per 1 liter of water), immersing them in the solution for 15-20 minutes. The working table is wiped with the same solution. Metal tools are best treated with alcohol.
Head zones
Before starting any haircut or hairstyle, you should divide your hair into zones. The strands of each zone must be twisted into bundles and fastened with clamps. After that, the strands are cut directly in the zones.
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The boundaries of the zones must be flat.
Haircut methods
Graduation:
- When graduating inward (haircuts based on "Kare"), to give a rounded silhouette, the first strand is taken from the outermost hairs of the lower occipital zone, clamped between the index and middle fingers, stretched along the neck and an even cut is made on the inside of the fingers. The second strand is clamped together with the first and cut 5-7 mm longer, while the strands are taut and the fingers rest on the neck. The next strands above are cut in the same way. As a result, the top (covering) strand is several centimeters longer than the lowest strand. At the same time, the ends of the strands will be bent inward. This method allows you to achieve a rounded silhouette of the haircut.
- When grading outward ("false bob" haircut), the first strand is trimmed in the same way as described above. The second strand is combed out together with the first, clamped between the index and middle fingers and pulled towards itself at an angle to the neck (for example, 30-45 degrees). The difference in the length of the first and subsequent strands depends on this angle. Each subsequent strand is cut flush with the previous strand, observing the original angle. As a result, the top (opaque) strand is slightly shorter than the lowest strand. The ends of the strands are directed outward.
Hair removal on fingers- the hair is cut to the same length, the length of the control strand (haircuts based on "Italian"). With this method, the strands are pinched between the index and middle fingers, pulled and cut. Cutting hair from the outside or from the inside of the palm depends on which area we are cutting. For example, when cutting hair in the occipital zones, the palm is facing itself, and the cut is made from the inside of the palm. And when cutting the parietal zone, the palm is facing the head and therefore the cut is made from the outside of the palm
Filirovka- thinning strands. It is performed with double-sided and single-sided thinning scissors, thinning razors, as well as ordinary scissors. Thinning gives the haircut pomp and volume. Sometimes, thanks to her, it is possible to hide minor defects in the haircut. Thinning makes the cut lines smooth. Distinguish between near-end and root thinning
Finishing ends
| a) Horizontal thinning: a strand of hair is taken, stretched with the free hand between the index and middle fingers, and then with thinning scissors, stepping back from the end of the strand, a part of it is cut across (3-5 mm maximum). Thinning the ends creates splendor at the ends of the hair | |
| b) Vertical thinning: with the free hand we deflect the strand to the side by about 30 degrees, the thinning scissors should be held vertically, with the cloth down. Do not be afraid to close the canvases to the end, because the slits on them cut off a small part of the hair. For example, when performing a bob haircut using vertical thinning, you can achieve a more rounded silhouette of the haircut | |
| c) The "teeth" method: performed with ordinary scissors. The strand is pulled and cut at the end with cloves about 0.5 cm high | |
| Root thinning: the strand stretched with fingers is cut with thinning scissors in several stages. The first haircut is done across the strand, starting at the base of the hair. The second is approximately in the middle. The third is closer to the end of the strand. When using this method, the splendor of the hair at the roots is achieved. |
Edging: the final stage of the haircut. The edging gives the haircut a finished look. In short haircuts, it is performed on the bangs, temples, behind the ears, on the neck. In the lower occipital area, hair often grows in different ways. It happens that they grow asymmetrically, directed upwards or form vortices. Correct hair growth is considered when the hair grows evenly towards the neck, spreading over its entire back surface. When choosing a haircut that opens the lower occipital zone, hair growth must be taken into account. The direction of the edging affects the final result of the work. For example, if you trim the bangs, cutting the strand from right to left (or vice versa), then a straight line of the bangs will not work; bangs need to be cut from the middle of the forehead to one side and from the edge of the bangs to the middle. Similarly, the edging of hair strands in the lower occipital zone is performed when performing haircuts of medium length and long. When making out the length of the hair, you can offer the client an edging with an angle, oval or even
Temple shapes
male:
female:
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Haircuts made on the basis of basic
Performing a haircut "Square"
2. Now we turn to cutting the parietal and temporal zones. Smoothly comb the hair on one side of the vertical parting, make an even horizontal cut at the level of the already trimmed occipital zones. Do the same on the other side.
3. Check the symmetry of the haircut: a) Stand facing the client and comb the hair lying to the right and left of the vertical parting dividing the parietal zone forward. Compare their length. It should be the same; b) when combing your hair in different directions, make sure that there are no sharp changes in hair length. Ask the client to shake their head. This will reveal all the inaccuracies of the haircut.
4. At the request of the client, cut the bangs. To do this, separate and comb out a section of hair approximately 10 mm thick over your face. The width of the strand should be equal to the width of the forehead. After asking the client about the desired length of the bangs, start cutting from the middle to one edge, and then from the other edge to the middle. The bangs are edged straight or in the form of a half-open horseshoe. You can frame the side strands by cutting them in steps, for this you need to pull the strands forward, put the scissors vertically and make a smooth cut from top to bottom. In order for the bangs and side strands to look better, you need to make a near-end thinning
Performing a haircut "False square"
Comb the hair in the direction of its growth. Divide the hair into the following zones: carry out the frontal-parietal parting, divide the parietal zone in half with a vertical parting. Twist the strands with a tourniquet and secure with ducks
When performing the "False bob" haircut, the outward graduation method is used.
