How to process raspberries if the leaves are curled on top. Diseases and pests of raspberries. Description and methods of struggle and treatment. Raspberry Rust Prevention
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The fight against diseases and pests of raspberries should be given no less attention than other agro-methods that stimulate active growth and increase the productivity of shrubs. Gall midges, nutcracker, raspberry beetles, raspberries, and earthlings are especially harmful to raspberries. Among the diseases, the most dangerous are bacterial cancer, mosaic, rust, didimela and anthracnose.
Without knowledge of measures to combat diseases and pests of raspberries, it is impossible to get a good harvest of berries. On this page you can familiarize yourself with the description and see photos of diseases and pests most dangerous for shrubs.
Raspberry stem gall midge. It is widespread in southern and central Russia. It is a black mosquito (fly) only 1.5-2 mm long with a brown back and two transparent wings. The larvae are orange-yellow. They damage the stems of raspberries and blackberries, causing the formation of clearly visible swellings (galls) in the lower and middle part of the stem.
Larvae overwinter inside galls, 2-11 pieces in each. In the spring they continue to feed and, having reached a length of 3-4 mm, pupate, and at the end of May, during the flowering period of raspberries, adult mosquitoes appear, laying eggs on young shoots (8-15 pcs.). A month later, at the sites of damage, barrel-shaped gallic swellings are formed. They are especially noticeable in the fall, after the fall of the leaves. These swellings reach a length of 3 cm and a width of 2 cm. Cracks form on the galls, the skin on them lags behind. Above the damage, the shoot dries out or breaks off.
The insect can damage more than 70% of raspberry shoots. To combat this pest, raspberries are cut and burned in the spring and autumn damaged stems. It is necessary to cut off 2-3 cm below the gall-swellings, and not at the very base. When the bulge is located above 40-60 cm from the ground, berries can still be harvested on the remainder of the shoot.
How to treat raspberries from these pests in order to destroy the gall midge? Chemical spraying is carried out with one of the preparations ("Alatar", "Fufanon", "Inta-Vir" or "Iskra-M", "Actellik") during the flight of the pest and the laying of eggs. The growing shoots are sprayed below when the first flowers appear on last year's shoots. If the growth is dense, it is first thinned out, leaving no more than 10-12 pieces of the strongest per 1 m2. To protect raspberries from pests when spraying shrubs, it is advisable to alternate preparations.
Raspberry walnut damages raspberry stems; larvae, feeding on the tissues of the stem, cause swelling and cracking of the tissue. Infected shoots also break easily, bear less fruit or dry out. Outwardly differs from the stem gall midge in the size of the swellings, which reach a length of 10 cm. The measures for controlling these pests of raspberries are the same as for gall midges.
Raspberry shoot aphid. Distributed everywhere. It especially damages raspberries in shaded areas. Large colonies of aphids of this species inhabit the ends of shoots and inflorescences, causing curling of leaves, inhibition of growth, curvature of shoots, and shortening of internodes. Flowers on damaged shoots are underdeveloped and often dry out.
As you can see in the photo, the raspberry aphid pest is a very small, light green insect, covered with a waxy bloom:
Eggs of aphids overwinter on annual shoots near the buds. The pest hatches simultaneously with bud break. Colonies of aphids are formed when raspberry buds appear. Aphids are especially dangerous in dry years. Its harm is increasing as a carrier of viral diseases.
Aphid control can be carried out before flowering and after harvest with one of the above drugs.
Raspberry-strawberry weevil damages raspberries, strawberries and strawberries. On plants, pedicels are quite often found, which are devoid of buds. One gets the impression that someone cut the buds from such pedicels. Sometimes buds come across, as if cut, but hanging on a film. So the weevil damages strawberries and raspberries. These are small grayish-black beetles 2-3 mm long. They hibernate under fallen leaves and lumps of earth. initially
They patch on young leaves, and by the beginning of flowering, strawberries and raspberries lay eggs inside the buds, gnawing at the pedicels, causing the buds to break and fall off or wither, remaining hanging on the pedicel. The larvae that emerged from the eggs remain inside the buds and eat them away.
