How to build walls of a country house. Garden houses. Summer house options
Lovers of nature and country life who did not have time to acquire at least a 6 by 6 frame garden house ,
but those who have a plot of land usually dream of at least some kind of shelter in their possessions. Making a home with your own hands frightens most citizens. But in vain. Today you can find a sea of information about step-by-step construction from experienced craftsmen. It will not only give you confidence, relieving you of worries and fears. Using the recommendations of professionals, you can carry out all the necessary manipulations competently and in the proper order, significantly saving on hiring a work team.
Of course, it’s a good idea to use the services of specialists. They guarantee (most often) quality, and the construction time will be noticeably reduced. But if the budget is limited and you want, or have a desire to try yourself in such an interesting business, nothing prevents you from rolling up your sleeves and building a garden house cheaply. An additional bonus is that for yourself everything is usually done exactly as you imagine and dream. Sometimes it can be difficult to explain your vision to hired employees.
Then the walls are assembled from the timber, fastening the joints with dowels. It is laid between the crowns. In general, insulation is desirable for each next layer. For an economy class home, they usually use a tourniquet or tow. Next, work begins on.
Roof
For rafters, a board with a cross-section of 150x25 or 100x50 mm is used. You will also need roofing felt with glassine. To make the task easier, racks measuring one and a half meters are placed in the center of the building, and a beam is attached to them. On the resulting structure are located.
Installing the roof of a one-story garden house on a frame can take only one day. The type of specific roofing material is selected individually, according to your own capabilities and taste. We must not forget about the climate characteristics of the area where the future homeowner lives. Sheets of ordinary galvanized iron are often used.
Finishing
Using glassine The finished frame must be covered with glassine, and only the selected finishing material is mounted on it. It can be different, in accordance with the budget and preferences of the owner. Looks great, which is attached with self-tapping screws.
One-story frame garden houses, trimmed on the outside with wooden clapboard or. Both wooden and plastic windows are well suited to the resulting structure. Doors made of wood or an imitation of this material will look natural. indoors can also be covered. Or you can cover them with plasterboard, which is then covered with paint or wallpaper. The floor is made of planks.
Approximate cost
Garden house projects
Results
Neat frame garden house , made with your own caring hands, it is convenient to use for permanent or temporary residence. It is spacious enough to store equipment and household supplies.
It has enough space to receive and accommodate guests. And if in the future it is planned to erect a grandiose structure, then it can become the place of residence and base for an entire construction team.
It’s not that difficult to build a small 4x6 garden house with your own hands, without involving workers. The main thing is a responsible attitude towards construction, attention and patience. And, of course, strict adherence to recommendations and compliance with requirements. And very soon your plot of land will be transformed and take on the appearance of a real home.
People acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remodel or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. One of our craftsmen, who decided to join country life, was puzzled by just such a process. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that’s exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country “for the first time.”
- Country house 6x6 with built-in terrace 4x3:
- project;
- foundation;
- water supply;
- box;
- internal work.
Country house 6x6 with built-in terrace 4x3
Gonzik1
Last year I purchased a plot of land in a field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was supplied to the site (it took two months to complete the paperwork), a panel was installed on the pole with a meter, a machine and an outlet. This year, having saved up some money, I began construction. I decided to do everything myself, because it’s cheaper and more reliable.
DIY country house project
The craftsman created the dacha construction project with his own hands over the winter; according to his idea, this is the first module, to which he will later attach another one, combining both parts into a solid structure. Using a special program, I made a drawing that allowed me to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials.
Foundation
Since the house is lightweight, using frame technology and on one floor, Gonzik1 gave preference to a columnar foundation made of special concrete blocks (20x20x40 cm). His choice was also influenced by the low groundwater level (GWL) at the dacha and the excellent condition of similar foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pillar - removed the fertile layer, added a sand cushion, and laid the blocks. The plane was maintained using a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it’s cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days.
