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How to make an artificial decorative stone from gypsum with your own hands. DIY artificial stone for facade composition How synthetic stones are made

Today, finishing building facades with natural stone is very common. However, such a stone is quite expensive. As an alternative, you can use a solution that involves making artificial stone yourself. It should be noted that stone made in artisanal conditions will not be inferior to natural stone, and you will save a lot of money. Using artificial stone to decorate facades, you can create a unique design. With all this, making artificial stone yourself is not such a difficult task.

Advantages of artificial stone

According to some studies, when properly manufactured, artificial stone can surpass natural stone in mechanical properties and durability. The following characteristic advantages stand out:

• Can be produced in thin tiles. This will reduce the weight of the object on which the stone will be mounted.
• You can make stones of different textures and colors.
• It is possible to produce artificial stone directly at the site of future installation, so there is no need to spend additional money on delivery.
• To avoid polishing, grinding and sawing, you can immediately produce tiles that are smooth to a shine.
• It is possible to produce rubble stone of irregular shape.

Note! If you create an imitation of a polymer binder, the product will be thermoplastic. Accordingly, the workpiece can then be formed, bent and joined seamlessly.

Types of artificial decorative stone

Do-it-yourself artificial stone can be made using different technologies:

During manufacturing, the stone is fired at the required temperature. This type of stone must be produced over large areas, so it is not suitable for home production.

This stone can be produced at home. Gypsum artificial stone is used only for interior decoration.

The service life of molds for producing stone from concrete is significantly less, in contrast to molds intended for casting gypsum stone. In terms of cost, concrete stone will cost a little more than gypsum stone, but such stone can also be made at home.

Reinforced concrete.

Its production is carried out piece by piece. In this case, production takes place directly on site. Thanks to free forming, you can make cobblestones, artificial boulders and slabs, subsequently creating, for example, a rock garden.

Polyester artificial stone with hot-curing mineral filler.

This stone has outstanding mechanical and decorative properties. However, it is not suitable for home production, since special conditions must be created for it to harden.

Cold curing cast acrylic.

Perhaps its handicraft production. Manufacturing conditions are similar to those required for the production of gypsum stone. After manufacturing, the shape of the stone can be changed, which does not in any way affect the quality of the finished product.

Liquid stone on a helium acrylic binder - gelcoat.

As for its mechanical properties, it is second only to cast. The thing is that a smaller part of the mineral filler can be introduced into the gel. At home, you can make stones of quite complex configurations.

So, it’s up to you to choose which method of making artificial stone. If you want to make stone for interior decoration, then give preference to acrylic and gypsum. As for external finishing work, a material that is not afraid of moisture is needed. Therefore, the best would be a cement-based composition. If we talk about price, then acrylic stone is the most expensive, followed by concrete stone and gypsum stone. To ensure high quality of the finished product, fillers can be added to the mixture: sand, marble chips, fine crushed stone. Among other things, this will save on the source material. Fiber fiber is additionally added to increase strength. This product prevents the appearance of microcracks in finished products. It is recommended to use a plasticizer. This way you can increase the density of the artificial stone, since the amount of water in the solution is minimized.

How to achieve the desired color

To give artificial stone a beautiful look, you can first paint it. How to do it? Special pigments are used for coloring. For example, they can be applied to the mold immediately before pouring the solution into them. In this case, the form must be partially painted over, which allows you to create an imitation of natural stone.

Note! It is extremely important to use not just a color for paints, but a high-quality pigment. They are iron oxide inorganic dyes.

To prevent the paint from cracking or washing off, it is mixed with a fresh solution and first applied to the mold. Subsequently, it will penetrate approximately 3 mm deep into the stone. And this is enough so that the paint does not wash off. As for the volume and quantity of pigment, its specific proportion is determined by the sampling method. To do this, you can make several experimental tiles and, after drying them completely, see what color you get. This is the only way to achieve exactly the color you need.

Let's consider three methods of making stone: from gypsum, acrylic and cement.

Making artificial stone from gypsum

The method of making artificial stone from gypsum is considered the most popular. To produce gypsum stone you will need a set of the following materials:

• white plaster,
• anhydride,
• warm water,
• fine sand,
• container for mixing ingredients,
• matrix,
• pallet,
• corrugated glass,
• water based paint.

You won’t need a lot of work space, but despite this, the work area should be well equipped. It’s a good idea to have racks or shelves nearby on which the workpieces will be laid out. All working tools should be at hand. The entire work process goes according to the following plan:

• When mixing gypsum, you should not make a reserve. Gypsum hardens very quickly, so try to accurately calculate the required amount of gypsum solution. Of course, there won’t be a big problem if a little plaster remains.
• You will purchase gypsum in dry form, so it should be mixed with water; determine the proportion yourself by eye.
• During the mixing process, add gypsum gradually, this will make it easier to achieve a homogeneous mass. The consistency of the mass itself should be thick.
• To give the future workpiece strength, you need to add sand in the amount of 10% of the total volume of the mixture.
• At the next stage, the mold should be greased with wax and turpentine. If you ignore this step, you will not be able to remove the workpiece from the mold. Make a water bath to dissolve the wax. This way you can apply a thin layer of wax to the surface of the mold.
• During the drying process, shells may form in the workpiece. To eliminate them, you can pour liquid gypsum.
• If you need to add color to the stone, add pigment while mixing the plaster. We talked above about how to do this correctly.
• When the mixture is poured into the mold, it is necessary to level it with a spatula and compact it thoroughly.
• To ensure that the gypsum is evenly distributed over the mold, corrugated glass is placed on the surface and the vibration process is performed for two minutes.
• The plaster itself will harden within 20 minutes. The glass is then separated from the mold without any problems. The form itself is removed. When all the workpieces have been removed, they must be placed in fresh air where they are completely dry.
• After the plaster has dried, you can additionally apply paint in several layers.

After all these steps are completed, the artificial gypsum stone is ready for installation. If you work well during the day, you can make a lot of stones.

Making artificial stone from acrylic

A small acrylic stone can be made within three hours. It must contain the following components:

1. Hardener 2-4%.
2. Acrylic resin 25%.
3. Composite material or other filler 70%.
4. Pigment.

The work process is quite simple and does not require special technology.

1. First of all, all the above components are thoroughly mixed.
2. Afterwards the mixture is poured into the prepared form.
3. The hardening process should take place at a temperature of 25 °C. These are ideal conditions.

Note! Acrylic resin tends to stick. Therefore, a form is needed to which it does not stick: metal, glass, polyethylene.

The entire drying process of acrylic stone can take about two hours. If there are enough molds, then you can make them with a short interval, and each batch should dry well, and only then it can be removed from the mold.

Making artificial stone from cement

To make an artificial stone from cement, you will need to first prepare the following tools and material:

1. Portland cement.
2. Warm water, preferably purified.
3. Putty knife.
4. Container for mixing cement.
5. Fine sand.
6. Composition for separation.
7. Forms for stone.
8. Mesh to give strength to the stone.

So, when you have everything at hand, you can begin the manufacturing process.

1. For the first layer, it is necessary to mix sand with cement in a ratio of 3:1. The solution should be distributed in silicone or polyurethane form.
2. After adding water and thoroughly mixing, the mass should resemble sour cream in consistency.
3. As for adding paint, it is best to do it at this stage.
4. So, when the mixture is ready, spread it halfway up the mold.
5. Then the mesh is cut to the required size, which will be laid in the next layer. This will make the stone durable. After laying it on the mixture, fill the remainder with silicone.
6. Once pouring is complete, run a sharp object across the surface to create a groove that will provide better adhesion to the surface.

After all this, the stone should dry thoroughly. After twelve hours, the blanks are removed and placed in the fresh air until completely dry.

