Do-it-yourself electrician in the apartment. We draw up and select the correct electrical wiring diagrams for the apartment. Sequence of installation work
Do you want to change the wiring in your apartment yourself? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you don’t have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself, this article is for you.
Calculations and diagram
Single-line diagram according to GOST
First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you don’t need to be an engineer, because you don’t need a complicated linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing by hand. An electrical wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly distribute the cable throughout the apartment, and calculate its approximate amount, as well as determine the load on each future line.
Wiring diagram
Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, take into account what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.
It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are pass-through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one busy line, for example in the kitchen; it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.
Determine the required number of lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.
Cable selection
In order for electrical appliances to operate without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate cross-section. And if there are several consumers on the same line (for example to the kitchen) (and there will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave cable safety margin, that is, select the desired cross-section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.
In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule. — For outlet lines, use a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 sq. mm, for all lighting 1.5 sq. mm, and for a hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq. mm - and everything will be fine!
Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in Watts.
Simplified power formula
The cable must be three-core (phase, neutral, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change the wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (with grounding), because all modern devices have an additional protective terminal, and automatic protective equipment only works using grounding .
To replace electrical wiring, it is best to use a VVG-ng cable. You can, of course, use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft ones need to be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller grooves, and it is possible to insert the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross-section of 1.5mm)
Uncrimped wire with sleeve
Always take only cable in accordance with GOST! For example, an excellent cable is the Gostov VVG ng cable. This is a very important point in preparing to replace the wiring! You can save on automation or sockets (they can always be replaced), but don’t skimp on the cable - get a good one.
Marking
Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located; the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after renovation will be 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and place a mark every 7 cm (socket box size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.
For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for children's institutions, kindergartens and schools, where sockets and switches are installed at height not lower than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially in your home, you can do as you please. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.
Preparing for gating
Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as laying cables under baseboards or ducts.
Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a suspended or suspended ceiling; if these are not planned, then the ceiling needs to be chipped. And since, monolith of ceilings Ditching is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We strongly do not recommend ditching the ceiling yourself, since you need to know the technology for correct gating so that the whole house doesn’t collapse someday.
In cases where plastering of the ceiling is not planned, experienced craftsmen find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and tighten a new one in its place.
Using a 70mm or 68mm concrete crown (attachment for a hammer drill), holes for the socket boxes are drilled. Using a wall chaser or grinder, grooves are cut out for laying the cable. There should be grooves in the walls strictly vertical, not horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the panel are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.
If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugation is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed; the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation in accordance with GOST! Save on corrugation; if you don’t have drywall or wood (or other flammable materials), then you don’t need corrugation!
Noisy work
When you start hammering walls, don’t forget about the law. You can make noise with a hammer drill in apartment buildings only at strictly defined times; each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan you need to get permission from the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they start beating in response. It's better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.
Grilling
Before you start dabbling, it is highly advisable that the walls and ceilings be plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since everything socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw the monolith.
Check in advance the places where you will be trenching so as not to touch communications, such as old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't determine where the old wiring goes, call an electrician, or just turn it off in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For ease of work, make yourself a temporary carrier (extension).
The hole for the socket boxes is drilled to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, then drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown. After which, the cutting with a crown will go noticeably faster, one might say – it will go like clockwork. If it gets on the reinforcement, it is best to use another crown; in extreme cases, you can knock it off with a spatula. It’s better to use a hammer drill for help (don’t forget about neighbors and the police).
Working with a wall chaser or grinder
Grooves for laying cables go from the socket box to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the groove down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these tasks, but in extreme cases you can get by with a grinder and a diamond disc for stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, wear a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to prevent dust from entering adjacent rooms.
Cabling
Laying the cable on the floor is not difficult; it is enough to hold it to the floor in any way so that it does not float up when they make the screed. Usually they lay the cable along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall) so that later they know exactly where the cable goes.
It is worth noting that it is better not to lay cables under doorways! To lay the cable along the floor, it is better to make through holes between the rooms. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damaging the cable when installing the interior thresholds.
Laying the cable in the groove is also not particularly difficult. You can secure the cable in the groove using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster (construction plaster). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use for installing socket boxes. But before you smear the grooves with it, you need to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.
If the cable is securely fastened in the groove and does not stick out anywhere, the grooves can be covered with ordinary plaster mixture; this will save a lot of time.
About junction boxes
Junction boxes (or distribution boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.
Today, professional electricians will tell you that There is no need to install junction boxes in existing apartments! They can play a cruel joke on your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing, flooded neighbors, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It’s easy to give up junction boxes - do all the switching in the socket boxes! For this you need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Typically, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is needed to branch out socket lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.
Electrical panel installation
The most budget option is to install all the circuit breakers on the staircase in a common panel, where your old circuit breakers and meter are already located. To do this, it is necessary to route all the cables into the access panel. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.
Built-in or overhead shield is up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetically pleasing, but the overhead one is easier to install. All lines from the apartment go to the panel, and from it one thick cable goes to the entrance panel, the cross-section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example VVG 3 * 6.
Installation of circuit breakers
Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable cross-section. According to the rules, you cannot insert more than two lines into one machine; if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.
Today there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. The most necessary condition is the installation of circuit breakers for protection against overloads and short-circuit currents (conventional single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (current leakage protection).
It is best to install RCDs on the lines of high-risk areas: wet rooms, children's rooms. There is no need to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! They install one common RCD only for the purpose of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a fault in the event of a leak, + the entire apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, lighting or street lines, an RCD is not installed.
