home > Filters > How to make ventilation in a private two-story house. Ventilation in a private house - natural or forced? Video: installation of a supply ventilator for private housing

How to make ventilation in a private two-story house. Ventilation in a private house - natural or forced? Video: installation of a supply ventilator for private housing

Even at the stage of designing a house, you need to think about fresh air in the premises. Moreover, it may be that self-designed ventilation will work no worse than professionally designed one. Perhaps the solution will not be so elegant - the main thing is that it is workable.

Definition and severity of the problem

Ventilation refers to the specially organized movement of air masses. It is necessary to create comfortable and healthy living conditions for humans. In general, the system is very difficult to calculate. There are simply no standard solutions that suit everyone or at least some group of users. Each project is individual. Even the location of one grille or fan plays a role. A lot depends on the position of the house relative to the wind rose and many other little things. For self-designed ventilation to work well, you need to seriously understand.

Ventilation is an organized exchange of air masses, during which exhaust air is replaced with fresh air

So you understand how serious this is

According to sanitary standards, one person at rest processes about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. If the air is not renewed, oxygen becomes less and less, carbon dioxide and other waste products become more and more. As the amount of oxygen decreases, your health worsens. Prolonged lack of oxygen provokes the development of diseases.

A few numbers, physiologists, reflecting the influence of the level of carbon dioxide CO2 on the human condition:

Physiologists consider the carbon dioxide content in the air at 1400 ppm to be the lowest point for relatively normal human functioning. All indicators with a large amount of carbon dioxide are already beyond the bounds.

A good example

To assess the severity of the situation without ventilation, we present a graph of CO2 levels. It was filmed as an experiment. To assess how necessary ventilation is in a modern house/apartment with plastic windows and thermal insulation measures taken.

Experimental conditions. Bedroom 13 square meters (37 cubic meters), one person and one medium-sized dog. The house has exhaust ventilation, a riser in the kitchen and in the boiler room. An exhaust fan is installed in the boiler room, which runs on a timer half the night and half the day. There is no air supply, fresh air is available through windows that have ventilation and micro-ventilation functions.

Information to explain the graph:

Point 1. From 20 o'clock - work at the computer, doors slightly open, window closed.
Point 2. The window was opened, the doors were slightly open, everyone left the room.
Between 1-2 they returned to the room, closed the window, then opened it. All this can be tracked by fluctuations in CO2 levels.
Point 3. At 3:35 the doors and windows are closed, the man and the dog are sleeping.
Point 4. 9-20 am, the man woke up. The CO2 level is 2600 ppm, which is significantly below the extreme norm. The window was opened, and the carbon dioxide level returned to normal in less than an hour (Point 5).

As you can see from the graph, most of the night passes with very high concentrations of carbon dioxide. This may be the cause of fatigue and poor health in the morning. In general, everything is clear. If you wish, you can conduct a similar experiment yourself. All you need is a weather station with the ability to measure carbon dioxide levels (with memory). Looking at the results of the experiment, the importance of the ventilation system is difficult to overestimate. Let's figure out how it works.

The principle of operation of ventilation of a house and apartment

All ventilation systems are divided into two types - with natural air movement and with forced one.

Air always moves from a zone of higher pressure to a zone of lower pressure. This property is used in natural ventilation systems. The higher pressure area is usually located in the apartment/house. If there are ventilation ducts/openings, air from the premises should tend to flow outside. But a new one must take the place of the “departed” one, otherwise the movement will stop. That is why for the normal operation of the ventilation system, both an outflow of exhaust air and an influx of fresh air are necessary. And this is worth taking care of. Only then will ventilation - whether made/developed by yourself or not - work effectively.

Keep in mind that “breathing” walls have nothing to do with air exchange. At best, they help regulate humidity. But only. Likewise, a regular air conditioner does not add oxygen. It only maintains the specified parameters of the existing air. It only removes excess moisture and has nothing to do with air exchange. Air inflow must be ensured in the same way as outflow, using windows (not the most effective way) or special devices.

Inflow problems

It would seem that there is nothing simpler - make a hole in the wall - here you have an influx of oxygen. This may be true somewhere, but not in our climate, when most of the year the temperature outside is far from comfortable. What's wrong? A number of unpleasant moments:

As you can see, a “simple” hole in the wall becomes a very complex device. Moreover, little from this list can be neglected. Existence will be too uncomfortable.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in an apartment building is a large pipe that runs through all floors and goes out to the roof. All apartments “in the riser” are connected to it. Under normal conditions, due to the difference in pressure in the apartment and on the roof, a “draft” is formed, which draws air from the premises (it also works when there is an inflow).

This is how you can organize exhaust ventilation in a house or apartment. You just need to take into account that the channel must “pull” the entire required volume of air

In apartment buildings, risers are usually located in the kitchen and/or bathroom. All other rooms are ventilated through these hoods. For normal air exchange in the bathroom and kitchen doors, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps (under the door or make flow holes in the wall) or install grilles.

In a private house, everything is organized in approximately the same way: a main ventilation duct is installed in the kitchen or bathroom, which is led to the roof. There is no point in finishing it in the attic. Even if the attic is cold and ventilated. When there is a difference in temperature and high humidity in the removed air, a large amount of condensation is formed. Even with good ventilation in the attic, it does not have time to escape, the ceiling gets wet, and the walls become damp. In general, this is a bad idea.

Air duct material

A few words about the material from which the exhaust ventilation duct in a private house is made. Most often, galvanized pipes are used, and they are of round cross-section. Their resistance to air flow is minimal. They take second place in popularity. There are more problems with them - they accumulate static, which contributes to the accumulation of dust, and are less resistant to fire. The advantages include simpler installation, the presence of ready-made shaped elements, with the help of which it is easy to create any system. In the case of these materials, the choice is yours - use what you like best.

What you shouldn’t do is remove the exhaust duct from the brick. Firstly, it is expensive (you also need a foundation for it), and secondly, it is the most problematic to use, since it has uneven walls, which contributes to the accumulation of dust. Condensation accumulates in brick walls that are not covered with a metal sleeve, causing the brick to quickly collapse. In general, brick exhaust ducts are a thing of the past.

Additional devices

What else may be needed in an exhaust system are check valves. They prevent the air from moving in the opposite direction, which occurs when the draft is overturned.” When the pressure in the apartment/house becomes lower than outside. Also, check valves prevent the spread of odors from the kitchen/toilet to other rooms connected to the duct.

