Reasons for boiling water in a boiler. Causes and ways to eliminate poor heating of radiators and radiators, as well as the entire system Boiler is hot, batteries are cold
The reason for boiler boiling is that the water in the heating system does not have time to cool sufficiently. The movement of the coolant (water) must be calculated in such a way that it has time to completely cool down on its way through all the radiators and returns to the boiler already cooled. If this does not happen, then the superheated water at the entrance to the boiler has time to boil while moving through it.
There are a number of factors that lead to overheating of water in the boiler. Each of them is based on either an incorrect calculation of the heating system or the failure of its individual elements. A more accurate determination of the sources of failure in the stable operation of the heating system requires a detailed analysis of a specific circuit.
Long-burning solid fuel boilers are most susceptible to this problem. When analyzing the origin of the malfunction, first of all it is necessary to establish at what stage of the heating installation the process of boiling water was detected. There may be two options:
- The coolant in the boiler began to boil immediately after the installation of pipes was completed and the first start-up.
- Water boiling occurred in a system that had previously worked properly for several months or years.
In the first case, you must first carefully study the performance of each device. The cause of the malfunction can be either an incorrect connection of one or more devices, or errors made during the pipe laying process.
Boiling water that appears in an already operating heating system is less common. This is usually due to the failure of the circulation pump and air entering the system. If the pump is in order, then there is a possibility of a blockage in the pipeline. The formation of limescale from inside valves or pipes causes them to narrow and slows down the rate of movement of the coolant.
Slow movement of water in the boiler
If the functions of each element of the heating system are normal, then perhaps one or more pipes have an insufficiently large diameter. Even one short section of pipeline with channels whose cross-section is less than optimal can cause a problem. The fact is that the coolant will not move fast enough through narrow channels. This leads to water retention in the system, and therefore in the boiler.
When water sits in a heated boiler for too long, it reaches a higher temperature than necessary. As a result, the liquid boils with all the ensuing consequences. Most heating systems have protection specifically for such cases, sometimes even two or three levels. However, when the protection is triggered, it is a sign that something has gone wrong.
It is also important to consider the diameter of the taps (valves) at the points where the pipes connect to the radiators. Often these places are deliberately made too narrow in order to prolong the residence time of water in the battery and to give the radiator sections the opportunity to warm up well. This technique ultimately also slows down the flow of water through the pipes.
It is especially important to manufacture a pipeline with a properly calculated diameter (at least 25 mm) in systems with natural circulation. That is, if the circuit does not include a circulation pump. In such a heating system, the movement of water is ensured by the natural laws of hydraulics and gravitational forces.
With the correct arrangement of all elements, the coolant independently begins to move during the heating process. Hotter water has less density and weight, while cold water is heavier and denser.
Adjusting the speed of water flow is only possible by decreasing or increasing the clearance of the control valves. And here there is always a limit: when all the valves are completely open, it will no longer be possible to speed up the movement of the coolant.
The role of the circulation pump
A circulation pump is a device that is installed in a heating system to create forced movement of water in it. It is installed, as a rule, on the coolant return flow circuit so that the pump works with already cooled water.
A heating system with a circulation pump is called a forced circulation heating system. If previously water moved naturally through the pipeline, then the problem of boiler boiling can be solved by installing such a pump. It will speed up the movement of the coolant and avoid excessive retention of liquid in the boiler, which led to its boiling.
At the same time, such a solution is only a temporary measure. At the first power outage, the pump will stop working and the water in the boiler will immediately begin to boil. It will be impossible to use heating during this period, even if it has boiling protection systems. All measures to prevent water from boiling in a system with a stopped pump are emergency. They are aimed only at maintaining the integrity of the boiler and pipes for a short period until the boiler cools down.
If the water in the boiler has boiled and the pump in the system is working properly, then the circulation pump should be calibrated. It can be configured either to produce insufficient pressure or to create excessively high pressure. In both cases, the phenomenon of so-called cavitation occurs, leading to the appearance of air bubbles in the water.