Installing additional types of protection is already a luxury: thermal relay (protection from cable heating), lightning protection, stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm, etc.
Shield assembly
One of the most crucial moments is assembling the shield. If you are using a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be any color except blue and yellow), all others (zero N blue, ground PEN yellow-green) are inserted into their busbars. When using RCDs or difavtomats (automatic and RCD “in one bottle”), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marked N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers made of wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.
For all connections in the switchboard, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate cross-section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and neutrals across the circuit breakers using a cable with a cross-section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fit into the clamp, or does not hold well in it.
Final installation. Sockets and switches
Sockets and switches are installed last, after clean finishing (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule of good installation is good contact!
Most of the outlets in your apartment are pass-through, that is, through them the cable goes in a loop to each subsequent outlet. To avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example IEK), they have a very poor (to put it mildly) clamp and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, pull all connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumps out of the clamp, it means you did not clamp it properly or the clamp was defective.
Among professionals, it is believed that the best clamps in sockets are produced by LeGrande and Schneider.
To ensure that the frames lie flat and tight, install a group of sockets or switches level, joint to joint, and screw them to the socket boxes with small self-tapping screws on two opposite sides, close to the wall. Then tighten the spacers inside the socket (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or screws!
Monitor the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use screws that are too long, as they may touch the wires.
At each stage of repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finishing.
In the practical work of any home craftsman, questions periodically arise related to the modification of the electrical circuit, when it is necessary to install an additional outlet, hang a new lamp, or completely refurbish a room.
The question immediately arises: how is the electrical wiring diagram made, and where should it be connected?
The situation is aggravated when the building is old, the apartment has had several owners, each of whom carried out renovations according to his own taste. As a result, all electrical wiring connection points are hidden inside the decorative coatings, and the routes for laying its cables and wires are unknown.
Principles of constructing an electrical circuit in an apartment
Any wiring is created using general methods and is somehow different from all other wiring schemes.
Required elements of the scheme
The basis for creating electrical wiring is the one to which electricity is supplied from the supplying organization. It can be installed at the entrance to a private house, on the staircase entrance of a multi-storey building - multi-storey or directly inside the apartment.
Electricity in the apartment panel from the input immediately goes to the electric meter - a device that takes into account its consumption. After it, it is distributed along the supply lines to consumers by cables and wires.
To protect circuits, automatic devices are used, embedded in the circuit inside the apartment panel in front of the cable going to the consumer.
Distinctive features
Each specific wiring diagram necessarily differs from similar designs due to the use of numerous designs of various models of electrical devices, wires and cables with their installation according to standard or individual projects using different methods.
Methods for supplying voltage to consumers in an apartment
The electric current from each operating household appliance is summed up in the apartment panel and taken into account by the meter through which the total load passes. Therefore, the current-carrying lines of the apartment panel are made of a thick section, which eliminates thermal overload of the wiring and aging of the insulation.
Wires from the apartment panel are laid with a smaller cross-section to consumers: the load through them is lower. But the material and cross-section of the core are selected according to reference books, taking into account the operating conditions of the wires and the power transmitted through them.
In this case, there are three possible ways to implement the scheme:
a loop (buses), when a common wiring line is created through distribution boxes, and from them there are branches to electrical points (sockets, switches, lamps);
radial method, which consists in supplying voltage to each socket with a separate cable, running directly without breaks or connections from the protection of the apartment panel;
in a combined way, combining elements of the first two principles.
Voltage supply via cable
All ends of electrical wires and cables are connected inside junction boxes. To connect them, a connection map is created.
An example is an electrical wiring diagram used in multi-story residential buildings built forty years ago. As an example, consider the structure of the old wiring of a one-room apartment.
An electric meter and two circuit breakers were installed inside the access switchboard. One was used for the socket group, and the second worked for lighting. From them, cables or, more often, wires - “aluminum noodles” went in a train to three (sometimes four) junction boxes:
1. rooms;
3. Sanitary unit and bathroom.
Both loops were laid in parallel lines to each box and switched in it. Since previously the loads on electrical wiring were small, separation by wire thickness was not used. The entire circuit was fully mounted with a cross-section of aluminum conductors of 2.5 mm2.
The distribution box for the toilet and bathroom was installed in the corridor and connected by wires to control the lighting of both rooms.
The diagram shows an option for protecting consumers connected separately to sockets and lighting devices. The principle of controlling consumers based on their location in the rooms was also often used. For example, AB No. 1 protects the kitchen and bathroom equipment, and No. 2 protects the corridor and room.
Inside one room, several sockets were often connected with a cable, and lighting was done with a three-arm chandelier controlled by a two-key switch.
The supply of voltage to consumers can be carried out according to other principles, when part of the load is connected through the third backup circuit breaker of the apartment panel. To determine how to connect sockets and switches, proceed as follows:
turn on all the lamps and plug in working electrical appliances, for example, a table lamp or a razor;
turn off any circuit breaker in the panel and monitor consumers that have stopped working;
make a note for memory;
turn off the next machine and record the changes;
analyze information.
Radial voltage supply
The apartment panel distributes electricity to circuit breakers, as in the previous case. In this situation, they are more carefully selected according to technical characteristics for each consumer based on individual load current.
The cable connects sockets, switches and lamps directly to circuit breakers without using any additional connections.
With this principle, the electrical wiring ensures increased operational reliability by disconnecting from the protection only the consumer where the malfunction occurred. However, in this case you need:
increased number of circuit breakers;
large dimensions of the apartment panel for their placement;
long cable lines.