Water supply
There is no place for a central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for each summer resident. Our craftsman initially planned to drill a well. Test drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - dense black clay came out instead of water. The drillers reported that only an artesian well about ninety meters long would help, and they announced an exorbitant price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future has shown - the decision is the right one. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, restored in an hour and a half.
Box
The strapping is two-layer - at the bottom there is a board 100x50 mm, at the top - 100x40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing felt and secured to the posts with anchors.
All frame posts were also assembled from 100x40 mm boards with nails; the walls were raised directly on site using temporary jibs. They collected only the ridge on the ground, then lifted it onto the roof. This stage took another four days.
The next thing was to install the rafters, wind boards, install the wind protection, and put the counter batten and sheathing on top. Our craftsman chose metal tiles as the roofing covering.
Gonzik1
I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are often laid from left to right. It turned out, no, the tiles are laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be placed under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, it moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the sheathing with its feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day.
After the tiles, we got to the grounding, due to which the floor joists were not completely laid. Gonzik1 I used a corner 50x50x4 mm, a connection from a metal strip 40x4 mm, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).
Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid floorboards on the terrace, and began covering the façade with imitation timber. The cash was immediately treated with protective impregnation. During the work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive.
Interior work
With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not occur every week, but it continued. I finished with the floor - rough on OSB joists, a windproof membrane on top, stone wool slabs between the joists, sheathing, and OSB again on it. Linoleum is assumed to be the finishing coating. The house also got another window.
I brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, a vapor barrier on top and clapboard as cladding.
The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm; contrasting trim on the window openings added decorative value to the house. All internal walls will be covered with clapboard.
Gonzik1
There are no stoves planned, the house is for seasonal use - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to install electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, new substation, 15 kW per site.
For all those interested, the craftsman posted a calculation of materials (all used boards are 6 meters long):
- foundation blocks 200×200×400 mm, 30 pieces;
- board 50x100 mm, 8 pieces (for the bottom layer of strapping);
- board 40x100 mm, 96 pieces - approximately 8 pieces left;
- board 25x10 mm, 128 pieces - approximately 12 pieces left;
- timber 100×100 mm, 3 pieces;
- rail 25×50 mm, 15 pieces;
- imitation timber 18.5×146, 100 pieces – approximately 15 pieces left;
- insulation, stone wool 1200×600×100 mm, 28 packages (6 slabs each) – package left;
- windproof membrane 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls;
- vapor barrier 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls - approximately 0.5 rolls left;
- OSB 3 2500×1200×9 mm, 15 pieces (rough and finishing floor) – approximately 1.5 slabs left;
- metal tile 350×115 cm, 12 sheets;
- lining 12.5x96 cm, 370 pieces (10 packs) - not sure it’s enough, partially used for toilet hemming, and the walls are not finished yet;
- wooden windows 1000×1000 mm, 3 pieces;
- entrance metal door 2050×900 mm, 1 piece;
- protective impregnation for wood, 10 liters - 3 liters left, but the house is covered in only one layer.
Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary.
Gonzik1
- Foundation - 2500 rubles.
- Boards for the frame, wind protection, vapor barrier, imitation timber (exterior decoration), lining (interior decoration), insulation, etc. - 110,000 rubles.
- Metal tiles - 20,000 rubles.
- Door - 13,200 rubles.
- Windows - 4,200 rubles x 3 = 12,600 rubles.
- Forwarding SIP to the house - 3000 rubles (with the cable itself).
- Impregnation - 3600 rubles.
I’m still planning to install electrical wiring around the house, I think I’ll spend 8-10 thousand. I don’t give the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., etc., because I no longer remember how much I purchased. Total: about 165,000 rubles.
For another short but fruitful vacation - I finished the electrical work, finished the interior paneling and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100x40 mm board on the terrace, took it unplaned, processed it with an electric planer, and then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything was in place, nothing moved, did not dry out or warp. The craftsman has plans to complete the second block, but this test of the pen is excellent - an excellent summer house for a family holiday.