1. The haircut starts from the lower occipital zone. Separate the outer strand at the neck (strand thickness approximately 10 mm), comb it according to the hair growth and determine the length of the future haircut. Make a straight cut. This strand will be the control one. The second strand is combed out together with the first, clamped between the index and middle fingers and pulled towards itself at an angle to the neck (for example, 30-45 degrees). The difference in the length of the first and subsequent strands depends on this angle. Each subsequent strand is cut flush with the previous strand, observing the original angle. As a result, the top (opaque) strand is slightly shorter than the lowest strand. The ends of the strands are directed outward. Using this method, cut the hair of the lower and upper occipital zones in a row to the front-parietal part
2. Now we turn to cutting the parietal and temporal zones. Smoothly comb the hair on one side of the vertical parting, make an even horizontal cut at the level of the already trimmed occipital zones. Do the same on the other side. In order for the ends of the strands to bend outward, they must be carefully profiled vertically.
3. Check the symmetry of the haircut: stand facing the client and comb the hair lying to the right and left of the vertical parting that separates the parietal zone forward. Compare their length. It must be the same
4. At the request of the client, cut the bangs. To do this, separate and comb out a section of hair approximately 10 mm thick over your face. The width of the strand should be equal to the width of the forehead. After asking the client about the desired length of the bangs, start cutting from the middle to one edge, and then from the other edge to the middle. Bring the bangs straight. In order for the bangs to look better, you can perform a near-end thinning.
Haircut "Italian"
Performing a haircut:
| 1. Start cutting from the parietal zone. On the frontal-parietal part, separate the control strand with a thickness of about 10 mm. We comb it out perpendicular to the head, squeeze it between the index and middle finger and cut from the outside of the fingers. So strand by strand we cut the entire parietal zone, stretching the strands towards ourselves. At the same time, as you get closer to the bangs, the strands become longer. | |
| 2. The hair of the upper and lower occipital zones, separated by a U-shaped parting, starting from the upper occipital zone and gradually going down to the end of the lower occipital zone, pull strand by strand to the control strand, which is strictly perpendicular to the head, and cut from the outside of the fingers | |
| 3. The hair of the temporal and lateral zones is combed up to the control strand and cut along it |
6. The edging of hair length can be made with a corner, oval or straight.
7. Styling is done on curlers, on a curling iron or a hairdryer
Haircut "Hat"
| 1. Separate the temporo-lateral zones with a height of 4-5 cm. Longitudinally divide each zone in half. We comb out the outer strand on the ear and arrange, in accordance with the client's desire, either a regular oblique or a model temple. Behind the ear, we carry out the edging, making a smooth vertical cut. Depending on how the client wants, you can either open the ear completely, or cover it halfway with a strand of hair, but in any case, the outline of the temples should be clear. The next strand of the temporo-lateral zone is combed out to the already trimmed and trimmed along it. To make the temple fit well and look graceful, you can slightly profile it vertically. Profile also the strand of hair above the ear (if the haircut is performed on the half-ear) and behind it | |
| 2. Separate the lower occipital zone (with a horizontal parting from ear to ear through the occipital protuberances). We twist the hair of the upper occipital zone into a tourniquet and pin it. Separate the strand on the left or right with a vertical parting, clamp it between the index and middle fingers and cut from the outside of the fingers. This is the control strand. So, separating strand by strand with vertical parting, we cut the entire lower occipital zone under the control strand | |
| 3. Option: the lower occipital area can be trimmed by shading. |
4. Divide the parietal zone with a vertical parting in half (from the middle of the forehead to the front-parietal part). We comb it and the upper occipital zone smoothly along the hair growth. We cut the hair of these zones with an even cut round, choosing a length up to
top edge or to the middle of the ear. It is better to first cut from one side to the middle of the back of the head, and then from the other to the middle of the back of the head.
5. To align the right and left sides of the parietal zone, comb out the side hairs forward (on the face) and trim
6. To make the cutting lines smooth, profile the ends of the strands of the parietal and upper occipital zones vertically, as well as trim the already trimmed lower occipital zone with thinning scissors
7. Cut your bangs and profile them
8. Fold the lower occipital area evenly or, using the "teeth" method, arrange "torn" strands on the neck
Haircut "Bob-caret"
1. We divide the hairline into zones: with a vertical parting, we divide the parietal zone in half
2. We carry out the frontal-parietal parting.
3. Separate the lower occipital zone with a parting from ear to ear through the occipital protuberances. We twist the strands of each zone into bundles and stab them with ducks
| 2. We pass to a haircut of the upper occipital zone. We cut it by the graduation method, directed inward. We separate the strand (it will be the control one), put it on the shortly trimmed lower occipital zone, determine the length and cut it. Haircut "Bob-square" can be cut with an angle: on the back of the head the hair is shorter, and as it approaches the face, it gradually lengthens. If the hair cut in this way is combed back, then the bob line will form an arc. Cut the control strand taking into account this arc. Comb out the next strand to the control one and cut it 3-5 mm longer. In this way, we cut the entire upper occipital zone. "Bob-bob" can be cut evenly (without a corner). In this case, the task of the wizard is simplified. |
3. In the temporal zone, we continue the line of the square. But, without using the graduation, we cut with one cut
4. Checking the haircut - as in "Kare"
5. At the request of the client, you can cut the bangs
6. In order for the haircut to acquire a more rounded silhouette, slight vertical thinning is possible.
Haircut "French boy"
Haircut "Debut"
We divide the scalp into the following zones:
2. Now we turn to cutting the temporal zones. Smoothly combing the hair strands of one temporal zone, make an even horizontal cut at the level of the already trimmed occipital zones. Do the same on the other side.