Check valves - a simple device

In general, the design of the exhaust system is simpler. But only if the cross-section of the ventilation duct is correctly calculated, the route is correctly drawn up and installation is carried out correctly.

Natural or forced

There are two types of ventilation - natural and forced. What's better? It's difficult to say for sure. Everyone decides for themselves, taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of both types.

Natural ventilation in a house works due to the difference in pressure indoors and outdoors (due to the existence of that very “natural draft”). Its advantages are noiselessness and independence from electricity. Disadvantages - low productivity due to which large cross-section pipes are required, inability to control/regulate the intensity of work, dependence on the state of the external environment. In summer, natural ventilation often does not work, and sometimes it works in the opposite direction. This is when hot air is “pulled” into the room through the exhaust ventilation duct.

Forced ventilation in a private house - install fans of a suitable type

In forced ventilation, air movement is provided by fans. It can be adjustable and works in any weather, but only if there is electricity and working fans. And this is a minus. Even two. The first is energy dependence, the second is the noise that fans make during operation. Therefore, many people prefer to use plastic air ducts in forced ventilation systems. Precisely because they are “quiet”.

Ventilation schemes for private houses and apartments

The simplest option is implemented in small houses and apartments. Supply openings are located in living rooms, hoods - in the kitchen and bathroom. The air entering the premises penetrates through the cracks under the doors into the kitchen and bathroom, where it is exhausted. This scheme works for an area of no more than 100 square meters.

When the supply ventilation is separate devices in each room, the exhaust is through the kitchen or bathroom

In houses with a total area of more than one hundred and fifty square meters, two separate systems are organized - supply and exhaust. Each of them has its own air duct system. With this arrangement, each room has exhaust and supply openings in each room. In this case, adjusting the intensity of air inflow and outflow is possible in each room - you can adjust the atmosphere to the requirements of its inhabitants.

With a centralized supply ventilation system, it is easier to prepare the air taken from the street - you can create a unified cleaning and heating system. The prepared air can now be distributed throughout the premises. In this case, each room has two ventilation openings - one supply, one exhaust. They are located in opposite corners and covered with grilles or diffusers.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house can be organized in this way: the supply is decentralized, the exhaust is centralized

Even with a large area of the house, the supply ventilation system can be made decentralized, as in the first scheme. With the correct selection of equipment, it will work no less efficiently. The question is which will be more economically profitable, since the problem of air preparation for each supply channel will have to be solved. And the equipment is not cheap at all.

DIY ventilation: action plan

To design a ventilation system yourself, you will have to perform a number of actions. It's easier if the sequence is known.

Preparatory work

Collecting information and basic calculations - this is where the independent creation of a ventilation project begins.

Preliminary data is ready. Take some time to think about where and what devices should be located.

Parameter calculations and detailing

When all the issues regarding the scheme have been resolved, it has taken its final form, we proceed to detailing. First, there are also calculations, then you have to look for the components of the system, decide which company to use the equipment and reduce the budget.

Installation and configuration

“All that remains” is to find, buy, install. Little has been written, but it will take a lot of effort, time, and nerves to implement this point. Only after this can we say that the DIY ventilation is completely ready.

But that’s not all. Self-made ventilation must be started and adjusted. This is also not the easiest process to achieve coordinated operation of the system as a whole. Then, during operation, reconfiguration has to be done frequently. When the season changes, the number of residents changes, weather conditions change. In general, adjusting the ventilation system is another responsibility of the home owner.

By the way, we advise you to think about it. Do-it-yourself ventilation (meaning installation) will cost less, but it requires more knowledge and time. Knowledge can be gained, but if there is a lack of time, you will have to look for and hire performers, then accept their work.

Hood in a private house: laws and patterns

The quality of air in a house quite quickly affects the quality of life in it - sleep, health and even the mood of residents directly depend on air exchange. Installing a hood in a private house with your own efforts is often done with problems due to lack of knowledge or skills, so before you start arranging it, you should understand the theory.

How to properly install a hood in a private house?

First of all, you need to remember that in this case we are not talking about one exhaust hole, but about an exhaust system. In a private house, it is necessary to provide three types of rooms with hoods:

non-residential office premises,
non-residential auxiliary premises,
living rooms.

Ventilation in a wooden house in service areas is directly related to fire safety. Such exhaust ventilation in a private house is installed in the boiler room or gas room, above the gas stove in the kitchen, as well as in all rooms where there is an open fire - for example, in the fireplace room. Exhaust hood in auxiliary rooms, which include basements, cellars and bathrooms, is primarily responsible for normalizing the humidity in these rooms and is necessary for protection from. The latter, in turn, can cause significant damage to property and is also unsafe for the person himself.
Exhaust ventilation in living rooms is arranged primarily for the comfort of residents. Its task is to ensure complete air exchange in the house. In case of errors in the installation of a hood in a private house with your own hands, living quarters are the least critical - here the shortcomings can be compensated for by ventilation.

Hood in the basement

Basements are classified as auxiliary rooms and, due to their location, are also prone to high humidity, and therefore the appearance of fungi. In the basement, such “neighbors” are extremely undesirable, since they can affect not only everything that is in the room, but also the well-being of the residents of the house. Also, poor exhaust hood contributes to the appearance in the basement, which gradually rises into the house.

How to make a hood in the basement of a private house? First of all, you should focus on the depth and size of the basement. With a small basement depth and modest size, you can limit yourself to vents in the foundation, which should be covered with protective grilles. If the basement is deeper than 2 meters and wide, it is best to take care of a full hood. The exhaust system in the basement of a private house is arranged with your own hands as follows:

It is necessary to lay two air ducts - one for air supply, the other for air outlet, and the opening of the supply duct must be located below the exhaust duct.
For optimal air circulation, the hood should be located in the corner of the basement opposite from the inflow.
Both ducts must have access to the roof. The exhaust duct can be located next to the chimney.
Do not forget to insulate the channels to prevent condensation.

For better exhaust ventilation in the basement of a private house, you can equip the ducts with a fan for forced exhaust and increase the air flow. Exhaust fans will also correct the situation if it is not possible to make high channels for air exhaust and create natural draft.

If you create general exhaust ventilation in a private house with your own hands, the basement exhaust air ducts can be routed into a common ventilation shaft.