The dream of metropolitan residents is a beautiful house outside the city, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that a country house is complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple.
Choosing a location for a future country house
Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space.
Thoughtful, competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:
- from the street - 5 m
- from the passage - 3 m
- from the neighboring plot - 3 m
We are not considering the option of a low-lying area - water will accumulate there. Optimally - the highest place on the site in its northern (northwestern) part.
Country house made of timber - a modern choice
For construction, timber from various types of wood is used: linden, larch, pine. Natural wood is the most environmentally friendly building material. Wooden houses create a unique atmosphere that has a beneficial effect on the physical health and emotional state of people. The life-giving aroma of the forest is incomparable. Houses made of timber do not need finishing: natural wood looks aesthetically pleasing and gives the room a special charm, very suitable for the country spirit.
The undeniable advantages of a house made of timber:
- at any time of the year, even in severe frosts in winter, the room easily and quickly warms up to a comfortable temperature;
- the total weight of timber houses is relatively small, so the construction of a powerful foundation is not required, which saves effort, time and money;
- wood is able to absorb excess moisture, being a natural humidity regulator, thanks to this a special microclimate is established in wooden buildings;
- quite durable: nature itself has provided for the ability of wood to withstand constant climatic changes - changing cycles of freezing and thawing, precipitation, wind, etc.
House made of stone
An inexpensive and reliable stone for a country house - foam concrete - a building material made in the form of blocks of cellular concrete. Composition: cement, sand, water and foaming agent. This is the most inexpensive way to build a country house made of stone. Foam concrete blocks are not distinguished by their aesthetic appearance, but their surface is easy to process and decorate.
Advantages of a foam concrete house:
- creates a comfortable microclimate for life all year round;
- refractory;
- high level of sound insulation;
- long service life;
- budget;
- the light weight of the material allows you to save on the construction of a massive foundation;
- high level of thermal insulation: keeps cool in summer, warm in winter.
An alternative to a house made of foam concrete is a country house made of brick or natural stone. The most durable and reliable material, which is not afraid of almost any natural phenomena and other influences of a mechanical or chemical nature. The main disadvantage is the high cost of the material itself and construction work.
Building a brick or stone house will require a lot of time. Here you cannot do without a reliable monolithic foundation. Its construction is possible only with the use of special equipment. It will take more than a month to lay the foundation and dry the concrete. Only after this can construction continue.
There is also a significant disadvantage in the operation of a stone house. Its interior takes a long time to warm up, especially if it was left unheated for some time or was heated to a minimum. Therefore, a stone country house is not the best option for those who use it extremely rarely in winter.
Many people like to get a country house in just a few days. After all, to do this, you just need to choose the building project you like, and then sign the contract. The “designer” of your house is delivered to your site by the contractor in a semi-assembled form. The final stages of assembly are carried out as quickly as possible.
They weigh quite a bit. This means that you can use a pile type of foundation. These types of houses are very attractive and not expensive.
The disadvantage of this structure is that you can only use the country house in the warm season. And no options for insulation or heating systems will help cope with frost and retain heat.
In addition, you will not feel very good in them in the sultry heat, since the house gets very hot in the sun and it is simply unbearable to be inside. In this case, you will definitely need to install a ventilation system or air conditioning. Yes, such house options are inexpensive, but their operation will cost a lot! Therefore, think carefully about what type of material you should choose to make your country house practical, reliable and beautiful!
Modern houses in high-tech style
Progress does not stand still, and with the development of technology, the requirements for homes are also growing. Country houses in the high-tech style have become very popular recently. The number of variations, types of installation and facade will not leave indifferent many who want to build their own home. Modern fashion trends are gradually making their way into construction.
Projects of country houses in the high-tech style are chosen only by those people who want to be imbued with the spirit of modernity and experience technological progress for themselves. These houses combine maximum functionality and living space well. Such buildings became most popular in Europe. The EU countries were the legislators of this architectural trend.