Note! Regardless of what you will make the artificial stone from, the molds must be thoroughly washed at the end of the work. This will allow them to be reused in the future if necessary.

Where can I get a mold for artificial stone?

Without such a simple object as a form, it is impossible to make an artificial stone. Moreover, its quality directly depends on the form itself. The easiest way out is probably to go to a hardware store and buy ready-made forms. However, if we talk about the difference between store-bought forms and those made yourself, then you won’t be able to save much.

The only advantage of making it yourself is the uniqueness of the shape. You can save money by making several molds of different sizes at once. Molds can be made from wood and silicone.

Making a wooden mold

At first glance, the option of making forms from wood may seem primitive. But actually it is not. For the base you do not have to buy expensive material. A few old boards and slats are enough to make sides. To make the front part of the stone have a unique appearance, take old boards, which may even be slightly broken. But as for the sides, they must be even. The same applies to partitions inside the form. This will ensure that the seams are even during the laying process. Although you can specify a shape of any size and type. It all depends on your imagination and creativity. The entire workpiece is nailed together. It is important to compact it to such an extent that the solution does not leak out of it. This is how you can very simply and quickly make a mold for artificial stone. Filling is carried out using the technology you choose.

This option can be called budget. So to speak, in case there are no other available options. As practice shows, working with such forms is problematic, but quite possible. Today, there are other technologies that make it possible to make more convenient forms for pouring stone, for example, from silicone.

As for this mold making technology, it will require more time from you. You will need to purchase consumables.

First you need to collect samples for the mold. This will largely depend on the shapes and sizes you want to achieve in the end result. For example, you can choose natural stone. Moreover, it can be broken into fragments or the edges of the stone can be ground/cut off. Next, you will need to make a mold for casting. To do this, you need to use an old wooden box. If it doesn’t exist, then you can put it together yourself. Each blank must be well fastened together so that the box does not fall apart during the pouring process. Then place the prepared stones on the bottom of the box. Place them flat side down. There should be a few centimeters between the stones.

Note! To prevent silicone from flowing under the samples, the bottom of the box can be coated with liquid plasticine and a stone can be placed on top of it.

Now it's time to prepare the silicone. There is nothing complicated here. The most important thing is to strictly follow the instructions for preparing it. All components must be thoroughly mixed using a mixer. When the mixture is ready, let it sit for about thirty minutes. After this time, you can begin pouring.

Immediately before pouring the silicone, make sure that the stones are positioned correctly and each one is in its place. In order for the silicone to lay evenly, it must be constantly compacted, this will prevent the formation of voids. Silicone should be poured until it covers the surface of the stones by 50 mm. After filling, place the mold with filled silicone in a dark place for two days. Depending on external factors, the hardening process may take up to one week. When the mold has hardened, you need to remove the side sides of the box and carefully detach the finished silicone mold from the stone. The silicone mold is ready! You can also make a mold from polyurethane.

Now you know how to make artificial stone and the molds for its production.

To make this facing material with your own hands, you will need special molds for decorative products. With them, production will not take much time and will be done correctly. We will look at how to make decorative stones with your own hands for interior decoration.

Artificial stone, what is it?

Natural material is expensive, so there was a need for a finishing material with the same characteristics, but at a lower price. Decorative stone is made from different components. They are chosen taking into account the conditions: will it be used indoors or outdoors.

For example, decorative stone made from gypsum is suitable for interior work. As for the exterior finishing, cement mortar with additives is used: fine-grained gravel, sand, natural stone chips. To give a stone a specific color, a coloring pigment is used. In order for the facing material to be of high quality, molds are needed for the production of decorative stone. You can buy them or make them yourself.

Creating a Form

What and how is a mold for decorative stone made? To create a high-quality template that imitates natural products, you can purchase several facing tiles in the store. The main task is to make a matrix from silicone. This is the best option, time-tested. Plastic isn't that good. Molds for decorative stone can be single or complex. The second option is preferable, since you can make many elements at once.

You need to buy silicone sealant in the store. How to make silicone molds for decorative stone? You need to take a box the size of the future matrix, several decorative stones and lubricant. The box and stones are treated with lubricant. The elements are installed at the bottom of the box. All that remains is to pour the silicone inside and compact it. Everything is leveled with a spatula. The mold will take about 2 weeks to dry. The DIY silicone mold for decorative stone is ready. The stones can be removed and further work can begin.

Advice! It is much easier to buy a ready-made mold for making decorative material.

Creation based on gypsum

Gypsum is a wonderful material from which you can shape anything. If you need to finish the walls inside, then this is the best option. To work you will need:

• purchased or self-made mold;
• kneading mixer;
• plastic container;
• dryer for decorative stone or tray;
• spatulas;
• tassels;
• white plaster;
• washed river sand;
• PVA glue and citric acid;
• wax and turpentine;
• water;
• coloring pigment.

How to make decorative stone from gypsum? You need a level table and free space. If you make many elements at a time from dozens of molds, then you need racks to dry the products over several days.

So, the work is performed as follows:

1. Water is filled into the container and gypsum is added to it (not vice versa). This way the mixture will be homogeneous, without lumps or inclusions.
2. Gypsum sets in 5–7 minutes, so to increase this period, citric acid is added to the composition. The ratio per 1 kg of gypsum is 0.6–0.8 g of citric acid. This will allow the plaster not to set for 1.5 hours. Before adding, the acid is diluted with warm water.
3. When you need to fill a single mold, you should not prepare a lot of raw materials.
4. Before making a decorative stone from gypsum, you need to add sand to it for strength. Fraction from 0.01 to 1 mm.
5. After kneading, the raw material should be thick, like flowing sour cream. Proportions may vary, but usually 1 kg of gypsum will require 100 g of sand.
6. How to use a plasticizer for making decorative stone? It is enough to take PVA glue. In addition, it prolongs the setting time of the plaster.
7. In order not to paint each brick separately, you can add a dye or pigment to the composition.

Before mixing all the components, you should prepare the matrix. If it is plastic or silicone, then it is lubricated with a mixture of wax and turpentine. Another option is a special release agent. Polyurethane molds do not require preparation, but nothing bad will happen if you lubricate it too.

Making decorative stone at home is almost complete. All that remains is to fill the molds with the prepared mixture, compact them and leave them to dry on a flat surface.

Products from egg trays

There is an option to create a decorative stone from egg trays with your own hands. This is the easiest and cheapest way. What is needed for this? Oilcloth, egg trays, ruler and marker, mixing container, water, plaster. Sequence of work:

1. Lay out the film on a flat surface. It will serve as a form.
2. Make markings on it with a marker and a ruler, creating bricks.
3. The egg trays are crushed and sent to a container. They need to be filled with warm water for several hours.
4. Add a few tablespoons of gypsum to the mixture and mix thoroughly. If the composition is liquid, more gypsum is added.
5. We have obtained the raw material for the formation of decorative stone. It is laid out on a marked film, pre-glued with tape to the surface.
6. To form the correct bricks, a spatula is used.
7. Remaining water from the film is removed with a rag or napkin.

DIY decorative items are ready. Just wait for them to dry.

Plasterboard products

Imitating decorative stone with your own hands is also possible using drywall. It will look like a brick wall. To make it you need:

• moisture-resistant drywall or any other;
• ruler;
• pencil.

Bricks will be made from plasterboard, measuring 25x6.5 cm. Each person chooses the size individually. On the sheet you need to mark the future bricks: 25x6.5 cm. The drywall is cut according to the markings, and even elements are formed. Now, to make a decorative stone you need tile adhesive. It must be applied to the surface of the wall or to the drywall itself. You don't need to apply a lot of glue to the wall to prevent it from drying out. It is enough to process a small part of the wall. Furrows are formed with a fine notched trowel. All that remains is to glue the pieces of drywall to the surface, forming the seams and bandaging of each brick.

