I want to build a house in the country. How to build a small country house with your own hands (47 photos): construction methods. Frame construction and container houses. Construction of a garden house from timber
People acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remodel or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. One of our craftsmen, who decided to join country life, was puzzled by just such a process. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that’s exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country “for the first time.”
- Country house 6x6 with built-in terrace 4x3:
- project;
- foundation;
- water supply;
- box;
- internal work.
Country house 6x6 with built-in terrace 4x3
Gonzik1
Last year I purchased a plot of land in a field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was supplied to the site (it took two months to complete the paperwork), a panel was installed on the pole with a meter, a machine and an outlet. This year, having saved up some money, I began construction. I decided to do everything myself, because it’s cheaper and more reliable.
DIY country house project
The craftsman created the dacha construction project with his own hands over the winter; according to his idea, this is the first module, to which he will later attach another one, combining both parts into a solid structure. Using a special program, I made a drawing that allowed me to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials.
Foundation
Since the house is lightweight, using frame technology and on one floor, Gonzik1 gave preference to a columnar foundation made of special concrete blocks (20x20x40 cm). His choice was also influenced by the low groundwater level (GWL) at the dacha and the excellent condition of similar foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pillar - removed the fertile layer, added a sand cushion, and laid the blocks. The plane was maintained using a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it’s cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days.
Water supply
There is no place for a central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for each summer resident. Our craftsman initially planned to drill a well. Test drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - dense black clay came out instead of water. The drillers reported that only an artesian well about ninety meters long would help, and they announced an exorbitant price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future has shown - the decision is the right one. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, restored in an hour and a half.
Box
The strapping is two-layer - at the bottom there is a board 100x50 mm, at the top - 100x40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing felt and secured to the posts with anchors.
All frame posts were also assembled from 100x40 mm boards with nails; the walls were raised directly on site using temporary jibs. They collected only the ridge on the ground, then lifted it onto the roof. This stage took another four days.
The next thing was to install the rafters, wind boards, install the wind protection, and put the counter batten and sheathing on top. Our craftsman chose metal tiles as the roofing covering.
Gonzik1
I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are often laid from left to right. It turned out, no, the tiles are laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be placed under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, it moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the sheathing with its feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day.
After the tiles, we got to the grounding, due to which the floor joists were not completely laid. Gonzik1 I used a corner 50x50x4 mm, a connection from a metal strip 40x4 mm, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).
Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid floorboards on the terrace, and began covering the façade with imitation timber. The cash was immediately treated with protective impregnation. During the work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive.
Interior work
With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not occur every week, but it continued. I finished with the floor - rough on OSB joists, a windproof membrane on top, stone wool slabs between the joists, sheathing, and OSB again on it. Linoleum is assumed to be the finishing coating. The house also got another window.
I brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, a vapor barrier on top and clapboard as cladding.
The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm; contrasting trim on the window openings added decorative value to the house. All internal walls will be covered with clapboard.
Gonzik1
There are no stoves planned, the house is for seasonal use - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to install electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, new substation, 15 kW per site.
For all those interested, the craftsman posted a calculation of materials (all used boards are 6 meters long):
- foundation blocks 200×200×400 mm, 30 pieces;
- board 50x100 mm, 8 pieces (for the bottom layer of strapping);
- board 40x100 mm, 96 pieces - approximately 8 pieces left;
- board 25x10 mm, 128 pieces - approximately 12 pieces left;
- timber 100×100 mm, 3 pieces;
- rail 25×50 mm, 15 pieces;
- imitation timber 18.5×146, 100 pieces – approximately 15 pieces left;
- insulation, stone wool 1200×600×100 mm, 28 packages (6 slabs each) – package left;
- windproof membrane 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls;
- vapor barrier 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls - approximately 0.5 rolls left;
- OSB 3 2500×1200×9 mm, 15 pieces (rough and finishing floor) – approximately 1.5 slabs left;
- metal tile 350×115 cm, 12 sheets;
- lining 12.5x96 cm, 370 pieces (10 packs) - not sure it’s enough, partially used for toilet hemming, and the walls are not finished yet;
- wooden windows 1000×1000 mm, 3 pieces;
- entrance metal door 2050×900 mm, 1 piece;
- protective impregnation for wood, 10 liters - 3 liters left, but the house is covered in only one layer.
Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary.
Gonzik1
- Foundation - 2500 rubles.
- Boards for the frame, wind protection, vapor barrier, imitation timber (exterior decoration), lining (interior decoration), insulation, etc. - 110,000 rubles.
- Metal tiles - 20,000 rubles.
- Door - 13,200 rubles.
- Windows - 4,200 rubles x 3 = 12,600 rubles.
- Forwarding SIP to the house - 3000 rubles (with the cable itself).
- Impregnation - 3600 rubles.
I’m still planning to install electrical wiring around the house, I think I’ll spend 8-10 thousand. I don’t give the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., etc., because I no longer remember how much I purchased. Total: about 165,000 rubles.
For another short but fruitful vacation - I finished the electrical work, finished the interior paneling and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100x40 mm board on the terrace, took it unplaned, processed it with an electric planer, and then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything was in place, nothing moved, did not dry out or warp. The craftsman has plans to complete the second block, but this test of the pen is excellent - an excellent summer house for a family holiday.
A novice summer resident who has just bought a plot of land has to... The choice of building materials is made taking into account the financial resources available to the developer. Low-budget projects are built using frame technology borrowed by the Russians from Western builders. Additional savings can be obtained if you build a frame country house with your own hands using one or two assistants paid by the day. This technology for building houses is also attractive due to the speed of assembly of the structure. You can build an object in a few weeks, and after finishing the finishing work, you can begin to operate it. Wall structures, lightweight through the use of modern insulation materials, do not require a powerful foundation. The multi-layer construction of walls, floors and interfloor ceilings makes it possible to hide utility lines.
Let's use the example of a two-story frame house to look at the main stages of its construction with our own hands. The dimensions of the object are 5 by 10 meters. The thickness of the insulation placed in the cells of the wooden frame is 15 cm.
The strip foundation from the previous building remained on the land plot, the dimensions of which were 5 by 7 meters. In order to save materials, the developer decided to use the existing foundation, increasing the area of the house by installing three brick pillars. The result was a combined foundation structure, 5 meters wide and 10 meters long.
Important! When using an old foundation, it is recommended to clear it half a meter deep from the soil around its perimeter. Apply modern waterproofing compounds to the walls, and also protect them from the destructive effects of moisture and temperature changes with hydroglass insulation. Then the space around the foundation is covered with sand, compacted and filled with previously dug soil.
The fertile layer of soil located in the foundation area is completely removed for its intended use on a summer cottage. Instead of this layer, sand is poured, which has good drainage properties. To erect a basement floor, vents are made in the foundation and 9 to 18 holes are drilled, which are necessary to place anchors with studs in them. After all preparatory work is completed, the surface of the foundation is treated with a waterproofing mixture, applied in several layers. Hydraulic glass insulation and film are laid on top of the foundation so that moisture does not penetrate into the base, which is laid out of brick during further work. The height of the base is 1 m.
Construction of the foundation of a frame country house based on an old strip foundation and additionally laid brick pillars covered with waterproofing
Interesting too! How to build a country house from a container:
Stage #2 – installation of the basement floor
The operation of installing the basement floor is carried out using the “platform” technology. A 50-piece board and a 10x15 cm beam are laid on the strip foundation. Two beams are attached to the brick pillars side by side. To fasten wooden parts, use studs mounted in advance for these purposes. To add rigidity to the structure of the basement floor, it is necessary to install two more beams in the center of the house. Thus, the height of the harness is 15 cm.
50 boards are laid and secured on top of the frame, maintaining a distance of 60 cm between them. A subfloor is filled from the bottom of this structure, using boards 25 mm thick. The resulting cells are filled with polystyrene foam, laid in two layers 5 and 10 cm thick. The gaps between the foam plastic and the boards are filled with polyurethane foam, after which a ceiling of boards (50x300 mm) is placed on top.