All details comply with the principles of minimalism. It’s not for nothing that high-tech is considered technical minimalism. There are no flashy or overly bright colors in such a structure. All forms are strict, restrained and sometimes smooth. The façade immediately catches the eye. Main materials: glass, plastic, wood, metal. In percentage terms, wood predominates.
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Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:
It is worth noting that each stage of building a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically frame house.
Step No. 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house
Preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:
- Site preparation
- House marking
Site preparation
First, you need to clear the area of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the marking and allow you to make it more accurately.
If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled using special equipment.
Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will make your work much easier, and measurements in the grass may be subject to a large error.
House marking
Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depends on it. If the marking is inaccurate, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next stages.
Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls.
If you want to learn how to correctly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all the walls and corners are level and correspond to the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, it had to be submitted separately.
Step No. 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house
The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.
It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and it’s up to you to decide which one to choose.
Here I will tell you in a nutshell about suitable foundations for a frame house, and in what cases each of them is used, and also give links to their detailed description.
The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw foundation. This is practically the simplest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since installing a pile-screw foundation is not difficult even with your own hands.
Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except rocky ones. Particularly suitable for swampy soils, where compact soils are located deep and other types require huge costs.
In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.
Shallow strip foundation
Shallow strip foundations are also used quite often for construction. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.
Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires strict adherence to laying technology.
As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated in soils with very high groundwater levels and swampy soils.
Slab foundation for a frame house
Recently, slab foundations have become increasingly popular for building a frame house with your own hands. Despite its considerable cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not spend money on it separately.
Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.
Step No. 3: Installing the floor of a frame house with your own hands
The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires. 
In this step-by-step instruction, we will look in detail only at the wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything into one article.
Concrete floor installation
It is worth noting that a concrete floor in a frame house is installed in cases of a slab foundation or a strip foundation. With a slab, everything is clear - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.
But if the foundation is strip, the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.
Wooden floor installation
Let's look at the construction of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For the tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, which can be made of thinner timber. But first things first.
Tying the foundation of a frame house
The installation of a wooden floor begins with tying the foundation. As a rule, the piping is made from timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the timber should be to avoid sagging. 
The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.
In order to easily carry out the tying process with your own hands, we will divide it into several stages:
- The timber is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, don’t forget about waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing material.
- The next step is to outline the joining points of the timber; they should be located on the pile, since these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
- The timber is joined with an overlap of 20-30cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, so-called “locks” are cut out from the end.
- The corners fit almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
- The beam is attached to the foundation using bolts or studs. To do this, you need to drill holes both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails measuring 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the timber.
- Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the internal walls of the frame house. This beam, to the already installed external one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally use fastening metal corners.
When the piping of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next stage of our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.
Floor frame in the house
It is worth noting that already at this stage it is advisable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if you plan everything in advance, there will be much fewer problems later.
The next step is to install the joists on top of the trim. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use timber measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a 50x200mm or 50x150mm board, sewing them together in twos. 
If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board measuring 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.
Installation of logs is a simple stage in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that must be covered in these instructions:
Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house
It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while preventing moisture from entering the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself is laid tightly, without gaps.
So we have looked at the instructions for installing the floor of a frame house, now it’s time to start working on the walls.
Step No. 4: Construction of the walls of a frame house
Our next step instructions I will be installing the walls myself. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all the boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners; some fastenings can be made with studs.
It is worth noting that almost the entire frame is assembled from boards measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required insulation thickness. 
Some people think that it would be better to install timber in the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and I’ll tell you why a little later, during the installation process.
So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.
For better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for installing the walls of a frame house into several stages:
- Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
- Installation and fastening of walls vertically on site
Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors
We will assemble the walls on the already finished floor of the frame house; this is the most convenient option. But we must take into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions be accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already installed floor.
To make it clear what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house , and then I will tell you everything in order.
Now let’s look at step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with your own hands:
- First of all, we need to decide on the ceiling height in the house. Let's assume that the height of the rough ceiling will be 280cm. This means that the vertical posts of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265 cm. The diagram shows where the 15 cm came from.