After the glue has dried, the surface of the drywall is wetted with water. It is necessary to completely remove the paper layer from it to leave only the gypsum surface. Then, using a knife, chisel, sandpaper and other tools, you can give the bricks shape, abrasions and grooves. Here your imagination can run wild. All that remains is to fill the seams with cement mortar or other material. A piping bag made from a milk carton will speed up the process. It is enough to cut off a corner from it and pour the solution inside.

Advice! Before filling the seams, all dirt and dust are removed with a brush.

When the seams are filled, you need to wait until the composition dries and then smooth them. Now everyone knows how to make decorative stone from plasterboard.

Cement products

If cladding is required outdoors, then the above methods will not work. For outdoor use, you will have to make a product from cement, which can withstand negative influences. To work, we will need all the same tools as when working with plaster. Here are the materials:

1. Gray cement grade M200 or higher.
2. Washed river sand.
3. PVC glue as a plasticizer.
4. Dyes.

Before you make a decorative stone with your own hands, you need to prepare the table, level it and remove all excess. I would like to note that if you create cobblestones, large stones and the like from cement, which will be used for an alpine slide or for a flower garden, then you don’t even need a silicone mold.

The mixture is formed from sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1. They are mixed dry without water, and only then liquid is added in small portions. Everything is thoroughly mixed. The mixture should be homogeneous and of the correct consistency. For plasticity, PVA glue is added to the mixture and mixed. There are 50 g of glue per 1 liter. To create color, pigment is added to the composition.

Further work does not differ from the previous version. The finished solution is filled into the mold. It should be shaken from time to time using forward and backward movements. This will compact the raw material. After filling, everything is leveled using a spatula. The excess is removed.

Advice! If large stones are made, then it is better to reinforce them. To do this, the mold is filled halfway, and rods or mesh are installed on top. The remaining space is filled to the brim.

When the cement has set a little, you can form a lattice on the surface with a nail. Thanks to it, during the installation process the cladding will adhere more firmly to the surface. Everything will dry within a day. All that remains is to remove the made stones (carefully) and leave them on the rack to dry. This will take 15 days.

The final stage is cleaning the stones from small fragments and dust. If necessary, they are painted. The material is ready for finishing.

Conclusion

To decorate your home, you don't have to buy expensive materials. It is enough to make a decorative stone with your own hands. As we have seen, there are many different manufacturing methods. You need to choose the option you like and start working according to the instructions.

For several thousand years, natural stones have been used to decorate buildings and structures. Today this is a fairly expensive material, but it has an alternative - making artificial stone with your own hands at home. If all actions are performed correctly, it will look attractive, and its cost will be significantly lower.

Using stone in interior decoration can achieve unexpected results. It is perfect for decorating the entire room or its individual elements, such as a fireplace and columns. Making artificial stone with your own hands is not difficult, but you need to correctly follow the entire sequence of procedures.

In terms of mechanical resistance or other qualities, artificial stone is in no way inferior to natural stone. In addition, it has several important advantages:

There is a similar article on this topic - Bath stones: which ones are better to choose?

• At home, artificial products can be made in thin tiles. This will reduce the weight of objects, but at the same time maintain strength;
• When working independently, it becomes possible to make a stone of the required shape for a specific place;
• Its production can occur at the point of use, so transportation waste is eliminated;
• It is possible to obtain a smooth stone. This eliminates polishing costs;
• Artificial stone at home can be created in irregular shapes. This allows you to imitate the household stone variety.

Molds for making artificial stone can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is recommended to make them yourself. You need to start by choosing one of the samples. A stone is selected that matches not only its size, but also its shape.

Silicone is used for the main material. To make the mold you will need to take a box of suitable dimensions. It should be larger in shape than the stone taken as a sample. The box will act as formwork.

Afterwards, you need to apply a thick layer of grease to both the box and the selected sample. Then carefully place the stone at the bottom of the formwork. To increase productivity, it is recommended to create several boxes at once along with forms.

The next step is to pour silicone into the formwork. For subsequent compaction, you need to use a simple paint brush, previously soaked in a soap solution. After the final filling of the form, it is recommended to carefully level the entire surface using a spatula. It is also best to soak it in a soap solution.

The poured mold will dry for 15 days, and only after this period can the box be disassembled and the sample stone removed.

The result is ready-made silicone molds necessary for making artificial stone yourself. If small cracks or defects are found on the surface, it is recommended to additionally fill them with silicone.

Tip: Instead of soap, you can use a few drops of Fairy detergent to create a solution.

Making a mold, video:

Creation of artificial stone from gypsum

Materials

The technology for making artificial stone from gypsum is the most popular. At the preliminary stage, to create it, you need to prepare the following materials with tools:

• plaster in white;
• anhydride;
• warm water;
• river sand;
• a plastic container necessary for mixing all the elements together;
• pallet;
• matrix;
• electric drill;
• corrugated glass;
• water-based dyes.

To produce artificial stone from gypsum you do not need a large area. A few squares will be considered quite sufficient. To begin with, you should carefully consider the arrangement of your workplace; all racks and necessary shelves should be at hand. The next step of the work is preparing the gypsum solution.

Manufacturing technology

After preparing the workplace and creating silicone molds, you can begin creating it. To do this, below are instructions:

DIY polystyrene concrete. - there is more useful information here.

• To save money, you need to prepare an amount of solution that is equal to the number of forms. The gypsum dough cannot be left for use next time, as it quickly hardens and becomes unusable.
• You need to determine the proportions of water with gypsum yourself.
• After adding water, you need to pour plaster into a container specially prepared for this. You need to add it in small portions. This will allow you to obtain gypsum dough with normal thickness. The consistency of the solution should be thick. The liquid mixture takes longer to dry and has low strength.
• You can get a harder material by adding 10% sand to the mixture.
• The next step is to lubricate the working forms and their surfaces. In this case, wax and turpentine are used. This procedure is necessary; without it, it is difficult to remove the frozen stone from the mold.
• The preparation of this mixture is carried out in a water bath. This allows the wax to dissolve. Afterwards the substance is applied in a thin layer to the surface of the mold.
• When drying, shells may form on the stone. To protect against them, it is recommended to apply liquid plaster to the workplace. It is best to place stones on a pallet.
• To obtain a stone of a certain color, you need to mix paint with gypsum. This is recommended to be done at the stage of mixing the gypsum dough. To achieve this goal, it is best to use separate containers.
• Afterwards, you need to fill the main part of the stone into a special form. Using a spatula, carefully smooth out the mixture.
• The forms are covered with long corrugated glass, then vibration is carried out. This is a necessary stage of work for uniform installation. This process will take about two minutes.
• Hardening of the plaster takes about twenty minutes. The glass is easily separated from the mold, so there will be no difficulties with this activity. We take out the resulting product and let it dry completely in the open air. Heat treatment is not recommended, as it greatly spoils the performance of decorative stone made from gypsum.
• Upon completion of the process, the stone must be painted. It is necessary to prepare a brush along with special paint. To paint, you need to remove dust and similar dirt from the surface of the stone, then evenly distribute the coloring composition. After final drying, it is recommended to apply several more layers, this will allow you to obtain the desired shade.

Artificial stone made of cement

Required materials and tools

The production of artificial stone at home can be made not only from gypsum, but also from cement. This process will require the following tools and materials:

• Cement. It can be replaced with Portland cement;
• Warm purified water;
• Putty knife;
• Capacity in which the cement mortar will be prepared;
• Sand with small fractions, pre-sifted;
• Special composition, necessary for separation;
• Brushes and paints in a variety of shades and shapes;
• Molds for production and mesh, making the stone more durable.