Due to this, the material costs of creating the circuit and its cost increase.
Combined voltage supply
The method combines two developments: a loop and a radial connection, taking into account their application to local conditions. Due to the correct selection of loads, reasonable cost savings are created.
Principles of laying cable lines
Whatever electrical connection scheme is chosen, to implement it it is necessary to connect the apartment switchboard circuit breakers with wires to consumers.
There are the following methods of cabling on building structures:
along the ceiling;
on the walls;
under the floor;
mixed method.
Laying cables on the ceiling
The traditional old scheme, which is often resorted to now.
Cables from sockets, switches and panels rise along vertical lines to the ceiling and enter the ceiling below it. When it becomes necessary to turn and connect wires to the junction box, for example, to connect a switch, only create a right angle no lower than 15 cm from the top.
This method allows you to avoid accidental damage to hidden wiring in the future when drilling into walls to attach shelves, pictures and other elements.
Laying cables along the wall
The method is similar to the previous one, but the cable lines are directed only along the walls.
There may be obstacles on the way of the electrical main: water supply, sewerage, heating pipelines, gas pipelines. They must be bypassed, creating an air gap as an insulating, separating area of at least 3 cm.
Laying cables on the floor
This method began to be used relatively recently in the construction of new buildings. The cables from the apartment panel are lowered down, laid under the floor covering, protected from mechanical stress. They are routed to the sockets vertically.
When connecting sockets with a cable, jumpers are laid along the floor in pipes or tapped into walls.
Junction boxes are installed to connect lamps and switches.
Features of electrical wiring in panel houses
With the in-line factory method of manufacturing multi-story buildings, uniform templates for wall and ceiling panels are created. Empty channels for laying wires are immediately made inside them.
For technological reasons, their direction may differ from strict vertical and horizontal orientation.
The first panel buildings, called Khrushchev buildings, have specific electrical wiring laid under the wooden floor of the apartment. It rises vertically to the sockets in the wall cavities, and is supplied to the lamps and switches through a hole in the concrete floor slab of the neighbor above.
In this way, they previously tried to save material costs on wiring, but they neglected safety elements.
How to make a wiring diagram in an apartment with your own hands
Electrical equipment requires compliance with strict operating rules. Incorrect connection to the voltage network creates an increased risk of injury at home. For this reason, all electrical work is carried out by trained specialists who have undergone training and passed exams.
Connecting electrical appliances on your own is usually not very difficult and ends well even if you make a few minor mistakes. However, when engaging in such activities, it is necessary to first study the safety rules and current regulations.
Electrical wiring diagrams are carried out by design organizations that have received state permission for this type of activity. It is quite acceptable to try to make a project with your own hands and get advice on it from a specialist.
To do this you will need:
create a room plan to scale or use the developer’s technical drawings;
mark all furniture and large items on it in compliance with proportions;
determine the installation locations of electrical consumers, assess their load;
plan the placement of electrical points: sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes;
mark electrical wiring routes along the walls, ceiling or floor;
make a sketch for each room.
Room plan
Such a drawing should be kept in the housing and communal services documentation. If you don’t have access to it, you can use a tape measure and draw a simple sketch yourself on paper.
Furniture arrangement
Stationary placement of large items in the room should not clutter sockets and lamps. Access to switches must be made free and their use convenient.
Therefore, all electrical points are placed taking into account the free area of building structures. This gets rid of .
Assessment of power consumption of electrical appliances
Analysis of the created loads allows you to:
group consumers;
select protection and switching devices for them;
choose the design of cables and wires.
Selection and calculation of electrical wiring is carried out according to the applied load for open and closed modes of operation using electrical reference books.
Determining the installation locations of electrical points
Planning the location of switches, sockets and lamps is carried out taking into account the solutions to the issues discussed above.
The coordinates of each electrical point are indicated on the sketch. They are used to mark building structures. It will allow you to design the direction and calculate the length of wires and cables for their purchase.
Such a plan is drawn up for each room. It will become the basis for creating a wiring diagram for the electrical wiring in the apartment, will help to purchase the necessary materials, and perform optimal installation work.
By saving it in home technical documentation, you can always recall the features of the electrical circuit in memory for its modifications and modernization.
Having the skills of an electrician is valuable in the conditions of modern life, when negotiated prices are fundamental and can, in the event of an unforeseen accident in the apartment, significantly weaken the wallet due to their fairly high level.
Most people are known to limit their electrical knowledge to the simplest process of replacing a light bulb in a lamp. And only a meticulous few who strive to learn as much valuable information as possible master the theory and practice of electrical installation work.
In the future, when the question of how to install new wiring in an apartment becomes relevant, they do not need to decide whether to invite craftsmen or save money using their own skills.
The main risks if you want to carry out electrical work
There is an expression “to rent out an apartment turnkey”. The main essence of this concept is based on the complete implementation of all work, including electrical work, which is represented by typical wiring diagrams in an apartment.
And, since with such a standard implementation of the general range of finishing and installation processes, everything is carried out according to a single approved project, it is quite natural that upon moving in, residents have to make many changes to the layout, as well as to the order of placement of electrical points.
Some people are not satisfied with the quality of work, others want to change the template order and install everything in a new way, according to their own needs. This, in turn, requires additional expenses and considerable ones. But the apartment itself has already cost a huge amount and few people will like the extra expenses.
Replacing wiring in an old apartment
Almost the same picture emerges when it is necessary to carry out major repairs in an old apartment. In addition to all finishing work, replace old wiring with new wiring connected to modern sockets and switches.
