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Stage-by-stage construction of a house: step-by-step instructions. Do-it-yourself house without construction experience We build a house from scratch with our own hands

Do you believe that a house can be built in one summer season? Starting with pouring and until the moment you move into it, having completed the entire amount of work in less than three summer months - this is a completely realistic time frame, of course, under one condition - if you have the building material fully prepared for the construction of the facility.

We are preparing the foundation for construction. The fact is that a house built according to is very simple to build and does not have much mass, so the construction of a sufficiently powerful foundation is completely unnecessary.

Our house's perimeter is 6 by 8 meters. The foundation for such a house is cast along external frames and taking into account one main load-bearing wall in the middle. Before starting foundation work, fertile soil was removed from the construction site and a sand cushion was laid on top of which the formwork would be installed.

Despite the fact that a frame house is practically not susceptible to fractures like brick houses from ground movements, nevertheless, the foundation must be made sufficiently reliable and durable.

For houses similar to the one we are going to build, it is enough to make a strip foundation, reinforced with metal reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm and with a mesh pitch of 10 cm. The width of the foundation is 25 cm, and its height is 60 cm.

If you decide to build a house with your own hands, then at each stage you may have many questions, the answers to which you can find in our article. For a private developer who has decided to carry out all the work with his own hands, it is important not only to understand the sequence of work and know the intricacies of their implementation, but also to correctly determine the choice of materials, wall design and type of foundation. If you build your house yourself, then choose a simple project, a simple configuration in plan and with a regular gable roof. It is much easier to build such a building with your own hands, and you can save on materials. From our article you will learn about building a house from A to Z.

Subtleties of choosing materials

If you decide to build a house yourself from the foundation to the roof, then before you decide on the layout, you should decide what you will make the walls from, since this may affect the planning decision and the project as a whole.

A residential building can be built from the following materials:

1. The easiest way to build a house alone is to use wood as a wall material. This environmentally friendly material is simple and easy to process, it is easy to install and is relatively inexpensive. A house made of wood has an optimal microclimate for human life. The material regulates the humidity in the room and saturates the air with beneficial phytoncides. You can make a wooden house from sheet materials using frame technology, from timber or logs. The only drawback of such houses is the susceptibility of wood to burning, rot and damage by insects. To protect the material, it is treated with special impregnations.
2. A house built of brick will be stronger and more durable. Knowing the rules for making brickwork, you can build such a building yourself. However, it is worth considering that brick has greater thermal conductivity than wood, so the walls will be thicker and require additional insulation.
3. Every private developer who has built at least some kind of brick structure can easily cope with masonry from aerated blocks. However, the speed of erecting such a building is much higher than making brickwork. In addition, aerated concrete has low thermal conductivity, so the thickness of the walls can be reduced by a third compared to brick. The soundproofing qualities of aerated concrete are also higher. The only drawback is the hygroscopicity of the material, so the facade needs finishing to protect it from moisture.

Important: if we build a house ourselves, then the weight of the wall material is very important. Thus, lighter aerated blocks are much more profitable to use than heavy bricks. You can save on transporting material and arranging a lighter foundation.

Even if we build a house with our own hands, it is necessary to follow the construction stages, the first of which will be associated with the construction of the foundation. Before you independently choose the type, design and material of the foundation, you need to study the geological features of the area, find out the groundwater level and the freezing mark of the soil. Depending on the material of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, you can use one of the following materials for arranging the foundation:

• ready-made reinforced concrete blocks;
• monolithic reinforced concrete;
• brick;
• screw piles;
• columnar bases made of pipes, logs, blocks or concrete.

Planting on the site

1. The construction of the house should be carried out at a distance of at least 3 meters from the border with the neighboring plot.
2. Even if you are going to build a house for display, you should not place it closer than 5 m from the border of the site, which runs along the road or driveway.
3. If there is construction on neighboring areas, then it is necessary to observe the minimum fire gaps between houses, which are standardized depending on the degree of fire safety of the structure. So, between two brick, stone or concrete houses there must be a gap of at least 6 m, between a wooden building and a stone house (brick, gas-block or concrete) there must be at least 10 m, between two wooden buildings the largest gap must be maintained, equal to 15 m.

Having decided on the planting on the site, selected the optimal layout and selected materials, you can begin construction, observing the order of work. Since there should be no problems with making brick or aerated concrete masonry, we will describe step by step how to build a frame house, because this type of structure is often used in private construction in every region of our country.

Construction of the foundation

Building a frame house yourself is quite profitable, because thanks to the lightweight wall material you can save on arranging the foundation. In this case, you can use one of two constructs:

• A shallow strip foundation is also suitable for this structure. However, you will need a significantly larger amount of materials and time to complete the work. The whole point is that you will need to dig a trench under all the external and internal load-bearing walls, waterproof it, install formwork, reinforcement cage and fill everything with concrete. After this, you need to wait 28 days before carrying out further work.

Installation of the columnar base is carried out in the following sequence:

1. After preparing the site and laying out the ground, holes are dug for the posts. The depth of the hole depends on the type of soil. On heaving soils, loams and sandy loams, it is better to make the base of the post no higher than the freezing point of the soil. In all other cases, a hole 40-70 cm deep is sufficient. The dimensions of the hole in plan depend on the material of the pillars. The easiest way to make columns is from concrete blocks.
2. A sand cushion 10 cm high is made at the bottom of the pit. The sand, after wetting with water, is compacted.
3. Then the pillar is laid from blocks. The elements are laid on cement mortar.
4. To perform vertical waterproofing, the pole is coated with two layers of bitumen.
5. Horizontal waterproofing is made of two layers of roofing material.

Arrangement of frame wall structure

Before building a house from wood, you need to treat all wooden structural elements yourself with antiseptics and fire retardants to protect them from rot and mold, as well as fire.

To make the frame of a wooden house, the following beams are used:

• For the bottom trim, it is worth taking an element with a cross-section of 100x150 mm.
• For the top trim - timber 100x100 mm.
• For gable posts – 50x100 mm.
• A beam with a cross section of 100x100 mm is used as side posts.
• Floor beams are made from 80x100 mm timber.

Installation of the wall frame is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The bottom trim beam is laid on the columnar base and secured to it with anchors.
2. The crown bars are mounted on the support beams. They are laid along the perimeter of the foundation in increments of 60-70 cm. On the beam of the lower frame, the elements are fixed by insertion or using steel corners.
3. After this, they begin to assemble the wall frame. The bars are fixed to the lower frame using powerful steel corners, which can reliably hold the beam in a vertical position.
4. Vertical posts are mounted along the edges of window and door openings.
5. Now the upper frame beam is fixed.
6. After assembling the frame of the four walls, the side corner posts are fastened to each other using corners. These racks are additionally supported by diagonal struts on each side. This will give rigidity to the entire structure.
7. Door and window openings are strengthened with additional posts, since the door or window structures will be fixed here.
8. Now you can start covering the walls with sheet wood materials (OSB, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood). The selected thermal insulation material is laid between the frame posts.
9. Then the floor beams are laid. They are mounted on the upper strapping belt exactly above the installation site of the vertical frame posts. For tight laying, grooves are cut out in the beams. For additional fixation, nails, screws and steel angles are used.
10. To make further work on the roofing easier to carry out, temporary plank flooring is installed on the floor beams.