All tools along with materials must be prepared in advance. This will save time, as well as quickly and efficiently complete the process associated with the production of stone for the facade.

You will be interested in this article - Pros and cons of aerated concrete blocks.

Artificial stone made from cement, video:

Manufacturing process

After completing the preparation of the form, the following several stages of work are carried out.

• The first step is to mix sand and cement.. This is necessary for the first layer. It must be applied to a silicone mold. The ratio of cement to sand will look like this: 1:3.
• Next you need to add a certain amount of water. The mass should be similar to the consistency of thick sour cream.
• If you intend to paint a ready-made artificial stone, you will not need to add any components. If it is already necessary to give a shade to the future product, then it is recommended to add dyes at this stage in an amount of 2.5% of the total volume of the solution. The amount of dye should vary depending on the desired color and its brightness.
• As a result, the resulting mixture should be laid out in the finished form, but only up to half.
• Next, the mesh is cut out from the outer mold. It is necessary to harden the stone. The mesh needs to be placed on the mixture, then topped with silicone.
• At the end of the pouring process, you need to draw a sharp element on the top layer to form a groove.. This will allow you to get excellent grip on the surface.

Apparently, the technology is simple and does not require the use of additional equipment. It is recommended to remove the stone from the mold only after 12 hours, and then leave it to dry again for two weeks. During this period, the material will finally gain the necessary strength. After completion of work, the mold must be thoroughly rinsed.

If no coloring components were added to the composition during the manufacturing process, then coloring can be completed during the manufacture of the stone. To do this, you need to clean its surface from dust and dirt. Apply paint evenly using a brush. To create shades, it is recommended to use paint with a darker base.

Artificial stone can be used for many purposes. This is an interior decoration, giving it a special zest and expressiveness. Creating it at home will not bring any difficulties, but in the end you will be able to get an excellent facing material.

Supplement the article with your comments, photos and video :

Artificial stone imitates natural stone, its color, texture, shape, and is made from gypsum or a cement-sand mixture with the addition of dye. You can make artificial stone at home; the technology is quite simple.

Artificial stone made from gypsum is used for cladding interiors, since gypsum is not a moisture-resistant material, products made from it are used for interior wall cladding. If you need to make stone for facade work, then sand-cement mortar is used instead of gypsum. In any case, the manufacturing technology is identical, the only difference is the composition of the solution.

Artificial stone is usually made in the form of rectangular tiles, which makes it easier to lay on walls and other surfaces.

Production of artificial stone from gypsum.

To make stone, the casting method is used; for this you will need matrix forms, which can be rubber, polyurethane or silicone.

Forms, of course, are on sale, but it will be cheaper to make them yourself. To do this, you need to purchase liquid silicone and several samples of artificial stone, all of which are sold in construction supermarkets.

We make molds for making artificial stone with our own hands.

Molds can be made from polyurethane or silicone; let’s take a closer look at the mold making process.

First, we need to make a formwork box for pouring the mold. The box can be made from used chipboard and wooden planks. The box must have a side height of more than 2 cm higher than the thickness of the stones. The boards can be screwed to the chipboard with self-tapping screws; the joints between the panel and the boards must be sealed with silicone sealant. If even one gap remains, the liquid silicone will then simply flow out of the box.

Samples of stones are placed at the bottom of the box with the textured surface facing up; there should be a gap of at least 1 cm between the stones. The stones must not only be laid, but fixed and glued to the bottom of the box. This can be done using silicone sealant or glue.

Then we open the surface of the stones and the entire surface of the box with a release agent, preferably using a wax-based lubricant. Leave to dry for 1 hour.

We mix two-component polyurethane or silicone with a hardener and pour it into the formwork with stones; the stones should be completely covered with a layer about 2 cm thick above the stones. In the photo, the mold is filled with polyurethane.

After the mass hardens, the formwork is dismantled and the stones are removed.

As a result, we received a reusable matrix for casting artificial stone.

In this way, it is possible to produce both a polyurethane matrix and a silicone one.

Technology for manufacturing artificial stone from gypsum.

Let's start making stones from gypsum. We cover the mold matrix with a release agent, it is possible without lubricant, but with lubricant the form will last much longer.

Then we take the dye and use a brush to randomly tint the shapes of the matrix to give the future stones a natural look.

Place the mold on a flat horizontal surface.

Mix the solution to the consistency of liquid sour cream. It is important to mix the solution correctly; if you mix it too liquid, the stones will crumble when removed from the matrix; if it is too thick, it will not be able to fill all the cavities and the stones will end up with air pores.

Composition of the mixture for artificial stone.

To make stone from gypsum, you can use the following composition:

• Plaster - 2 parts.
• Water – 1 part.

Another solution option:

• Gypsum – 5 parts.
• Water - 2 parts.
• Coarse sand (sifted) – 1.5 parts.

Composition of cement mixture for facade stone:

Coarse sand (sifted) – 6 parts.

• Cement M 400 – 3 parts.
• Water – 1 part.

Plasticizer (dosage according to instructions).

The dye is first mixed in water, and then added to the solution with water during mixing. You can additionally apply dye to the mold or then tint the finished stone.

Instead of plaster, you can use alabaster, you can try casting from plaster and from alabaster, then compare the result. Stones made from alabaster will be smoother, and from gypsum they will be rougher.

We gradually fill the mold with the solution, we need to try to ensure that the solution fills all the cavities in the mold.

The forms with the solution are left to harden; the hardening time of the gypsum solution is 20 - 30 minutes.

Stripping. Turn the form over and place it on a flat surface. We carefully lift the form by the edge and remove it, the stones are removed and remain on the table.

Manufactured artificial stone from gypsum can be used for decorative cladding of interior walls, and concrete for exterior use. If you make a stone yourself, it will cost several times less than buying a ready-made one.

Recently, many people increasingly want to decorate the walls with decorative stone in their apartment, but for some this is too expensive (from 800 to 1200 rubles per square meter), especially if a large volume is needed. But you can make the stone yourself at home and save a lot of money. Today I will tell you in detail about how to make a decorative stone with your own hands from plaster at home or in the garage with step-by-step photos.

From this article you will learn:

What is needed to cast stone?

What gypsum to use How to prepare for pouring How to calculate the amount of gypsum per form How to strip formwork How to dry stone A few tips from the author

High quality stone molds

Form "Leon"

Shape Leon, 0.25 m2

Palace stone

Palace stone

Americano form

Americano brick shape 0.1 m2

Leo Heraldic

Lion shape (panel)

German brick

German brick shape

Templar Cross

Templar Cross Shape

Sword Flamberge

Sword Flamberge Form

Wood brick

Shape Wood Brick

VIEW ENTIRE CATALOG

Tools and materials

To produce decorative stone you will need:

1. Forms of the required type. High-quality and inexpensive forms can be purchased on our website formodeloff.ru;
2. Gypsum;
3. Drill or screwdriver with mixer attachment;
4. Scales;
5. Bucket;
6. Wide (40 cm) and narrow spatula (10 cm);
7. Scoop or ladle;
8. Water;
9. Spray;
10. Laundry soap;
11. Beaker.

You can make molds for decorative stone yourself or order them. At the beginning of my activity, I made the molds myself, using silicone compound, then I bought polyurethane molds, because... they are stronger.

It is better to use a rubber bucket for mixing - it will be easier to clean. If this is not available, then an ordinary plastic one with a flat bottom will do, it is advisable that it be as narrow as possible, otherwise the plaster will not mix well when mixed. Instead of a bucket, you can use any other container; some make the mixture in cut-off plastic bottles with a volume of 5-6 liters, others cut off a canister.

What kind of plaster is needed?

You can use any brand of building gypsum. There are expensive brands of gypsum, and there are cheap ones - what's the difference?