The installation of the base for the construction of the platform is made from timber using anchors with studs fixed in the foundation of the house
Laying foam plastic slabs for insulating the floor of a frame house is accompanied by mandatory foaming of the tile joints and cracks located between the material and the joists
Stage #3 – construction of racks and walls
The walls are assembled on the horizontal surface of the assembled floor of the frame house. Then the modules are attached to the lower frame, made of timber. The length of the first floor racks was 290 cm, taking into account the installation of a 45 cm crossbar. The height of the ceilings of the premises on the first floor is 245 cm. The second floor is built a little lower, and therefore racks 260 cm long are taken. It is very difficult to install the frame racks alone, so an assistant is hired to do this work. Within a week, the installation of corner and intermediate posts of both floors, all ceilings and crossbars is carried out.
Important! The connection of the corner posts with the upper and lower trim is made using 5x5x5 cm tenons, as well as metal connectors: staples, plates, angles, etc. Make sure that within the same wall the surfaces of the corner and intermediate posts are in the same plane. Compliance with this requirement will facilitate the future installation of the cladding, both internal and external.
Installation of the frame of the walls of a two-story country house is carried out by installing racks, strengthening their position with the help of slopes and horizontal crossbars
The distance between adjacent frame posts depends on the width of the insulation chosen for installation in the walls. Taking this requirement into account will save the developer from the need to cut the insulation, which will affect not only the speed of this stage of work, but also the thermal insulation of the facility as a whole. After all, any additional seams increase heat loss. In this project, the racks were installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
Stage #4 – strengthening the frame and assembling crossbars
Wall frames need reinforcement through the installation of struts and braces. The role of these elements is great, as they give spatial rigidity to the frame of the house. A frontal notch is used when connecting struts with racks and strapping bars. Half-pan cutting is used when attaching braces. Although this operation can be carried out using nails and bolts. Within one wall of a frame house it is necessary to install at least two struts. A larger number of these parts are taken if excessive demands are made on the strength rigidity of the frame being built. The final rigidity of the frame structure will be given by:
- floors;
- internal partitions;
- external and internal cladding.
When constructing a two-story country house with the need to install large-area floors, it is necessary to take care of the installation of crossbars. Thanks to the crossbars, it is possible to ensure the strength and rigidity of the joists laid on the second floor, and also to eliminate the possibility of their deflection throughout the entire life of the structure. At this facility, the crossbar is constructed in layers, each of which consists of three 50 mm boards of the required length, fastened on the sides with 25 mm boards, launched at an angle of 45 degrees and directed in opposite directions. The design is very durable and reliable.
Crossbar support in the frame structure. The crossbar is necessary for laying the second floor joists involved in the installation of a durable floor
The installation of horizontal crossbars is carried out above the frames of windows and doors, thereby limiting the height of the frame in these places. These elements, along with their main function, serve as additional amplifiers in the power circuit of the wooden frame. It is necessary to install two crossbars for each window opening, and one for door openings.
Veranda at the dacha of frame type. Step-by-step example of self-construction:
Stage #5 - installation of the roof truss system
The construction of the roof is carried out according to a drawing developed in advance by the developer. The drawing allows you to accurately calculate all the necessary building materials for the installation of the roof truss system, as well as the materials used for the installation of the roofing pie (rough coating, vapor barrier, waterproofing, finishing coating, etc.). The installation of a roof consisting of four bevels running at an angle of 45 degrees can be completed in a week by two people and an assistant. The height of the roof above the attic floor is 150 cm. The rough covering of the slopes is made of 25 mm boards. Then ICOPAL insulation is attached to the rough covering, and in some places it is replaced with ordinary roofing felt, nailed to the base with nails (40 mm).
Installation of a rafter system for the selected type of roof and laying a rough covering from edged boards with a thickness of 25 mm
Stage #6 – covering the external walls of the frame
All frame posts are sheathed on the outside with “inch” boards, the thickness of which is 25 mm and the width is 100 mm. In this case, part of the sheathing is attached to the frame at an angle, which makes the structure of the house even stronger. If the developer is not short on funds, then it is better to make the cladding from cement-bonded particle boards (CPB) or other board material. When carrying out work in cold weather, it is recommended to cover the roof and window openings with polyethylene film until the installation of double-glazed windows and the finishing roof covering.