Roof installation

When installing the rafter system, you can use one of three sequences of actions:

• The outer pairs of rafters are fastened on the ground, after which they are raised and installed on the harness in the place where the gable of the house is made. Two pairs of rafter legs are connected to each other by a ridge beam. After this, the remaining rafters are mounted on the ridge beam with equal spacing.
• The second installation option begins with the central pillars of the gables. After installation, they are fastened to the ridge beam, to which the rafter legs will subsequently be fixed.
• Another installation method is carried out in such a way that the pairs of rafters in the upper part are connected by a ridge plate, and their lower part is attached to a harness that performs the functions of a power plate.

After completing the roof frame, installation work is carried out in the following order:

1. A vapor barrier film is laid on the slopes formed by the rafters, which is fastened with staples and pressed against the rafters by counter-lattice strips. The film should be laid across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The overlap of adjacent strips is 20 cm.
2. The sheathing is installed perpendicular to the counter batten slats. The installation step of the guides is usually 30-40 cm. If flexible rolled material is used as a roofing covering, then a continuous sheathing is made of OSB.
3. After this, you can lay the selected roofing material.
4. The roof is insulated from the inside. To do this, heat-insulating material (mineral wool) is placed between the rafter legs.
5. Then the insulation is covered with a layer of waterproofing, which is fastened with staples to the rafters.
6. After this, the roof can be hemmed with clapboard, chipboard, plywood or OSB.
7. The eaves overhang can be hemmed with wooden or plastic lining. Instead, you can use special plastic spotlights.
8. The roof drainage system is installed on the wind board.
9. The pediment frame is sewn up and insulated in the same way as the walls.

Floor installation

1. First of all, cranial bars are attached to the frame beams. They are needed for laying subfloor boards on them.
2. After this, subfloor boards or plywood 8-10 mm thick are laid on the cranial bars.
3. Next, a waterproofing membrane is spread over the subfloor, going around the beams. The material is laid with an overlap (15-20 cm), the joints are taped.
4. After this, we place the selected thermal insulation material between the beams on the film. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the beams.
5. The entire structure is covered with another layer of vapor barrier. It is attached to the supporting beams with brackets.
6. After this, the floor is leveled with plywood or wooden floorboards.
7. The selected floor covering can be laid on top.
8. Now you can announce the completion of construction to your family.

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of building a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically frame house.

Step No. 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

Preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:

1. Site preparation
2. House marking

Site preparation

First, you need to clear the area of ​​vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the marking and allow you to make it more accurately.

If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will make your work much easier, and measurements in the grass may be subject to a large error.

House marking

Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depends on it. If the marking is inaccurate, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next stages.

Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls.

If you want to learn how to correctly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all the walls and corners are level and correspond to the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, it had to be submitted separately.

Step No. 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and it’s up to you to decide which one to choose.

Here I will tell you in a nutshell about suitable foundations for a frame house, and in what cases each of them is used, and also give links to their detailed description.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw foundation. This is practically the simplest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since installing a pile-screw foundation is not difficult even with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except rocky ones. Particularly suitable for swampy soils, where compact soils are located deep and other types require huge costs.

In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

Shallow strip foundations are also used quite often for construction. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires strict adherence to laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated in soils with very high groundwater levels and swampy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, slab foundations have become increasingly popular for building a frame house with your own hands. Despite its considerable cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not spend money on it separately.

Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step No. 3: Installing the floor of a frame house with your own hands

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step-by-step instructions, we will look in detail only at the wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything into one article.

Concrete floor installation

It is worth noting that a concrete floor in a frame house is installed in cases of a slab foundation or a strip foundation. With a slab, everything is clear - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is strip, the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor installation

Let's look at the construction of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For the tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, which can be made of thinner timber. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The installation of a wooden floor begins with tying the foundation. As a rule, the piping is made from timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the timber should be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.

In order to easily carry out the tying process with your own hands, we will divide it into several stages:

1. The timber is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, don’t forget about waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing felt.
   
2. The next step is to outline the joining points of the timber; they should be located on the pile, since these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
   
3. The timber is joined with an overlap of 20-30cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, so-called “locks” are cut out from the end.
   
4. The corners fit almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
   
5. The beam is attached to the foundation using bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails measuring 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the timber.
   
6. Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the internal walls of the frame house. This beam, to the already installed external one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally use fastening metal corners.
   

When the piping of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next stage of our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage it is advisable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if you plan everything in advance, there will be much fewer problems later.

The next step is to install the joists on top of the trim. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use timber measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a 50x200mm or 50x150mm board, sewing them together in twos.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board measuring 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installation of logs is a simple stage in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that must be covered in these instructions:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house

It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while preventing moisture from entering the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself is laid tightly, without gaps.

So we have looked at the instructions for installing the floor of a frame house, now it’s time to start working on the walls.

Step No. 4: Construction of the walls of a frame house

Our next step instructions I will be installing the walls myself. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all the boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners; some fastenings can be made with studs.

It is worth noting that almost the entire frame is assembled from boards measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required insulation thickness.

Some people think that it would be better to install timber in the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and I’ll tell you why a little later, during the installation process.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for installing the walls of a frame house into several stages:

1. Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
2. Installation and fastening of walls vertically on site

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the already finished floor of the frame house; this is the most convenient option. But we must take into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions be accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already installed floor.

To make it clear what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house , and then I will tell you everything in order.

Now let’s look at step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with your own hands:

1. First of all, we need to decide on the ceiling height in the house. Let's assume that the height of the rough ceiling will be 280cm. This means that the vertical posts of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265 cm. The diagram shows where the 15 cm came from.
   
2. The distance between the racks, as a rule, is selected based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is made less by 2 cm, for a tighter contact.
   
3. The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with 120-150mm nails. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
   
4. It is worth noting that each wall will be smaller in wall thickness than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible in the diagram.
   
5. If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the entire assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
   
6. As a rule, to add rigidity to the entire structure, jumpers are mounted between the racks. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they are installed one or two per space between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo; in the case when they are made one at a time, they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb boards, depending on further work.
   
7. Window and door openings in the wall of a frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
   
8. This is what it looks like “live”.
   

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board when calculating, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Putting the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Top trim and structural reinforcement

So, the frame of the walls has been assembled, now you need to make the top frame from the same board as the walls.

The top trim is necessary, first of all, for stronger adhesion of the corners, and will also give unity to all parts of the frame walls and distribute the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150mm nails over the walls, along the entire perimeter, including the internal load-bearing ones, so that all joints are covered with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for the corners, where the overlap will be equal to the thickness of the wall.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement using plywood or OSB board.