The fight against the weevil must be carried out during budding, no later than 5-6 days before the beginning of flowering, using the same preparations as against the stem gall midge. With the massive appearance of a new generation of weevils in the summer, it is advisable to spray with one of the named pesticides immediately after harvesting to destroy the beetles before leaving for the winter.
Raspberry beetle- one of the most dangerous pests of raspberries. More common in neglected gardens. The body of beetles is covered with thick rusty-yellow or grayish hairs, which determines their general color. Their size is small, about 4 mm long. Beetles and adult larvae hibernate in the upper soil layer. In the spring, when the soil warms up to + 12 ... + 13 ° С, the beetles come to the surface. They need additional nutrition and only after that they become capable of reproduction.
At first, the nectar and anthers of flowers of early-flowering weeds serve as food for beetles, then they damage the flowers of currants and gooseberries, and somewhat later they can be found on the flowers of fruit trees. In mid-May, during the extension of the raspberry buds, the beetles focus on this culture, eat away the buds, damage the leaves and flowers. By the beginning of flowering of raspberries, females lay eggs, placing them one by one in flowers and in young ovaries.
Each female can lay up to 40 eggs. After 10 days, the larvae hatch into the berries, which become ugly and dull, become smaller, wither and rot.
Adult larvae are yellowish in color, live in raspberries for 40-50 days and reach a length of 6-6.5 mm. At the end of July, the larvae leave the fruit and go into the soil, where they first turn into pupae, and then into beetles, which remain overwintering in the soil.
When harvesting, many larvae (worms) remain in the berries, from where they quickly sink to the bottom of the container.
The fight against the raspberry beetle is carried out during budding with the same preparations as with the stem gall midge, no later than 5-6 days before the beginning of raspberry flowering. With the massive appearance of a new generation of pests, it is advisable to re-sprinkle immediately after harvesting to destroy the beetles before leaving for the winter.
Raspberry glass, causing wilting of raspberry shoots, is less common in the southern region than gall midge, weevils, and beetles. But with poor care, raspberries are also very dangerous.
With a sharply colored bluish-black body, with transparent glassy wings, they somewhat resemble a wasp. Caterpillars overwinter inside raspberry stalks at their base. In the spring, they continue to damage the stems, eating away at their core. Having finished feeding, the caterpillars inside the passages turn into pupae, having previously made several holes for the butterflies to exit.
The butterflies emerge in July and lay their eggs in the soil near the base of the stems. Fertility of the female is up to 200 eggs. The caterpillars emerging from the eggs penetrate the stems and roots.
To combat the glass, careful low cutting and burning of damaged and fading shoots, timely removal of fruiting stems are necessary.
Mites, mainly arachnoid, populate raspberries in hot dry weather in July - August. Here will help "Fufanon", "Iskra-M" or "Aktellik", for remontant varieties - "Garden sulfur, colloidal" or "Tiovit Jet".
Diseases of raspberry berries and leaves: photo, description and treatment
Purple spot, or didimela. This is a fungal disease: oblong purple spots appear on green stems. It is widespread in various countries and has been known for a long time; in subsequent years, the harm from it increases. It mainly affects stems and buds, the ability of the disease to affect leaf petioles, veins, twigs is noted.
Didimela symptoms are very typical, especially in the early stages.
Look at the photo of this raspberry disease - vague purple spots appear on the affected bushes below the point of attachment of the leaf petiole:
The spots grow rapidly and stand out sharply against the background of the light bark of annual Raspberry shoots. As the spots grow, they become brown-brown with a lightening middle, on which brown large tubercles - pycnidia of the fungus are scattered. Spots cause cracking and flaking of the bark; merging, ring shoots, which break and dry out. The buds on diseased bushes do not develop.
The disease spreads in August - September, when there is a mass maturation of the spores of the didimela pathogen. The development of the disease is facilitated by wet weather, abundant dew, strong thickening of the plantings, poor sunlight and damage to raspberries by stem gall midge. Older shrubs are more susceptible to purple spotting.
Brown and red-stemmed raspberry varieties with smooth bark are relatively resistant to purple spotting.