Gypsum Magma G6 B3

On a bag of plaster it is usually written, for example, “gypsum g-16” or “gypsum g-6”. The number means the hardness of the gypsum after drying, g-16 is a very strong gypsum, products made from it are more difficult to break than, for example, from g-6. If you are planning to make a stone for yourself (not for sale), then use the cheapest gypsum, yes, products made from it will not be as strong, but the gypsum is cheap and once you glue the stone to the wall, you will not break it.

If mass production for sale is planned, then it is better to use gypsum of a higher strength to make the stone stronger. The fact is that a stone can break during transportation, and imagine a situation where you made a delivery, the buyer checks the goods, and there are a lot of broken tiles.

For sale, some stone makers use cheap gypsum, adding various plasticizers and additives, such as SVV-500, to increase its strength. You can read about this here.

Join our group vk.com/kamnedelofff - There you can always ask a question and get an answer. Or just exchange experiences.

I also want to say about the color of the plaster. At first I used Samara gypsum g-16, the tiles turned out gray after drying. Now I use Magma G6 B3 (molding), after drying the color of the tiles is white. I like working with Magma, it is finely ground gypsum, hardens a little slower and costs 3 times less than Samara g-16.

Pouring stone

Preparation of the workplace

Before pouring the stone, the molds need to be wetted so that the stone is easier to remove. It is best to moisten with water diluted with laundry soap. Take the soap, grind it a little and pour it into warm water. Wait a little, shake and pour the solution into a spray bottle.

The table on which you will be pouring must be level, otherwise the tiles may turn out uneven. Place the mold on the table, spray it with a spray bottle so that it is well wetted, but not too much water.

Wetting the mold with soapy water

How to calculate the amount of plaster per mold?

If you have purchased molds, you can ask the seller how much plaster and water you need. But it also happens that, following the advice of the seller, you end up with a lot of mixture or the solution turns out to be too liquid or thick. A lot depends on what kind of water you have and the gypsum itself.

Ask a stone maker!

If you have any questions about plaster, molds or decorative stone, you can ask me a question in the comments.Ask a question

For example, I work, as I said above, with Magma G6, diluting it with water 1 to 1, i.e. I add 1 liter of water to 1 kilogram of gypsum, the mixture is perfect. A very good friend of mine also works with this gypsum, but he lives not in Russia, but in Kazakhstan and adds 0.8 liters of water to this amount of gypsum. Everyone's water is different and that's a fact.

Now I’ll tell you how I empirically determine the amount of ingredients for new forms. I take dry plaster, fill the mold with it, cutting off the rest with a spatula on top. Then I pour it into a bucket and weigh it. I remove about 30% from this amount. I dilute it with water 1 to 1 and fill it. If there is a lot of solution, then approximately “by eye” I remove the plaster and water in equal proportions and fill it again. If there is not enough mixture to completely fill the mold, then I add more, etc. In this way you can find out the required amount, the main thing is not to forget everything and write it down in a notebook.

By the way, I noticed this pattern: if for 1 mold, for example, you need 1 kg of gypsum and 1 liter of water, then it is not a fact that for 2 molds you will need 2 kg of gypsum and 2 liters of water. As practice shows, 2 forms require a little less of each ingredient.

Mixing and pouring process

Once you have determined the amount of plaster and water needed, take a flat bottom bucket and fill it with water.

Weighing gypsum

Then take a screwdriver with an attachment, lower it into the water and turn it on so that the speed is not too high. Then start pouring plaster from the second container. You should not immediately pour out the entire mass of plaster, as it will be impossible to stir it without lumps. Pour in the plaster slowly while stirring. The solution should be fluid and without lumps.

You shouldn’t stir the solution for too long, the plaster sets very quickly and you simply won’t have time to level it on the mold.

After this, take a bucket and pour the mixture into molds, first filling the bottom of all the tiles while the solution is thin. Add the rest on top and level it with a wide spatula. Do not press too hard on the trowel as the back of the tiles will be oval when dry.

After 1-2 minutes, go through the spatula again, because... the plaster begins to swell and the back side may turn out uneven.

Pouring decorative stone

Stripping

After 15-20 minutes you can do the unmolding. To do this, pull the form onto the edge of the table so that part of it hangs in the air. Pull it down until it separates from the stone and remove the tiles. Some specialists turn the mold over on the table and, as it were, remove not the stone from the mold, but the mold from the stone.

Finished stone after casting

How to dry stone?

If it’s summer outside and you have your own home, then the tiles can be laid out on the street or in a greenhouse (ideal), as in the photo.

This is the best way to lay the stone when drying

This way the stone will be well ventilated and dry quickly.

If you do not have such conditions, then you need to make a dryer. But again, if you are making a stone for yourself, then you can dry it by any available means, because... The process of creating a dryer is financially expensive. If you are planning production, then you cannot do without a good dryer.

You can make a dryer from metal profiles and cellophane, as we did here. On the sides there were 2 heaters of 2 kilowatts each. The disadvantage of such a dryer is that the stone was poorly ventilated and did not dry well. We soon remade it, but that's another story.

Our old dryer

Let's sum it up

So, you now know how to make decorative stone at home. For 1 square meter, you will need from 4 to 10 kg of gypsum. For example, some types of brick require 45 rubles worth of gypsum per square. Agree, this is very profitable than buying in a store. From a bag of Magma I get 7 square meters of thin brick.

Casting in several molds

• Make or buy larger molds so you can produce more stone in less time. The coolest forms with an area of ​​0.25 square meters. By filling 4 forms you will receive 1 sq. meter of finished product. Don't buy molds that are too thick; it's not profitable. For bricks, the maximum thickness should be in the range of 0.5 - 1 cm, for slates from 1 to 2.5 cm, depending on the type.
• Buy a scale. With scales you will have almost no waste, because... all proportions will be the same. I initially used a 700 gram scoop as a measuring stick. But it turned out that there were a lot of residues or, on the contrary, there was not enough solution.
• Use respirators when preparing the solution. You get a very unpleasant sensation when you inhale dust from plaster while mixing. And the lungs become clogged.
• Do not use high speed drills. Knead at low speed to avoid bubbles appearing on the surface of the tiles.
• Using a vibrating table is not necessary for making gypsum tiles, so don't worry about it.

Many of us consider artificial stone to be a new material, however, it has been known to people since time immemorial. Ordinary clay brick, cement, gypsum and lime mortar are varieties of artificial stone.

The popularity of this material began to grow after new polymer compositions and forms appeared that made it possible to use it for interior decoration and landscape design.

In particular, artificial stone can be used to make tiles for cladding walls and floors, steps and other elements of stairs.

It is used for the manufacture of countertops, decorative stucco and sculptural compositions, borders and paving slabs.

In terms of strength and durability, some types of artificial stone are not inferior to natural stone, surpassing it in ease of processing and ease of finishing. This material can be made into very thin tiles, which reduces its weight and reduces cost. For natural stone, such a thickness is unattainable due to its high fragility.

Not inferior to natural material in terms of color and variety of surface textures, artificial stone is more profitable to use for several reasons:

• it can be immediately made perfectly smooth, which eliminates expensive sawing, grinding and polishing operations;
• there is no need to transport it, since this material can be made with your own hands at the place of use;
• the amount of waste is minimal, since there are no losses for transportation and processing;
• In addition to a rectangular shape, it can be made figured or shaped, which allows you to finish surfaces exactly in place without additional adjustment.

Types of artificial stone

When considering the question of what artificial stone is made from, it is not difficult to choose a technology acceptable for use at home.

Depending on the raw materials and methods of processing, artificial stone is divided into the following types:

- Ceramic (tiles)– the manufacturing process requires the creation of high temperatures to roast raw materials and transform them into a monolithic conglomerate.