As a rule, having pierced one side along the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB boards, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The construction of internal partitions is almost no different from the construction of external walls, except that they have more lenient requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

1. Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort in terms of sound insulation.
2. The insulation inside the partitions will serve primarily as a sound-absorbing material rather than as thermal insulation.
3. Internal partitions can be insulated without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between internal walls and external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.

Step No. 5: Roof of a frame house

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof of other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I’ll even say more that installing a roof for a frame house will be less labor-intensive than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much simpler.

It is worth noting that building a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complex house layout, then you can easily do it yourself.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame one, is a very large topic with many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. Well, secondly, in order not to confuse you, I will probably move this topic to a separate article.

Step No. 6: Insulating the frame house

Now we have come to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - floor, walls and ceiling.

You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction; here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the insulation itself, but also the characteristics of wood, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a short instruction on how to insulate a frame house with your own hands:

1. Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side should be in the instructions for it.
2. From the inside of the house, between the studs, insulation is laid in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid overlapping the joint of the previous one to avoid cold bridges.
3. Floor insulation occurs in the same way.
4. It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic by first filling a vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with boards or plywood.
5. After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film over it; it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
6. Depending on the needs and further finishing work, sheathing material is placed on the walls on top of the film - boards or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, finishing is carried out.

As you have already seen, there was a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction were described in detail here DIY frame house, despite the fact that some points were included in separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.

Prefabricated houses are attractive because once the foundation is ready, the house itself can be erected very quickly. For example, building a frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly occurs step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to correctly assemble each unit. Having instructions and understanding the principle of construction, anyone can assemble a frame house on their own.

Frame construction is no less attractive because it can be done at minimal cost. How much money will be required for construction depends on the size of the house and the materials used (type and grade of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put it there. Despite the fact that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

One more thing. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is yes, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. There are also possible wintering options in the following form:

• foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection;
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.

It is dangerous to leave windows and doors unattended over the winter. In other options, delaying the completion of construction is even a good idea: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, there is low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already assembled part.

After pouring the piles, a grillage is installed, and the reinforcement is laid and tied into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement outlets from the piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and (insert sections of plastic pipes across the tape).

The strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation strip. To install it, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner, 30 cm are retreated in both directions. Here, studs are required, the rest depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Please note that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. That’s why it’s better to deliver more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there must be at least two studs.

When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.

After pouring the concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gains strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (look at the photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation remains within +20°C, construction can continue after about 3-5 days. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with it freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at +17°C you need to wait about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The safest way to do this is with bitumen mastic. And it’s better - in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. Roofing felt is cheaper, but it breaks over time. Waterproofing or other similar modern material is more reliable.

You can coat the grillage once with mastic, and roll out waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing coated with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

The first layer is liquid waterproofing. While it is not dry, you can glue a layer of rolled waterproofing on it.

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and fire-retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is placed so as to cover the joint of the first row. It turns out to be a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, you can lay one beam of 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a greater load-bearing capacity, although their installation takes more time. To make them work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We install the harness and logs

The next stage is installation and installation of the logs. These are the same 150*50 mm boards placed on edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the trim board, two nails on the right and left to the bed. So each lag is on both sides.

The photo shows that the first joist is installed close to the second - this way the load is better transferred to the foundation. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the cross-section of the lumber used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, to prevent the logs from “moving away,” jumpers are placed above the cross beam. Their length is equal to the step of installing the logs minus the double thickness of the board: if the step of the log is 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring has been installed, it is time to insulate the floor. It can be made in different ways, with different materials. We will show you an economical option - with polystyrene foam boards with a density of 15 kg/m3 (more is possible, less is not possible). It is, of course, not environmentally friendly, but it is the only one that is not afraid of moisture and can be installed without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they shift).

To begin with, a 50*50 mm cranial block is packed along the lower edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

The foam is cut with a regular hacksaw. The blade can be used for wood - it cuts faster, but you get a torn edge, or for metal - it cuts slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut slabs are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they seal the perimeter with sealant to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay the subfloor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). To prevent the rough flooring of boards from warping, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to look up and down (see photo).

You can do without plank flooring. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your region and choose.

In any case, the sheets should be laid in a spaced pattern - the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Also, do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size when humidity changes.

The plywood is attached with self-tapping screws 35 mm long (preferably white ones - less waste) around the perimeter in increments of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 40 cm.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part, depending on the size) on the floor, then raised, positioned and secured. Sometimes with this method, OSB, gypsum fiber board, or plywood are attached directly to the floor on the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-panel or “platform”. Factories generally operate according to this principle: they build ready-made panels according to the design in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But frame-panel house construction is possible with your own hands.

The second method: everything is assembled gradually, locally. The beam of the bottom frame is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate posts, the top frame, etc. This is the technology called “frame house construction” or “balloon”.

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract help. Working on the floor is faster and more convenient than jumping up/down a stepladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult even for two people to lift it. The solution is either to call help or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation pitch and cross-section of racks

Corner posts should be 150*150 mm or 100*100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner posts, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will be insulating with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, no gaps and cracks through which heat will escape. The density of installation of insulation in frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

Fastening the racks is possible in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. The corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels is an old technology, but difficult to implement: long dowels are planed, a hole is drilled obliquely through the stand and beam of the lower trim, a wooden tenon is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity is possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore the support must be more powerful.

Reinforced counters near windows and doors are a must. This is the only way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable

Bevels or braces

If the outer cladding is planned to be made of high-strength slab material - OSB, gypsum fiber board, gypsum fiber board, plywood - temporary slopes are installed from the inside of the room. They are needed to level and maintain geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is sufficient to create the required structural rigidity.

If the cladding is planned to be made from lining, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover, the best option is not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Please note that in the photo above the racks are prefabricated: two boards are nailed together along the entire length in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones and cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But construction time increases: you have to hammer in a lot of nails.

Corners of a frame house

The most questions arise when constructing corners. If you place a beam in a corner, then there seem to be no difficulties, except that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winters this is not a problem, but in central Russia it requires some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in diagrams, so it’s clearer.

After assembling the frame, it is most often sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Covering

The floor beams rest on the beam of the upper frame. There are several mounting methods:

• on supporting steel brackets;
• on the corners;
• with insert;

Notching - the depth of the cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the top frame timber. It is hammered in from above with two nails, which must go into the harness at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily perforated staples - the shape may vary

The dimensions of the beams and the pitch of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the cross-section is taken larger, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and attic on top are assumed to be non-residential, these are completely different calculations and dimensions.

If a second floor is being built, the ceiling is sheathed with the subfloor of the second floor. This will make it easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first one. The only reason is that all the lumber has to be hauled to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project using frame technology, the most popular are or. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only limitation concerns the weight of the roofing: it must be a light material, the load from which wooden beams and ceilings can withstand.

To fix the rafters in a given position before the sheathing was filled, temporary jibs were used

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Insulation

A frame house can be insulated with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is available in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the pushing force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm larger than the distance between the frame posts. The mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work with than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected on all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.