But, if finishing the finishing yourself does not seem to be a particularly difficult task, then how to change the old wiring with your own hands without having the appropriate knowledge? Hard to imagine.
Work related to electricity has an increased degree of accuracy and if a mistake is made, this can lead not only to the stoppage of vital activities in the apartment (turning on the lights, operation of electrical appliances and various equipment), but also create risks for human life. This means you either need to be a specialist yourself, or invite qualified electricians.
You should not rely on your own strength and consider yourself a knowledgeable person in this area, just by watching a couple of educational videos on the Internet. This is not the case. Everything is much more serious here.
Only qualified specialists will carry out high-quality electrical installation work. They will determine which wires are used (for wiring) by requesting linear diagrams from the BTI, carefully groove the walls and ceilings without causing a short circuit, and perform all the necessary work according to the specific wishes of the residents. Right up to drawing a line to the shields.
Key points in home network planning
Despite all the precautions, there is one job related to the electrical installation process that can and should be done by apartment residents. This means drawing up a plan for laying a new network and determining the location of electrical points.
Only the owners of the apartment can draw up such a diagram and indicate on it the following points:
- Places where sockets and switches will be most conveniently located.
- The most suitable heights from the floor to the location of electrical points.
- The number of ceiling and wall lamps and areas for their fastening.
- Type of wiring (open or hidden) and so on.
It is important to approach this task very responsibly. Make diagrams separately for each room. Pay special attention to rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen). You can take a photo of the wiring in an apartment found on the Internet as a sample, if the size and layout plans match.
Those who know how to work in special computer programs such as CAD can make clearer diagrams using the designations included in the program for various parts and elements directly related to electrical engineering. Their designations completely coincide with those officially approved. Such diagrams will be more understandable for professional electricians.
Be careful, children!
The main attention of young parents when solving the problem of replacing old wiring with new ones is focused on the safety of children. It is important for them that sometimes overly curious kids cannot accidentally harm themselves by becoming interested in electrical objects.
In such cases, closed sockets with special interlocks are purchased if they are installed in places accessible to children.
Wires are hidden in walls or in electrical boxes (if the wiring is open). The best option in modern living conditions is remote control of electricity using a remote control.
Techniques for conducting and hiding wiring in an apartment
The two most well-known methods of wiring in an apartment: hidden and open. The first, as stated above, involves grooved walls and ceilings.
At the same time, at the time of laying the wires in the grooves, for protection and to ensure the convenience of further work, the wiring is pulled through the corrugation. Having secured it in the recess along the entire line of the excavation, plastering work is carried out. Align the places where the corrugation is laid and then carry out the usual finishing work (putty and painting or wallpapering).
Unlike the hidden type, the open type is based on the visible distribution of wiring throughout the apartment. This method of arranging wires along surfaces can be used in the event that a certain old section of wiring is blocked or if it is necessary to carry out a specifically open form of electrical wiring.
Here, instead of corrugation, plastic electrical boxes (cable channels) of various sections are used, which are mounted on the surface of the walls vertically or horizontally. The wiring is located inside the cable.
Laying wires on the floor and ceiling
The open type of wiring and protection of wiring in apartments is not used as often as the hidden type. It is worth agreeing that, for example, wiring along the ceiling in an apartment looks much more advantageous when hidden, and the presence of too many cable channels can create a feeling of cramping in the apartment.
This method of electrical installation is more suitable for private houses, where this type of wiring is dictated by fire safety measures.
One of the options for the aesthetic design of open wiring is to run the wiring in the apartment along the floor. In this case, it is convenient to lay wires in hollow plastic skirting boards, which simultaneously serve as cable ducts.
The premises acquire external aesthetics. Most often, in this way, television wires or low current (telephone and computer wires) are hidden.
Photo of wiring in the apartment
Many houses still have electrical wiring from Soviet times that has long failed to meet modern safety requirements. It was intended for only 4 kW, while now when designing it is necessary to calculate the wiring for 10 kW and above. New cables and wires can be installed, but the work is labor-intensive and complex. Installation of electrical wiring in a private house and apartment is done with your own hands only when a clear plan has been drawn up and there are step-by-step instructions.
DIY electrical wiring installation
Replacing wiring
If the electrical wiring in the apartment is made by hand from aluminum wire, its service life will be no more than 20 years. Do-it-yourself electrical wiring with new lines is only possible when the apartment is being renovated.
First of all, you need to think about the power and number of devices. The layout of the lighting system, sockets and junction boxes depends on many factors, in particular on how furniture, windows and doors are located in the apartment. An accurate wiring diagram must be created. The work stages should be as follows:
- Electrical wiring design: drawing up a diagram; selection of brands and sections of wires, protective devices and illumination of each room.
- Wall chipping; wiring; connection of cores in distribution boxes; installation of an apartment panel, installation of automatic machines in it and connection of an external network cable; checking the wiring.
- Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps; connecting electrical appliances that do not contain sockets.
Electrical wiring project
The comfort and safety of using electrical appliances depends on a quality design.
Scheme development
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring installation can be done efficiently only when there is a power supply diagram for the apartment.
House power supply diagram
In the figure, the external wiring in the entrance panel is highlighted with a dotted line: grounding, main circuit breaker and RCD. Not a single power supply scheme for a house or apartment can do without an electricity consumption meter (E).
The phase and neutral wires are crossed out with two dashes. The protective conductor must be laid separately. Three-phase input is indicated by three dashes. Group machines are located in the panel. Separate lines with protection are made for the bathroom, electric stove and heater. You can choose the brand of RCD at your discretion.