- Plaster (cast). It can be done at home. The costs of raw materials and production are minimal, however, such stone is suitable only for interior decoration, since it is not resistant to frost.

- Concrete molded. The cost of production is more expensive than gypsum, since the resource of molds for casting concrete is less. Suitable for self-production. Frost-resistant.

- Free-formed reinforced concrete. This artificial stone is made piece by piece, usually at the site of use (artificial cobblestones, boulders, slabs).

- Hot-curing polyester. In terms of its mechanical and decorative characteristics, it is superior to some types of natural stone, but the synthetic compound hardens only in a vacuum at elevated temperatures. It is not suitable for home production.

- Cold-hardening cast acrylic stone. Suitable for home production. In the temperature range from +175 to 210 it is thermoplastic, therefore it allows additional molding after casting.

How to make artificial stone with your own hands?

This requires two basic components: mold and casting mixture. The home technology for producing artificial stone can be implemented both in a factory-made polyurethane mold and in a home-made silicone one. It all depends on the total footage of the finishing and the budget allocated for this work.

The polyurethane matrix is ​​quite expensive, but it allows you to make several hundred high-quality impressions. Silicone mold is more suitable for small-piece stone production and home sculptural crafts. Its resource usually does not exceed 20-30 castings.

For making your own silicone molds a set of natural stone or tiles is laid out on a horizontal, stable and flat surface, having previously covered it with polyethylene. After this, a frame made of wooden slats or plastic is placed on it. The height of its sides should be 1-2 centimeters higher than the height of the copied material.

The surface of the tile and the inside of the sides are coated with solid oil or cyatim. You can take the cheapest silicone - acidic. It is squeezed out of the tube into the mold in a spiral, starting from the center to the sides until it is filled.

To prevent the formation of bubbles, the silicone is smoothed with a wide fluted brush. It needs to be dipped in a solution of dishwashing detergent. Soap solution is not suitable here because it is alkaline and can ruin the acidic silicone. After filling, the surface of the future form is smoothed with a spatula, also moistened with detergent.

Dry molds for making artificial stone at room temperature in a ventilated area. The drying rate of the silicone composition is approximately 2 mm per day.

Molding mixtures

Gypsum artificial stone

The mixture for gypsum stone is prepared from gypsum grades G5 - G7. It is made in small portions, counting on simultaneous filling of no more than two forms, since the setting time of this binder does not exceed 10 minutes.

Composition of the mixture: gypsum, citric acid to slow down hardening (0.3% by weight of gypsum), water - 60-70% of the volume of gypsum. The pigment is taken at the rate of 2 to 6% of the weight of the gypsum. The dosage of the coloring substance is selected on test samples of castings.

concrete stone

You can make artificial stone inexpensively and with high quality with your own hands from concrete. Unlike construction, here the initial composition of the components is slightly different: take 3 parts of cement for 1 part sand. The proportions of the pigment (you need to use an alkaline resistant one!) are the same as for gypsum stone.

The addition of polymer additives reduces the brittleness of this material and increases its abrasion resistance.

Cold hardening acrylic stone

This material is made on the basis of acrylic resin and hardener. The recommended volume of mineral filler to acrylic is 3:1. The amount of pigment is taken depending on the total weight of the filler (on average from 2 to 6%).

As an inexpensive filler, you can take gravel, stone chips or granite screenings. Before preparing the mixture, the filler is washed with dish gel, then calcined over a fire and rinsed with clean water.

The preparation process consists of three stages: first, the pigment is mixed with the filler. Then the acrylic resin is mixed with a hardener and a filler with pigment is added to it.

The time during which the acrylic mixture must be poured into the mold (from the moment the hardener is introduced into the resin) is no more than 20 minutes. The setting time of the mixture lasts from 30 to 40 minutes. The product requires 24 hours to completely harden.

If you are interested in countertops made of artificial stone, then the best materials for their manufacture are concrete or acrylic. The concrete product is heavier and does not allow you to create surfaces as varied in pattern as when using acrylic resin. However, the low cost of raw materials and the simplicity of the casting process partially compensate for this disadvantage.

Release agents

For different types of artificial stone, different compositions are used to separate the form from the product.

For gypsum stone, the optimal solution is one consisting of artificial or natural wax in turpentine in a ratio of 1:7. To do this, add wax shavings in small portions, stirring, to turpentine heated in a water bath to +50 - +60 C.

For concrete stone, conventional lubricants are used (litol, emulsol, cyatim). Before pouring the acrylic composition, the mold is lubricated with a solution of stearin in styrene (proportion 1 to 10) or cyatim.

When using a homemade silicone matrix, it must be protected from deformation that occurs when the hardening gypsum stone and acrylic resin are heated. To do this, before pouring the working mixture, it must be placed in a tray with fine dry sand so that the thickness of its layer is from 2/3 to 3/4 of the height of the mold.

Artificial stone is a material known since time immemorial. In fact, it is both brick and even hardened lime mortar. However, today, when they say “decorative stone,” they mean a very specific material - artificial frozen forms that have excellent aesthetic and performance qualities and are suitable for interior and exterior decoration, as well as landscape design. You can even make such a stone (at least some types) with your own hands - it will turn out cheap and beautiful.

Why do you need artificial decorative stone?

Stone finishing is always visually attractive and has excellent technical characteristics. It is strong, durable, resistant to any aggressive influence. Natural stone, as a building and finishing material, has only one, but very significant, disadvantage - its high price. Even sawn and chopped it costs serious money. And its professional installation is also expensive. But for an amateur it will be very difficult to match pebbles to pebbles so that it turns out truly beautiful and stylish. In addition, natural stone is heavy and overloads the surface being finished, often requiring additional reinforcement.

An artificial stone is a completely different matter. In terms of its aesthetic and performance qualities (beauty, durability, strength, etc.) it even surpasses its natural counterpart. In addition, it is lightweight and easy to install, and the surface finished with it is suitable for partial repair.

Additional advantages of artificial stone include:

• the ability to produce thin tiles without loss of strength;
• having a wide palette of colors and textures;
• the possibility of manufacturing at the site of application, which means eliminating transport costs in principle;
• elimination of costs for sawing, grinding, polishing;
• the ability to produce tiles of a predetermined size, taking into account the characteristics of the surface to be finished.

Important: Stone imitation technology using polymer binders allows you to create a thermoplastic material that can be bent, molded, and joined without seams.

Types of artificial stone

Today there are countless types of artificial stone. Such material may be intended for:

• interior decoration;
• external finishing;
• interior and furniture decor;
• creation and finishing of kitchen sinks, window sills, countertops.

Modern technologies make it possible to obtain an artificial stone that imitates even semi-precious minerals - tiger eye, moonstone, snake and cat stones, labradorite, serpentinite, pink eagle, etc. It turns out very beautiful. And most importantly, all this can be done with your own hands.

According to the source materials and methods of creation, artificial stone can be divided into:

Acrylic stone

The main advantages of acrylic stone are resistance to chemical attack and the absence of pores, which during operation guarantees complete hygiene and compliance with sanitation rules. It turns out that such a stone can be washed/cleaned as much as you like and using any household chemicals.

The high decorative qualities of acrylic stone are ensured by the optimal combination of its viscosity and strength. For use directly on site, acrylic stone can be made in sheets 3-4 mm thick at least to the full height of the wall, and for transportation - in slabs (6, 9 and 12 mm thick).

In addition, created on an acrylic binder, decorative artificial stone has an optimal ratio of thermal conductivity (low) and heat capacity (quite high). It is this feature that gives a feeling of “living” warmth when in contact with the material, which is especially valuable in interior decoration.