4. At the request of the client, cut the bangs. To do this, separate and comb out a section of hair approximately 10 mm thick over your face. The width of the strand should be equal to the width of the forehead. After asking the client about the desired length of the bangs, start cutting from the middle to one edge, and then from the other edge to the middle.
5. You can frame the strands of the temporal zones adjacent to the face, cutting them with steps. To do this, the strands must be pulled forward, the scissors must be placed vertically and from top to bottom.
carry out a smooth cut. In order for these strands to look better, you need to make a near-end filing
Male haircuts
Haircut "Boxing"
The entire head is trimmed with a clipper without a nozzle, or with a nozzle No. 1. A sparse bang that reaches about the middle of the forehead may be left. Often performed without bangs
Haircut "Half box"
Hair of all zones, except for the parietal, is cut with a clipper without a nozzle, and the parietal zone with nozzle No. 1. "Long" version: all zones are cut with attachment # 1, and the parietal - with attachment # 2
Haircut "Polka"
3. The hair of the parietal zone is cut by the "finger hair removal" method. To do this, parallel to the edge line of hair growth, separate a strand of hair at the forehead with a horizontal parting, comb it out perpendicular to the head. We cut at a height of 3-4 cm from the roots
4. The hair of the upper occipital and temporo-lateral zones adjacent to the parietal zone is sheared on the fingers, separating them with vertical partings and trimming so as to provide a rounded smooth transition line from the short-cropped lower occipital and the beginning of the temporo-lateral zones to the elongated parietal zone
5. Select an attachment one less number and go over the already trimmed temporo-lateral and lower occipital zones, but do not cut them again, but make a border of shorter hair along the contour of the haircut (the height of the border in the temporal zone and above the ears is about 1 cm , in the lateral and lower occipital zones about 2 cm.Transition from this border to the hair located above should be smooth
6. Using a clipper without attachments, carefully follow the edging, clearly outlining the contours of the haircut. Draw a straight temple
Haircut "Favorite"
It is characterized by a lush volume in the parietal zone and a sharp transition line to the short-cropped lower occipital and temporo-lateral zones
2. Start cutting in the lower occipital area. We cut it by the method of "nullifying the hair", by the same method we cut the temporo-lateral zones. Instead of shading, you can use a machine with a nozzle No. 2
4. Check the symmetry of the haircut. Comb together the strands lying to the right and left of the vertical parting and compare their length
5. Small inaccuracies in the haircut can be corrected with thinning scissors.
6.Using a typewriter without attachments or manually, make the edging of the lower occipital and temporo-lateral zones
On a note
- Holding the scissors correctly is a bit of getting used to. Reminder: Hold the scissors so that one scissor ring is fixed with the pad of your thumb and the other with the pad of your ring finger. And if there is an amplifier, then there is a little finger on it
At first, this arrangement of the fingers will seem very uncomfortable. But it is optimal, because in this position the hand is relaxed and even with prolonged work practically does not get tired, and the load on the joints and tendons is the smallest. To get used to it faster - during the day it would be good to take scissors several times and click them
There is another way to hold the scissors. It is used when the scissors are temporarily out of work, and a comb comes into play, and both tools are in the right hand, since the left is busy holding the strand. So: remove the thumb from the ring, and, on the contrary, push the ring finger into the ring and press the scissors with it to the palm. In the same hand, take a comb-tail, separate the strand with its teeth and comb it out. With your left hand, grasp a strand between your index and middle fingers, pull it, determine the length, then shift the comb to your left hand and press it with your thumb. Return the thumb of your right hand to the scissor ring and cut the strand in several steps. Then again remove the thumb from the ring, take the comb in your right hand, part with the teeth and separate the next strand. Clamp it between the index and middle fingers of your left hand, pull it, determine the length of the strand, transfer the comb to your left hand, press it with your thumb. Insert your thumb into the ring of scissors and trim this section. Such manipulations require a certain skill and sleight of hand. All this is given by practice. It is clear that when performing a haircut, the left hand serves to pull the strands. The comb, during operation, moves from the right hand to the left and vice versa.
In the process of work, try not to put any comb or scissors on the table, to hold the tools in your hands
- You should treat your hands with care, when working with water, with household chemicals, wear rubber gloves, lubricate your hands with nourishing cream at night
Make your arms flexible and your fingers more flexible. simple exercises and massage. Doing them between times, at least a couple of times a day, and this will help develop your hands
The simplest exercises: start with intense rubbing of palms against each other, then rub the hands and each finger separately with rubbing movements, moving from the base to the tips. Several times intensely, at a fast pace, clench your fingers into fists and unclench. Rotate with brushes 5-6 times, first in one direction, then in the other direction. Clasp your hands in the lock and rotate the hands in the joints. Keeping your hands in the lock, turn them out with your palms away from you, then return them to their original position, repeat several times. These exercises and massage will increase the blood flow to the hands, increase the elasticity of the ligaments, and make the joints more mobile.