- The distance between the racks, as a rule, is selected based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is made less by 2 cm, for a tighter contact.
- The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with 120-150mm nails. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
- It is worth noting that each wall will be smaller in wall thickness than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible in the diagram.
- If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the entire assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
- As a rule, to add rigidity to the entire structure, jumpers are mounted between the racks. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they are installed one or two per space between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo; in the case when they are made one at a time, they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb boards, depending on further work.
- Window and door openings in the wall of a frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
- This is what it looks like “live”.
The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board when calculating, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.
Putting the walls in place
It is worth noting that when assembling walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise the corners will be even, but the walls will not.
Top trim and structural reinforcement
So, the frame of the walls has been assembled, now you need to make the top frame from the same board as the walls.
The top trim is necessary, first of all, for stronger adhesion of the corners, and will also give unity to all parts of the frame walls and distribute the load between them. 
To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150mm nails over the walls, along the entire perimeter, including the internal load-bearing ones, so that all joints are covered with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for the corners, where the overlap will be equal to the thickness of the wall. 
The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement using plywood or OSB board. 
As a rule, having pierced one side along the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB boards, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.
Internal partitions of a frame house
The construction of internal partitions is almost no different from the construction of external walls, except that they have more lenient requirements in terms of thickness and insulation. 
- Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort in terms of sound insulation.
- The insulation inside the partitions will serve primarily as a sound-absorbing material rather than as thermal insulation.
- Internal partitions can be insulated without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.
These are all the main differences between internal walls and external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.
Step No. 5: Roof of a frame house
The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof of other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I’ll even say more that installing a roof for a frame house will be less labor-intensive than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much simpler. 
It is worth noting that building a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complex house layout, then you can easily do it yourself.
Building the roof of any house, including a frame one, is a very large topic with many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. Well, secondly, in order not to confuse you, I will probably move this topic to a separate article.
Step No. 6: Insulating the frame house
Now we have come to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - floor, walls and ceiling.
You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction; here we will discuss only general points.
When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the insulation itself, but also the characteristics of wood, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.
Here is a short instruction on how to insulate a frame house with your own hands:
- Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side should be in the instructions for it.
- From the inside of the house, between the studs, insulation is laid in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid overlapping the joint of the previous one to avoid cold bridges.
- Floor insulation occurs in the same way.
- It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic by first filling a vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with boards or plywood.
- After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film over it; it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
- Depending on the needs and further finishing work, sheathing material is placed on the walls on top of the film - boards or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, finishing is carried out.
As you have already seen, there was a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction were described in detail here DIY frame house, despite the fact that some points were included in separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.
I hope that by following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.
After purchasing a country plot for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes urgent. Well, building it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, you are planning a huge “palace” that requires the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.
Usually compact buildings are chosen for a dacha, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.
The optimal material for a country house building is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.
Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the location and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.
Proe ct of a small country house
The size of the future house largely depends on the area of the dacha plot, the number of family members and the financial capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and work time.
In any case, the first steps are drawing up a project Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Larger buildings are erected much less frequently, and mainly in cases where they are planned to be used year-round. But this will most likely not be a country house, but a full-fledged country house.
The layout of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that can be established by the board of the gardening association, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. The following distances are most often required:
- The house must be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring plot, and from the fence separating the plot from the general passage (street) - 5 meters.
- In order to ensure fire safety, a stone house is placed at a distance of at least six meters from another stone building, and ten meters from a wooden one. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden building.
- To prevent the house from blocking neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building at least equal to its height.
Usually, to install a country house, the highest place in the area where Water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. Increased humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always have a negative impact on the overall strength and durability of the structure.
Most often, the following construction technologies are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log houses, walls made of blocks or bricks.
For summer cottages, designs of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are predominantly chosen. Often a building has an attic space used for storing garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday use, but which can always be useful in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes simultaneously serve as a ceiling.