Quartz artificial stone

Among hot-cured liquid artificial stone, quartz stone stands out. It is created from ground vein quartz as a filler and a polyester resin binder. In terms of durability and mechanical characteristics, this material is superior to the best stones of natural origin.

Equipment and materials

To make cast artificial stone at home, you will need quite specific materials, tools and equipment:

• vibration table (primarily);
• ready-made molds for casting or models for their manufacture;
• a release agent that is used to coat molds before casting stone and models before making molds so that nothing sticks to anything;
• compounds or foundry mixtures;
• pigments;
• heat gun for welding and molding elements made of acrylic stone.

You may also need a sand tray for homemade silicone molds.

Vibration stand

A vibration stand is a design that ensures the hardening of artificial stone with proper homogeneity of the mixture for its production. You can even make such a stand yourself.

Any low-power electric motors are used as vibrators (the total should be approximately 30-50 W per sq. m). There should be at least 2 of these motors at the corners of the platform, and ideally - 4. If you have to use only one motor, it is better to place it in the center of the installation platform, and then the trays with forms should be installed at the edges.

To regulate the strength of vibration, the motors are powered through a rheostat or thyristor regulator.

Eccentrics are mounted on the motor shafts - you can use point eccentrics, or you can use U-shaped pieces of rod or strips tightened with screws. The rotation speed of the motors should be 600-3000 rpm. If it is less, the mixture will separate, and if it is more, the required vibration force will not be obtained.

The platform is made of dense but layered material (thickness 8-20 mm). Plywood, getinaks or fiberglass are suitable. Layering is the most important factor when choosing, since mechanical vibrations along the platform should propagate quite freely along the platform horizontally and quickly attenuate vertically.

Pallets with the working composition are secured to the platform using self-tapping screws.

As for the springs on which the platform vibrates, they must be equally rigid. Loaded, under the weight of the platform, such springs should compress no more than a fifth of their length. They must be linear (cylindrical, made of wire of uniform cross-section) and wide. The installation step is 300-600 mm both along the length of the platform and its width. That is, there should be 9 such springs on each square meter of the platform. In the platform and base of the stand, special holes or annular grooves are made under the ends of the springs so that the platform does not slip during operation.

It is better to make the base of the stand wooden - it will also dampen the overtones, while the metal base will also begin to ring them.

The vibration stand is mounted on a rigid support with adjusting screws, which allow the platform to be leveled strictly horizontally.

Stand adjustment

To adjust the vibration stand, you must:

• load it completely (place a pallet with filled forms and secure it);
• for weight, also put models in the molds;
• Use a bubble level to level the horizontal position of the base and the platform on it;
• set the adjusting screws to this very horizontal position;
• place a saucer with a ball from a bearing (diameter 5-6 mm) directly on the molds;
• turn down the vibrator regulator;
• turn on vibrators;
• smoothly add power, making the ball bounce on the saucer;
• then gradually reduce the power so that the ball rolls on the saucer again, ringing.

After the above manipulations, the vibration stand can be considered adjusted.

Models

For home production of artificial stone, if there are no ready-made forms, you will definitely need models to create them - these can be either ready-made factory-produced artificial stones, or natural stones, suitable in size and texture.

Anyone can independently make a unique model of stone to implement an original interior design solution. And the most ordinary gully clay will help to create it.

To make a sample stone (model) from clay, you do not need to obtain any permits, do analyzes or conduct research. All you need to do is collect clay, mold the desired “stone” and dry it. To prevent the model from cracking during the drying process, the sample should be sculpted on a blank made of wood waste or foam plastic. You can also use pieces of plastic bottles coated with plasticine. In general, it is necessary to provide a “layout for creating a layout” in such a way that the layer of clay itself is no thicker than 6-12 mm.

You can also make a model for making artificial stone facing tiles. To do this, you will first need to “construct” a lattice from plasticine strips:

• 6-12 mm for concrete and gypsum stone;
• from 3 mm for acrylic stone;
• 20-40 mm for thick clay with stucco;
• and absolutely no modeling under liquid clay.

For any of the above cases, a flat working surface (shield) is covered with polyethylene film, a plasticine grid is laid and its cells are filled with clay. For drying, the products are sent on the same board to a place protected from direct sunlight (so that the finished product does not crack). The best option is under a canopy, in the shade, in a light draft. To control the drying process, place a small lump of clay next to the grates - as soon as it stops crumpling under your fingers, drying is complete.

The drying process can be accelerated if you hang an infrared lamp of 100-200 W above the models (but not lower than 2 m from the products) or turn on an electric fireplace in the room (only convection, not oil) at half its operating power.

If the grate is low, clay is placed/poured into it to the top and left to dry “as is”. Then the finished tile acquires a unique relief. And if the lattice is high, the clay is laid in a layer under the final material, and the required relief is molded by hand.

Forms

The following types of forms are used to produce artificial stone:

1. Disposable clay ones, which are smelted on a wax model and used for artistic casting and sculpting.
2. Polyurethane reusable industrial production.
3. Homemade silicone ones for home creativity and piece production, withstanding up to several dozen castings.

You can also make silicone molds for making artificial stone yourself. To do this, you will need a model or a model set (the same one made of clay), which will need to be laid out on a working board covered with plastic film. Next, the display is surrounded by a side (wooden or plastic), which is 10-20 cm higher than the model tops. Everything, including the sides and the models themselves, will need to be pre-lubricated with grease (solidol, shachtol or cyatim). Then the shield is set strictly horizontally in level so that the upper silicone surface also turns out to be perfectly horizontal - after all, it will become the bottom of the future form.

The next step is pouring acidic silicone (the cheapest, which smells strongly of vinegar). The substance on the model is squeezed out of the tube - in a spiral, from the center to the edges. Until the display is completely filled, up to the sides. And to prevent bubbles from forming inside, the silicone should be dispersed into shape with a flute brush dipped in a foaming solution of any dishwashing detergent.

Important: You cannot use ordinary soap solution for overclocking, as it gives an alkaline reaction that can ruin the silicone.

Forms filled in according to all the rules are sent for drying under the same conditions as clay models. Only in this case there is no need to use infrared illumination - the shape will turn out with bubbles. Only ventilation can speed up drying. But the classic drying time for silicone is 2 mm per day, and it is better not to speed it up. A silicone ring filled in at the same time and sent for drying along with the molds will help control the process.

Foundry mixtures

Gypsum stone

To create gypsum stone, the mixture is prepared in small portions, since its “vitality” does not exceed 10 minutes. Therefore, the composition is poured into the mold 3-4 minutes after kneading. The final material includes:

• gypsum;
• citric acid, which slows down hardening (0.3% by weight of gypsum);
• water (for the starting layer - 0.8-0.9 of the gypsum volume, for the main mass - 0.6);
• pigment selected on experimental samples (depending on color, 2-6% of the weight of gypsum).

concrete stone

This material is based on a cement-sand mortar, in which the ratio of components is the opposite of the mortar, that is, for one part of sand there are 3 parts of cement. In this case, the pigment is taken in proportions as for gypsum. The use of polymer additives is allowed.

Cast acrylic stone

Acrylic stone is made on the basis of acrylic resin using special hardeners. The permissible share of filler (already with pigment) is 3 to 1 based on the finished material.

The principle is as follows: The calculation of the compound is carried out from the binder, that is, from the resin with a hardener. If the proportion of filler decreases, the thermoplasticity of the finished product improves, but its mechanical strength decreases.

The filler used is:

• stone chips;
• gravel;
• or dropout.

The selected filler is washed using any detergent, then calcined and washed again, but with clean running water.

The composition is mixed as follows:

1. First, the resin is combined with a hardener.
2. Then a filler with pigment is introduced.
3. And then everything is mixed well.

The finished mixture remains viable for 15-20 minutes. And its setting time is 30-40 minutes. Readiness to use the frozen material is a day.