Powdery mildew affects raspberries in years with high humidity, as well as in dense and shaded plantings. At the ends of the growing shoots, a white, initially tender bloom is formed, developing on the upper and lower sides of the leaves, partially capturing their petioles and the young ends of the shoot itself. In humid conditions, the plaque becomes powdery and clearly visible. In less favorable conditions, plaque is difficult to detect, since it merges with the white hairs of the raspberry itself. Raspberry leaves affected by this disease stop growing and become chlorotic.
The disease develops in the first half of summer, including the ripening period of berries. The causative agent of the disease in the winter remains in the buds of the affected shoots, partly on the fallen diseased leaves. The harmfulness is expressed in the oppression of the ends of the shoots and leaves of raspberries. Under the influence of the disease, they die off or, without ripening, freeze out. The raspberry berries affected by this disease become small, with an unpleasant bluish color and a mushroom smell.
Anthracnose can manifest itself on raspberries with regular excessive watering. This is a fungal disease in which very small, rounded, at first pointlike spots, then slightly increasing spots of 1-3 mm in diameter are formed on the leaves, petioles, shoots, fruits. The spots are grayish in the middle, surrounded by a wide purple border. The spots are scattered unevenly, but are often located in the folds and along the leaf veins. Without treatment for this disease, raspberry spots merge. Affected tissue in old spots may fall out. The spots on the petioles are very small, depressed in the form of ulcers, merging.
On the stems, anthracnose begins with the formation of individual small, deep ulcers surrounded by a wide purple border. The affected part of the stem is covered with a brown, corky, cracking tissue, as a result of which they die prematurely. Affected berries stop filling and dry up.
The causative agent of the disease hibernates mainly in the shoots, partly in the affected leaves. Most often, the disease enters new areas of raspberries with affected planting material.
Anthracnose develops in spring, after the leaves have opened. The further course of the disease depends on the weather. The disease develops very strongly in damp years. During the ripening of the crop, anthracnose appears in mass, completely covering the fruit clusters, which prematurely die off with many unripe berries.
White spot (septoria) raspberry leaves are damaged. At the same time, medium-sized rounded spots are formed, at first pale brown, then whitening, with a persistent brown border. Over time, the whitened center of the spot collapses and falls out. With a strong development of the disease, there are a lot of spots, the tissue between them turns brown, and a significant proportion of the leaf blade dies off.
Rust. The first signs of it appear on the upper side of the leaves in the form of separate yellow-orange tubercles, then they become black powdery. In the stem form, rust affects the lower part of the stem, which is at ground level. The affected stem tissue turns brown, covered with light-colored sores. In places where the largest ulcers develop, the raspberry stem becomes flat. The next year, with continued growth of shoots, large rust ulcers crack with deep longitudinal cracks. If you do not take measures to protect raspberries from this disease, there is a complete death of the shoots. Massive leaf disease leads to their premature drying.
Verticillus wilt causes wilting of annual raspberry shoots. In this case, the lower leaves turn pale, then turn yellow, and the tissue between the leaf veins dies off. The internodes are shortened, the shoots become short, the bark cracks in the form of a gap, the roots turn brown, the tops of the shoots wither, droop, and the shoot dies off.
Gray rot raspberries may be affected in damp and cool weather. At the same time, they are covered with a gray velvety dusty coating of the fungus - the causative agent of the disease.
Raspberry viral diseases: mosaic, streak and overgrowth
Raspberries are also affected by viral diseases - the most common of them are curl, mosaic, streak and overgrowth.
Curl leads to a shortening of the length of the shoots, curling of the leaves along the veins, which become glassy.
Mosaic manifests itself in the signs typical for the name of the disease - the variegated color of the leaf blade with dark and light-colored spots. These spots, depending on the conditions, can be larger or smaller, brighter and paler. Mosaic coloring of the leaves can be with elements of spotting and is accompanied by the formation of tuberous swollen areas on the leaf blade. Due to the delay in the growth of the edges of the plate, each leaf lobule acquires a general bulge. The mosaicity of the leaf is masked in the hot season of summer, but in the fall the disease manifests itself again, forming bright yellow blurry spots on young leaves.
Shoots at the beginning of the disease are not sharply shortened, but become thin, twig-like. The fruit cluster develops poorly, is shortened, gives a small amount of one-sided, small, dry, sour berries.
The mosaic is transferred with the planting material. In diseased bushes, frost resistance is reduced, and often the affected bushes die off after wintering.