Drain hood: olfactory comfort

If the house has an autonomous sewer system, you should think about separate ventilation for it. In this case, the main task of exhaust ventilation is to remove them in a timely manner and prevent them from entering the house. The simplest option for exhaust air removal in this case is to place an additional pipe, similar to a sewer pipe, at the sewer outlet and lead it under the roof. Thus, polluted air will be removed in a timely manner, bypassing residential premises.

For efficient operation of the hood in the sewer, it is necessary to ensure complete tightness of all parts of the sewer to prevent unplanned movements of air flow.

Gas hood: a safe solution

We all remember from our school physics course that combustion requires oxygen. That is why the ventilation system of a gas room is most important: both the warmth of the house and the safety of the boiler room depend on it. In addition, all combustion products - carbon monoxide, smoke and others - are collected in the gas boiler room, and saving on exhaust in the boiler room can result in huge damage or even cost lives.

High-quality exhaust ventilation in a private house promptly removes combustion products and excess heat, so there are more requirements for its design than for any other.

A separate air supply channel to the oven is needed for uniform combustion. For a closed boiler chamber, a coaxial duct is suitable; for an open chamber, a regular ventilation pipe is suitable.
The boiler room exhaust system must be sealed to avoid carbon monoxide leaks.
The air exhaust duct itself must be equipped with a fan with a check valve - this ensures forced air outflow and prevents carbon monoxide from returning to the room.
One chimney should not serve more than two installations, such as boilers. Therefore, if there are several columns, it is worth considering a separate hood for a gas boiler.
The seams of chimneys must also be sealed, especially in the part adjacent to the living quarters, which is especially important in multi-storey buildings. In this case, the sealant must be fire-resistant, and fire-resistant gaskets should be installed in places where the pipes exit outside.
Pipes must also be fire-resistant, so metal, stainless steel, or asbestos pipes are most often used for chimneys. The upper part above the attic space can be constructed with ceramic materials or brickwork.
The diameter of the hood in the boiler room must be at least 15 cm.

In addition, windows or other supply channels must be provided in the boiler room for constant ventilation - this promotes normal air circulation and ensures a comfortable stay in the gas room. For greater safety, you can install temperature and carbon monoxide sensors in the boiler room and monitor their readings.

The secret dream of many of our compatriots is a beautiful country house. Professionals know that at the design stage it is necessary to provide for every little detail, especially communication solutions for the future building. And few people know how to make ventilation in a private house in such a way that it is comfortable to live in at any time of the year.

A well-organized system for the influx and removal of air masses in a living space can provide:

additional protection of premises from fungal and mold spores, dampness;
circulation of oxygen in each room;
comfortable conditions for work and relaxation at home.

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Which rooms require ventilation?

Without access to clean air, the human body is unable to function normally. In a residential building, it is necessary to ensure the flow of oxygen primarily in the nursery, bedroom and living room. Don't neglect the kitchen and bathroom. These small rooms often contain a high concentration of humidity, as well as characteristic odors (most of them not very pleasant), which require release to the external environment.

note! A properly implemented ventilation device in a private home will eliminate the likelihood of dirt, accumulation of dust, condensation, stuffiness, and will also prevent mold and harmful microorganisms from spreading throughout the home..

Features of the implementation of the air exchange system

Traditionally, experts distinguish two types of implementation of air exchange systems in residential buildings:

natural;
mechanical (forced);
mixed (the first type is supplemented with a forced exhaust device).

From the technical side of the issue, home ventilation systems are classified into the following categories:

functional purpose;
method of moving air masses (ducted, ductless);
device that moves air.

But how not to make a mistake in choosing? What kind of cottage ventilation provides comfortable conditions for those who live in it? Note that each option has both obvious “pros” and obvious “cons”. To better understand the problems of the issue, we should dwell on them in more detail.

Natural ventilation of a residential building is determined by the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. The entire process is based on physical laws and does not require human intervention. Its essence is as follows:

1. Since the air temperature indoors is higher than outside, the air becomes light. Due to this, it moves through the ventilation duct to the street.
2. A partially rarefied mass is formed inside the room, facilitating the influx of fresh oxygen through small openings located in the structure of the object.
3. The received masses are heavier in structure. They are located in the lower part of the premises, which is why floor ventilation in a private house is so important and is an integral part of the air exchange system.

note! As the temperature rises, the exchange through the wall occurs faster, especially if it is supplemented by wind.

Modern residential buildings are practically devoid of cracks and small holes, so natural ones, as a rule, do not work in a private house. Inflow is possible exclusively through small valves built into walls and windows.

System advantages:

No emergency situations. Structural simplicity eliminates the slightest breakdowns or malfunctions.
Economical. Ventilation in a country house is carried out automatically; additional equipment (and with it financial costs) is not required.
Flexibility. The device can be easily complemented with air conditioning and filtration solutions.
Silence.

Natural ventilation in a private house

The natural ventilation system of a private house is not able to provide a forced flow of air, which greatly increases the risk of the formation of fungi, mold, and unpleasant odors. Such “neighbors” not only destroy the building, but also harm people’s health. It is not surprising that in the 21st century they are practically not used. Forced ventilation of the cottage is much more effective.

Forced ventilation system

Photo of forced ventilation

A mechanical system through which air masses are set in motion artificially - through injection devices (compressors, pumps, fans). Such ventilation in a cottage is much preferable. Forced air exchange has the following advantages:

1. Oxygen can be pre-humidified and heated, thereby creating a comfortable environment.
2. The ventilation of a country house is autonomous and does not depend in any way on the environment.

As for the shortcomings, they are obvious:

To organize such a system, additional equipment is required, implementation at the design stage, and electricity costs;
regular maintenance during operation.

Mechanical ventilation in a private house can be implemented using several methods. Experts distinguish the following types:

exhaust - “old” air is removed from the room using appropriate mechanical solutions;
supply air - a private house is saturated with air from the street forcibly;
supply and exhaust - supply and removal of air masses is carried out mechanically.

Ventilation of a private house. Forced ventilation (general overview).

If we are talking about a fairly large brick house or cottage, it is advisable to choose a mixed type option. Its main advantage is the excellent combination of forced and natural systems.

Proper organization of ventilation in suburban housing

So, how to properly make ventilation in a house and is it possible to carry out all the activities yourself? Proper organization of the air exchange process will improve the microclimate in the living space, as well as maintain the integrity of all structures. Regardless of the room, do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a private house is carried out in several stages:

determine the volume of clean air required to ensure compliance with accepted sanitary standards;
calculate the diameter and cross-sectional size for the air duct system - this value will determine the atmosphere in the living space;
choose the optimal ventilation scheme in a private house (carefully weighing all the advantages and disadvantages of each of them);
prepare a plan diagram for air channels (a competent approach will ensure effective operation);
determine where ventilation will be installed in a private house;
the next step is to install zones for the influx and removal of air masses;
build the system itself for multi-apartment living space.