Liquid stone

It should be noted right away that ready-made materials for making liquid stone are quite expensive. Therefore, most often only 2 compositions are used, which are more or less affordable:

• facial;
• and primer.

They differ in content: in particular, they have different proportions of filler.

The primer mixture includes:

• gelcoat, 20%;
• microcalcite, 73%;
• accelerator, 6%;
• and hardener, 1%.

As for the face composition, 40% of the gelcoat is used to create it, and the same amount of hardener with accelerator as for primer. And accordingly, everything else is microcalcite.

The viability of the composition, its setting and readiness are the same as for acrylic stone.

Pigments

One of the advantages of artificial stone is the variety of not only its textures, but also its shades. To create various colors during the production process of the material, the following mineral and synthetic pigments are used:

• powder, which are injected directly into dry fillers or into plaster;
• liquid, already poured into the batch;
• paste-like, introduced into the batch just before the end using a syringe.

Separators

For different types of artificial stone, different release agents are used. For example:

• a solution of wax in turpentine (1:7) is ideal for creating gypsum stone;
• greases are used for concrete stone;
• a solution of stearin in styrene (1: 10) is used for acrylic and liquid stones.

sand cushion

A “sand cushion” is a tray with clean, dry sand (filled halfway or 3/4 full), into which a three-dimensional silicone mold is deepened before casting. This is done so that during vibration on the stand the hardening acrylic or gypsum compound does not expand the mold.

Thermal gun

This is a device that resembles a miniature hair dryer. The heat gun produces a thin but strong stream of hot air, with the help of which finished parts made of acrylic stone are welded, and plastic frames are also assembled during the production of silicone molds.

Casting

Liquid stone casting technology involves two stages of processing:

• starting;
• and basic.

If we are talking about filling small flat forms without relief, facial mixtures are used immediately.

“Starting mixture” is a liquid composition with filler and pigment that adheres well to the surface of the working form. It is applied with a brush. For a gypsum start, gypsum is diluted with sand and cement. And for an acrylic mixture, the proportion of filler with pigment decreases and the amount of resin with hardener increases.

As for the base composition, they are added to the molds after the starting mixture has hardened. For acrylic, microcalcite is used as a filler (and without pigment), which in itself provides an excellent background for the manifestation of the decorative qualities of the facial filler. And the base gypsum is simply mixed with water until it reaches the consistency of thick sour cream.

When concrete is poured, the basic pouring is carried out in 2 approaches:

• first, the mold is filled halfway and a reinforcing mesh is laid out over the layer;
• then the base is added to the edges of the mold and leveled with a wet spatula - clean, grease-free, made of polished metal.

As soon as the setting process has begun, grooves are drawn along the surface of the casting (also known as the underside of the product in the future) so that the finished artificial stone will better adhere to the surface to be finished when facing.

Molding of liquid stone

Artificial liquid stone is formed by direct or reverse spraying (enveloping). In the direct process, first the base made of fiberboard, chipboard or MDF is covered with primer (a layer of 3-4 mm), then the decorative layer itself is applied. The resulting surface of the product is textured and rough due to protruding filler granules. Subsequently, this circumstance requires painstaking additional processing of the material - sanding and polishing.

The reverse method of creating liquid stone is more technologically advanced. With its help, if you have ready-made matrices at home, you can even organize mass production. This method involves covering the matrix opposite the finished product with a separator, then applying a compound, and then applying a leveling wooden board and pressing it evenly with weights.

Monumental molding

Artificial boulders, blocks or flagstones are created on a blank covered with reinforcing mesh from a concrete mixture. First of all, using a minimal amount of water, prepare a “dry” solution without the participation of pigment. Then this composition is applied to the model in the manner of appliqué. The result is a base, which, after setting, is covered with the main working composition (already of normal consistency and with pigment) and stretched to the desired shape. Products should dry in the fresh air, protected from rain. And at least 40 days.

Nowadays, many people pay enough attention to decorating the facades of private houses, as well as buildings for various purposes. Especially for this, there is a huge range of materials of both natural and artificial origin.

The latter are made specifically for decorative purposes. They characterized by increased strength and resistance to various negative environmental factors.

That's why they are great Suitable for use in almost any conditions. One of these materials is artificial stone, which, in addition to its excellent quality properties, attracts attention with its beautiful appearance.

What is artificial stone?

Definition "fake diamond" is a generalized name for a number of varieties of industrial products, the appearance of which is practically no different from natural stone.

With the help of such material, which is of fairly high quality, you can effortlessly imitate the cut of artificial stone during the laying process. It is considered an excellent option that suitable for replacing sandstones or natural limestone.

In addition, they can perfectly replace coral rock stone or granite, travertine and slate. Modern artificial stone is also suitable for simulating other types of natural stones.

Scope of application

Today, artificial stones are widely used in the construction industry.

Numerous manufacturing companies offer their customers a huge range of this material, making it easy to choose the most suitable option for each individual case.

Large range of colors attractive texture and original structure artificial stones allows them to be used for external cladding of buildings for one purpose or another. They are also often used in the design of landscapes of parks, garden plots and many other areas.

Using this material you can create very beautiful shapes, imitating natural stone. In addition, recently they have often preferred when cladding interior walls houses.

Artificial stone has another purpose:

• partial coating of furniture surfaces;
• formation of window sills;
• production of various sanitary products;
• sculptures;
• a variety of decorative elements.

To paint a stone to look like a brick, you can choose an orange-brown paint and apply it to the front surface of the base.

It is much more difficult to achieve a marbled finish. For this it is necessary to use paints of several shades to achieve the most natural look. Sandpaper can be used to create areas with slight roughness.

Cladding the facade of the house

Artificial stone is suitable for cladding surfaces made of almost any material.

Pre-needed in the right way prepare the work surface- the wall of the building. To do this, use a brush or rag to clean it from traces of dirt and dust.

In cases where the facade is built of wooden beams, then first the surface is thoroughly impregnated with an antiseptic composition. Then you need to take care of additional moisture insulation, as well as install a metal sheathing, which is pre-adjusted to the size of the wall

Leveling the wall surface using putty or cement mixture, as shown in the photo. It is applied to the surface of the facade with a spatula, and then carefully leveled. It is necessary to ensure that the putty has dried well and that no roughness, cracks or irregularities have formed on it.

For fixing artificial stones need to pick up glue either adhesive mortar or cement mortar. It is recommended to give preference to more expensive products from trusted manufacturing companies that are responsible for the quality of their products.

Stones are laid out on the floor to it was possible to lay out a “picture” from this material. So, it is much easier to choose stones that will fit well in size and shape

On a flat surface of artificial stone apply an even layer of glue or adhesive solution.

The stone is applied to the wall with the side that is covered with glue, and then it is you need to press hard to ensure maximum grip.

Installation of stones can be carried out either without seams or with seams. In the first case, stones of even geometric shape are used so that they tightly adjacent to each other and without them there were no gaps.

In the second case, you can select figured stones. However, they should be laid in such a way that the width of the gaps between them does not exceed 2.5 cm.

Smooth stones are needed lay starting from the corner elements, and surfaces near window and door openings are also treated. Then the rest of the space is filled with stones, which should be glued in horizontal rows.

You can also lay them out in a different order, however, first of all, the corners must be tiled

The surface is left alone until completely dry in order to ensure more reliable fastening and longer service life.

Gaps that have formed between artificial stone tightly filled with so-called grout. For a more aesthetic appearance, the seams can be rubbed with sandpaper.

As you can see, finishing with artificial stone is quite simple and does not require special skills and knowledge.

Artificial stone is alternative to natural materials. Some of its types are characterized by improved properties compared to the originals. They can be either purchased or made at home.