With infectious chlorosis, leaves turn yellow on both annual and biennial shoots. Chlorosis is caused by a virus. The highest development of chlorosis coincides with the period of fruiting, which enhances its negative impact on the quantity and quality of the crop.
Streak (striping)- necrotic stripes or streaks on the stems of young annual shoots. In the affected stems, internodes are shortened. The leaves on them are drawn together, spirally twisted, pressed against the stem. Diseased plants live on average for 2-3 years and then die out completely.
Overgrowth ("witch's broom")- also a viral disease, leading to the formation of a large number (up to 200-250) of very thin stalks, similar to raspberry shoots from seeds.
Raspberry root disease bacterial cancer
Bacterial root cancer causes a pea to walnut size tumor on the roots of raspberries and at the base of the shoots. Tumors with a tuberous surface, brown from above, light in the middle, sometimes fissured, hard. The causative agent of the disease is bacteria that penetrate the root system through natural, mechanical holes, damage by insects. Tumors disintegrate after 1-2 years, infecting the soil.
Raspberries are more often affected by root cancer during long-term growth in one place, where there are up to 50-60% of diseased plants.
This disease of raspberry roots is introduced into new areas with the affected planting material, in which small tumors are often not noticed and are not removed.
The harmfulness of root cancer is manifested in the weakening of the development of the affected shoot. Sick root shoots are half lower than healthy ones, thinner, the leaves are yellower. Biennial shoots have small, dry berries. The harvest drops sharply. Diseased plants are less drought and frost resistant. In those areas where root cancer is, it usually has a massive distribution.
Fusarium fungi also cause root rot in raspberries.
Treatment of raspberries from diseases and preventive measures
To prevent raspberries from getting sick, it is necessary to protect the root system from mechanical damage (do not dig the soil and do not loosen it deeply). Another preventive measure against raspberry diseases is not to grow in one place for more than 7 years; return raspberries to old areas no earlier than after 3-4 years.
Planting should be done only with healthy plants in a well-fertilized bed. In the summer, immediately after the end of the harvest, carefully cut out the fruit bearing and heavily affected young stems, do not leave stumps. Burn diseased stems. During the summer, thin out plantings, weed from weeds.
How can you treat raspberries from diseases in order to prevent the spread of infections in the garden? Spray shrubs with any copper-containing preparation (1% Bordeaux liquid, "Copper Ochloride", "Hom", "Oxyhom" or "Abiga-Peak"). In case of rainy weather, repeat the treatment of raspberries for diseases after 10-14 days.
Also, to combat raspberry diseases, the following measures must be taken:
- In order for the plants to fight diseases themselves, a high level of agricultural technology is required (a good planting site, regular watering, feeding, weeding, loosening, mulching, etc.).
- Selection and cultivation of resistant varieties.
- The use of healthy planting material. To do this, in the summer, strong, healthy bushes are isolated, the root shoots of which are used in autumn as planting material.
- Legumes (beans, peas) are good precursors for raspberries. Strawberries should be considered a bad predecessor, from vegetable crops - potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants.
- You can return raspberries to their old place only after 3-4 years.
- Disinfect raspberry roots before planting in a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) for 5 minutes, followed by rinsing in clean water or "Fitosporin-M".
- Avoid thickened plantings, do not place raspberries in lowlands or near water bodies.
- Cut biennial shoots immediately after fruiting, leaving no stumps.
- When forming a raspberry bush in autumn or early spring, remove all weakened, small annual shoots.
- Systematic control during the growing season with aphids - a carrier of pathogens of viral diseases.
Here you can see photos of raspberry diseases and methods of treating shrubs for diseases:
Sudden untimely yellowing of raspberry leaves is an obvious sign that something is wrong with the plant and needs help.
Are the wrong feeding, untimely watering, illiterate care, diseases or pests to blame? Let's figure it out together.
However, she also requires regular attention to her needs. If the leaves of a plant turn yellow in spring or summer, there may be several reasons - from depleted soil and bad weather to the work of fungi and viruses. And in each case, there are methods to correct the situation, we will tell you them. So, raspberry leaves turn yellow - what to do?