A haircut is one of the most difficult jobs in hairdressing. Indeed, the appearance of the future hairstyle depends on how well it will be performed.
When performing haircuts, the hairdresser must be able to apply different methods of hair treatment.
Before doing a haircut, it is necessary to correctly divide the hair into strands with partings, which will determine the shape of the future haircut. Partings are horizontal, vertical, radial and radial.
Horizontal partings are partings parallel to the floor plane.
Vertical partings are partings directed perpendicular to the floor.
Radial partings run at an angle of 45 ° to vertical or horizontal parting and allow you to get the maximum increase in hair length when cutting.
Beam partings are partings coming out of one point.
All haircuts can be divided into contrasting and non-contrasting.
Mostly haircuts are contrasting, i.e. These are haircuts in which the hair has different lengths on different parts of the head.
At non-contrasting haircuts leave the hair the same length on different parts of the head.
Each type of haircut consists of separate technical operations. Depending on the specific model, the following methods, haircut techniques, can be used when cutting.
Modern methods and techniques for cutting hair
Modern thinning methods with scissors
1. Zigzag sawing method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, the scissors are held vertically and cut off the required length of hair in a zigzag.
2. The injection method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, point cuts of individual hairs are made with the ends of the scissors, creating an undercoat.
3. The plucking method. Can be performed with the ends of the scissors in a sliding motion both above and below the fingers.
4. Sliding cut. It is performed with thinning scissors, which glide smoothly through the hair.
5. Thinning on the twisted strand. A small strand is twisted with a flagellum and cut in several places with the ends of scissors.
6. Fleece method. The strand is perpendicular to the head, the open canvases of the scissors are inserted into it and a movement from top to bottom is performed.
Razor thinning
Scraping. The hair is divided into zones in accordance with the cutting lines, the razor is guided towards the ends of the hair in front of the comb. This method is performed if the hairstyle requires a more tight fit of the hair to the head (only on curly coarse hair).
Tumirovka. The comb is positioned with the teeth up and combs her hair. The razor moves parallel to the comb in the opposite direction.
Slip. The hair is combed with a comb, the razor glides smoothly through the hair towards the ends.
The fleece method. The strand is perpendicular to the head, the razor moves from the ends to the roots, imitating a fleece (flagellum).
Blunt cut with a razor. On the twisted strand, pull off small strands perpendicularly, twist them into a bundle, cut the ends off with a razor.
Thinning of the twisted strand using the "scraping" method. We separate the strand in the form of a square, twist it, pull it perpendicular to the head and cut it in the direction towards the ends with undercutting movements.
Modern methods of hair treatment
Pointcat(point cut) - a point toothed cut from the ends of the hair to the middle (for thinning).
Polishing- point toothed cut from the middle of the strand to the ends.
Pointing- sliding toothed cut from the middle of the hair to the ends (with straight scissors):
Ponting - a serrated cut sliding from the ends of the hair to the middle to a dry (more obtuse angle);
Pancropping - a sliding toothed cut from the ends of the hair to the middle to dry (possible on wet hair) (sharper).
Slicing(clithing) - a sliding cut with straight scissors from the hair roots to its ends, the angle is 30-60 °.
When styling the hair upwards, slicing is performed from the outside, and downwards from the inside.
Modern haircut techniques
Neo-minimalism - simple haircuts with straight scissors, without serrated cuts and thinning. A minimum of details and a simple shape (square).
Geometric- geometric shapes, details, hair cutting.
Corridors- non-connecting parts. It is cut by the method of straight scissors. Corridors are of different lengths, they can be located in parallel or in a checkerboard pattern.
Non-joining connected parts- not connected in the form, but connected in the image.
Factors influencing the choice of haircut
Choosing the right haircut will allow the hairdresser to correct the flaws in appearance and pay attention to its advantages. Choosing a haircut as the basis for a hairstyle, it is necessary to take into account the individuality of a person's appearance, as well as the existing anatomical features, i.e. the choice of a haircut is determined by the following factors.
1. Head and face shape. Due to the fact that the shapes of the male head and the female head are different, haircuts are also different: angular lines prevail in men's haircuts, and rounded in women's.
2. Dimensions. Shoulder width, height, build, etc.
3. Hair Growth Border. In men, for example, the hairline on the neck is lower than in women, and the frontal notches are more pronounced.
4. The type and characteristics of hair growth. Most often, the difficulties of performing a haircut are observed on the crown, in the frontal and occipital parts of the head.
5. Hair density. Hair density is different in different areas of the head. There is usually less hair density behind the auricle, in the lower occipital region, as well as in the areas of the frontal notches and the crown. When choosing a haircut, this must be taken into account.
6. Forehead height. For example, a high forehead should be covered with bangs.
7. Profile. There are three types of profile: straight (ideal), which does not require correction; convex - with a protruding middle part (in this case, the volume of the hairstyle on the forehead must be increased); concave - with a protruding chin (in this case, a haircut with a small bang is necessary, i.e. it is not recommended to increase the volume of the hairstyle in the forehead area).
8. Occipital width. A triangular edging of hair on the neck visually reduces the width of the back of the head, and a straight one increases it.
Scissors, a clipper, and a comb are used to cut hair. When cutting, the clipper and comb are set against hair growth. The cutting procedure resembles the procedure for shaving the head, that is, they cut successively strip by strip. The width of the strip corresponds to the width of the stationary plate of the machine or to a certain grip of the hair with the teeth of the comb.