On the street side, the thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown, does not allow moisture in liquid or gaseous states to pass through from the street, and vapors can escape from the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, that's it, construction is finished.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detail of some processes is far from complete, but you have a general assembly sequence. Perhaps another video from a professional carpenter who has been building frame houses for decades will help you (see below).

Video instructions for installing frame houses

These are three videos of excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each of them lasts more than an hour. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to these instructions, self-construction is possible without any questions: all stages of building a frame house and small details are commented on and explained, down to what nails, what length, how many pieces in what increments, should be hammered into each node. The main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them are demonstrated. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clearer to you.

The first part is the lower trim and the floor.

The second part of the video is the construction and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is building the roof of a frame house.

If you still doubt whether to build a frame house, it is probably because you have heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are built from dry wood, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood is brought from the sawmill with almost natural humidity, and this is up to 60%. That’s why the houses twist and turn, they become cold.

But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will stop you from using dry wood? Kiln drying is expensive, the difference per cubic meter is very significant - almost twice. But by stacking the wood on the site in ventilated piles, it can be dried to the same 20-22% within a year. You decide for yourself whether or not to impregnate it with bioprotection before drying. Dry wood does not rot or be damaged by fungi, but it is advisable to impregnate it with bioprotection against insects.

An example of this opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...

There are more and more people wanting to build their own home. Surely you are one of them, since you visited our website. The desire to cope on your own is commendable. But, nevertheless, we must give advice - specialists are people who have spent several years of their lives learning construction. And it is extremely easy for them to build a house of the required quality in the optimal time frame.

Specialists know all the intricacies of the construction process, rules and sanitary standards, will make sure that problems do not arise in the future, will give the necessary recommendations, and will save time. Therefore, we do not recommend saving on hiring craftsmen from a successfully proven company in the construction market of your city.

Regardless of who will carry out the construction process, you need to know what tasks will require solving before you start pouring the foundation. Let's talk about this now.

So, you need to buy the plot on which the house will be built and properly formalize the legal transaction. I think there is no need to say that it should be located close to other existing residential buildings, because utility networks will have to be installed. But “dragging” them from afar is unprofitable.

It is important to correctly correlate your financial capabilities, the size of the plot and the approximate size of the future home. The ratio of the area of ​​the house to the total area of ​​the plot should be 1 to 10.

Remember that an area that is too large is difficult to care for, and a small area will not allow it to “expand” in the future.

However, even before purchasing land, you must hire specialists who will conduct a geological survey of the site and topographic survey of the area. They will take soil and water samples, conduct laboratory soil tests, advise on the type of foundation, and draw up geological sections of the site. All these efforts will be aimed at finding dangerous places that will bring many problems in the future.

Many experts advise conducting geological research precisely at the time of site selection.

Also, before purchasing, you need to collect as much information as possible about the site. Chat with your neighbors. They are the ones who often tell a lot of necessary things. If the plot was already owned before you, cadastral data about it can be obtained from the administration.

• Close to garbage dumps
• Close to wastewater treatment plants
• Near the swampy area
• With the impossibility of access for construction equipment there
• Located far from social infrastructure

Project

The second step is preparing the project. You need to either download a ready-made one available on the Internet/purchase from a construction company, or contact specialists to develop an individual one together with them.

It is not recommended to design a house on your own, as well as planning the site of a country house. Due to the lack of necessary experience, you cannot predict all mistakes in advance. And it will be too late to redo something at the moment when the foundation is erected, part of the house is built. Any adjustments made to the project directly at the construction site will inevitably entail an increase in cost and time.

A standard project is convenient in that you can quickly begin construction, bypassing design work.

You must understand that the house is built to suit your living conditions. You must know exactly:

• How many rooms do you want
• Will there be a second floor?
• Number of permanent residents
• What will be located in the rooms
• What area should they be made of?
• What size should the kitchen and living room be?
• What budget do you have?
• Will you be able to make additional payments, etc., if necessary?

If, for example, you often invite guests, then it is better to make a spacious living room. If relatives come to you from time to time, then there must be a separate room for them, etc. You must also decide on the construction material, the shape of the house and roof, and the presence of additional buildings in the yard.

After taking into account all the features of your future residence, you need to contact a designer (you still need to find a good specialist). He will take into account all your requirements and wishes, your available budget, develop a project, and also make the necessary adjustments.

Linking the project to the area

If the site research was carried out immediately, all that remains is to carry out the full-size design of the house. This process is aimed at taking into account the influence of climatic factors, determining the most optimal position of the house on the site for comfortable living, and determining the boundaries of your territory.

Construction permit (approval)

Why build a house without coordinating the process with local governments? After all, they can demolish it later. Obtaining a building permit will help you avoid problems.

1. Get permission to build a house. To do this, prepare a package of necessary documents: a passport, documents confirming that you are the owner of the site, an application to the head of the administration in which you ask to give the go-ahead for construction, a copy of the house plan, a copy of the license of the company that developed the project for you. In each region of the country, the list of documents may differ, so visit your city administration and check all the details.
2. Receive a site inspection report. To do this, contact the geosurveillance department and provide them with a topographic survey plan, as well as an act of delineating the boundaries of the site and setting out the axes of the building. If you continue the construction of a house abandoned by the previous owner, you must provide documents for the land and a site plan
3. Prepare a construction passport for the facility. To do this, prepare the necessary documents again: passport, land title, site plan, application for a building permit, a notarized copy of the design company’s license, site survey report
4. Contact the sanitary-epidemiological and fire inspectorates to coordinate the development plan with them. Additionally, the energy and gas schemes must be coordinated with the fire inspectorate
5. After permission has been received, you need to contact the architectural committee, provide them with an agreed plan and obtain a construction passport

Haven't decided yet what type of house you will build? On our website you will find a lot of articles that will help you with your choice. If you have been thinking about building a Canadian house, then be sure to find out all the disadvantages of Canadian houses.

Or maybe you are choosing between a frame and timber house? Then this article will help you make your choice.

Choosing a construction company

Construction of a house

The construction of the house is carried out in five stages:

1. Excavation
2. Laying the foundation
3. Construction of walls and ceilings
4. Installation of roof truss system
5. Laying roofing material

Excavation work begins with leveling the area and digging a pit for pouring the foundation. Excavators and bulldozers are used for this purpose. The bottom of the pit is cleared manually. It is better to start pouring the foundation immediately after preparing the site. Otherwise, the earth may crumble, fill the bottom of the pit, and you will have to clear it again, wasting time and money.

The site is ready - it’s time to build the foundation. A layer of crushed stone, ten centimeters thick, is poured into the prepared pit, on top of which bitumen is poured. Next, formwork is made, a concrete foundation pad is laid, and reinforcing elements are installed.

Construction of foundation walls

When the concrete has hardened, construction of the foundation walls begins. Concrete blocks can be used for this purpose.

Construction of walls and ceilings

Immediately after laying the foundation, they begin to erect walls and install floors. This process is labor-intensive and we will look at it in a separate article.