Raspberry leaves turn yellow due to improper care
Raspberry leaves may turn yellow at the wrong time if the thickets are too thick and the plants lack both light and air. In this case, you can correct the situation with competent pruning and thinning, and at the same time improve the health of the shrubs.
The yellowing of raspberry leaves in spring and summer can also be caused by high soil moisture caused by prolonged rainy weather. The abundance of moisture washes out nutrients from the upper layers of the soil, making them inaccessible to the root system of the berry, and then raspberries begin to suffer from a lack of nitrogen and potassium (see below).
The gardener himself can also provoke this phenomenon by pouring plenty of cold water on the raspberry and arranging an additional dangerous stagnation of moisture at the roots.
The opposite situation can also happen, when the yellowing of raspberry leaves is provoked by excessively dry and hot weather, when the plant simply does not have enough moisture and it slowly withers due to insufficient supply of nutrients.
"Treatment" in these cases is one thing - to establish a competent irrigation system and adjust it depending on the vagaries of the weather.
Raspberry leaves turn yellow due to imbalance of nutrients in the soil
A common reason why raspberry leaves suddenly turn yellow may be a lack of nitrogen.
This element is vital for plants - it is part of chlorophyll, without which the process of photosynthesis is impossible. Among the signs of nitrogen starvation are blanching and yellowing of foliage (old raspberry leaves begin to turn yellow from the tips to the center), lagging plants in growth, premature flowering. The introduction of nitrogen fertilizers is a guarantee of the correct growth of raspberry bushes.
What to do in this case? It is possible to correct the lack of nitrogen by providing the berry farmers with regular watering and feeding with nitrogen fertilizers - for example, a solution of urea (150 g per 10 l of water).
And to one degree or another, yellowing of raspberry leaves can indicate a lack of manganese or magnesium, an excess of phosphorus and potassium.
How to proceed in this case and not confuse the reasons? Be attentive to the feeding of the raspberry - and to their quantity, and to the composition, and to the timing.
Raspberry leaves turn yellow due to illness
But, unfortunately, the reason that the leaves of raspberries turn yellow and wither can also be dangerous viral or fungal diseases. Let's consider the most likely ones.
Root cancer (goiter of the roots) is a bacterial disease of raspberries that affects its root system.
Bacteria penetrate into plant tissues through mechanical damage and form growths-galls with a brown smooth coating on the roots, which then grow together. Modified roots no longer fully absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil. As a result, the aboveground part of the shrub turns yellow and withers, the leaves dry out and fall off, new shoots grow short and curl, the berries become smaller and lose their taste. If the disease progresses, raspberries may even die.
How to Cure Raspberry Root Cancer? It will not work to completely cure the shrub from this disease, you need to focus on measures to prevent and maintain the plant. Risk factors for plants in the case of root cancer are long cultivation of a crop in one area, alkalized scarce soil, dry weather. That's why:
- Dig up and burn heavily affected bushes, and do not plant anything in the place where they grew for another 2-4 years so that the bacteria have time to die.
- Remove weeds and crop rotation regularly.
- Do not allow the soil to become alkaline.
- Before planting, spill the soil with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. In the same solution (100 g per 10 l of water), soak the roots of the seedlings for 5-10 minutes before planting (then rinse with water).
- Apply phosphorus and potash fertilizers on time.
- Observe the watering regime, especially during hot dry periods.
Rust is a widespread fungal disease of many plant species; raspberries are no exception.
How to cure raspberries from rust? The fungus hibernates as spores in fallen leaves, and the main risk factor during the growing season is increased air humidity in warm weather. Raspberry rust prevention and control measures include the following guidelines:
- Choose those raspberry varieties that are resistant to this disease ( Yellow Spirina, Russian, Progress, Ever-bearing).
- Purchase known healthy seedlings from trusted manufacturers.
- Remove weeds and debris regularly.
- Mulch berry bushes with manure (microorganisms living in it destroy the spores of the fungus), loosen the soil regularly.
- In the spring, before bud break, spray the raspberry with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% potassium salt or 4% ammonium sulfate solution (400 g of the drug per 10 liters of water).
- At the first signs of the disease, treat the bushes with a fungicide (Fitosporin, Hom, Ordan, Topaz, etc.). Processing can be carried out 3-4 times per season (during bud break, before flowering, during the appearance of the first ovaries, as well as after harvesting).