You can correct the situation using the following techniques. First, the pump must be set to the slowest operating mode. If the boiling stopped, then the problem was that the apparatus was creating excess pressure. The solution is to place a bypass with a balancing valve in the area between the point where water enters the device and the outlet.
For contour pumps, there are standards for inlet and outlet pressure. This indicator at the point of water entry is 0.8 bar, and at the outlet - 1 bar. Deviation from standard values inevitably leads to cavitation. Cavitation is harmful because it causes the formation of air bubbles in the water, which harm all elements of the system. It is because of them, among other things, that the coolant in the boiler boils.
Another case that leads to the appearance of cavitation is the installation of a pump in the boiler and a circuit pump in counterflow. When the scheme requires the placement of two pumps, then when installing each device there is a possibility of them being placed in counterflow. If, after inspecting the system, this installation error is discovered, it should be eliminated.
Boiler power too high
A newly installed heating system with a boiling boiler is, most often, an incorrectly selected power of the heating unit. There is an average indicator of the required power to heat 10 m² of residential building area. This figure is 1 kW, provided that the house was not insulated using enhanced heat-protection technologies.
Thus, we can say that for a small house with an area of up to 100 sq. m is enough for a 10 kW boiler. Of course, installing a unit with a small margin of up to 12-13 kW is also possible, but including a boiler with a power of 20 kW or more in such a scheme is unacceptable.
The coolant simply will not have time to cool in the radiators and will return to the boiler still hot. Additional heating of not completely cooled water will sooner or later cause it to boil.
The cauldron is boiling. What to do?
Boiling water in a boiler is a non-standard situation. The design provides for the possibility of boiling the coolant, but it will not be able to work for a long time in this mode. Therefore, the first thing to do is set the thermostat to zero and wait until the combustion process in the firebox stops.
Attention! If your solid fuel boiler does not have measures to protect against boiling, and the heating system is sealed, then boiling of the coolant can cause an accident. There are even cases when long-burning boilers explode under the pressure of the steam formed inside.
In closed heating systems without automatic safety channels for releasing pressure, be sure to open the air valve on the radiator, if there is one. This will prevent the possibility of damage to pipe connections or other elements from internal pressure in the system.
Further operation of the heating system, where water boiling in the boiler was once detected, is permissible only after possible faults have been eliminated. This is done in practice using one of the methods described below:
- Installation of a thermal accumulator (TA)
- Accelerating water movement by installing a circulation pump or eliminating areas with poor coolant flow
- Correct pump settings to eliminate the cavitation effect
- Installation of additional sections to existing radiators or placement of new batteries in rooms with insufficiently comfortable temperatures
- Eliminating possible sources of air entering the heating system
Thermal accumulator as the best solution
Including a heat accumulator in the heating system is the most optimal way to overcome the situation when the boiler constantly boils. A properly selected heat accumulator will not only avoid overheating of the water in the boiler, but will also make it possible to enter the boiler room less often to add fuel.
The principle behind the effectiveness of this solution is to increase the total amount of water in the hydraulic circuit. Even a very powerful boiler will need considerable time to warm up an additional buffer tank with a volume of 1400-2000 liters.
Heat pumps require a constant supply of electricity to force water flow through the system. A power outage, even for a short period, will inevitably lead to boiler boiling if (TA) is not placed in the circuit. In the event of an emergency overheating of the coolant, a large reservoir of water will take on the excess heat produced by the boiler and prevent the liquid from heating to the boiling point.
In addition to solving the problem of overheating, the TA also performs the function of storing thermal energy. That is, its use is not limited only to defensive purposes, like other options listed in the article. The heat accumulator makes it possible to extend the periods between approaches to firing the boiler with a new portion of fuel.
A large volume of hot water in the buffer tank allows you to maintain heat in a private home long after the fuel in the boiler has completely burned out. This is especially true for regions where in winter the temperature drops below -25 °C. During these periods, the need to add fuel may appear from 4-5 to 6-7 times a day. The heat accumulator will reduce trips by up to 2-3 times.