If the family is large, and the area of the plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be used as a living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor you can arrange cozy sleeping areas for the whole family.
Not at all necessary in a dacha building, build a full second floor, since its role can be perfectly fulfilled by an attic superstructure. By decorating it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful, healthy country atmosphere.
Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for heating the premises must still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Typically, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast iron heating and cooking stoves.
By the way, if you plan to build a real fireplace or brick stove, then they must be included in the project being compiled.
There are also ready-made versions of country houses, sold complete in disassembled form, which simply need to be delivered to the site and assembled. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions, which outline the procedure for carrying out the work, basic technological techniques and connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies.
For the owner of the site, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house yourself. The main advantage of this option is that the kit often already includes everything necessary for the building’s electrical network, its ventilation system, and even for installing the water supply.
Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name
What type of house to choose?
Having decided on the approximate plan of the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. This choice will determine not only the appearance of the building itself, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.
- The traditional material for a country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. A wooden house can be built using a frame method, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is considered to be the high fire hazard of the material.
However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, there are special fire-retardant impregnations on sale that significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is people’s neglect of basic fire safety requirements that in the overwhelming majority of cases becomes the cause of fire.
- The construction of a brick structure will cost much more, but it can with good reason be called a full-fledged house, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less susceptible to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and the high price of materials.
- Very often, different materials are used when building a country house. For example, a house is built from wood, but on a foundation made of concrete, brick or blocks.
This option can be called optimal, since a foundation made of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of walls made of wood, thus becoming a reliable foundation for the house.
It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses.
Stages of construction of a country house
Materials for building a country house
If you don’t want to bother with calculations, then it’s better to purchase a prefabricated ready-made model of a house that has a certain area, for which you only need to prepare a place.
In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.
Prices for various types of timber
Foundation material
For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:
— sand, crushed stone, cement;
- third-grade board and timber for formwork;
- brick or concrete blocks;
— waterproofing material (roofing felt);
— expanded clay of the middle fraction.
Wall and roof material
Since wood was chosen for the construction of the walls, other materials will be selected based on this:
— bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters;
— fastening elements — nails, self-tapping screws, bolts, studs;
- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening nodes;
— vapor barrier film;
— insulation — mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;
— to cover the roof, it is better to choose a lightweight material — ondulin or corrugated sheeting.
Once the installation location for the future house has been determined and the materials have been purchased, you can proceed to arranging the foundation. True, first you will have to decide on its type.
Country house foundation
Even when erecting such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you cannot do without a foundation. In this case, one of two types is ideal for these purposes - a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.
- A column foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help, which will also save some money.
You can find out in detail how to build it correctly by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.
- To create a strip foundation, you will need not only a larger amount of materials, but also a fairly long period of time. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug along the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install a reinforcement structure, build formwork and fill the foundation pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, it will take another month until the filled tape completely hardens and gains brand strength.
However, strip foundations are still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient because it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, to do this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. is described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by following the link provided.
If a columnar foundation is selected, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ 200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then pour a 30 ÷ 40 mm layer of sand into the resulting pit, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion mid-fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be filled with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done to ensure that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They cannot stand expanded clay (especially small clay), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.
Fine expanded clay is an excellent rodent repellent To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to cover the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm.
Construction of a frame structure
For a country house, the best choice is a frame structure A frame house can be placed on either a columnar or strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be reliably waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material.
- If the project includes a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general wall frame. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
- Without exception, all wooden workpieces must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of insect nests or colonies of microflora representatives - mold or fungus.
- After the workpieces have received proper preparation and are completely dry, during construction, a lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to install the floor.
In order for the floor to be reliable, it is necessary to use high-quality timber of the required cross-section for the frame. If funds allow, then it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of dimensions, but by placing a certain margin in their cross-section.
The table shows the optimal dimensions of timber for a frame house:
- The frame support beams are mounted on crown bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are secured using corners or by inserting. If the elements are large in cross-section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.