The vein chlorosis of raspberries is no longer a bacterial or fungal, but a viral disease.
Its main distinguishing feature is the yellowing of raspberry leaves along the veins (which at first remain green), and only then the entire leaf acquires a yellow-brown color, dries out along the edge and deforms. In parallel, the shoots of the plant are stretched and thinned, and the berries often ripen only from the sunny side and dry out without ripening. Developing rapidly, the disease affects all leaves, which eventually fall off and cease to protect the raspberry bush during the cold period. The plant weakens and dies.
There are types of chlorosis that are caused by non-infectious causes (poor drainage of the soil, its high acidity and depleted composition), but ticks and aphids are most often carriers of the disease.
Also, infection can occur during grafting of a diseased plant on a healthy one and when the juice of diseased crops gets in or using a non-disinfected instrument.
How to cure raspberries from chlorosis? And this disease is easier to prevent than to fight it for a long time.
- Look for chlorosis-resistant raspberries ( Kolkhoz Woman, Cornwall Victoria, Russian Yielding and etc.).
- Purchase known healthy seedlings from trusted manufacturers.
- Disinfect garden tools before work.
- Do not forget to feed healthy plants (humus, peat and compost once every 2-3 years at the rate of 5-6 kg per 1 square meter).
- Timely fight ticks and aphids on the site using various means: Fufanon, Aktellik, Inta-Vir.
- Remove affected leaves and shoots, uproot and burn heavily infested bushes.
The raspberry disease with the beautiful name "mosaic" is also of a viral nature.
In fact, this is a whole group of diseases with a common symptom - raspberry leaves turn yellow and brighten with chaotically scattered spots and stripes of various shapes and sizes. With a strong defeat, convex areas appear on them, and the leaves themselves become thinner and wither. At the same time, the shoots become thinner, and the berries become smaller and lose their taste. The plant weakens, after a harsh winter or hot summer, the yield of the raspberry tree is reduced by 50%, and the bushes may die completely. The virus is actively spread by aphids and ticks - pathogens are introduced into the plant through wounds left by pests or tools, as well as through root shoots.
How to cure mosaic raspberries? Carry out prevention and timely control of insect pests, as well as:
- Purchase known healthy seedlings from trusted manufacturers.
- Regularly clean the area from weeds and litter, loosen the aisles.
- Do not place a cultivated raspberry plant next to a wild one, which will almost certainly contain insect pathogens.
- Feed your raspberries throughout the season with superphosphate, potash salt, manure, or rotted compost.
- Timely fight ticks and aphids on the site using various means: Iskra, Commander, Fufanon, Aktellik, Inta-Vir.
- Use folk remedies: tobacco infusion, chamomile infusion.
- Remove affected leaves and shoots, uproot and burn heavily infested bushes.
As you can see, most of the causes of premature yellowing of raspberry leaves can be prevented, you just need to regularly take care of your berry.
There are raspberries in almost every garden plot. The shrub produces fruits that have many beneficial properties. Unfortunately, most gardeners face the same problem year after year - raspberry disease. The reasons are different, ranging from improper care and ending. Let's consider the main problems.
Raspberry bush: how to understand that the bush is sick?
Raspberries are one of the common types of berry bushes that require special attention if you want the plant to bear fruit from year to year. The main thing is to notice changes in time, for example, deformation of leaves, the formation of spots on the bottom, in order to timely eliminate the disease and restore the plant.
Raspberries require special attention.
Types of raspberry diseases
Consider the main diseases of raspberries.
What diseases are there in raspberries?
Deformed, curly leaves
Often summer residents complain that the raspberry leaves have become curly, while their color can remain green, or turn yellow, covered with a seemingly rusty bloom.
Wrinkles appear on the leaves, and the berries themselves become sour. If you do not overcome the disease, then the shrub can die after 3 years.
If you do not fight curliness, raspberries can die.
Curly hair is a viral pathology. It is advisable for the summer resident to remove the infected bush until the virus has spread to other bushes.
Fading leaves, the appearance of a rusty coating on them
This sign indicates the presence of a fungal disease. Unfortunately, it is completely impossible to overcome the disease.