Pupils usually get very tired hands, especially the right one. To avoid this, you need to train long and hard, systematically performing finger exercises.
When cutting with a clipper or scissors with a comb, hold the comb in your left hand (on the narrow side of the back with your thumb, and on the side of the teeth with your index and ring fingers). When cutting with scissors over a comb, skillful use of the comb is required, since it is continuously in operation and it performs many operations. In this case, the thumb rests on the edge of the comb, and the index finger rests on the teeth. The rest of your fingers are holding the comb.
It is imperative for students to be able to distinguish and define haircuts.
It is possible to cut "bald" with a machine of any size, while the hair is completely removed from the head.
To nullify- means to make a smooth, inconspicuous haircut from very short hair to longer (Fig. 19).
Rice. 19. Reduction of hair with a hair clipper. a - without a comb; b - with combs lining
"Tushovka" always accompanies a "no" haircut. This is the same operation, but shading is used to achieve a subtle, beautiful transition from the neck to the parietal part of the head.
There is also a special technique for cutting hair "to no" - "smoky transition". It is distinguished by exceptional filigree work, a fine and skillful line of hair transition, reminiscent of spreading smoke (Fig. 20).
Rice. 20. "Smoky Passage"
If the haircut is done poorly and the master has not been able to correct the hair "to naught", "stairs" are formed.
"Edging" is the most common term for trimming the edge of the hair when cutting.
Filirovka used for thinning hair. It is performed with special tools - thinning scissors or a thinning razor. Hair cutting "on the toes" is used when shaping the crown of the head. The hair with the comb is grabbed by a strand between the fingers so that part of the previous strip is in it. Trim the hair above the toes. Such a haircut requires special precision and calculation.
Playground- this term is used for haircuts "beaver" and "square". This is a brush-like, flat section of hair that resembles a pad.
"Grinding"- the final operation for many haircuts when a final finish is required.
Let's consider the practical implementation of some of the processes.
When blending hair the machine is installed at the edge of hair growth in the middle of the neck (behind the head). This process is carried out on weight, therefore, to give stability to the machine, hold the left edge of the lower fixed comb of the machine with the index or middle fingers of the left hand.
The shading begins by grabbing the sparsely growing hair on the neck. As you move on to cutting thicker hair, it is necessary to gradually retract the teeth of the machine. The longer the hair, the more abruptly the machine is deflected. At the same time, the comb is held in the left hand, pressing it with the thumb to the palm of the hand. As needed, it is brought into working position.
After shading the captured strip, the master must comb the cut hair with a comb "at the bottom. If the strip is worked out well and evenly, without" ladders ", the master proceeds to shading the next strip of the frame, gradually moving to the left side of the head.
Correct shading represents an almost imperceptible transition from the neck to the parietal part of the head. Moreover, a strict sequence and gradualness of the length of the hair left is observed: if at the very beginning in the lower part of the neck through short-cropped hair the skin shines through, then the higher to the crown, the longer the hair and the less visible the gaps.
If the strip is cut unevenly, then the shading is repeated a second or even a third time. In these cases, areas of poorly blown hair are combed off with a comb, picking up the missed hair on the teeth, and cutting them from above with a clipper at the level of the previously cut hair.
A well-done shading can smooth out many defects in the shape of the head. Customers with a highly elongated head or head irregular shape with a noticeable bump on the back of the head, you should leave the hair longer, for which the shading is done with scissors. When determining the height of the carcass, the shape of the client's neck, the size and shape of the ears, the size of the occipital protuberance and other features of the structure of the head, as well as the shape of the haircut are taken into account. If the haircut is short in front and behind, then the shading is made high, which evens out the convex areas of the head. If the client asks to keep the hair long, the shading is usually done below the occiput. Hair of medium length is braided to the occipital protuberance or the middle of the ear concha.
The beauty and cleanliness of the carving largely depends on the number of the typewriter. It is recommended to shade light hair with type 2, then with type 1 and no. 000. Very rare light and dark hair is more convenient to shade with scissors, and hair of medium thickness, first with type 1, and then no. 000.
In the event that the hair on the neck grows from the bottom up, it should be cut against the growth. The final stage of shading the neck is carried out only with machine No. 000, regardless of the method of initial processing.
Carving with scissors starts also from the center of the neck, the master takes the scissors with the first holding technique and places them on top of the comb. They grab the hair at the edge of their growth and cut it with scissors over the comb, then slowly move the comb upward, while cutting off all the hair above the comb with frequent movements of the scissors.
Hair growing above the neck is thicker and longer. As the comb goes into thicker hair, it will need to be repositioned. The master should move the back of the comb away from the neck and in this position, moving upward, perform shading on the back. Moreover, the longer and thicker the hair, the farther from the skin the comb moves away from the skin until the hair captured by it is freed from the comb. The shading must be repeated until the desired result is achieved. If the shape of the haircut provides for long hair, then the shading is done not high from the neck.
To blend the lowest hair on the neck as short as possible, you need to use a comb with finer teeth. You need to shade the neck with the ends of the scissors, and the comb is placed for emphasis. The scissors should not be held parallel to the comb, because it interferes with the work and, in addition, stairs are inevitable, since the comb will slide out from under the scissors. In this case, the scissors need to be held somewhat obliquely in relation to the comb. The ends of the scissors, directed at an angle away from you, cut the hair of the right side of the mastoid neck and left temple, and the right temple and the left side of the neck to the mastoid process - with the ends of the scissors directed to the left, parallel to the comb. On other parts of the head (except for the right side of the neck, left temple and mastoid region), the hair is trimmed with scissors with a comb directed parallel to each other.