In addition to the power supply diagram, electrical wiring is installed independently when there is an electrical diagram that is superimposed on the apartment plan and includes the following elements:
- switches;
- sockets;
- lamps;
- distribution boxes;
- apartment shield;
- terminals for connecting electrical equipment: forced ventilation systems, air conditioners, ovens, etc.;
- location of wiring laid through the premises.
The figure below shows a typical electrical wiring design.
Electrical scheme for a two-room apartment
The wiring diagram determines all repairs for the following reasons:
- any competent repair can and should be done with changing the wiring;
- subsequent work will not allow changing anything in the electrical part;
- high-quality repairs include effective lighting and convenient placement of sockets, switches and electrical appliances.
If electrical wiring is installed correctly, there will be no carriers, extension cords, or power adapters on the floor. When the repair is done correctly, there should be no mobile electricity transfer devices in the apartment. The exception is when connecting to power tool outlets.
If we consider the distribution of sockets in rooms, then the installation plan is mostly chosen very approximately and not always correctly. It is best to take them to different ends of the room. In this case, you need to draw up a plan in advance for the location of electrical equipment and furniture so that sockets and switches that require constant access are not blocked. If this does not happen, it means the wiring has been done correctly and the outlets are being used optimally. In this case, you will have to run new wires over expensive wall decoration.
You need at least two sockets for the TV, since it will require additional set-top boxes: digital or satellite, as well as video players.
At least three outlets must be installed for the computer and all the equipment necessary for it. Their height from the floor is now 30-40 cm. Thanks to this, the sockets are not visible from behind a table or sofa, which is aesthetically pleasing and practical. This means that the old openings will have to be walled up and new ones made, and a channel will need to be built to them.
Maximum energy consumption occurs in the kitchen. Separate cables must be laid for an electric oven, microwave oven and washing machine, since the power of each electrical appliance exceeds 1.5 kW.
An RCD is connected to each of these devices.
The work area requires a whole block of outlets, since the number of auxiliary electrical equipment is growing every year. For a small kitchen, two sockets will be enough, since many appliances will not fit there. It is convenient to place them above the tables so that they can be easily turned on. We also need to make sockets for electric ignition of gas burners and an additional exhaust fan.
The refrigerator only needs one outlet, to which you can easily connect. If any stationary electrical appliance is built into a cabinet, then it is convenient to use a separate machine located in the control panel. This will be a reliable guarantee that the connections will not short out if water enters.
The design transformation plan should not negatively affect the electrical safety of the premises. In an unexpected situation, designers will never be to blame. If the electrical wiring is done incorrectly, the person who had to install it is responsible for this.
Wire selection
Wires and cables are laid in walls (hidden wiring) or in boxes and pipes (open). Cable routing is allowed to be open, but they are more often placed behind partitions or in auxiliary rooms.
The most used cable for home electrical wiring is VVG or VVGng (less commonly, PUNP and NYM).
It is better to connect to the floor panel with an NYM cable, as it is more reliable in terms of fire safety. Despite its high cost, it is often used as a power cable when installing electrical wiring in a private house or apartment. It will not prevent them from replacing the cheap and fire-hazardous VVG input, for example, in a new building.
The VVGng cable does not propagate combustion due to the use of fire-resistant plastic compound. It is convenient to use for laying if it has a flat shape.
PUNP is the cheapest flat wire with 2-3 cores. It has insulation that loses its properties when heated. It is not recommended to include it in the home electrical solutions plan.
It is better to make the internal wiring of the shield using wires PV2, PV3 and PV4 with a diameter of 4 mm. To install the wiring, you will need plastic boxes, clamps, corrugated hoses and distribution boxes. It is advisable to purchase skirting boards with cable channels.
The entire load of the apartment or house falls on the input cable. Its cross-section is determined depending on the total power of all electricity consumers. Multiplying it by the utilization factor - 0.75, we find the power consumption. It is also necessary to take into account the reactive power consumed by the washing machine motor. To do this, its power is divided by the coefficient cos φ = 0.85. It should be taken into account that the water heater in the washing machine is an active and significantly predominant load. If fluorescent lamps are used, their reactive power is also taken into account (cos φ = 0.8).
When doing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands, you should take into account the reactive load, here there is much more of it than in an apartment: asynchronous motors of machines and pumps (cos φ = 0.85), welding transformer (cos φ = 0.5-0.7) , power tools.
Having established the total power in each circuit, using the table you can select a wire or cable of a suitable cross-section. At the same time, a reserve is made for possible additional connections in the future.