Rust stains vary in diameter.
If rust appears on the bush, that is, dark, rusty spots of different diameters form on the leaves, and brown sores on the stems, then it is better to remove infected shrubs from still healthy plants ... The disease can only be prevented by spraying raspberries with preventive agents.
Mosaic
The mosaic can range in color from light yellow to dark green.
The disease got this name because of its color. Cracks of different shades are formed on the leaves, resembling a mosaic.
Colors range from light yellow to dark green. Unfortunately, getting sick with this virus, the bush dies, so it is better to carry out preventive measures in the spring.
Spots of magenta
Purple spots appear due to high humidity.
Purple spot often appears on raspberry leaves when the summer has been rainy.
The disease provocateur is high air humidity ... So, purple spots, black dots (pycnidia) are formed on the leaves. The leaves themselves can crack and dry out over time, which leads to the death of the shrub.
As a prophylaxis, various spraying agents can be used, as well as a solution with boric alcohol.
Anthracnose
This is one of the variants of a fungal disease, which affects all parts of the shrub - bark, fruits and leaves.
Anthracnose on a raspberry branch.
White spots may appear on different parts of the plant, while their edges are painted in a bright red hue. Black spots may appear on stems and bark.
The shrub will eventually die due to instability to cold and frost, so it is better to spray it with special preparations. Bordeaux liquid will help. For the first time, the bush is sprayed after the buds bloom, the second - after the buds are formed, the third - after harvesting.
Chlorosis
Due to chlorosis, the leaves turn yellow.
One of the types of serious diseases that can only be recognized by small, tasteless fruits.
Leaves turn yellow in summer, which causes confusion among the owners. The virus can be transferred to other shrubs, so it is better to dig up the plant. Moreover, in its place it is better not to plant bushes with raspberries for the next 8-10 years, since the infection also spreads to the soil.
Botrytis
The disease is popularly called gray rot due to the defeat of the fruit and the appearance on them of a dark gray plaque resembling rot.
Botrytis on raspberry fruits.
Due to the fungal infection, the berries begin to rot. The disease can be transmitted to stems and leaves.
A shrub with gray rot symptoms is best burned. So that raspberries do not get sick with this disease, it is advisable to spray it in the spring, for example, with Bordeaux liquid.
Witch's broom
This viral disease affects the internal system of the plant through rodent and insect bites.
As a result, the plant stops bearing fruit completely. To prevent the disease from spreading to raspberries, it is advisable to process the bush several times a year, including from ants.
Due to illness, raspberries stop bearing fruit.
Powdery mildew
The disease is of fungal origin.
Powdery mildew on raspberry leaves.
Plants often suffer from the disease due to wet, rainy summers. A sign is the appearance of a white coating on the leaves, because of which they begin to deform and dry out. In the fight against the disease, prophylaxis with antifungal agents is carried out.
Aphid
Aphids are carried by ants. They can at any time change the habitat of aphids, and transfer it to raspberries. Therefore, try to destroy aphids even on wild plants.
Often raspberries suffer from the appearance of aphids.
Small harmful insects settle on the plant and gradually begin to eat it. The leaves begin to deform, curl and change color. The female aphid lays eggs, so the disease lives on the plant from year to year.
To save the bush, the main thing is to detect the disease in time... In the fight will help solutions kabrofos and actellic.
Gall midges
Gall midges, or crimson mosquitoes, often settle in bushes and also lay eggs.
Another name for gall midges is the crimson mosquito.
Swelling appears on the leaves, shoots, stems, after which the plant begins to dry. In the fight against raspberry mosquitoes, solutions with drugs such as ambush and karbofos will help.
Raspberry beetles
These insects, which are about 4 mm long, can settle in the buds and flowers of plants.
Beetles are easy to distinguish - they have a stigma of a yellowish or gray tint. To prevent insects from laying their larvae, you need to find them in time and shake them off the bush.
You need to find and shake off the raspberry beetle in time.
To combat, solutions karbofos and decis are used. Experienced gardeners also advise to dig up the soil next to the shrub, as it may contain the larvae of the raspberry beetle.
Glass-maker
Insects look like a butterfly.