In conclusion of this section, we want to draw the attention of future masters to the fact that trimming hair with scissors under a comb is a responsible and complex detail in the cutting process.
Working with scissors with a comb and a clipper with a comb is not an easy process. It is necessary to develop the correct position of the body - do not bend your arms and legs, do not bend low to the client's head. You need to work out the correct and consistent movement of the scissors and combs on a blank without a wig. Then you can move on to training with a wig. Good practical skills for developing stable movements when cutting are also provided by training work with scissors and a comb on the weight.
Edging is made after shading each side of the head, with the scissors holding the screw head outward.
The edging line runs from one temple behind the ear along the neck to the other temple. The rate of hair trimming at the temple can be straight, oblique, semicircular, short or elongated. When choosing a form, you need to take into account the desire of the visitor.
When trimming the hair behind the ears, all the hair behind the auricle is combed down. Scissors are installed according to hair growth from top to bottom (from the auricle to the back of the head). There is also a second option, when the scissors are installed at the level of the left earlobe from bottom to top along the edge line of hair growth with the screw cut towards you. The ends of the scissors trim the hair along the line of its natural growth, forming an oval shape. Only the hair that goes over the hairless skin should be cut. In no case should you grab hair beyond the beginning of their growth. Holding the scissors with the fingers of the left hand, move them to the mastoid process. Having passed this area, remove the left hand from the scissors and bend the auricle with it, continuing the edging towards the temple (Fig. 21). When edging the left temple, the master stands in front of the visitor to the left and, holding the scissors with his left hand (to make the line more even), trims the hair along a horizontal or oblique line (depending on the shape). The hair of the temple must be cut all at once, that is, with one wave of scissors.
With short temples, the edging along the horizontal line is made at eye level. When choosing an undercut line, you can focus on the convex bone of the temple (hair is cut slightly above this bone).
Tanks and sideburns are called straight elongated temples. The vats have short hair, cut close to the skin. Sideburns have longer and generally fluffy hair. The tanks are edged along a horizontal line up to the corners of the lips, and with oblique temples, their corners fall below the incisions of the eyes. Oblique temples are edged with one oblique or oblique line, creating an acute angle.
Straight temples are edged with two lines - horizontal, at right angles, and vertical, passing near the auricle to its upper rounding.
The right temple is edged in the same way as the left. The difference is that the master goes to the right side of the chair. The level of edging, shape and length of the right and left temples should be exactly the same.
After the line of the edging of the temples has been developed, it is connected to the line of the rim of the ear and, moving with scissors down to the neck, they begin to fring the neck at the level of the earlobe or slightly below. The edging of the neck begins from the middle of the neck, first to the left ear, then to the right.
If the hair grows from the middle of the neck to the sides, then you need to fringe from the ears and the middle of the neck. When shaping the neck, the client's head should be in its normal natural position.
Haircut "on the fingers" performed on the crown after the haircut, shading and edging are finished *.
* (If the hairstyle requires combing the hair back, they are not cut "on the fingers", but steeply shaded.)
Correct grip of a strand of hair, its thickness, and even trimming depend on how well the strand is combed and pulled up and forward.
In a finger-style haircut, the master is behind the client and brushes all the hair forward onto the forehead. Then, picking up the first strand of hair with a comb in his right hand, the master grabs it with his left hand between the index and middle fingers and pulls it forward. Having determined the desired length of hair, the master cuts off their ends that protrude over the fingers of the left hand.
Not only students, but even novice masters use this method to wound the fingers of the left hand with scissors. It is necessary to learn how to keep the fingers of the left hand in a bent position and cut only those hairs that are captured no further than the second bend of the index finger.
The hair is sequentially cut in strands, first from the middle of the forehead to the crown, and then from the forehead to the right to the temple. When processing the left side of the head, the master moves to the left side, facing the visitor; grabbing the hair at the forehead, the master combs it away from himself towards the crown and in this state transfers it to the left hand. A haircut on the fingers ends with trimming the hair on the forehead in two ways: when cutting with a parting, comb the parting and, pressing the hair with the left hand to the forehead, cut it parallel to the eyebrows,
If there is no parting, the hair is combed forward and cut along the forehead "on the toes". Hair on other parts of the head is cut from right to left. Regardless of where the hair is cut, you need to grab it in thin strands.
When the next strand for a haircut is captured, part of the hair of the previously cut strand (or the previous strip) is grabbed along with it and only those hairs that are longer than the cut are cut. This achieves a uniform cut at the same level.
Hair is removed "on the fingers" regardless of the parting, and the length of the hair should be the same everywhere. Starting a haircut "on the fingers", the master holds in his right hand both a comb and a pair of scissors. Comb - with thumb and forefinger, and scissors with one ring are put on the ring finger, and the other ring is clamped in the palm of your hand.
The position of the scissors and comb changes very quickly during subsequent operations. Once the hair is in the left hand, the comb is also transferred to the left hand between the thumb and forefinger. The released thumb is inserted into the free ring of scissors. Once the hair has been cut, the left thumb is again removed from the scissor ring. They are clamped in the palm, and the comb goes into the right hand, with which the hair is combed back onto the forehead, then grabbed and transferred to the left hand.