Table for selecting the cross-section of a copper conductor based on power consumption or current
| Section, sq. mm | Core diameter, mm | Power/current | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| One wire PV-1 or PV-3, kW/A | Two wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A | Three wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A | Four wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A | One two- | One three- conductor cable VVG, PVS or PUNGP, kW/A |
||
| 0.5 | 0.79 | 2,2 / 10 | 1,98 / 9 | 1,76 / 8 | 1,54 / 7 | 1,76 / 8 | 1,54 / 7 |
| 0.75 | 0.97 | 2,86 / 13 | 2,64 / 12 | 2,42 / 11 | 2,2 / 10 | 2,42 /11 | 2,2 / 10 |
| 1 | 1.13 | 3,3 / 15 | 3,08 / 14 | 2,86 / 13 | 2,64 / 12 | 2,86 / 13 | 2,64 / 12 |
| 1.5 | 1.38 | 4,4 / 20 | 3,74 / 17 | 3,3 / 15 | 3,08 / 14 | 3,52 / 16 | 2,86 / 13 |
| 2.5 | 1.78 | 5,94 / 27 | 5,28 / 24 | 4,84 / 22 | 4,84 / 22 | 4,84 / 22 | 4,18 / 19 |
| 4 | 2.25 | 7,92 / 36 | 7,48 / 34 | 6,82 / 31 | 5,94 / 27 | 6,16 / 28 | 5,28 / 24 |
| 6 | 2.76 | 10,12 / 46 | 9,02 / 41 | 8,14 / 37 | 7,7 / 35 | 7,7 / 35 | 6,6 / 30 |
| 10 | 3.57 | 15,4 / 70 | 13,2 / 60 | 12,1 / 55 | 9,9 / 45 | 11 / 50 | 9,9 / 45 |
| 16 | 4.51 | 19,8 / 90 | 16,5 / 75 | 15,4 / 70 | 14,3 / 65 | 15,4 / 70 | 13,2 / 60 |
| 25 | 5.64 | 27,5 / 125 | 22 / 100 | 19,8 / 90 | 17,6 / 80 | 19,8 / 90 | 16,5 / 75 |
| 35 | 6.67 | 33 / 150 | 26,4 / 120 | 24,2 / 110 | 22 / 100 | 24,2 / 110 | 19,8 / 90 |
| 50 | 7.98 | 41,8 / 190 | 36,3 / 165 | 33 / 150 | 29,7 / 135 | 30,8 / 140 | 26,4 / 120 |
| 70 | 9.44 | 52,8 / 240 | 44 / 200 | 40,7 / 185 | 36,3 / 165 | 38,5 / 175 | 34,1 / 155 |
| 95 | 11 | 63,8 / 290 | 53,9 / 245 | 49,5 / 225 | 44 / 200 | 47,3 / 215 | 41,8 / 190 |
| 120 | 12.36 | 74,8 / 340 | 61,6 / 280 | 56,1 / 255 | 50,6 / 230 | 57,2 / 260 | 48,4 / 220 |
Protective equipment is selected for the cable. If it can withstand a current of 25 A, then the RCD or circuit breaker is set to 16 A.
The power of the electricity consumption meter and the maximum consumption of electrical appliances must correspond to each other, otherwise the system will be de-energized. The characteristics of the meter indicate what energy consumption it is designed for.
Lighting selection
Illumination is measured in lux (lm/m2). The figure below shows indoor lighting standards.
Residential lighting standards
When installing electrical wiring in an apartment, it is necessary to include in the work plan the possibility of using additional lighting. In the bedroom or living room it is used to highlight interior details and zoning rooms. It has nothing to do with lighting standards, but sockets with easy access must be installed for it. In the kitchen, lighting is done in cabinets, as well as in the work and dining areas. There should be light in the bathroom where the washing machine is located or near the mirror. Switches and sockets are used with moisture protection.
Wiring
The plan for laying hidden wiring provides for its placement in grooves or under plaster. It is secured with plastic clamps every 0.4-0.5 m. For new distribution boxes, recesses are prepared and installed using alabaster. Old ones are also partially used if they are on the route. External wiring is placed in cable channels.
The laying is done strictly horizontally and vertically. Then there will be less chance of a self-tapping screw hitting the wire when drilling holes in the wall.
The ends of the wires inserted into the box are stripped and connected as required by the diagram. It is advisable to make connections using terminal blocks, soldering or crimping. Twisting is considered a temporary connection, but it can be further modified.
The entire electrical circuit and how the wiring will work in a private house or apartment depend on the distribution panel. It is placed near the front door. If the wall is made of plasterboard, choose a built-in version of the shield, and on reinforced concrete, install an external one. The location is made at a low height (about 1.5 m). The shield is fastened with dowel-nails or self-tapping screws. Placing the meter in the panel is not required, since it must be installed in the entrance, and in a private house - on an external power supply pole.
You can buy a shield in a store when you know how much equipment you need to put inside, while leaving some spare space. The standard panel contains DIN rail mounting points into which all electrical equipment can be easily inserted and fixed. The connecting wires inside are installed new and without twists. The phases and neutral wire differ in color. If it is the same, markings are made from colored tubes or using inscriptions. For input and output cables, a reserve length of at least 120 mm is left for possible repairs.
The connection of the input cable and the electricity consumption meter is carried out by electrical service specialists.
Installation of socket boxes, sockets and lamps
The center of the location of the first socket is marked on the wall, and then, if required, after 71 mm the middle of the next one is marked (standard center-to-center distance).
Installation of socket boxes and sockets
Making recesses for a socket box in a concrete wall is a labor-intensive process that requires a hammer drill with a special crown. Then grooves are made through them, and electrical wiring is laid. The best solution is to run separate wires to each outlet. A plug for the wires is cut out in the socket box and checked to see how it fits into the hole in the wall. Then the hole is primed, and a gypsum-based putty mixture is applied inside. Afterwards, the socket box, together with the wires inserted into it, is pressed strictly horizontally into the solution. The installation box should be flush with the wall surface. The grooves and gaps around the socket boxes are covered with plaster mortar only after they are completely fixed.
Sockets are installed with screws or self-tapping screws after the wall repairs and finishing are completed. In this case, the voltage in the supply wires is turned off. After installing the frames and panels of sockets, the supply of electricity is restored.
Plastic socket boxes can be used to install switches. Their installation is done in the same way.
Sockets in plasterboard construction are easy to install due to the fact that the material is well processed. Frame systems allow for hidden installation of communications with any number of wires.