The glass-makers have a bluish-black body and resemble a wasp in size. They can appear on bushes during rainy summers. Plants in the southern part of our country are less susceptible to infection.
Glassware on raspberries.
Insects reproduce quickly, laying eggs. Infected stems must be ripped off and burned. Shrubs can be sprayed with insect repellent solutions.
Mites
These insects can also settle on raspberry bushes.
Spider mites often settle on plants in July-August, especially in hot, dry weather. In the fight against them, drugs such as Aktellik, Iskra-M, Fufanon, Tiovit Jet and garden sulfur .
Spider mites appear in hot and dry weather.
Septoriasis
This fungal disease is also called white spot.
Mostly on the leaves and shoots, many whitish spots of different diameters appear, which have a dark brown border. Leaves dry out over time and fall off.
Septoria on raspberries.
Infected bushes do not last long. It is better to get rid of them so that they do not harm healthy shoots. Prevention is the treatment of the plant with a special solution in spring and summer.
Verticillus wilt
With this disease, the leaves and fruits rapidly fade and wither.
With verticillium wilt, the leaves begin to fade.
The disease penetrates deep into the plant, which is why it bears less fruit and dies quickly. Gardeners recommend taking preventive measures in early spring and June.
How to deal with raspberry diseases and pests?
If you want to get a lot of fruits every year, then for better choose more resistant varieties.
- Pay attention to the type of shrub as well. , and disembarkation. Typically, each variety is suitable for specific latitudes. For example, for the northern regions, choose shrubs that are more resistant to cold weather.
- If you have already had experience with an infected plant that you dug up, then it is better not to plant new raspberry bushes in its place yet... At least 3-4 years should pass.
- Raspberry bushes do not like moisture , therefore, it is better not to plant them in lowlands and next to a reservoir.
- So that the bush blooms well and bears fruit, eliminate poorly flowering and infected shoots from it in autumn or early spring.
- If a disease or insects appear on the bush, immediately treat them with special solutions ... Today you can find drugs in specialized stores for a variety of ailments. But also do not forget about preventive measures in spring and early summer, even if the plant is healthy.
- Do not forget also about observing the basic rules of caring for raspberries - water the shrubs on time and regularly (take into account the rains), feed them, do not allow the weed to be found, loosen the ground near the root, preventing various insects from laying eggs in it.
If insects appear on raspberries, you need to treat the plant with a special solution.
Video about raspberry disease
Rolling raspberry leaves in the garden is not uncommon. The fact is that such a deformation of the leaves of a culture can occur for many reasons, for example, with a lack of minerals, damage by fungal or viral diseases. Even improper watering can cause massive foliage curling.
If the leaves began to curl en masse on the raspberry bushes, and there is no damage on the leaves themselves, and there are no insects on their back side, in this case, most likely, the culture simply does not have enough minerals and nutrients. In this case, it is not difficult to deal with curly foliage, it is enough just to start feeding the plants. Both organic and industrial preparations can be used as top dressing.
From organic matter, infusions of mullein and chicken manure are well suited, and from industrial ones - ammonium sulfate, urea, ammonium nitrate. To achieve a visible result, it is better to alternate feeding, for example, for the first time to apply organic matter, and the second time, after 10-14 days, a special mineral fertilizer.
If raspberry leaves began to curl in single specimens, and grayish spots are visible on the leaves themselves, then in this case the culture has undergone a fungal disease called anthracnose. If measures are taken in time, then it is quite possible to save the plants, since the disease is perfectly treated at the initial stages. Processing can be carried out with the following preparations:
copper sulfate
- Cuproskat,
- Oxyhom,
- Sandofan.
Naturally, if raspberries are already bearing fruit, then you should not use industrial preparations, because this will damage the crop. It is best to resort to folk methods, for example, infusion of orange and lemon peel has proven itself well. It is necessary to pour about 200-300 g of the peel with a liter of water, bring to a boil, boil for 15-20 minutes, then let it brew for a day in a warm place. The strained infusion can be sprayed on all plants in the garden affected by aphids.
Insufficient watering can also cause foliage to curl. The fact is that with a lack of moisture, plants lack minerals, so it is very important not to let the soil around the raspberry dry out completely. This will not only help to avoid foliage curling, but also have a beneficial effect on crop yields.