The final stage of building a house is the installation of the roof truss system and laying of roofing material. When choosing a roofing material, you need to take into account issues such as rain noise and fire safety. If the choice falls in favor of installing ondulin, then during the rain you will be able to sleep peacefully. Many articles have been written about other roofing materials on the pages of our online resource.

One of the most airtight roofing materials is seam roofing. The coating is hermetic, since the sheet joints are fastened using the seam method, that is, without nails, screws and other devices.

And if you have already made a choice in favor of an onduvilla, then you should familiarize yourself with the rules and sequence of installation of an onduvilla in this article.

Or are you a supporter of tiles? Then we suggest reading the article about installing ceramic tiles here. But keep in mind that its installation is a complex process.

As you can see, before starting to build your own home, you need to solve a lot of problems, which you now know about.

Video about where to start building a house

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame house with your own hands

In our country, until recently, houses were mainly built from logs, brick or concrete, but now the time has come for new technologies, and frame houses have appeared in this segment. They are very popular due to their unique combination of high quality and low financial costs. But the main thing is the opportunity to make a durable frame house with your own hands without the use of special equipment. Therefore, we have made detailed step-by-step instructions for you.

The guide itself consists of 7 steps:

• choosing a location for a home;
• design;
• foundation installation;
• frame assembly;
• walling;
• thermal insulation;
• roofing.

The construction of a frame house has the main advantage over other technologies - the rapid pace of construction without the involvement of special lifting mechanisms. Inexpensive frames are put into operation in one season, but such speed in no way worsens the comfort and quality of living - these parameters are no worse than those of wooden and stone houses.

Choosing a location on the site

In accordance with the urban planning standards of the Russian Federation, your residential building must be located at a distance of at least 3 m from the official border of the site. Also, in most cases, local regulations regulate a 5-meter setback from the red line of the street to the house.

It should be taken into account that all frames belong to the IV and V degrees of fire resistance, therefore, in accordance with fire safety standards, the distance from your building to the house on the neighboring site must be at least 10 meters.

The remaining requirements for placing the house are presented in this image:

We are drawing up a project

According to the Federal Law, the developer is obliged to be guided by the project created by professional design organizations. The documentation drawn up must also be agreed upon by authorized officials of various services, where changes and/or additions may be made.

However, for your convenience and saving on rework, we recommend choosing a suitable standard project or creating an individual one, taking into account personal preferences and wishes. In both cases, it is necessary to mark out all communications and include engineering systems in the plan.

Example of a typical preliminary design

Please note that standard projects are traditionally cheaper, while individual ones allow you to realize your own ideas. Individual drawings from the design documentation are drawn up taking into account the reference to the topography and other features of the site - only such scrupulousness can guarantee the long-term operation of the home without problems and major repairs.

Engineering systems

To build a frame house, it is necessary to include all utility networks in the project. They are laid in strict sequence, and you need to start from the foundation. If a concrete base is used, all technological holes for communication systems must be made at the time of pouring, so that after hardening you do not have to deal with complex drilling of holes.

The electrical system consists of a distribution board, electrical wiring, outlets and grounding. The distance between points for sockets should be no more than 4 m. Sockets with covers are installed near water sources. The ventilation system includes air ducts with holes. Is it worth reminding that the ease of access and use of taps, switches, as well as the functioning of drains and sewerage drainage depends on the correct layout of pipes and wires?

Foundation installation

The construction technology involves the use of a shallow strip, column or block foundation. The strength of the base is increased with the help of reinforcement and monolithic piping. It is possible to make a high-quality foundation only after conducting a geological analysis of the soil.

In most cases, a simpler foundation is sufficient for a frame house, which can easily withstand light loads. The most appropriate are screw piles. Such a foundation does not require a large amount of materials, which reduces the cost of construction estimates by an average of 15-20%.

Options for installing a grillage on screw piles

In the case of a monolithic foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, compact the soil and pour a sand cushion. Before you start pouring concrete, you need to make formwork and install reinforcement bars. The solution must be compacted during the pouring process. Half a meter long vertical studs are placed in the liquid concrete of the base every 2 m - the lower frame frame will be attached to them. The surface of the resulting grillage must be leveled with cement mortar.

Bottom harness

Seven days after the work of pouring concrete, a lower frame made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 15x15 cm is laid over the entire surface of the foundation. The wood is pre-treated with antiseptic agents, and two layers of roofing material are laid along the bottom, which acts as horizontal waterproofing.

The timber can be fixed with anchor bolts or foundation studs. If bolts are used, then technological holes up to 10 cm deep must be drilled for them.

Scheme of the lower trim of the house

When all the wooden beams are laid and connected to each other and to the foundation, grooves are formed in them and floor joists are placed (board 50x150 mm). The upper part of the logs is aligned horizontally, and boards are nailed to the bottom - they will serve as the basis for constructing the subfloor. Membrane insulation is laid on the resulting board base (prevents the insulation from weathering and getting wet, and does not prevent water vapor from escaping outside). In the gaps between the joists, you need to press in insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam) and cover it with a vapor barrier. An edged board (40x15 mm) is laid on top.

Floor arrangement diagram

Creating a frame

From the very name of the technology it is clear that the main element of such a structure is the frame, and it is on it that the entire structure is supported. The frame consists of vertical posts fixed with crossbars and horizontal strapping. As before, here the entire construction process is carried out in stages.

Wood is used as a material. It is recommended to choose coniferous timber with a low degree of humidity, ideally kiln drying. The height of the racks must correspond to a similar parameter of the room. The racks are connected with nails 10 cm long. After adjusting the elements, there should be no gaps.

Depending on the load that will affect the load-bearing supports, as well as based on the size of the insulation and cladding material, the distance between the posts is planned. The universal section of the racks is 150x50 mm; double beams 150x50 mm are placed in the openings. The most popular pitch is 600 mm (allows you to install the insulation “in tension” to densely fill the wall). To connect the racks with the lower frame, temporary braces are used, which is why the structure acquires the necessary rigidity.

Layout of wall corners

The installation of the upper trim is carried out after installing all the racks. Fixation occurs using the same grooves that fastened the lower beam. The upper fastening to the racks is carried out with two nails, which must penetrate the material at least 10 cm. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by permanent bevels installed to replace the dismantled temporary ones. Read more about this in the article “Upper and lower harness“. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the structure of the most important components of a frame house.

We insulate the walls

The outer walls of the house are sheathed with imitation timber, wooden lining, plastic siding, as the owner of the house wishes. Insulation is best done using mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly, durable and does not burn, which makes frames even more profitable and in demand.

If you plan to live in the house all year round, choose thermal insulation with a thickness of 15 cm or more. For greater efficiency, fill a counter-lattice made of 50x50 mm timber (8) on top of the racks and place insulation (7) as a “second layer” - this way you will avoid possible cold bridges and make the house truly energy efficient. Read more about the construction of a wall pie, as well as about the general insulation of a frame house.