Installation of external cladding begins from the front side of the house, then moves to the sides and finishes the work on the back wall, sparingly using lumber
Stage #7 – roofing and siding installation
The roof of a two-story frame house is covered with flexible bitumen shingles “Tegola Alaska”. When performing work, a hired worker is also involved. For the entire roof area of a house of 5 by 10 meters, 29 packs of soft roofing are needed. Each pack is designed to cover 2.57 square meters of roof. Two workers can lay up to six packs of soft roofing per day.
Laying a soft roof using Tegola bitumen tiles. Installation of a drainage system for collecting and draining rainwater
To carry out the external cladding of the house, siding produced by Mitten is purchased. With the help of skillfully combined Ivory and Gold colors, it is possible to give an unusual design to a two-story country house. Mitten Gold siding is used to finish the four corners of the house, as well as the walls under the windows. As a result, it is possible to obtain an interesting pattern that gives an unusual and stylish look to the entire structure. Facing is carried out in several steps:
- before installing the siding, the house is “wrapped” with Izospan wind protection;
- then fill the sheathing using 50x75 boards (step – 37 cm, thickness of the ventilation gap – 5 cm);
- they are fixed in the corners with dimensions of 50x150 mm;
- Afterwards, the siding is directly attached in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Installation of the external cladding of a house from siding is carried out within a few days by two workers using a metal frame purchased in a store or rented
Stage #8 - laying insulation and internal lining
Insulation of the walls of a two-story frame house is carried out from the inside using padding polyester mats and rolls of the Shelter EcoStroy brand. The rolled material fits between the frame posts without unnecessary joints, to which it is attached with a construction stapler. It is recommended to fix the insulation to the frame parts so that the material does not settle during the operation of the house. To insulate the attic floor, ecowool is used, which differs from other types of insulation due to its increased sound insulation properties.
For the internal cladding of a wooden frame, tongue and groove boards are purchased, which are nailed to the posts so that a flat wall plane is obtained. It is forbidden to allow gaps between the cladding parts, otherwise the walls will be blown through. Next, sheets of plasterboard are attached to a flat wall and covered with wallpaper. Drywall can be replaced with fiberboards or other sheet materials.
Laying of the selected insulation into the cells of a wooden frame is done from the inside of the room, while the joints of the padding polyester boards are glued with construction tape
List of consumables and tools
The following tools were used in the construction of a frame country house:
- Hitachi 7MFA circular saw;
- alligator saw PEL-1400;
- planer Bort 82;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- hammer, etc.
The materials used were timber, edged boards, tongue and groove boards, plasterboard, insulation, fastening elements: nails, screws, metal connectors, etc. Double-glazed windows from Rehau were installed in the window openings. All wooden parts were treated with Snezh BIO antiseptic. The construction of this facility requires the construction of scaffolding, as well as the purchase of metal frames.
Construction of scaffolding - an auxiliary structure necessary for the installation of roofing, wind protection, sheathing and other work carried out at height
Knowing how difficult it is to build a country house with your own hands, you can consciously decide to start work. Perhaps in your case it is easier to find a team of builders who know first-hand about the construction of frame houses.
A suburban area is not only land with a vegetable garden and plantings. Many city residents come there for a good rest, so it is necessary to have a house on the site. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to build a comfortable house on six acres. Many people get out of this situation by choosing the option of building an economy class house.
Inexperienced and novice summer residents are faced with the question of choosing cheap materials for construction. Below are examples of inexpensive and cozy country houses with visual photos.
Where to start construction
Any construction begins with a plan on paper. The house outside the city is not intended for year-round living, but for the sake of comfort it requires familiarization with the standard project.
Among the projects of country houses, the ones with an attic or attic are in the lead. This option allows you to avoid building outbuildings on the site. All equipment and work tools are stored in the attic. In addition to such a house, you can add a veranda or terrace that serves as a dining room.
Strip foundation requires more time and costs. The positive side of it is that it allows you to use the room under the floor as a basement.
The next stage of preparation is the material of the “box” of the future building. There are several types of inexpensive and reliable building materials:
Frame-panel structures
The frame is mounted using timber and sheathed with wooden boards of fiberboard or chipboard. Expanded polystyrene, glass wool or polystyrene are used as insulation. The result is a house with minimal costs that can be used all year round.