- When the lower frame with support beams is ready, the wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then lifted and secured to the frame strapping bars when finished.
Another option is to lift the frame directly into place. For example, if a house is being built independently, without helpers, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the tent alone to the height of the frame, install it evenly and temporarily fix it until it is finally secured. This means that each of the bars will have to be placed separately.
- The size of the bars for the wall frame posts must be at least 100x100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm.
The bars are secured to the lower frame using powerful corners that can hold them in a vertical position. It is best to use self-tapping screws rather than nails for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.
- When installing vertical racks, you need to immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they are to be installed free in the frame, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.
Then, when the upper strapping block is installed and secured to all other vertical posts, the area with the window opening is secured to the space left for it.
- All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side posts are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common corner post is mounted. It is recommended to support it with diagonal struts on both sides - they will add rigidity to the entire wall structure.
- The doorway is installed in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since a door suspended on hinges has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.
- If you plan to sheathe the frame from the outside with clapboard, then this is the next step. The sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow the installation of the attic floor to continue and
Installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof will be covered on the same day. It is highly undesirable for your freshly laid flooring to get wet if it rains unexpectedly at night. Therefore, it is better to first resolve the issue with the roof, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.
Roof construction and roofing
Types of rafter systems
A few words need to be said about the types of rafter systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, it is necessary to have a general idea about this, to know which design is better to choose.
There are two types of rafter systems - hanging and layered.
Hanging system
The hanging rafter system is distinguished by the fact that it is installed only on external load-bearing walls and has no other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house building. In order to lighten the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, hanging rafters are fastened with ties.
The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously serve as a frame for lining the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes.
Layered system
A layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal permanent partitions that will become additional support points. This scheme can also be used when constructing the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on the foundation.
When installing this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so it will be possible to use fewer retaining elements. It is perfect for attic structures that will be used as living quarters.
Floor beams
An important structural element is the floor beams The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit tightly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut out at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.
The beams are secured to the frame structure of the walls using nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.
Having completed the installation of the ceiling beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary plank flooring is laid on the floor beams to ensure comfortable movement along the attic plane during installation of the rafters.
Installation of the rafter system
The roof truss system can be mounted using different sequences of fastening its elements:
- First option. It is necessary to fasten the outer pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then lift them onto the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
- Second option. To begin, install the middle posts along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge beam or board, onto which the rafters are then attached.
- Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are attached to each other with a ridge plate, and their lower side is fixed to the wall frame, which in this embodiment will act as a mauerlat.
The cross-section of beams or logs used for rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two support points, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters
| Maximum permissible rafter leg length (in mm) | Rafter spacing (in mm) | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1100 | 1400 | 1750 | 2100 | |||||
| Section of the rafter leg (in mm) | ||||||||
| bars with cross-section | logs Ø | bars with cross-section | logs Ø | bars with cross-section | logs Ø | bars with cross-section | logs Ø | |
| up to 3000 | 80×100 | 100 | 80×100 | 130 | 90×100 | 150 | 90×160 | 160 |
| up to 3600 | 80×130 | 130 | 80×160 | 160 | 80×180 | 180 | 90×180 | 180 |
| up to 4300 | 80×160 | 160 | 80×180 | 180 | 90×180 | 180 | 100×200 | 200 |
| up to 5000 | 80×180 | 180 | 80×200 | 200 | 100×200 | 200 | - | - |
| up to 5800 | 80×200 | 200 | 100×200 | 200 | - | - | - | - |
| up to 6500 | 100×200 | 200 | 120×220 | 240 | - | - | - | - |
It should be noted that the attachment point for the rafters in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened to the ridge and how long they are.
If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the load-bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a notch is shown in the picture:
If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut at a right angle to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed to it using a special fastening plate, a sliding support, an angle, a bracket, nails or long screws.
If the house is very small, then after securing the rafters to the frame, tying them with ridge beams or boards, you most likely will not have to install additional supporting elements.