Lighting fixtures are evenly distributed throughout the room. The classic solution is to hang a chandelier in the middle of the room. When installing it, you need to know that now it is necessary to connect a grounding wire to chandeliers and fluorescent lamps. When installing a stretch ceiling or a plasterboard ceiling, the chandelier is attached to the base through embedded elements. It seems that she is floating in the air.
Placing a chandelier on a suspended ceiling
Recently, spotlights that are placed in a suspended ceiling have become popular. Even before finishing it, it is necessary to determine the installation locations of the devices. It is rational to place the lamps at a distance of at least 1 m from each other, and 60 cm from the wall. However, they should not fall on the frame parts. The wiring is located between the base of the floor and the suspended ceiling.
Installation. Video
This video will tell you about installing electrical wiring in an apartment.
If you consistently go through all the stages from design to installation, then you can successfully do the electrical wiring in your apartment with your own hands. Such work should be included in the plan for the next repair and should be performed first. Step-by-step instructions are used for this. The convenience, reliability and durability of the electrical system depend on how correctly the circuit is drawn up, how the equipment was calculated, on the quality of the components and compliance with all norms and regulations.
Electrical wiring in an apartment is one of the main stages of repair and construction work, which allows for reliable and uninterrupted power supply to the entire room in accordance with the current requirements of PUE, PTB and PTEEP.
Since not only your personal safety, but also the safety of your property depends on the quality of doing the wiring in your apartment yourself, it is better to entrust this service to a highly specialized electrical installation organization with many years of experience. If you think that you can handle this matter on your own, we recommend that you read this article in full, which will describe in detail:
- Type of cable and wire products for each task.
- Recommended distance to sockets and switches from the floor.
- Number of circuit breakers or residual current devices to protect consumers.
- Nuances when chipping walls.
- Method of laying cable and wire products.
- Recommended number of outlets in each room.
- The best manufacturers of electrical products and much, much more.
Where is the best place to start electrical installation work in an apartment?
As a rule, electrical installation in an apartment begins with the planning stage. What does it mean? In order to correctly replace electrical wiring, installing new wires is not enough. It is primarily necessary to determine the installation locations of sockets, switches, household appliances, and so on.
If you do not properly arrange communications, it will be very unpleasant when, after completion of construction or repair and finishing work, some sockets are located behind cabinets or a bed, and switches are located either too high or too low.
Of course in such situations there is a way out! This is connecting extension cords, but a natural question arises - why then was it necessary to replace the electrical wiring if you constantly trip over them?
The first thing you need to do before starting a renovation is to develop a plan or order a design project. In this plan, you need to outline where you plan to place cabinets, sofas, armchairs, beds, cabinets, household appliances, and so on.
Basic Rules for a Good Plan
- All sockets should be located at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor.
- Switches must be located no lower than 90 cm from the floor.
- Sockets above the work surface in the kitchen are located at a height of 80–100 cm from the floor.
- A minimum of 4–5 sockets are required on the work surface to connect household appliances (processors, mixers, blenders, etc.).
- In the kitchen, it is necessary to additionally provide sockets for an extractor hood, refrigerator, washing machine, gas or electric stove, extractor hood, and heated floors (if available).
- In the bathroom, near the mirror, it is recommended to install 2-3 sealed sockets for connecting a hair dryer, electric razor, epilator, and so on.
- Also in the bathroom it is necessary to provide sockets for connecting a boiler, heated floor, washing machine, and water purification filters.
- In places where the TV will be installed (living room, bedroom, children's room, etc.), it is recommended to install 4-5 sockets, 2-3 of which will supply equipment (TV, tuner, game consoles, etc.) 1 will serve to connect the Internet cable "and 1 more for connecting the antenna cable.
- Sockets in the bedroom should be placed 2 on each side of the bed for easy connection of charging a mobile TV or a lamp on the bedside table.
- Also in bedrooms, it is recommended to install sconces with a switch near the outlet on each side of the bed to create convenience when reading books.
- It is better to place the switches on the right side of the door if you are right-handed and on the left if you are left-handed.
And so the plan for arranging sockets and switches was ruined. What to do next? Next we need to select the type of protection.
Selecting the type of protection
According to modern electrical safety requirements, each installation of electrical wiring in an apartment must be done in such a way that each wire in the electrical panel is protected by a separate circuit breaker or RCD (we’ll talk about this a little later). What does it mean? Let's look at a specific example.
An example of calculating protection for a one-room apartment
Let's say you have a wiring diagram for a one-room apartment. According to this diagram:
- In the room: 5 sockets for TV, 4 sockets (2 pieces each) near the bed, 1 switch and 1 air conditioner.
- In the kitchen: 1 electric stove, 1 air conditioner, 4 sockets on the work surface, 1 socket for the hood, 4 sockets for the TV (2 electrical and 2 for the Internet and antenna) and 1 socket for the refrigerator and 1 switch (double-key or single-key).
- In the bathroom: 2 sockets near the washbasin, 1 socket for the washing machine, 1 socket for the boiler, 1 socket (or rather just phase and zero) for the heated floor and 1 switch.
- In the corridor: one socket and 2 pass-through switches.
According to the requirements of DBN and PTEEP, each cable must have its own protection using RCDs (sometimes they are replaced by circuit breakers). Based on these standards, the following number of RCDs (AV) must be installed in the electrical panel:
- In the room: 2 16 A RCDs, one of which will protect the air conditioner, the second a socket group and one 10 A circuit breaker to protect the lighting circuits.