Filirovka- this is a way of cutting all over the head or in its individual areas, when, while maintaining the length of the hair, they are made less often (thick hair is cut). This is done with thinning scissors, a razor, and regular scissors (Fig. 22).
Long hair can be conveniently cut with simple scissors. The master separates the desired strand of hair, combs it and transfers it to the left hand between the index and middle fingers. The hair is stretched and then milled, that is, with the tip of the open scissors, they slide along the stretched hair from the ends to the roots in such a way that the hair, bumping into the tip of the scissors (by the way, they are slightly closed), is cut along the length in different places. When the scissors return to their original position, that is, from the roots to the ends, the blade of the scissors is opened wide so as not to touch the hair or cut it off.
Thinning scissors are much easier to work with (Fig. 23), since the hair does not pinch the left hand, grab a strand of hair and bring the lower blade of the open scissors under it (they are held in the right hand with a screw slot away from you, with the ends to the left). Squeezing the blade tightly, cut off the hair, stepping back from the roots by 3-4 cm. You cannot cut off the hair at the very root.
When thinning with a razor, cutting the hair along a pulled strand, the blade should slide very easily, removing hair from right to left 3-4 cm from the roots. At the same time, the razor moves along an oblique line.
Thinning is absolutely necessary for very thick hair... In this case, the hair is parted into the lower and upper rows. So that the hair of the upper row does not interfere, they are laid and the lower row is milled. Having processed it, they take a new section of hair, also divide it with a parting, etc. This is done until all the hair is profiled.
Cutting hair with scissors over a comb, like many other works, is done in strips. The width of the strip is approximately equal to the grip of the hair with the comb and scissors, and the length of the strip is from the neck to the crown of the head. Usually the first strip is cut, then the one next to it on the right, etc.
The comb is constantly moving slowly against the growth of the hair, and the angle of its deflection from the skin changes depending on the length of the hair.
Long hair should be constantly pulled back with the comb to make it easier to cut at some distance from the scalp.
For some young masters, when cutting long hair, "stairs", "ledges", etc. are often obtained, since they pull only the lower hair with a comb, and the upper ones remain in a bent position.
Sometimes, when cutting long hair, you have to grab a large section of hair with a comb at once. In such cases, you can apply the "juggling" method: closed scissors are brought under the layer of the taken strand and they raise the layer, making it convex. Then the hair is pulled back and the ends are cut off.
There are often cases when in the same area you have to "juggle" the hair several times until all the hair on the comb straightens.
When clipping, you often need to comb your hair down the length of your hair to determine how evenly cut it is.
After the first strip, they start cutting the second strip, focusing on the length of the hair of the trimmed half. To do this, grab a part of this strip with a comb and make a further haircut at its level.
Then they move on to cutting the third strip (on the right), located near the ear shell. The haircut is done with the second method of holding the scissors and comb. The hair is captured only by the end of the comb (about 1 cm), and the rest of the comb is set aside so that it does not touch the hair growing further from the edge. Using this technique, the master can capture more hair near the ear, and the farther from the ear, the less.
In the process of cutting, it is necessary to comb the hair in the direction from the crown to the ear, so that it is easier to grab it with a comb and you can see how much it needs to be cut. If the combed hair extends 1 cm onto the hair-free skin, then it must be cut to this length.
The light stripe, which reveals the shading of the hair around the ear, should be no more than 1 cm wide (on the back, on the neck, its width with a short haircut is 2-4 cm, and with a long one - 1-2 cm). Above this strip, the hair is left long.
After shading the edges of the hair behind the ear, continue cutting the third strip. Hair that grows above the edge is trimmed, proceeding to the first technique of holding a comb and scissors. To do this, bring the right hand with scissors from above behind the ear, grab the hair with a comb beyond the cut edge (against their growth) and cut it.
When you have finished trimming the hair strip on the back of your ear, you should trim the hair at your temple. Observing the rules of hair reduction "to naught", you need to pry under them closed scissors, lift and put a comb. At the same time, you should not push the comb deep into the hair, as its butt will prevent it from subtly reducing it to naught.
To finally finish shading on top of the ear, the master tilts the ear shell down with a comb or right hand, picks up the uncut hair and cuts it.
After making sure that the edges of the hair around the ear and temple are sufficiently cut, proceed to further haircut. Shading can be considered correct when the light line along the lower edge of the hair is even.
On the right side of the head, there is still a protrusion of hair above the temple. Here, the hair at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the edge should be brought to naught, and the rest of it should be gradually shaded towards the crown. To avoid cutting hair on the right and left sides of the head, it must be remembered that the hair here should be the same length as the hair of the back (first and second) stripes located at the same distance from the crown of the head. It is better to leave the hair in this place longer than to over-shorten it.
Having completely finished the haircut on the right side, proceed to the haircut on the left. The foreman stands behind the client and cuts a strip that lies next to the middle, already cut strip. Cutting strip after strip to the left, the master approaches the area near the left ear. Here, with his left hand, he brings the comb behind the ear from above and pushes it back a little, grabbing the edges of the hair. Having captured them, the master keeps the comb edge in one place, not pushing it forward and deflecting only the teeth.