Thus, installing a heat accumulator is a comprehensive solution that guarantees the safety of using the heating system and eliminates the possibility of the boiler boiling. In addition, the placement of heating units significantly increases the level of ease of heating operation. Most of the heating season is not characterized by particularly low temperatures. This means that if you have a heat accumulator, one or two fuel fills during the day will be quite enough to maintain a comfortable temperature in the house.
Many people have found themselves in a situation where the heating radiator does not heat up or the heating is insufficient. There are few reasons for poor radiator heating, but in each case they are eliminated differently.
Basic information about the design of the heating system
The heating system comes in two types: one-pipe, the so-called Leningradka, and two-pipe. In apartment buildings, single-pipe is predominantly used. The vast majority of individual properties and recent new buildings use a two-pipe system.
In a single-pipe system, the coolant enters a single riser, from where it is distributed to the radiators. Supply is carried out from the first or last floor, which is not of fundamental importance. Bypasses are used to ensure uniform water supply to all batteries. Thanks to them, the required amount of water enters the radiator, the rest moves to the next sections. The disadvantage of a one-pipe system is that batteries that are located closer to the inlet or boiler warm up better. The furthest ones in the system may not warm up enough.
In a two-pipe system, each radiator is independently connected to two risers. Hot water is supplied from one, cooled water goes to the other. Ignorance of the features of heating systems of various types sometimes leads to dire consequences, especially when unskilled workers are involved in repairs.
Infrequently, but there are cases when old batteries in a single-pipe system are replaced with modern aluminum ones. The expected effect does not occur, because aluminum appliances are designed for a two-pipe system, the coolant current weakens. Moreover, due to poor water circulation, they become clogged. There is only one way out - to repair old batteries or install new ones suitable for a single-pipe system.
The main reasons for poor battery warm-up and how to eliminate them
There are two main reasons why batteries do not heat up - air lock and clogged radiators. The air lock interferes with the circulation of the coolant, the radiator does not warm up well or remains cold. The way out of the situation is simple - remove the air.
Modern systems have a special tap at the top of each battery for bleeding air. It is turned with a screwdriver or adapter. If there is air in the system, you will hear a hissing sound. The tap is kept open for some time until coolant flows out of it. If the air lock is very large, it may not be possible to completely bleed the air at one time. Wait ten minutes and try again until you feel the battery warming up completely.
Do not release a lot of coolant, hoping to remove air along with it. This threatens a loss of pressure and possible shutdown of the boiler in a private home.
On cast iron radiators that have been installed for a long time, there is most likely no air bleed valve. The simple job of bleeding the air turns into a complex and dirty one. There are two approaches to removing air from a cast iron battery. The first is through the coupling on the coolant supply to the radiator, the second is by loosening the plug in the battery. In each case, it is not necessary to completely unscrew the coupling or plug; they are turned a little until a hiss appears.
It is important to determine in which direction the coupling or plug should be unscrewed, because radiators use both right-hand and left-hand threads. Where the coupling turns is determined by the protruding part of the thread. The letter “L” is stamped on the plug with a left-hand thread; turn it to the right. It is important not to overdo it, especially when unscrewing the coupling, because the pipes can be rusty and can collapse from excessive force. Just in case, before screwing, wrap a little tow with paint or fumlenta onto the threads so that water does not seep through the broken connection.
Clogged radiators are the second common cause of poor heat supply. The system becomes clogged for two reasons: physical wear due to long-term use or the supply of dirty water to the system without filtration. More often than not, salts have been deposited on the inner walls for many years and the system becomes clogged. Sometimes the deposits are so thick that the coolant is completely unable to get through the narrow cracks. There is only one way out - replacing the radiators, and sometimes also the pipes.
Do not drain water unless absolutely necessary. Each dose of fresh water adds sediment and clogs the system.