Scheme of proper insulation of frame walls

The material is pressed into all the cracks between the beams to remove voids. A hydro- and windproof membrane, which is attached over the insulation to the studs, will help protect the tree from moisture, and only then the slatted sheathing for the ventilated façade, which will be hidden under the outer cladding, is installed. On the inside, OSB or gypsum fiber boards mounted on top of a vapor barrier are suitable for wall cladding.

Constructing a ceiling

The ceiling is attached to the floor beams, which in turn are fixed with nails or steel brackets on the top frame beam. Where interior partitions are installed, you need to install support beams, in the place of which a wooden ceiling panel is nailed.

Attic floor insulation scheme

A vapor barrier film should be laid on top of the shield, and mineral wool or foam plastic should be laid flush with it. The insulation is covered with a windproof membrane on top, and boards are laid on top of it. Read more about insulating attic floors.

Roof

Before you start work, determine the degree of slope, the number of slopes, the type of roofing cladding, and the design of the rafter system.

Dependence of the roof slope on the material used

A roof with a complex shape looks attractive, but it is difficult to implement and therefore not cheap. Most often, there are gable structures that allow you to equip an attic or attic space. Here it is necessary to install only one ridge; there are no valleys at all, which eliminates the accumulation of sediments and leaks. To prevent snow from staying on the roof, plan a slope of more than 28º, but not more than 50º, otherwise the wind load will increase.

Design of a gable roof truss system

The upper trim acts as a Mauerlat here. Based on the manufactured sample, rafters are created for the entire roof, not forgetting about a pitch of 600 mm. The rafters on the ridge are installed on the pediment and the installation of the remaining elements continues along them. The type of roofing material determines what type of sheathing will be used.

Roofing material

The step-by-step instructions end at the stage of installing the roof cladding. You can choose soft tiles, corrugated sheets or metal tiles. All of these materials are easy to work with, affordable, and look decent. After the facing work, all that remains is to install drainpipes and a drainage system, which will be responsible for draining precipitation outside the site.

Now you can imagine the whole process of building a frame house with your own hands, so that the structure is durable and warm. If you do not ignore the rules of construction and assembly technology, you will become the happy owner of your own home, which you can only dream of.

Where to start building a house on a site - all stages, from foundation to roof

Building your own home is not an easy task, and it’s not for lack of significant savings. This is an objective reason.

Many people are stopped by the fact that they do not know where to start building a house on their site. The variety of types of work, costs, documents, time, the risk of making a mistake and its possible consequences are scary. Our goal is to provide information on how to step by step complete all stages of building a private house with your own hands. And the final decision remains yours.

Individual housing construction - what is it?

Where to start building a house on your site

Decoding the abbreviation individual housing construction- This is individual housing construction. Individual housing construction involves the construction of a residential building on a privately owned plot of land.

Individual housing construction objects are: residential building, extension, superstructure, garage and other permanent buildings. Those. those buildings the construction of which requires permission from local authorities and, in some cases, the consent of neighbors.

Land plot is a territory that has clearly defined boundaries. At the same time, the surface layer of the earth is also considered private property. The depth of the layer is not specified at the legislative level. But it is worth remembering that when you are going to dig a well, you are acting within the framework of your interests. If you plan to drill an artesian well, then you are encroaching on state property, which means that its drilling must be agreed upon and documented.

Plot for building a house

To start construction, you need to have a certain budget and land. If there is no plot, and the budget allows, you can buy it.

What you need to pay attention to when choosing a site to build a house:

• personal interests. First of all, set the direction for the search. Perhaps there are memories associated with a certain place, or you want a plot near the water, or in the forest, etc.;

• location. More in demand are plots located within the city or at a distance of 10-15 km from it;

• plot dimensions. Affect the scale of construction. In construction, the proportion is 1:10. That is, on a plot of 6 acres it would be appropriate to build a house of 60 square meters. Whether or not to follow this recommendation is up to the owner of the plot, but in the event of a sale it significantly increases the liquidity of the property;

• availability of infrastructure. Even if complete privacy is planned, it is desirable that there be several more buildings located on the development territory, a medical center, a store, a school, etc. This is especially important if the house is intended for a family with children and is planned for year-round living;

• proximity to transport. It is important for car owners to evaluate the quality of access roads and the presence/condition of asphalt pavement. So as not to end up in a situation where, in order to get home, you need to change your car to another one with a higher ground clearance. For those who do not have a car, proximity to public transport is desirable;

• availability of communications. Is it possible to connect to central heating, water supply, sewerage. Are power lines connected to the site? Owners of plots in newly created satellite villages often face this situation;

• state of ecology in the area. It may turn out that living here is fraught with negative consequences (proximity to hazardous production);

• soil type. The choice of foundation and the possibility of constructing a well depend on it. In practice, it may turn out that this soil is generally not suitable for the construction of heavy objects. That is, it is possible to build a summer house or a small dacha on it, but building a two-story house with an attic is unrealistic.

• market value of the plot. It is determined by all parameters together. The final price will depend on the owners of the site and your ability to bargain reasonably.

The situation with the site can develop according to two scenarios:

Firstly, permanent buildings may already be located on the site. A fairly common situation is the acquisition of a plot of land with an already built house. Now we are talking not about its restoration, but about demolition. The advantage of such a site is that the main communications are connected to it. In this case, in addition to the above parameters, you need to check the legality of communications.

Secondly, the site may not be developed. We will pay attention to this option.

Where to start building a house on an empty lot?

1. Decide on the style of the plot/house

The design will determine the appearance of the building, its location, choice of material, etc.

The size of the house depends on the number of people permanently living in it. The house can be made into several floors, thus it is possible to obtain sufficient space, but not at the expense of building up the site.

Independent construction of a country house will be easier, since there is no need, for example, for heating.

2. When to start building a house?

It is better to start construction work as soon as it gets warmer - i.e. in early spring. There will be six months of good weather at your disposal. In practice, the best time to start construction is late spring. More precisely, the period when the night temperature does not drop below +5°C. At this time of year, not only will the snow melt, but also the water will leave, interfering with digging a pit or making a foundation. In addition, in warm weather, labor productivity is much higher.

3. What material should the house be built from?

The choice will be influenced by: the period of operation of the house (for permanent residence or only in the summer), budget, environmental requirements, fashion, the ability to complete the work quickly with the involvement of specialists or with your own hands. Let's consider several options:

• building a brick house. A common material for construction. The undoubted advantage of a brick house is its time-tested service life;

• building a house from foam blocks. In terms of price/quality ratio, foam concrete occupies an advantageous position. A foam block made of durable cellular concrete, due to air bubbles, has good thermal conductivity and low weight;

• building a house from aerated concrete blocks. This material is durable, lightweight, has high thermal conductivity and breathability, and is easy to process. Construction with aerated concrete does not impose any special requirements on the construction of the foundation;

• construction of a house from wood concrete. It is practiced less frequently due to the high cost of the material. Arbolite blocks are a type of lightweight concrete, consisting of a mixture of cement and crushed wood (chips). Characterized by low water absorption and high thermal insulation properties;

• frame or modular construction. A special feature is the availability of modular designs. They are cheaper, and the work is completed in a short time. This structure is lightweight, so it does not require significant foundation costs;

• construction of a wooden house. In terms of cost and manufacturability of work, it belongs to the category of luxury construction:

  Do not forget that any building material has both advantages and disadvantages that need to be eliminated.