A house made of timber is distinguished by its durability. Construction work will cost more. When using cheap timber, you are likely to encounter the problem of building shrinkage. As a result, cracks and gaps appear. The cobbled house will also have to be insulated.
A clay house is the cheapest and easiest construction option. Construction materials are right under your feet. The construction technique is similar to clay sculpting.
The downside is that the construction process is too time-consuming. It will take several seasons to build a clay dwelling.
The trailer is common among new summer residents. The best option for living in the summer or during the construction of a comfortable house.
Construction of frame structure
Frame construction belongs to the low-budget category. Building a country house with your own hands without the help of specialists will not be difficult. If all the necessary materials are ready, the work will last several weeks.
To build a house you will need:
- beams for the frame;
- screws and corners;
- wooden chipboard or fiberboard;
- insulation;
- piles for the foundation.
Stages of building a frame house
At the marked places, piles are driven in the corners. Install concrete or brick supports under the joints of the walls. Then they are covered with waterproofing material and tied with a channel.
A lattice of beams is laid around the entire perimeter. Wooden logs are placed on top of it at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. All parts are secured with corners and self-tapping screws.
Next, vertical racks are mounted, firmly resting on the lattice grille. The finished frame is tied and attic logs are placed on top of it. Next comes the work of covering the frame with wooden slabs. At this stage, holes are left for windows and doors.
Now you need to decide on the choice of roof for your country house. Most summer residents choose gable and pitched roofs. To save money, the second option deserves more attention. When building a roof, do not forget about vapor barrier. The roof will be inexpensive sheets of corrugated board or ondulin.
External cladding is done using siding. Before this, the outer walls are insulated with special materials. Instead of plastic windows, ordinary wooden ones without double-glazed windows are installed. This approach will significantly reduce the cost of construction.
With the help of simple and simple tips, your country home will be ready for use in less than a month. Those who do not have enough time for construction can contact a construction company, which will offer to build a turnkey cottage for an affordable price.
A few words about the interior
No matter how the house looks from the outside, the inside of the country house must meet all the requirements of modern times. Gone are the days when dacha dwellings were used for cooking and sleeping.
Relaxing at the dacha means, first of all, comfort and organization inside the house. There are many budget-friendly ways to satisfy your most desired interior design needs.
Country - rustic style in the interior. Here you can’t do without cabinets and shelves covered with curtains with embroidery. Crocheted napkins, tablecloths and rugs made from old clothes will look good.
Where does landscaping of a suburban area begin? We propose to consider the option of building a small house with amenities and a terrace, which, after building a full-fledged home, will become an excellent place to relax, store household equipment, or even a cozy guest house.
Inside the house there is a separate bathroom (4), a relaxation room with good natural light (3) and a small shed with an entrance from the outside (1) for storing small items or setting up a mini-workshop. For a pleasant time in the fresh air, we will allocate a place in the plan for an attic (2), approximately 180x260 cm. The overall dimensions of the house are 6x6 meters, just the standard length of the scaffolding.
Foundation tricks
Our construction is based on 16 concrete pillars arranged in a 4x4 square at 2 meter intervals. The marking of the site is carried out with a grid stretched on stakes; from each of the 16 intersections, a mark is transferred with a plumb line to the ground. Four internal wells are dug strictly at intersections, twelve external ones - with an inward displacement of 7 cm.
You can dig by hand, drill with a motorized drill, or use a crane-drilling machine. We drill wells with a diameter of 350-400 mm to the depth of soil freezing plus an additional 50 cm. At the bottom of each well we pour a bucket of crushed stone or river pebbles, then add two buckets (25 liters) of grade 300 concrete with a filler of fraction 5-8. We stick 110 mm plastic sewer pipes (gray PVC) into the solution that has not yet set. We orient them with the sockets up; for long pillars, the pipes can be made prefabricated. We align the pipes vertically, as well as at intersections and the general lacing level, pour 1-1.5 buckets of sand into the pits, and fill the rest with earth.
After the bases have set, we pour the same concrete into the pipes; they can be seated by vibration or pinning. The column is reinforced with a 14 mm profile rod the full length of the pipe; an M12 pin 200 mm long is welded to the upper edge. Such a foundation does not react in any way to winter heaving of the soil: a smooth sleeve around the pillar does not allow the soil to freeze to the concrete.