If the clogging is minor, the batteries are washed. It is better to carry out work when the heating is not working. If you have to resort to such an operation during the heating season. Then disconnect the batteries by turning the taps and remove. Not all systems have valves to turn off radiators. Before cleaning the system, water is drained in individual properties; in a multi-story building, the supply is shut off. During the heating season, be careful - the water is very hot.
Clean the battery under high pressure. To do this, take the batteries outside, tightly connect the battery with a water source with a hose and blow it out. Rinsing with water from the tap will not work; some of the debris will still remain in the radiator. If a blockage is found in one battery, flush the others as well; they are almost certainly clogged too.
Why doesn't the battery warm up in a private house?
In the private sector, in addition to the above reasons for unsatisfactory heating performance, there are others. Private houses have almost 100 percent autonomous heating. The cause of poor heating may be the heating boiler. Most likely, the boiler power is calculated incorrectly; it is not enough to heat the coolant to an acceptable temperature. If the automatic boiler does not turn off, this is a sure sign of insufficient power.
If the boiler is running, the liquid will still warm up. When the radiators are completely cold, the heating unit is broken or does not turn on. Modern boilers turn on when the minimum pressure level in the system is observed. The boiler will not turn on if it is less. Also, modern boilers are equipped with a security system. For example, in a gas boiler there is a sensor that is responsible for ensuring that exhaust gases go into the chimney. If for some reason the smoke does not go away completely, the automation will work, the boiler will turn off and will not turn on until the problems are corrected.
What other reasons are there why the battery in the house does not heat? The pressure in the system may be too low and, as a result, circulation is disrupted. If the batteries are old, this reason is unlikely, because two atmospheres (the usual pressure of a home system) is enough for them. But some modern batteries require higher pressure. Before installing them, it is worth looking at the passport to see if the system can create the required pressure.
You can slightly increase the pressure in the system by installing a circulation pump with an appropriate system capacity.
Since heating in private homes is often done by people who are illiterate in this regard, installation errors are possible, causing the heating to be weak. It is believed that the use of a single-pipe system saves pipes, but due to the peculiarities of the system, the heating of the batteries weakens as they move away from the boiler or they remain completely cold. In addition, batteries remote from the boiler should have more sections. It's impossible to save money.
In a private house, a two-pipe system is much more efficient, but errors are possible during its installation, which will affect the heating efficiency. Such errors include:
- incorrect installation of shut-off valves;
- incorrectly connected batteries;
- The pipe diameters were selected randomly.
With such errors, effective circulation is not ensured and the heating battery does not warm up. There is only one way out - to invite a specialist and eliminate the errors. And in order not to pay twice, initially entrust such responsible work to a proven, qualified specialist.
Many problems can be avoided if you do a few things first. Autonomous heating of a private house has an expansion tank for the system. If you weld a faucet to the lower pipe and gradually feed water into it, the air lock will escape through the tank. The system is filled with water through the same tap, then plugs will not appear. The only thing required is an assistant to monitor the water level in the tank.
To remove air from cast iron batteries, install a Mayevsky tap on the top plug. This is not at all difficult, you just need to unscrew the plug in the summer, drill a hole of the required diameter in the center and cut the thread with the required pitch. The plugs are made of cast iron, the material is easy to process.
If the battery does not give off heat well for no apparent reason, it may be touching the wall. The larger the contact area, the more heat is wasted. Eliminate contact by moving the radiator slightly away. Do not cover the batteries with decorative grilles, which reduce heat transfer. It is better to attach a reflective screen made of foil material behind the radiator - heat transfer will increase.
The heating system seems simple only at first glance, but in fact it has its own secrets and tricks. Everything seems complicated and confusing for a beginner. But once you understand the issue, the main points become clearer.
It happens that the heating system malfunctions, and a situation arises - the boiler is working, but all the batteries, or at least part of them, are cold. Let's look at a dozen reasons for this state of affairs, how to fix the breakdowns yourself, without involving...