Deciding on the optimal system

Photo of a typical project

Professionals emphasize that in a private home it is customary to start at the stage of preparing documentation for future housing. A qualitative criterion for any modern project is the presence of all communications necessary for a comfortable life for people. And in this context, the presence of fresh air is an important component of harmonizing the surrounding space.

note! Not only the ventilation itself in the house is important, but also the speed of movement of the oxygen itself.

Many cottage owners do not perform any preliminary calculations, but equip their homes with powerful mechanical systems. In this case, fans can forcefully cool the interior space. Experts emphasize that exhaust hood in a private home should be natural if there is no need for additional air exchange. Due to its natural nature, it guarantees a natural humidity regime for everyone within the living space.

Proper ventilation in a private house is created with your own hands based on a given norm of volumetric air velocity. If we are talking about a mechanical solution, the corresponding value can vary from 3 to 5 m 3 /hour. The natural system provides a flow rate of up to 1 m 3 /hour. The difficulty is that if the housing has basements, then a compulsory system cannot be avoided.

note ! To pass 300 m 3 /hour of fresh air, you will need a channel with dimensions of 250x400 mm, which corresponds to the standard d 350 mm. However, if you equip a mechanical system, you can stop at a channel of 160x200 mm or d 200 mm.

The video below provides information on how the ventilation system in a country house works:

Ventilation in a private house: calculated data

Ventilation of a private house is based on careful calculations. The determining factors for this approach are:

object area;
number of permanent residents;
volume of air in each room.

Advice! Professionals strongly recommend taking into account all household appliances and technical equipment operating in living rooms, since they actively absorb clean air.

Installation of ventilation in a cottage is possible only if all the listed factors are taken into account. For proper calculations, you should use special tabular data and diagrams. The easiest way to equip a hood in a private house with your own hands is to carry out calculations by taking into account the area of a specific object.

This method is most often used for residential properties. In accordance with the standards for such premises, each “square” must have at least 3 m 3 /hour of clean air, and this does not take into account people. To calculate this value, it is necessary to calculate the air norm per area of the object.

Example ! How to make a hood in a private house with an area of 90 square meters? The air exchange rate value is set using the following formula: 90x3 = 270 m 3 /hour. This will be enough for living space.

Ventilation duct and its cross-section

Having calculated the optimal level of oxygen exchange, they select the best ventilation scheme in a private house to implement with their own hands, and count the ventilation ducts. Regardless of where such a system is planned to be installed, in the underground or in the ceiling area, there are only 2 types of air ducts with a rigid structure - round and rectangular.

Ensure an average air exchange rate of 5 m/s, if we talk about branches - no more than 3 m/s. In a natural system, the indicated value does not exceed 1 m/s.

You can read about the pros and cons of plastic pipes for ventilation in the article: Plastic pipes for ventilation

To organize effective ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to decide on the optimal cross-section of the channel. To do this, use a special diagram that takes into account the flow of air masses and the speed of their passage. Before making ventilation in the house or carrying out installation activities, please note that the standard value of air exchange is 360 m 3 / hour for forced-type systems. Therefore, the optimal value for air ducts will be d200 mm or 160 x 200 mm.

Rectangular plastic air ducts in the video below

Ventilation in the house, plastic air ducts - installation and assembly

When thinking about how to ventilate a house, many of our compatriots forget that their homes have metal-plastic windows, whose design is absolutely airtight. In this case, care should be taken to ensure that the frame of metal-plastic solutions contains supply valves, through which air masses flow into the interior space.

note! If there is no hole in the windows, you can make one in the wall. We are talking about a standard pipe having a round shape, which is placed in the hole made. On both sides it is covered with protective metal grilles with a small cross-section.

Ventilation of the basement of a private house is carried out in a similar way. It is enough to follow simple recommendations and creating a favorable microclimate within the living space will not be difficult. In such a room, every person will feel as comfortable as possible.

Takes ~4 minutes to read

In order for a private house to receive an influx of fresh air, as well as remove already polluted air, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.

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Natural ventilation

At the design stage of a house, a natural ventilation scheme must be drawn up. The principle of its operation is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of the air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the exhaust of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet space is called wet.

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You can ventilate your house in four ways:

channel, when the house is equipped with vertically located channels.
ductless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through air ducts.
periodic, when “new” air enters at certain intervals.

To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are installed on the exhaust ducts, which can operate either continuously or at set times. Accordingly, such equipment requires a connection to the power supply network.

Advantages

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It does not require the installation of expensive equipment, and system breakdowns are automatically eliminated. But even with fans installed on the exhaust ducts, the circulation system naturally consumes electricity in small quantities. Consequently, money is saved. Another advantage of the system is its compatibility with other types of air exchange.

Flaws

This type of ventilation in a wooden house directly depends on weather conditions, which directly affects the ventilation of the building. As a rule, insufficient supply of fresh air manifests itself in the form of fungus, as well as the accumulation of toxic substances that can come from building materials. Thus, it, not combined with other systems, will not always be able to ensure proper air exchange in the house.

Forced exhaust

Since the dependence of natural ventilation on external climatic conditions does not allow the premises to be fully ventilated, the installation of additional equipment is necessary to ensure air circulation in a private home. Air exchange carried out using special installed devices, as well as components for them, is called forced ventilation.

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According to the principle of operation, it is divided into:

supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Another variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then, already purified, is returned to the room;
supply air with the possibility of heating. To operate the system according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust but already heated air;
supply air with cooling. Air conditioning is required here;
supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is ensured by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.

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However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the house construction plan. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the removal of already used air to the street.

The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:

grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
air valves that regulate the flow of air supplied to the house. In winter, protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
fans used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
heaters that heat the incoming air;
ventilation ducts that allow air to move.

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How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home

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Preparatory work for installing a hood in the kitchen begins with measurements of the room (the installation was discussed in more detail in, and how to choose the right one - in). After all, the obtained values will affect the choice of device model.

First of all, the cubic volume of the room is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the kitchen. The result is then multiplied by a factor of ten. This value determines the number of air changes per hour established by current regulations. The result obtained will be the minimum power required for the measured kitchen.