Grillage and frame floor
A week is given for the pillars to dry. On top you need to stretch a fine (15 mm) chain-link mesh, painted or galvanized, two meters wide. We stretch it on the studs of the pillars, and sew the edges with wire.
Then a grillage made of 150x150 mm timber is assembled on the foundation:
- at intersections we make a half-tree cut;
- use a brace to make 20 mm holes for the studs;
- fold the internal grid of the grillage;
- we place the outer bars horizontally, following the bandaging scheme;
- tighten the nuts over the wide washers until the timber crushes the mesh;
- we finally draw out the general horizontal plane with linings made of roofing felt;
- cut off excess pins.
We attract the mesh to the grillage either with wire, or we hit it from below with galvanized nails. We put a windproof membrane into the cells and turn them high at the edges. Afterwards, the space between the beams is filled with a mixture of wood shavings and slaked lime 5:1 and covered with plastic film, the edges are fixed with staples.
A sheathing is mounted on top of the film: a 50x150 mm board is placed on edge in both directions to form cells of approximately 580x580 mm. There are eleven boards on each side, twenty-two in total. Along the edges and at intersections with grillages, the boards are drilled 70 mm with a 10 mm drill, then pulled to the base with self-tapping screws. The intersections of the sheathing must be carried out as on the grillage - with trimming in half the tree, all cracks and junctions are moistened and sealed with summer foam.
The floor frame, with the exception of cells located entirely under the terrace, is filled with mineral wool and covered with a semi-permeable (150 g/m) diffusion membrane. The floor is laid with edged tongue-and-groove boards over the entire surface. We make ventilation holes in the cells under the terrace in the frame boards.
Walls, corners, openings and junctions
Further work begins with two walls opposite the corner attic. First, on the flat base of the house, we lay out and assemble on self-tapping screws a frame of boards on edge with external dimensions of 570x240 cm. To the assembled frame we add 2.4 m of racks from 24x150 mm boards with an interaxial pitch of 60 cm. We do not throw away the short pieces from the racks, but cut them along 60 cm. We will use these short boards as horizontal crossbars in the frame for joining the sheathing.
We raise the wall vertically and temporarily attach it to the base with mitered boards. The bottom board of the wall frame is attached with 120 mm dowels to the ribs of the floor system every 40 cm. The second wall is assembled in the same way and installed perpendicular to the first, temporarily tied together with gussets.
Please note that the outer corner is “empty”. We cover it with foam, insert a 60x60 mm beam, and screw the outer boards of the two walls to it, having previously made holes for 100 mm self-tapping screws.
We assemble the remaining walls in the same way, the internal corner is processed in the same way as the external one. From the outside we sheathe the house with 12 mm OSB sheets 2400 long, so the vertical seams fall exactly on the centers of the racks. Place the sheets 200 mm above the wall frame; at the bottom, the sheathing goes down to at least the middle of the grillage. At the corners, the edges follow the frame of the adjacent wall.
When one side has been sewn up, we roll a 40x40 mm block along the vertical edge from the inside and fill the remaining space with foam. From the same corner we begin covering the next wall, screwing the edges of the sheets to the connecting bar.
To form doorways, choose a 50x150 mm board and knock down an installation box from it with internal dimensions of 100x210 cm for the entrance door and 80x210 for the internal ones (with a door width of 70 cm). Before installation, the vertical wall post is cut out completely (can be divided into 4 crossbars); after installing the box, 35 cm liners from boards are added on top of its vertical posts.
Window blocks with an opening width of less than 60 cm are formed by adding horizontal crossbars. The block for a wide window is assembled from a 150x50 mm board and inserted into the frame in the same way as a door, but in this case, fragments from at least two racks must be cut out for it, and the T-shaped junctions must be reinforced with gussets.
Everything you need to know about roofing and attics
To escape the cold and heat, the ceiling must have a layer of mineral wool insulation at least 200 mm thick. In this case, it is better to make the roof single-pitched and ventilated. There may be an attic, but only as a room for storing materials with a useful height of 40-60 cm.
From a 150x50 mm board we assemble trapezoidal single-pitch rafters with a height of 60 cm in the rear and 110 cm in the front. Two six-meter trusses are installed above the “full” part of the house, and five more will be installed above the attic.