It's easier with automated boilers
If the boiler is automated, gas or electric, then, as a rule, the automation will not allow overheating of the coolant in the boiler itself when the supply to the batteries for some reason stops. The protections will turn off the device, show an error code, then you need to draw conclusions from this information.
A breakdown of the boiler itself can be repaired by service. It is not recommended to open complex equipment yourself.
Cold radiators, when an automated boiler is running, may occur not only due to the breakdown of complex equipment, but also because... (the most common reasons).
- Air pockets in radiators and on U-shaped elevations of the pipeline. Bleed the air using Mayevsky's taps. Install air vents; if they are not there, convert the system to “normal”.
- Clogged filter, silting of the lower section of the pipes. Check the return filter at the boiler inlet.
Wrong system
For example, in a parallel circuit, if the installation rules are violated, the middle radiators in the ring may turn out to be cold when the boiler is running. Eliminated by balancing or rewiring.
The following is also possible:
- The valves are closed - check the valves, including tuning and balancing valves, which regulated the flow along individual dead-end branches, to individual radiators.
- A sequential battery connection scheme was used, in which the last radiators in the pipe are always colder or do not heat up at all... Rework, use modern circuits.
- Various complex inclusions of radiators, “where everything is confusing.” Remodel and use conventional two-pipe heating systems - dead-end, passing, radial with the presence of balancing valves...
Pipe problems
Polypropylene pipes can create a surprise. When welding them, the internal clearances are not controlled. The installer does not guarantee anything. It is not uncommon for the boiler to heat up, but the polypropylene system is not working properly, some of the batteries are colder for some reason, some are disconnected...
First of all, start resoldering and finding the bottleneck. Or replace the pipes with more reliable ones.
- In any system, there is debris in the coolant. If there are U-shaped depressions in highways, there may be congestion.
- Perhaps just old steel pipes? Their service life is limited; from the inside they become overgrown with deposits and heating stops.
In systems without automation
There is a threat of a serious accident, destruction of the boiler if it is working and the batteries are cold. In a solid fuel heat generator, if the fuel is burning, the liquid in the heat exchanger will boil very quickly if there is no circulation and heat removal, i.e. if the heating system remains cold.
This is not an acceptable situation, which is prevented by installing an uninterruptible power supply for the circulation pump. And also by regularly checking the filter.
First of all, in such systems the operation of the circulation pump is checked, which is often located on the return line near the boiler.
Complex systems - what is the solution
Nowadays there are more and more complex heating systems. Such piping of a private house can be divided into several independent circuits, each of which has its own circulation pump. For example: - radiators of a house, heated floors in a house, an indirect heating boiler, a greenhouse, a garage and a workshop, an outbuilding, and a separate attic.
It’s not uncommon for something like this to be connected to a couple of working boilers (the backup one doesn’t count).
In order for a complex circuit to work stably, all these circuits must be connected to some kind of distributor, which would provide them with the same initial stable pressure, regardless of the operation of neighboring circuits. In complex systems (more than 4 circuits) this is done using a hydraulic arrow or a primary circulation ring of pipes.
Incompetent design or installation under such circumstances leads to the fact that some of the pipelines and batteries remain cold when the boiler is running. Those. one circuit influences the other. The solution is to create a competent scheme.
Situations in apartments
In apartments with central heating everything is simpler. The heating circuit there is not complicated - one or more radiators are connected in parallel to the risers.
- If the riser is cold, it means that the air at the top has not been vented, or the distribution along the risers has not been adjusted. In any case, you need to contact someone to bleed and adjust...
- If the riser is hot and the edge of the battery is cold, then there can be two reasons - the batteries are airy, and you need to bleed the air yourself. Or - a small pressure on the riser - you need to understand it as in the previous paragraph.
- There is also a common problem in apartments - clogging and overgrowing of old cast iron radiators. It also happens that it’s time to change them for new ones, otherwise nothing will help...
Removing cold batteries according to the above descriptions for all reasons, of course, requires certain qualifications. If you can’t do it yourself, then you need to call specialists. Particular care must be taken when handling battery plugs in apartments, since any violation of the system threatens an accident, boiling water, flooding of apartments...