Since all exhaust devices require electricity, the installation locations of the devices are equipped with sockets.

Preparing a niche for a kitchen hood is also an important factor. After all, a centralized gas pipe can be installed in such a way that in the future it will interfere with the installation of equipment on the wall. The way out of the situation is to install brackets that will allow you to leave the necessary space between the wall and the hood. In addition, the wall should not have obvious defects and should be strong enough to support the kitchen exhaust system.

To install the equipment you will need:

building level;
roulette;
perforator;
Screwdriver Set;
jigsaw;
hacksaw for metal;
silicone sealant.

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Manufacturers of hoods provide consumers with three main modifications of devices:

hanging;
built-in;
dome or fireplace.

Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models that operate in recirculation mode.

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When the device operates in recirculation mode, the hood does not emit pollution into the street, but passes air through the filter and returns it back into the room.

Since wall-hung models operate in recirculation mode (), they are more suitable for small kitchens. This is explained by the fact that conventional filtration is not able to cope with air purification in large rooms.

Hanging hoods equipped with filters that need to be changed periodically. The frequency of replacements is indicated in the technical documentation of the device.

Among the positive qualities of the devices are their low price, the ability to be attached to a kitchen cabinet, and the lack of additional components, since hanging equipment does not require an air exhaust system.

Built-in technology practically hidden from view and serves as an air supply. The body of such a device is mounted directly into the kitchen cabinet, and only the air intake remains outside, which basically has a retractable panel.

The air duct of a built-in exhaust device can be led outside either through the ventilation system already existing in the house or through a wall or roof.

The most expensive model range, but at the same time the most powerful, is considered to be the fireplace or dome class. Hoods in this series not only provide stable air purification, but also become pronounced elements of room design. In addition to factory production, dome models can be individually designed.

Installing a kitchen hood over a gas stove

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How to properly make a kitchen hood over a stove with your own hands in a private home depends on the shape and size of the device. At the same time, the installation of an electrical appliance is also influenced by the location and dimensions of the kitchen unit modules.

There are three installation options:

built-in;
with fastening to the bottom of the cabinet;
with wall mounting.

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To install the device in a cabinet, the lower shelf of the kitchen module must first be removed. Subsequently, it may either not be installed at all, or a hole is made in it using a jigsaw that is suitable in size with a hood.

On the shelf located in the middle of the cabinet, holes are made for the electrical cable and air duct. Then the body of the device is applied to the shelf to be fixed and the fastening points are marked with a pencil. Next, the hood is attached using self-tapping screws.

The device mounted under a kitchen cabinet differs from the built-in version only in that the hood body remains outside. If desired, it is covered with a false panel or any other finishing material using double-sided tape or glue.

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When attaching the hood to the wall, first of all, mark the mounting points through the rear panel of the device. Holes are drilled along the marks, dowels at least 5 cm long are inserted into them. Then self-tapping screws are screwed into the two upper holes so that the hood can be hung freely on them. After checking the reliability of the structure, without removing the device, screw in the remaining screws and tighten the top ones.

Duct connection

Before connecting the air duct to the hood, you need to decide on the choice of material. There are two types of pipes for removing exhaust air from the room (more details):

corrugated, which are made of aluminum. Although the installation of this type of pipe does not require additional adapters, the sound insulation properties of corrugated products are very low. However, noise during operation of the hood can be reduced by tensioning the pipe.
plastic, having a cross-section both rectangular and round. In the latter, much less contaminants accumulate during operation, and the resistance is lower than in rectangular pipes. To install this class you will need L-shaped adapters.

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But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the air duct must coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the kitchen hood will work in increased mode, which will lead to rapid engine failure.

The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. For this purpose, a special grille is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device has finished operating. This mode of operation allows the natural air circulation system to operate fully.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

The task of installed ventilation in the bathroom is to clean the room from various odors and eliminate high humidity.

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Since the operation of a natural hood is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which include simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts long and uninterrupted operation.

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Ventilation ducts for the bathroom are selected with a diameter of at least 50 cubic meters per hour, and for the toilet an air duct with a width of 30 cubic meters per hour is suitable. The ability to remove odors and moist air from the bathroom is provided by a forced ventilation system. Its operation is carried out using installed fans, which can be with bearings or bushings. Devices with bushings are much cheaper than fans with bearings.

Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Device manufacturers also offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system begins to operate when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room. This method of ventilation is quite simple in its organization, but like the entire natural ventilation system, it is directly dependent on weather conditions.

A more effective method is a system that uses two pipes, 8–15 cm wide. In this case, the supply channel is mounted so that the lower part of the pipe is located at a height of 20–40 cm from the floor. The upper end should be fixed on the street so that the gap to the ground is 40–60 cm.

The lower end of the exhaust pipe is mounted directly under the ceiling, and the outer part is led through the ceilings to the roof and fixed 30–60 cm from it.

How to make a duct box

Some air duct models do not fit into the overall design of the room. The way out of this situation is to hide the channel in a special box.

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Depending on the material used, decorative designs are:

plastic;
wooden;
steel;
made of MDF, chipboard or plasterboard.

However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure must be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case will the decorative box fit into the overall design of the room.

Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands

Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And to do this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.

Ventilation systems come in a variety of designs, so choosing the right option for a private home is quite difficult. You need to understand many subtleties and nuances before making a decision.

What is it for?

Home ventilation in a cottage or country house is needed primarily for ventilation, that is, to replace exhaust air masses with fresh ones. However, this seemingly simple answer hides many subtleties and nuances. It is not always enough to pump in a certain volume of air from the outside and dump some of it outside. A very important task is to free the home atmosphere from dirt, harmful microorganisms and dust particles.

Even in cottage villages, the purity of air masses is questionable. Still, every minute factories are working somewhere, trains and planes are rushing, smoke is pouring out of power plants and from the exhaust pipes of cars. A conventional gas stove pollutes the room atmosphere with moisture additives. Plastic windows disrupt the normal process of removing dirt. Modern ventilation devices successfully solve all these problems.

Windows with mesh can prevent bumblebees and flies, mosquitoes and leaves from getting inside. But they will not protect against dust particles and plant allergens. The air passing through the mesh remains as excessively humid or dry as it is outside. It is not heated in winter and brings sweltering heat in summer. High-quality ventilation reliably cuts off all these negative factors and does not allow mold and other fungi to settle in the house.