To obtain sufficient rib width, a counter-lattice made of 50x50 mm timber is screwed onto the lower rafter boards with self-tapping screws. The top board of the truss turns out to be longer than six meters due to 40 cm overhangs in the front and back of the house. Therefore, you will have to either splice the existing timber with the overlays, or import a longer one. Vertical jumpers are installed one and a half meters from the low edge of the trusses. The rafters are strengthened with similar racks in the front part, but they are placed exactly above the walls under the direct lining of the terrace from the floor to the roof. The entrance to the attic is located in its widest part - in the inner corner of the terrace.
Attach the rafters to the wall frame, adjusting the solution of the latter in the upper part. Then add intermediate floor beams between the rafters from a 150x50 mm board with a 50 mm counter-batten. Hem the ceiling with OSB 9 mm thick and screw the external cladding of the house to the ends of the ceiling. Fill all joint gaps with summer foam, then place a vapor barrier and mineral wool into the ceiling, and nail a windproof, vapor-permeable membrane on top. Cover the attic floor with 12 mm OSB sheets, cutting grooves for the rafters. Along the vertical crossbars in the rafters, cover the vertical walls of the attic with OSB boards and insulate them as desired. Cover the rafters with plastic film and lay a cold roof made of metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
Interior and exterior finishing
In conclusion, we will give recommendations on finishing work. Outside, you have a flat plane with hidden posts every 60 cm. Therefore, both plastic siding and the block house will fit perfectly.
For interior decoration, drywall suggests itself, but attaching it directly to the studs would be a mistake: the wooden frame will move a lot and cracks will appear. The walls can be sheathed with OSB, followed by upgrading with MDF panels or clapboard. If you still intend to use drywall, prepare the profile frame according to all the rules.
The dream of many city dwellers is a beautiful small house outside the city, where they can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, hide from the heat, and feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under their feet instead of hot asphalt. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that a country house is complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple.
Planning the space
Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space. Thoughtful, competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:
- from the street – 5 m
- from the passage – 3 m
- from the neighboring plot - 3 m
We are not considering the option with a low area - water will accumulate there. Optimally, the highest place on the site is in its northern (northwestern) part.
Projects of small country houses
Considering typical designs of country houses, it is easy to notice that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested option for a country house, but you can dispense with the utility unit, because equipment and household supplies can be stored in the attic.
You can add a terrace to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-story country houses often obtained without actually constructing a “clean” second floor, having arranged instead attic. Then on the ground floor you can plan a kitchen and living room, and the second floor - for the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.
Advice! You can save significantly on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for installing a classic one (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you plan to live only during the “season” (late spring - early autumn), then to heat it in bad weather, you can get by with electric or infrared heaters.
Prefabricated country houses are becoming very popular - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof We replaced architecturally interesting buildings with an improved layout, one or two floors.
You are buying a kind of construction kit; such a country house can be easily erected with only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already includes all the systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands.
A prefabricated country house is designed for a long holiday with family or friends; it is larger in area, can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. Such a house is equipped with a technical room, a kitchen, rest rooms and a bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, and supplied with electricity.
The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin, necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work is required; it is completely ready for use.
Laying the foundation
The choice of foundation type is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, timber, frame houses and modular) can be erected on a columnar or screw foundation; heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-story houses will require the laying of a strip foundation (as an option - a prefabricated one, made of reinforced concrete blocks) along the entire perimeter and under the load-bearing walls of the house.
It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater lies.
In the basement part it is required to install waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick can be used as a screed. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. As an option, roofing felt can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is installed below the expected level of laying the floor beams.
Advice! In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.
A blind area is created around the base, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the cornice), with a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, a layer of crushed stone (gravel, broken brick) is poured on top of it and filled with concrete (rolled with asphalt).
Floor and walls
Flooring begins with laying joists. To insulate the floor, insulation is laid between the joists, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid. It is attached to the joists with a stapler, and the joints are taped. Then the subfloor is laid, for which they use an unedged, cheapest board, having previously treated it with an agent against dampness and rot. And only then the finished floor is laid out. In a two-story house, the frame for the floor on the second floor is the ceiling beams of the first.