A change in the heating operating temperature can be caused by a number of internal reasons. Many of them negatively affect the efficiency of the system, increasing energy costs. In such cases, a reasonable question arises: why does the heating not heat up: radiators, batteries, pumps, systems? The first step is to find the causes of the problem.
Common heating problems
The operating principle of any heating system is to effectively transfer thermal energy from the energy carrier (gas, solid fuel, diesel, etc.) to water in pipes. The task of heating devices (radiators, radiators, pipes) is to transfer the resulting heat into the room.
And if the heating radiator does not heat, the reasons for this may lie both in the design itself and in the parameters of the system as a whole. Let's consider the common reasons for a decrease in the efficiency of a heating system:
- Low efficiency of the boiler heat exchanger. The water does not heat up to the required temperature;
- A particular radiator does not heat well. Possible reasons: improper installation, formation of air pockets;
- Changes in the technical characteristics of the system - an increase in hydrodynamic resistance in certain sections of the pipeline, a decrease in the bore diameter of pipes, etc. Most often, the consequence of such phenomena is that the heating circulation pump gets very hot.
In some cases, not one, but several of the listed problems arise. Often the main one is the root cause of the appearance of the following ones. Thus, the formation of an air lock affects the increase in hydrodynamic resistance, and as a result, an increased load on the circulation pump occurs.
Decorative grilles should not be installed on a heating radiator with poor heating or covered with a panel. Thus, the already low efficiency of its work will be artificially reduced.
Radiator does not heat up
Most often, problems with normal heat transfer occur in heating radiators. This is explained by their specific design - the coolant does not move through one pipe, as in a transport line, but is distributed over several.
In what cases does the heating radiator not heat? There are several factors that directly affect the correct operation of the battery.
Air locks in heating
There are several reasons for the appearance of air locks in the heating system - excess temperature, water evaporation, etc. It is important that the consequence of this is the appearance of places in the line that are not filled with coolant. Most often these are heating radiators. To eliminate them, it is necessary to install a Mayevsky valve - an air valve that releases excess air from the device.
How to determine why a radiator does not heat well? The simplest method is a temperature difference on the surface. At the point where the air lock forms, it will be significantly lower, thereby preventing the normal passage of the coolant. To eliminate it, you must perform the following steps:
- Using a screwdriver or a rotary lever, the Mayevsky tap is opened;
- Add water to the system until the coolant begins to flow out of the tap along with the air;
- Shut off the water supply.
After starting the heating system, the surface of the radiator should heat evenly. Otherwise, repeat the procedure.
For normal heating of the radiator, you need to install an adjustable thermostat. Depending on the set temperature, it will automatically adjust the volume of coolant.
Improper installation and limescale deposits in pipes
The efficiency of its operation depends on the correct installation of the radiator. It should not be inclined relative to the plane of the floor and wall. If this condition has not been met, then the question will inevitably arise - why the heating battery does not heat.
To check the correct installation of the radiator, you can take a standard building level. If the upper plane of the battery has deviations, re-installation should be performed. It is best to use new reinforced fasteners for this.
If after this the question of why the heating radiator does not heat remains unresolved, it is recommended to flush the heating system. This problem is relevant for old pipes and radiators made of steel and cast iron. Over time, a limescale layer accumulates on the inner surface, preventing the normal flow of coolant. There are several ways to perform the washing procedure:
- Hydraulic. A special pump is connected to the system circuit, which creates high water pressure. Under the influence of this force, the scale is broken into small fractions and retained in the pump filter;
- Chemical. Special additives act on limescale, which loses its uniformity and flakes off from the inner surface. Subsequently, hydraulic flushing is performed to remove residual debris.
Experts recommend using a comprehensive method to solve the problem in which the radiator does not heat up. After checking the correct installation, the system is flushed, and then filled correctly with the Mayevsky tap open.