Ventilation system design

Ventilation systems can solve such problems only if they are properly organized using a special method. Plastic air ducts are widely used for organizing mines. Thanks to universal connections, you can assemble everything yourself. Metal structures are more reliable, but assembling an air duct from them is much more difficult. This type of work is mostly done by craftsmen.

Grilles are used to distribute air; 1 house can sometimes have more than 10 grilles. They are divided into supply and exhaust format devices. But a prerequisite is that the grille (together with other components) must block the opening for air passage by a maximum of 40%. Forced ventilation systems are often equipped with diffusers and fans.

Ventilation complexes equipped with heaters are capable of heating the incoming air. The efficiency of this option is higher than using even the best heating devices to warm up the already supplied air. A very important component in many cases is the filter. They may not be used in suburban homes, but the proximity to a federal highway or railroad requires the use of an appropriate device. In this case, it should only cope with freeing the air from dust.

Regardless of the subtleties of filling, the equipment used and the natural or artificial drive of air, it is taken from below and released at the top point. Of the additional devices in the natural ventilation scheme, only a supply valve is present. Hoods for boilers, as well as for gas and electric stoves, are of the autonomous type. It is important to understand that they are not able to replace a full-fledged ventilation system. After all, air intake near the ceiling and at a considerable distance from heating devices still does not occur, and therefore the atmosphere in the room will inevitably remain clogged.

Kinds

Already at the time of construction, any building, including a private house, must be equipped with natural ventilation devices. This is a basic minimum, without which a normal indoor environment cannot be ensured. It is for such components that the calculation is usually carried out first, and the portion of air provided by natural ventilation is subtracted from the demand in order to determine the required power of mechanical devices. But the disadvantage of such a system is that it works stably only within very strict limits. It is enough to change the weather conditions, just change the direction of the wind, and the efficiency tends to zero.

Supply ventilation systems provide rational control of the quality characteristics of the air in the home. The simplest way to ensure the flow of air mass is a fan placed in the window opening. The disadvantage of this option is that it only works well during warm periods. If the temperature is very low, it will create discomfort.

The kind of external ventilation that can be seen in public and industrial buildings is excessive for a private home. And the point is not only in excessive power, but also in the large occupied area. You will need to perform the work as accurately as possible and develop the project in the smallest detail. Monoblock systems operating on inflow have become widespread. Such systems are assembled within a single building equipped with noise insulation.

Personal air supply systems only work for one room. Most of these devices are low-power and do not create much noise. The costs of purchasing them are low. There is no need to use air ducts or involve specialists. It is possible to equip such systems with recuperator units, but their effectiveness is ensured only at positive air temperatures.

The attached type of ventilation ducts should have dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is advisable to use ready-made pipes rather than build communications from plasterboard. This is more reliable and saves time during installation. The pipes are discharged above the roof, the lifting height is determined by the installation location. It is prohibited to use ventilation combined with a chimney; The supply and exhaust for the kitchen must be independent of each other.

Separate ventilation ducts lead to rooms that are needed to solve household problems. These are dressing rooms, laundry rooms and storage rooms. Such channels cannot be laid in load-bearing walls. It is also inadvisable to install them in external walls, where this will lead to continuous formation of condensation. The laying of ventilation routes for gas also has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether water heaters (water heaters), heating boilers or kitchen stoves are installed.

The combustion of natural gas inevitably leads to a reduction in the concentration of oxygen in the air. Additionally, this causes an increase in the concentration of carbon dioxide, the chimney becomes increasingly clogged with soot, and the air in the room quickly fills with water and dust. And all this is dangerous not only due to subjective inconveniences: it poses a threat to the health and even lives of people. Since private houses, with the exception of large cottages, do not install boilers more powerful than 30 kW, it is from this level that we should proceed. Natural supply ventilation of boiler rooms is created by marking a channel, the margin of which is about 1 cm.

The diameters of the air pipes are at least 150 mm. They should be laid in openings with a slight inclination towards the street. To cover empty areas, use foam. The part of the foam that extends beyond the contour must be cut off after hardening. It is not possible to eliminate dust clogging in this scheme; the solution to the problem is to use grilles with filters.

Another grille is mounted at the outlet of the pipe to the street to prevent small animals and debris from getting inside. The outlet must be located at least 1 m from the boiler. This requirement is intended to prevent the influence of cold air on the operation of the gas boiler. You should not rely too much on automation: yes, it can compensate for such an impact, but this will only significantly shorten the service life of the product. The natural format of boiler room ventilation, depending on external conditions, allows you to save energy.

Mixed supply and exhaust units contain filters, fans and air heaters. In boiler rooms they provide a complete microclimate. Taking into account the capabilities of modern automated boilers, such systems help reduce fuel consumption and stabilize the operation of heating equipment. Boiler rooms can use ducted or ductless air supply systems. In the first case, its flows are collected together and then discharged outside naturally or forcibly.

To move the air created by gas equipment, rectangular channels based on galvanized steel are most often used. Such systems are easy and simple to install. The kit always includes the necessary parts. There is almost always no need for auxiliary fittings. Since the size and weight of the air ducts are small, you can create them with your own hands.

Standard requirements and design rules

According to regulatory requirements, all technical solutions in buildings and structures must be focused on ensuring and maintaining a microclimate that complies with the instructions of GOST 30494. You should also be guided by the instructions contained in the sanitary rules of 2002. Even emergency ventilation and smoke protection equipment cannot create general noise greater than 110 dB, and impulse noise greater than 125 dB. Anti-corrosion coating of air ducts can be done with easily flammable paints, but their thickness cannot exceed 0.02 cm.

According to the standards in force in Russia, it is necessary to force the air into motion if the meteorological characteristics of the area do not provide the required parameters for its movement. This may also be due to the need to purify incoming air masses. Mechanical ventilation is mandatory in all areas where natural ventilation is completely impossible. Another case where you can’t do without artificial encouragement is in areas where the air temperature drops to -40 degrees or less. In such situations, it is necessary to supplement the pumping systems with heating means.

According to SNiP, air purification from dust should be carried out to the maximum permissible concentration for a specific settlement or lower. All systems should be designed so that the room temperature does not fall below 12 degrees. Ideally, it should be kept within normal limits. The lowest point of the part receiving air from the outside must be located at least 1 m above stable snow cover and 2 m above ground level. If the territory may be subject to sandstorms, the rise should be already 3 m. But the need to protect air receivers from pollen, leaves, twigs, petals and the like is determined individually, according to the technical specifications.