At this point, the ear interferes with the work, especially its highest point, therefore, you should reject it with a comb, cutting the hair "to zero" in this position, and then proceed to cutting the hair above the ear - towards the crown.
When cutting hair on the left temple, the master stands in front of the client on the left side, applying the second technique of holding a comb and scissors. Once the trimming of the band around the ear is finished, the master goes back to the first technique of holding them in order to cut the hair that grows above the ear. Part of the hair that grows above the temple, on the ledge, is combed forward by the master, towards the face and, placing open scissors under them, cuts along the edge. This method completely replaces shading and is much easier.
After the haircut, the cut small hair is combed out, the sheet is removed from the visitor, the hair is moistened with cologne or eau de toilette, and the head is tied with a napkin (if the hairstyle needs to be fixed for a long time).
It is better to comb out fine cut hair if a thin layer of cotton wool is strung on the comb. Before removing the sheet, you should remove the napkin with cotton wool that is put behind the collar.
Hair is moistened with cologne from a spray bottle. After they are evenly moisturized, they are combed, taking into account the shape of the hairstyle.
The head is tied with a napkin in two ways. The master unfolds the napkin and, holding it by the opposite ends with both hands, lowers it on the client's head. In the middle of the forehead, the edge of the napkin is grasped with both hands, which are then transferred to the back of the head. Here, all four corners of the napkin are collected, two in each hand, pulled tightly on the visitor's head, and the ends are twisted with bundles from the bottom up. Moreover, the harnesses are tied with a knot so that this knot is located below the occipital protuberance, somewhat to the side, since otherwise the knot will prevent the visitor from taking a comfortable position while shaving.
In the second method, as in the first, the napkin is first applied to the forehead, the two front ends are pulled back and tied with a knot. The ends of the napkin below the knot are pulled downward to smooth out the resulting folds.
Remove the bandage in the reverse order, being careful not to disturb the hairstyle.
A well-chosen haircut transforms and changes the image. But you need to cut your hair not only in order to transform, it is also very useful for the hair. Hairdressers believe that you need to get a haircut at least once every 4 months.
It is not necessary to radically change the length of the hair; it is enough to even cut the ends by 1 centimeter. With a prolonged absence of a haircut, even healthy hair begins to split and fall out strongly.
This happens because the hair follicles weaken. People who cut regularly have healthier and fuller hair.
However, too frequent haircuts are not desirable, as the hair will become wavy and unruly.
There are techniques for medical haircuts. This is, for example, a haircut with hot scissors, which has a healing effect on the hair.
Haircuts can be divided into 2 groups:
- contrasting- sharp drops in hair length, broken lines, negligence and asymmetry.
- non-contrasting- smooth transitions, rounded lines, neatness and symmetry.
Haircut techniques
Hair reduction- a smooth transition is made from the longest hair (in the center) to the shortest (in the neck and temples). This technique is also called shading.
Filirovka- with the help of thinning scissors, the ratio of long and short hair is created, which is typical for a natural hairstyle. It is carried out along the entire length of the hair or on individual strands.
Edging- the edge of hair growth is emphasized, highlighting it with a sharp and clear line.
Graduation- the haircut is done in steps, at a certain angle.
Smoky transition- hair shading is done from the neck to the crown.
Grinding- Highlighted hairs are removed and unsuccessful strands are trimmed after the haircut is almost finished.
Playground- the hair is cut so that it forms a flat surface.
These are just some of the haircut techniques used by hairdressers.
Haircut techniques
Technique is a collection of techniques used in a haircut.
Minimalism- extreme clarity of lines. The shorter the hair, the better. Various geometric shapes are possible. Symmetry is desirable. The haircut looks neat and complete, unusual and eye-catching.
Romantic femininity- the complete opposite of minimalism. The lines are smooth, blurry, slightly sloppy. Geometric shapes are not desirable. The haircut looks natural, suitable for most women.
Constructivism- clarity of shapes and lines, geometry. As part of this technique, multi-layered haircuts are most often done. An important feature is the harmony and the perfect combination of all the elements of the haircut.
Conservatism- individualism, simplicity, elegance. Popular with business people.
Youth style- the limit of the avant-garde. A combination of incongruous, torn strands, sharp changes in length, broken lines, combining several types of techniques in one haircut. Such haircuts require careful styling.
There are over 100 haircut techniques. These are the most common.
Haircuts by type of face
Broad forehead can be hidden with bangs.
Wide cheekbones hide soft curls along the face.
Trapezoidal face . The angularity of the face can be mitigated by the lush volume around the parietal part of the head.
Rectangular face. Sharp corners can be softened by fluffy haircuts or curls. Different lengths of strands, shades of hair correctly selected to the color of the eyes, thick bangs, highlighting will help to distract from the shortcomings.
Square face . Asymmetric haircuts will do. Average hair length is desirable.
Triangular face. Short bobs and fluffy haircuts are suitable, which hide the upper part of the face, rounded at the cheekbones, which visually makes the lower part of the face wider.
Elongated face. Haircuts with curvaceous shapes on the sides of the head or long hair falling over the shoulders in wide waves are suitable.
Round face . Voluminous haircuts are recommended at the crown and with open ears and cheekbones on long or short hair.
A good, knowledgeable hairdresser will choose a haircut that will perfectly suit you and transform your look. Trust in the hands of professionals who know their business. After all, a haircut can radically change your appearance, both for the better and for the worse.