If a two-pipe heating system does not heat due to clogged pipes, you need to carefully choose a cleaning technology. For pipelines made of polypropylene, chemical cleaning cannot be done.
The boiler does not heat the radiators
Often, a two-pipe heating system does not heat due to the low heat transfer rate of the boiler exchange circuit. This leads to a decrease in temperature and, as a consequence, a loss of efficiency of the entire system. Not every boiler model provides an easy way to dismantle the heat exchanger. If the heating does not heat well due to the appearance of plaque on the internal elements of the boiler, you can perform flushing without this procedure. To do this you will need a pump with a filtration system. The cleaning procedure is as follows:
- Disconnecting the boiler from the general heating system;
- Connection to the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump hoses;
- Filling a special cleaning liquid into the boiler heat exchanger;
- Using a centrifugal pump increases the speed of fluid passing through the boiler.
After this, the radiators should not heat up poorly. Particular attention should be paid to the flushing fluid. It should not harm the metal elements of the boiler and system. Therefore, at the end of the procedure, the entire system should be rinsed with distilled water.
To avoid the appearance of scale, before pouring water into the heating system, you need to reduce its hardness level. The use of running water is not recommended as it contains large amounts of calcium and magnesium bicarbonates. They are the main source of limescale deposits not only in the boiler heat exchanger, but also in pipes and radiators.
The best way to clean the heat exchanger is to dismantle it. This way you can not only remove the entire volume of scale, but also ensure its integrity. After this procedure, the heating system should not heat poorly.
Pipelines: reasons for low heating
Failures in the heating mode are typical for a two-pipe heating system. In this case, the supply line that distributes the coolant to the radiators does not heat. Identification of the “problem” area can be done by measuring the temperature on the surface of the pipes or a thermal imager.
Natural circulation
What could cause such problems? If the heating does not heat well, the slope of the line may not be observed. This only applies to natural circulation systems. According to the standards, the slope of the pipes should be 10 mm per 1 m.p. In addition, the direction is taken into account - from the accelerating riser to the radiators. For the return pipe, the slope must be towards the boiler.
At the first stage, it is necessary to measure this indicator using a building level. If it meets the standard, but the heating radiator does not heat, there is a possibility of air pockets forming. In this case, an integrated approach is recommended, which includes the following steps:
- Measuring the angle of inclination. If necessary, change it to the required value;
- Flushing pipes to remove limescale;
- Filling the system with coolant with open Mayevsky taps on the radiators.
This technique will eliminate the low heat transfer rate of the heating system.
To improve circulation, a circulation pump can be installed in open systems. If it overheats, you need to install an additional one. This is often necessary for branched heating systems.
Forced coolant circulation
For a system with forced movement of water in pipes, the formation of air locks can be avoided by using an air vent installed at the top of the system. In part, it performs the functions of an open expansion tank, but it does not reduce the pressure in the pipes to a critical level. Its absence is an indirect cause of poor heating of the radiator.
The specificity of closed heating systems is that it is not necessary to comply with the installation level of the pipes. However, when the critical heating level of the coolant is exceeded, steam is released, which is the main cause of air locks. Since air has a lower density than water, it will concentrate in the upper region of the pipeline sections. If heating radiators in a closed system do not heat well, the reason may be a decrease in the volume of coolant in the pipes due to air resistance.
What needs to be done in this case? First of all, check the functionality of the air vents. If the valve is idle for a long time, it may become covered with limescale, which makes it impossible to open it under air pressure.
The boiler is the main device in the heating system. It is used to transfer the generated thermal energy to the coolant. All boilers operate on the same principle.
The automation built into the boiler, using sensors and thermostats, determines at what point it needs to turn on in order to maintain the set temperature. Water is heated in a heat exchanger thanks to a pump that forces water to circulate throughout the heating system circuit. Boilers are manufactured as single-circuit and double-circuit. Single-circuit ones have only one circuit designed for heating.