All points where transit air ducts are laid through walls must be sealed through partitions using non-combustible materials. It is prohibited to combine air ducts with gas pipelines, electrical wiring, communication cables and sewer systems. The approach of all these communications to pipes and their simple intersection are also prohibited. If there are several ventilation systems (usually supply and exhaust), then instruments for measuring temperatures and pressures are made common for all circuits.

According to the current GOST, it is allowed to use only those methods of fastening air distribution devices to air ducts or to permanent structures of buildings that are provided for in the technical documentation for the products.

Materials and components

The arrangement of ventilation in houses made of SIP panels has its own characteristics. In this case, since the buildings are lightweight to the limit, the simplest ventilation systems are usually used. The exception is for houses with a height of two or more floors. Even if a house made from such panels is built using ventilated facade technology, additional air flow will still be needed. The simplest option to ensure its flow without disturbing the climatic properties of the premises is to use special valves.

They are mostly installed directly into house frames. Such structures are externally invisible and do not detract from the appearance of the buildings. To connect the supply valves to the frame and ceilings, you can use plastic or asbestos-cement pipes. It is strictly unacceptable to make metal air ducts. They will significantly increase noise and weaken thermal insulation. According to professionals, asbestos-cement slabs as a basis for ventilation of a SIP house are much better than their plastic counterparts.

Mechanical ventilation systems in SIP houses can provide air cleaning and heating simultaneously with pumping. The problem is that it can be quite difficult to make such highways without the help of professionals. Only very trained and skillful people will solve such problems successfully. The key link is the hood, which provides rarefaction of air in living rooms. Since the intake of air masses is carried out forcibly, increased pressure is formed, which ensures the release (displacement) of the exhaust part of the atmosphere into the street.

In many frame buildings they try to make combined ventilation systems. They help maintain optimal air movement with little energy consumption. For a large cottage (180-200 sq. m) it is necessary to create 6, 7 or 8 ventilation ducts. If the total area of the home is smaller or larger, their number also needs to be changed. The pipes form a kind of collector, which is equipped with an exhaust fan.

It is better to use not just mechanical, but fully automated fans. They will need to be connected to humidity sensors installed in each room. Then optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be ensured in any room. The use of infrared measuring instruments is not recommended because their cost is prohibitive. Only professionals calculate the fan power, because no one will be able to do it correctly without special training.

To form ventilation lines in private houses, PVC sewer pipes with a cross-section of 11 cm are often used. They are almost 3 times more profitable than galvanized counterparts, and the air moving through them makes less noise. What is important is that such structures can be installed relatively easily, and the joints will have a high degree of tightness. Such pipes can be equipped with fittings of various types, which makes it possible to make smooth and sharp turns of pipelines at any angle.

The smoothness of the inner wall virtually eliminates obstacles to the movement of air flows. This means not only minimal “loudness,” but also high ventilation efficiency. Buying such pipes will not be difficult in any city. But we must take into account that all sewer pipes are round; they take up more space than rectangular structures of similar capacity. But the concern about the accumulation of static electricity on plastic pipelines, as practice has shown, has no good reason.

As for the release of toxic substances, nothing can be said without studying a specific sample. Only after testing in a laboratory does it become clear whether a certain type of plastic is dangerous or not. All that remains for the consumer is to rely on the quality certificates provided by manufacturers and sellers. Before drawing up a wiring diagram for ventilation pipes, it is necessary to take into account the natural or forced nature of ventilation. Only then will it be possible to use the correct formulas for calculating cross-sections based on throughput levels.

Chimneys, or rather forced exhaust systems, deserve special attention. Although they do not intersect with ventilation and cannot form a single circuit, the tasks being solved are still quite close. Weak draft in a private home is bad not only because of the threat of smoke and carbon monoxide poisoning, not only because of soot and soot in the home. Even a slight weakening of it, which can be difficult to notice, results in excessive fuel consumption, a drop in the efficiency of its combustion and accelerated cooling of the rooms.

Another nuance is that unstable operation of the hood threatens a fire. If soot accumulates, it may one day ignite in such a way that even a heat-resistant type of brick cannot withstand it. By replacing the usual wooden windows with cracks with plastic ones and installing steel doors, the draft will inevitably weaken. After all, all chimney designs are also designed for this fresh air influx channel. Therefore, it will be necessary to compensate for the lost power of natural ventilation through special techniques.

To cope with the effects of wind or changes in the direction of air movement, weather vanes and weather vanes can be used. Such elements, turning in the direction of the flow, block the head of the pipe and maintain a stable mode of air movement in it. When flowing around such parts, the wind contributes to the formation of rarefied areas above the end of the chimney. The result is increased traction without consuming electricity. Most often, weather vanes are made from stainless steel; the sheet thickness should be at least 0.05 cm.

To ensure movement around its axis, weather vanes are equipped with closed support bearings. Such devices do not require additional maintenance during the entire period of operation. If the product meets standard standards, the housing does not collect condensation and soot. The only thing the owners will need to do is fight the formation of ice crusts. In addition, it is worth considering that weather vane fans operate poorly and unstably if the wind is very strong.

An alternative to them are rotary turbines. These devices also use the energy of atmospheric currents. But the twist occurs in one direction, regardless of which way the wind blows. The ball, assembled using a special system of “petals,” prevents the pipe from clogging with all kinds of dirt and prevents birds and insects from settling in. However, when there is no wind at all, this expensive product is almost useless.

The exhaust fan does not depend on the weather. It is fundamentally different from a fireplace ventilation device designed to force draft. The basis of the device is an electric motor designed to be powered by a regular home electrical network. You need to use a smoke exhaust fan if you need to create increased draft in the smoke duct for a small fireplace. High-quality designs ensure normal ventilation of the hearth even when the chimney duct is heated to 600 degrees.

How to do it yourself?

You can begin installing ventilation communications in a private house only after a diagram has been drawn up in accordance with all the rules. But the scheme itself can only be drawn up on the basis of accurate information and estimates:

required air exchange parameters;

created microclimate;

standards for the installation of ventilation equipment;

features and modes of its use.

Russian standards provide that per 1 sq. m of enclosed space it is required to supply 3 cubic meters. m of air in 60 minutes. But at the same time, we must not forget about the “human” norms - 30 cubic meters. m per tenant. All this is worth remembering when it comes time to calculate the cross-sections and internal diameters of the channels, their length and air movement speed. If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, 60 cubic meters should be supplied there. m of air, and if gas - another 50% more. When possible, it is worth drawing up technical specifications and entrusting the development of the project to qualified specialists.