Detailed information about the exact details can be obtained from a special publication on our portal by following the recommended link:
For installation of additional reinforcing elements of the rafter system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:
Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters
Rafter fasteners
Roofing system
After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for the roof deck.
- The first thing that needs to be done on the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with staples and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.
The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.
- The main batten is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, onto which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the sheets of roofing material.
If a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of sheathing slats, the slopes are covered completely - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing felt, which are overlapped by 150 ÷ 200 mm and glued together with bitumen mastic. Another option is to use soft bitumen decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.
- The following roofing materials are most often used for wooden houses (depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
- The selected roofing material is laid and secured onto the prepared base. The work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are installed according to the same pattern.
Some types of roofing materials have a strictly defined installation pattern in direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions supplied with them.
Also, for any type of sheet roofing material, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ 200 mm) and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction along the roof are determined.
- Almost all roofing materials are secured to the sheathing using special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.
- It is very important to correctly select and secure the ridge elements of the roof, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Typically, the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
- Next, the eaves of the roof are finished - this can be done with wooden or plastic lining. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.
- Then elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the wind board - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.
- Next, the gable sides of the rafter system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards are used for this.
For the lining, a special profile is fixed around the perimeter of the pediment triangle, into which the prepared panels, cut at the desired angle, will be installed. Installation is usually done symmetrically - from the middle post to one side and then the other - then the cladding will be smooth and neat.
By the way, install the lining, Besides, you can do it horizontally, in a herringbone pattern, or come up with a more complex pattern.
Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.
Now, having finished the external finishing of the roof and being confident that rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can move on to installing windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.
Installation of windows and doors
- Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them and leveled. For preliminary fixation when placing the frame, spacers made of wooden blocks or slats are installed between it and the opening bars.
Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give neatness to the overall appearance of the house.
- It is best to install the door together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. This will make it much easier to align the entire structure with the level in the wall doorway.
It is best to install the door as a block - together with the frame and leaf When exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, place wedges (inserts) made of wooden slats. The door frame is secured to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with polyurethane foam.
Having installed all the windows and doors, you can proceed to installing the floor.
Installation and insulation of floors
To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.
- To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame supporting beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.
- Next, boards cut to exact size or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick are laid on the skull blocks - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
- The subfloor laid on top is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are laid overlapping (by 150 ÷ 200 mm) and taped at the joints with waterproof tape.
- Next, insulation material is laid or poured onto the vapor barrier film. If you don’t want to have neighbors who like to live under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.
- Another layer of film membrane is laid on top of the insulation, which is nailed to the supporting beams with staples. The installation principle is exactly the same as on a subfloor.
The floor is finished! - The entire structure is then covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Measures for additional thermal insulation
When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is missing, place insulation along the internal slopes of the roof.
- First, a vapor barrier material is attached to all walls and ceiling beams. Then the ceiling is covered with clapboard, plywood or plasterboard.
- After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. Insulation mats are laid between the frame posts. It is necessary to ensure that the mats fit as tightly as possible against the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.
That is why mineral wool is most often used as insulation - after being tightly laid between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.
- After this, all walls are again covered with vapor barrier film.
- The next step is covering the walls with wooden paneling, plywood or. The latter, during subsequent decorative finishing of the walls, can be painted with water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.
- Next, the attic floor is insulated, where the insulation is placed between the floor beams.
If the ceiling is sheathed on the side of the house with plasterboard or clapboard, then we must not forget that you cannot step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. You must move carefully along the floor beams.
- If the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden supplies, then a flooring made of boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm should be secured on top of the insulation on the floor beams.
- The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of platbands on windows and doors, ceiling and floor skirting boards and closing the corners with fittings.
Extensions to the house
The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and porch.
If a place is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.
If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.
Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to do without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable craftsman who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how to correctly install certain components in the structure of the house. You can “mobilize” your relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.
Video: building a country house using frame technology