  What to build a permanent home from?

  How to build a house with your own hands? Simple instructions for beginners. Photo review of modern private house projects

  Many of us want to have our own home, which is located on a separate plot with a garden, play area or gazebo. However, not everyone can afford to build a house from scratch. To reduce the cost of construction, you can build a house yourself, with your own hands. Immediately before starting construction, you need to look at a photo of a private house in order to decide on the design of your future home.

  

  Brief contents of the article:

  Determining the dimensions of the future home

  Having decided to start construction, probably the first question that arose in your mind after making a decision was “how to build a private house yourself?” Fortunately, there are certain rules and construction steps that cannot be changed or removed.

  

  Having familiarized yourself with the projects of home-made houses, you can clearly understand what size your future home should be, how many rooms you want there to be and what they should be like.

  

  To reduce the cost of building construction, it is necessary to choose all sizes and layouts correctly. A few tips to ensure that the house is inexpensive, but at the same time built with high quality:

  • It is best that the outer contour is in the shape of a square. This means that the perimeter of the house will be minimal. Accordingly, the foundation for the length of the walls outside will also be of a minimum size.
  • Try to choose a layout so that all rooms are located in the minimum allowable area. Instructions on how to build a house can help you choose the most optimal layout.
  • Give preference to the layouts that are simplest and most useful for placing all the things you need.
  • If you haven’t yet decided on the number of floors in your house, think about it: a one-story house is much easier and cheaper to maintain than a multi-story house. In a two-story house, you will have to build an additional staircase and allocate space for it accordingly. There are options when an attic is built instead of an attic. Despite the savings in materials for the walls, this option increases the cost of building the roof.

  

  Foundation and savings on it

  We only see a small part of the house's foundation. In this regard, many people have a desire to save money even at the stage of foundation construction. Under no circumstances should this be done! This will be fraught with serious problems in the future.

  

  What is a foundation? This is the basis of your entire home, your home. If the foundation is built unreliably (namely, saving on materials or ignoring certain stages of construction), cracks may soon appear in the floor of the house, in the walls, shrinkage will be uneven, and the house may collapse over time. It will be impossible to correct these problems after construction is completed.

  Walls: configuration, choice of material

  In order to reduce the cost of construction, many choose the cheapest materials for building walls. It is worth noting here that you cannot choose cheap and low-quality materials. Analyze all available and affordable options and make a choice in favor of the most optimal one.

  

  In forest areas, the most optimal material in terms of price-quality ratio will be wood. In the steppe zone it is adobe. In places where there is a lot of natural stone, shell limestone is considered the cheapest material.

  

  If all the proposed options are not suitable, you can build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands. When choosing building materials for your home, do not forget to take into account their cost, delivery and installation in the estimate. Also be sure to take into account the speed of laying materials, lightness and simplicity.

  

  Frame house

  A house of this type can be built from 14 days to several months. The speed of construction directly depends on whether the owner of the home himself decided to build the house or whether a team of specialists is doing it. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, you can be sure that it will last more than 70 years (this is the service life of such buildings).

  

  After all the load-bearing structures have been installed, the next stage begins - covering the walls with finishing materials. You can install any type of facade cladding on the walls: block house, siding, cassette panels. When sheathed with additional materials, the structure gains greater strength. The weight does not increase much.

  

  Necessary communications

  Necessary communications include: water supply, heating, electricity. You can use a gas boiler to heat your house. Thanks to it, in winter you can significantly reduce the cost of heating your home.

  

  If funds allow, you can make a heated floor immediately during construction (we all know that heat goes from bottom to top) - install plastic pipes into the floor, and fill it with concrete screed on top. This way you can heat the whole house. An alternative to such a warm floor can be solar energy, which will not allow you to freeze even on cold winter evenings.

  The sewer system must be laid before finishing and pouring the floor. It is also necessary to lay a water supply system before completing this work. It is necessary to designate in advance where the rooms and household appliances that require drainage will be located. All pipes must be laid according to the stated diagrams.

  

  If you do not have access to a central system, you can dig a well or borehole. Unfortunately, these are not very cheap options.

  

  Arrangement of the floor and roof of the building

  As soon as all work on installing the necessary communications is completed, you can begin pouring the floor with a concrete screed. The floor can be covered with any material. Ideal for this are: laminate, linoleum, tiles and others. Tile is one of the most practical and sustainable materials.

  

  Once the walls are up, the floor is in place, the roof can be built. If you decide to build a two-story house, use concrete slabs as the floor. The first stage of roof construction will be the installation of a facing grid (beams are used for this).

  

  Next, you should cover them with one of the following materials - slate, metal tiles, corrugated sheets or ondulin. Regardless of which material you choose, the roof must be insulated using glass wool (the cheapest and most accessible material).

  

  

  

  

  We hope you understand how to quickly build a house with your own hands and not spend a lot of money.

  Building a house with your own hands

  Welcome to the construction portal, dear guests!

  Building your own home is a complex process, which is often only possible for professional builders, but since you are on this resource, it means you were not afraid of difficulties, or maybe you just decided to prove to yourself and others that you are a real man who must do 3 things one of which is to build your own house (And with the help of our website you can also build a bathhouse :)). We fully support you in this choice, and we want to say that in most cases, the construction of houses is carried out by contractors who can hardly explain why and why they are doing this or that thing, often their work comes down to only physical effort for which they they get very good money. That is why we believe that even if such people can build a dacha, then why are we ourselves afraid to start building a house from scratch?

  

  So, here is a large encyclopedia that will allow you not to move from one information resource to another in search of information on the construction or design of a country house, just the opposite - our site is structured in such a way that you can always find a comprehensive answer to your question, We tried to describe each category as broadly as possible, which we hope will help you achieve your goal. Our portal is filled with professional builders who share their own experience, and we act as a kind of storehouse of knowledge that is structured in one place and this place is the site - StroyVopros.net, we advise you to remember our address, because now this site will be your guide to school modern country house construction.

  Where to start building a house?

  This is the question every future owner asks when he begins construction of his mansion; construction, of course, first of all begins with the site for the future home. First, choose a location for the building, once you have decided on the location and you like it, go around the neighbors in the area, ask if there are any problems with groundwater, namely the level of its level or contamination - this is done in order to find out whether to make a well or You may still have to drill a well on the site, and this is a completely different cost. In addition, ask what the situation is in the area, whether there is crime or rowdy neighbors, etc.

  Now let's move on directly to the stages of building a house.