- In the kitchen: one 16–32 A RCD (depending on the consumer’s power) to protect the electric stove and oven, one 16 A RCD for the socket group, one 10 A circuit breaker for the lighting circuits.
- In the bathroom: one RCD for a washing machine, one RCD for a boiler, one RCD for a socket group, one RCD for a heated floor, one AV for lighting circuits.
- In the corridor: one RCD for a socket group and 1 AV for lighting circuits.
Based on the above calculations, we will need an electrical panel for 24 modules, 20 of which will be occupied by an RCD and 4 AV lighting (if the input circuit breaker will be installed in a switchboard on a flight of stairs and overvoltage protection will not be installed in the electrical panel (Barrier, ZUBR, etc. If the input AV and surge protection are installed in this panel, then it should have 36 modules (7 modules will be backup).
What is the difference between RCD (residual current device) and AV (circuit breaker)
The main difference between these devices is the method of operation. What does it mean? In order not to consider in detail the operating principle and characteristics of each device, I would like to say one thing: circuit breakers are triggered only in the event of a short circuit in the controlled section of the electrical wiring, and RCDs are triggered when the insulation of the wires is broken or a leakage current occurs on the metal body of various household equipment.
To make it more clear, a residual current device serves to protect a person from electric shock, and AVs simply protect household equipment.
Why is it worth connecting your washing machine and boiler to a separate RCD?
Since the main consumer of electricity in both the boiler and the washing machine is the electric heating element, which is in contact with water, sooner or later it will break through to the housing, and if it is not powered from a separate RCD, then the light will go out in the entire apartment.
Selection of cable and wire products
According to the requirements of regulatory documentation DBN, PTEEP, PUE and PTB:
- To power power outlet groups, a boiler, a washing machine, an air conditioner, and hoods, it is necessary to install a VVGng 3x2.5 mm cable or a PVSng 3x2.5 mm cable.
- To connect an electric stove and oven, you need a VVGng 3x4 mm cable or a PVSng 3x4 mm cable.
- For lighting circuits, VVGng 3x1.5 mm or PVSng 3x1.5 mm will be sufficient.
- If you are replacing the wiring in a Khrushchev building, the input cable from the power electrical panel on the flight of stairs to the electrical distribution panel of the apartment should be made with a VVGng (PVSng) 3x4 cable, provided that you do not have an electric stove, or with a VVGng (PVSng) 3x6 cable if it is installed in the kitchen oven or electric stove.
What is the difference between PVSng and VVGng
The only difference between these brands is the method of execution. The VVGng cable (for example, 3x2.5 mm) consists of 3 monolithic cores with a cross-section of 2.5 mm, and the PVS cable consists of 3 cores that are woven from many small copper wires.
What does the “ng” marking in the cable name mean?
The addition “ng” means that the cable does not support combustion. Thus, if a short circuit occurs in the electrical wiring, it will go out on its own, thereby protecting your apartment from fire.
How to install cable and wire products (electrical cables)
- If a short circuit occurs in the electrical wiring, you can replace the damaged cable without dismantling the finish, since it will be easy to remove the cable from the corrugation and replace it with a new one.
- If the electrical wiring in the apartment is made in corrugation, then the cable has additional protection, and even if your neighbors flood you, the electrical wiring will remain undamaged since the corrugation is sealed.
- When pulling the cable through the metal profiles on which the drywall is attached, only the corrugation may be damaged, and the protective sheath of the cable will remain undamaged.
How to unplug electrical wiring in separate rooms
Let's look at an example of doing electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands. Let's say you have already assembled an electrical panel and ran cables from it to the rooms. However, what to do next if 2 or 3 cables come into the room (lighting, sockets and air conditioning), and 3-6 cables come out of the sockets (depending on the number of sockets)?
To do this, it is necessary to install a distribution box. In this electrical product, all cables are connected to each other using welding, soldering or special clamps (for example, WAGO).
Important! If you connect a socket group, then according to the marking and correct switching in the electrical cabinet, the brown wire is the phase, the blue wire is the common zero and the green and yellow wire is the ground.
What is prohibited to do when replacing electrical wiring in an apartment
- Connect wires outside the distribution wiring.
- Connect the wires using twists (since over time the contact in the twists will deteriorate and a fire may occur).
- Break the seals off the electricity meter (if it is installed inside the apartment).
- Chaining walls in panel houses. It is allowed to make only vertical grooves in the plaster layer or to lay electrical wiring in a corrugation behind a false plasterboard wall.
- Carry out electrical wiring repairs in the apartment using a truncated cable (TU marking). For example, if on a cable with the TU brand it is written that the cable cross-section is 3x2.5 mm, then in reality it can be in the range of 1.5–1.8 mm.
- Install cable and wire products closer than 10–15 cm to window and door openings.
- Use non-waterproof equipment in bathrooms. For installation in bathrooms, the degree of protection of sockets must be at least IP54.
- Install electrical wiring near gas or water supply pipes.
- Connect to AB 16 A a cable with a cross-section of less than 2.5 mm², since the cable will heat up and lose insulation, and the circuit breaker will not work.
- Make horizontal grooves.
- Connect equipment directly without any protection (AV, RCD, etc.).
- Violate the integrity of the load-bearing wall structure.
conclusions
Replacing electrical wiring in a Khrushchev house is a responsible process that requires certain skills and knowledge, since the safety of not only you and your family, but also all household equipment and fixtures depends on the quality of its implementation. And if you want the electrical wiring in a one-room apartment to last at least 20–25 years, then it is better to entrust this matter to proven electrical installation organizations.
Video on the topic