In double-circuit systems there are two circuits - one circuit for heating, and the second for heating water. A distinctive feature of a double-circuit boiler is that two circuits cannot operate simultaneously; the boiler can either heat the room or heat water for domestic needs.
Boilers are available: floor-mounted and wall-mounted.
REFERENCE: Floor-standing boilers are produced only as single-circuit ones. If there is a need to heat water, you will have to purchase a storage boiler.
Floor-standing boilers are larger in size compared to wall-mounted ones, but they are less demanding in terms of operating conditions. Boilers operate on different energy sources: gas, coal, wood, fuel oil.
The most popular among users are gas boilers, due to the fact that they do not require time and effort to load fuel. Once you connect the boiler to the gas pipeline, you can use the heating to your satisfaction. The main thing is to correctly select the power of the boiler and the volume of water that it can heat in one hour.
Main boiler malfunctions
Gas boilers are reliable and durable, but like any equipment or machinery, they require maintenance and repair over time. All faults are classified into obvious and non-obvious. Some boiler models have a built-in fault detector.
If the boiler is working and the batteries are cold, this may indicate that:
- Insufficient voltage in the network or a power surge due to which some parts may burn out;
- Insufficient natural gas pressure - less than 20 bar;
- The pressure in the heating system is less than 0.5 bar;
Unobvious boiler breakdowns:
- The most common is the failure of one of the main spare parts of the boiler: heat exchanger, thermostat, pump;
- The flow sensor is faulty;
- Gas valve problems;
- Clogged filters;
- Open circuit of the sensor in the boiler thermostat.
A specialist from a boiler service center who has experience, sufficient knowledge and special equipment to diagnose the malfunction will help identify a non-obvious breakdown.
Sometimes people complain that the boiler turns on and works, but the water in the radiators remains cold or slightly warm. The main cause of the malfunction is incorrect setting or malfunction of the main parts: heat exchanger, pump or three-way valve.
Of all the boiler problems, the most common malfunction is the formation of deposits in the heat exchanger. This occurs due to the use of hard tap water, like in a kettle where water is boiled. The heat exchanger in the boiler serves to transfer the heat it received during the combustion of energy carriers to cold water in the heating system, which passes through it.
The scale, having formed, does not allow the water to come into contact with the metal tubes and, passing through the heat exchanger with the scale, does not have time to warm up. To remove scale, they produce special liquid products that eliminate it, with which it is necessary to rinse the heat exchanger.
A single-circuit boiler heats up, but the radiators do not heat up due to the fact that a part such as a pump, which is supposed to pump hot water through the radiators, often fails. The reason for the incorrect operation of the pump may lie in the rotor, which could be jammed, or in the accumulation of air.
How to repair the system
Initially, to determine whether the pump is faulty, you should check the operation of the rotor; to do this, you need to unscrew the plug nut at the end of the pump. When unscrewing, a small amount of water will flow out. Next, you need to insert a screwdriver inside and turn the pump shaft.
If air has accumulated in the pump, open the air vent and bleed it. The air vent looks like a cap that rises up and rotates around an axis. At the moment of descent, a certain hissing sound will be heard, as if you deflate a balloon. If all these manipulations do not help, you will have to replace the faulty part with a new one. Since repairs are quite difficult to perform, and the service is not cheap.
Important: If you do not have enough qualifications in boiler repair, it is better to invite a specialist from the service department. Since incorrect actions during your repair process can cause even greater damage to the boiler. And in the case of gas boilers, this is also life-threatening.
Advice from professionals: how to prevent problems from occurring
A gas boiler can last a long time without breakdowns if preventative maintenance is carried out in a timely manner. The most vulnerable part in boilers is the heat exchanger; due to the use of tap water, it needs regular cleaning. But not only the heat exchanger needs to be flushed, but also the heating system with radiators.
- If antifreeze is used as a coolant, once every five years will be sufficient;
- If water is used as a coolant, it will need to be flushed once every ten years. Provided that water is not periodically added to the heating system;
- Preventative work should be carried out in the summer.