  The first thing you need to do is to draw up an approximate project of a house, let’s say right away that in order to draw up a project of a house/dacha you don’t need to be a professional architect, but you also shouldn’t create a project “on your knees” in 1 hour, the best option would be to order standard projects houses. A project for a standard house can be purchased for a small amount from design companies, but if you are planning to make an exclusive house (a unique structure), then you will either have to pay design companies about $50 per sq.m. or draw up a project yourself. Is it really impossible to do without a project? Yes!. You can build a house without a project, but please note that when building a house “by eye” you will not be able to take into account even approximate construction costs and may not be able to cope with the construction budget, in addition to incorrectly distributed loads, or loads not prepared in accordance with standards, for example on the foundation, the entire structure can go awry and you will have to overpay for the alteration much more.

  

  In addition, do not forget that a copy of the project will need to be submitted along with the application for a building permit. In conclusion, it is worth noting that the house project consists of several sections - these are:

  1. Engineering part, which includes: Electrical, Sewerage, Water supply and heating.
  2. Architectural part - this includes drawings and dimensions of structures.

  Once the project is ready we move on. Now we need to equip our site: first, we will put a construction trailer on the territory - it is necessary so that during the first stages of construction there will be a place to change clothes, as well as where to hide expensive tools from the rain and uninvited guests, and also to cheer up with a warm cup of tea when you are tired.

  

  The next step in the construction journey is the construction of a fence. A fence is a very functional thing; firstly, it will protect the initial construction from uninvited guests, as well as from animals that will wander onto your site every now and then. A slab fence is a very quick and convenient solution that will provide an indispensable service at first; we also recommend reading about a picket fence, and, of course, the now popular fence made of corrugated sheets.

  

  The site is equipped with the exception of a toilet, do not forget about it, because this place is quite visited. We can talk about the toilet in the country for quite a long time, but one thing is for sure, do not make a toilet in a hurry! Make a good cesspool for the toilet; if you have free time, immediately connect it to a septic tank (for example, with a septic tank made of concrete rings), then you won’t have to redo the sewerage structure several times.

  

  So we've sorted out the preparations for construction. Now let's start building the house:

  At the initial stage, we will need to lay the foundation. The foundation is laid based on the type of structure, soil freezing in the region, as well as the structure of the house. Of course, first you need to decide on its type and design, let's give them a brief description:

  1. Brick foundation - A displaced technology, but which is still suitable for light houses, greenhouses, gazebos, verandas or bathhouses.
  2. Pile-strip foundation - A technology that is perfect for weak and heaving soils.
  3. Monolithic foundation - A technology that is used mainly for the construction of houses of non-standard construction; such foundations have high qualities of reliability and durability, but require high costs.
  4. Shallow foundation - A widely used technology that allows you to save on construction, but at the same time has good durable qualities.
  5. Foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes - mainly used for light frame houses, greenhouses, etc. This foundation laying technology is also often used in areas prone to flooding, since this type of foundation is not susceptible to the influence of groundwater.
  6. Strip foundation is a type of structure that is used to build houses and cottages. A strip foundation is often cheaper than a solid structure.
  7. Floating (slab) foundation - a foundation that is used on floating, heaving, peat, swamp soils prone to constant movement. This type of foundation is laid on a bulk cushion and mixes with the movement of the soil; it does not go deep to the freezing height, which allows it to maintain its integrity.
  8. A bored foundation is a foundation that, like a pile foundation, is used mainly in areas with a large amount of groundwater and on floating soils.

  

  After choosing the type and reinforcement of the foundation is completed, by the way, carefully select the appropriate concrete for pouring the foundation. Next, we insulate the foundation from the outside and inside in order to retain heat inside the house and not spend money on heating it.

  The next stage is the lower framing of the frame house, and the construction of walls. As for the walls, decide what the house will consist of: brick or cinder blocks, or maybe wood or expanded clay blocks, by the way, speaking about the construction of walls, it has often become fashionable in our time to use wood concrete blocks are a sample of a material that is made from sawdust, cement and special admixtures that retain heat well and are fireproof.

  After the walls have been erected, there comes a time when the roof is erected; first you need to make an armored belt for the Mauerlat, then organize the roof rafter system, decide on its constituent elements and select the type of roof:

  1. Shed roof;
  2. Gable roof;
  3. Trekhskaya Roof and others;

  

  The roof is sheathed with any available materials; of course, we do not advise you to decorate it with straw because it is now popular:

  1. Soft tiles are an excellent material with low cost and excellent quality.
  2. Ondulin roofing is a material otherwise called Euroslate, but unlike slate it has less weight and a more beautiful shape.
  3. Slate is a classic roofing material.

  Before you start covering the roof with cladding material, of course you need to make a lathing.

  So, we’ve also sorted out the roof, now we need to start making a porch, inserting windows and other relevant procedures that are included in the scope of the design structures. Speaking about the construction of a porch, we will tell you how to do it:

  

  After the main stages associated with construction, we will now gradually move on to the exterior (exterior) decoration of the country house. First, we will install the sheathing under the siding, then we will install vinyl siding or metal siding under wood. After insulating the foundation, it is also advisable to finish it with siding or thermal panels with clinker tiles - this will at the same time insulate and give a beautiful look to your home.

  

  Well, in general terms the house has been built, now let's move on to the sewerage and drainage system.

  Water supply on the site is a very important thing, along with electricity. But if everything is clear about the electrical wiring in a wooden house, then as for the water supply, this is still a question, of course, the water supply can be made from a well, but here you need to know about the level of groundwater, but how can we find out about it, we are not geologists? The answer is simple - ask your neighbors and find out whether they make wells or still drill wells. The difference is often very significant and manifests itself in the cost of the work, so read our section about building a well and a well, there you will find answers to the questions: when is it better to dig a well?, why is a well better than a well, and much more.

  Now about the sewerage: First of all, we will need to make a sewerage system. It is made either as a drain to a cesspool or to a drainage pit. In general, speaking about sewerage, as such, it is better to design it according to standards, that is, not to use drainage pits, as this can undermine the ecological situation on the site and pollute the water for you and your neighbors. It is advisable to make a sewer when using a cesspool, but then you will often have to call a sewer truck, and the best way to build a sewer is to connect all plumbing units to a septic tank, and then drain the filtered water into aeration fields.

  

  Speaking about the use of septic tanks, they can be divided into several types; let’s decide for yourself which one to choose:

  1. A septic tank made of concrete rings is a type of septic tank that is created with one’s own hands; the operation of the device is based on concrete rings in which, with the help of bacteria, wastewater is gradually processed and in the final stage is purified and finally filtered in groundwater.
  2. Septic tank Astra is a septic tank from the manufacturer, characterized by compactness and relatively simple installation.
  3. A septic tank made from Eurocubes with your own hands is characterized by simple installation (when compared with a septic tank made of concrete rings), as well as low cost.
  4. Septic tank TANK is a domestically produced septic tank whose main purpose is high-quality waste processing.
  5. The TRITON septic tank is another example of Russian production.
  6. And if you still decide to install a septic tank, then read about the Topas septic tank and its characteristics.