As with other technical systems, we must strive to reduce the number of installed parts. It is important to consider points such as:

the ability to repair and configure everything yourself;

availability of backup nodes;

ease of operation;

reliability in a wide variety of conditions;

harmonious fit of the ventilation complex into the interior;

cost-effectiveness during installation and use.

All longitudinal seams on air ducts and other elements must face upward. Each fastener is tightened until it stops so that the bolts cannot be turned any further. Individual parts of communications can be placed on the mountings provided for them only after installation. When selecting and using fasteners, pay attention to the weight of the air ducts. The load from them should not go to the devices.

All fasteners must be equipped with means that inhibit the spread of vibration. Radial fans should be placed on rigid supports and secured with anchor bolts. The filter blocks must be tensioned evenly so that they do not sag. Loose installation of electric motors (in which they are poorly fitted to the fans) is prohibited. It is recommended to check whether the fan blades rotate freely.

All openings used for air passage are covered with protective grilles with a mesh size of no more than 70 mm. A mandatory requirement is also to reduce to a minimum the number of bends and turns, as well as intersections and duplicate sections. In any case, the sequence of installation work is as follows:

marking positions for using fasteners;

assembly of retaining structures;

preparation of air ducts and receipt of components;

formation of individual sections of the ventilation system;

merging them into a monolithic complex with consolidation in accordance with plans and diagrams that meet regulatory requirements.

In residential buildings, unlike industrial facilities, ventilation ducts are most often hidden from external view with the help of finishing elements. The selection of a ventilation system for a private home is determined by considerations such as:

construction materials of the building and its ceilings;

total area;

intensity of home use;

number of residents;

environmental and sanitary characteristics of street air;

climate regime of the area;

Rose of Wind;

characteristics of polluting factors in the home environment;

economic feasibility of using certain solutions;

ensuring comfort and a sanitary safe internal environment;

minimizing fire risks and noise;

no negative impacts on neighboring houses and plots, or on the environment.

In private homes, you can use both forced and natural systems. The second option is preferable for buildings made of brick, wood and expanded clay concrete blocks. If the home is equipped with a balcony or loggia, these rooms must be equipped with devices for micro-ventilation. But much more often, hoods are used to remove condensate. Supply and exhaust devices should be used in rooms that do not have windows.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended for ventilating built-in garages and home boiler rooms. In a mixed system, a convector is responsible for the influx, the additional functions of which are heating, filtration and disinfection of incoming air. Ultraviolet emitters are widely used to combat harmful microorganisms.

The use of recuperators helps prevent overcooling of the serviced premises in winter.

Phased installation involves installing:

filter systems;

heater;

fan;

recuperator;

air conditioning systems.

If there is no need to place a block, it is simply skipped. But there is no need to change the general order. Air conditioning units are installed last, just before the discharge hole. Domestic ventilation ducts passing through unheated roofs must be covered with thermal insulation. When it is planned to combine inflow and outflow, care must be taken to install exhaust fans. Electrical lines are laid last, just before they are connected; They must be grounded.

When ventilation systems are divided into sections, networks for each of them are assembled separately. Pre-launch tests of all units must be carried out without fail.

It is necessary to drill inputs and outputs with a slight slope in the direction of the street. This is important for complete drainage of condensate. Hole diameter is at least 120-130 mm.

It is advisable to install wall valves in the space from the window sill to the heating radiator. You need to cut a passage in the wall, the cross-section of which ranges from 50 to 60 mm. The pipe goes into the hole. Then you need to secure the outer and inner distributors. Subsequent cleaning of the valve should be done every 6 months or even more often.

Products that activate air exhaust in a private home are installed mainly in kitchens (above stoves) and in bathrooms. The current consumption of such systems is small; it is possible to power them with electricity taken from the light bulb regulators. Mixing and mutual blocking of flows flowing from toilets and bathtubs can be prevented by using a return valve. Air can easily pass through it, but the reverse movement is impossible. Small modifications are fixed to:

original fasteners offered by the manufacturer.

When choosing a product, you need to look not only at compliance with the project. A very important point for the quality operation of the valve is isolation from water. Experts note that silent systems consume more electricity during operation. Experience in using various versions has led to the conclusion that the body made of acrylic and polyisopropylene is characterized by increased strength. Output through the wall is not the only way to ensure air flow; there is also the possibility of installing products (or preparing passages) in window blocks or separately.

Having opened the frame, cut off the outer seal from the bottom, the length of which does not exceed 50 mm. The removed part of the material is left in storage because it may suddenly need to be returned. A similar part of the internal seal is cut off at the top. The principle is extremely simple:

street air passes into the lower channel;

passing through the internal cavity of the frame, the flow is heated;

an improved portion of air from above is released into the room.

But such a measure, for all its simplicity and ease of implementation, is acceptable only in the southern regions. Wherever severe frosts may occur, the outer hole will freeze and stop working. In addition, there is no way to filter or intensively heat the air. Valves are more advanced in this regard, but they have their drawbacks:

many walls can only be broken through with special tools;

drilling will be accompanied by the release of a mass of fine dust;

assessing the quality of thermal protection of a wooden or stone wall in a drilled location is possible only in winter - when it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the deficiencies;

heating, filtration, drying and humidification of air are possible only using electrical systems.

In a residential cottage where a heating boiler is installed, a distributed air duct system is most often used. The reason is that any heating boilers absorb a lot of air during their operation. Neither natural circulation nor valves will be able to compensate for the resulting loss. The preferred location of the inflow is at the entrance to the home or in the corridor. After all, it is these points that are guaranteed to communicate with all the others, and the air streams will need to cover the shortest possible distance.

Air ducts can be made not only of steel and plastic; In some cases, corrugated aluminum gives good results. To make the intersections of elements impenetrable, you can use both sealants (there are a lot of them) and insulating tape. Pipes are attached to the ceiling using hangers, carefully choosing their design. Mounting to walls is done using special clamps. To curb noise and vibration, it is allowed to use foam or foam rubber.

During the pre-launch test you should check:

no vibration;

ensuring design and/or standard performance;

normal operation of all installed parts and control devices;

correct air distribution in accordance with planned calculations;

completeness of smoke removal in the kitchen;

the completeness of freeing baths and toilets from moisture, bad and strong odors;

absence of defects in all fastenings and joints;

absence of short circuits and improper operation of electrical circuits;

uniform temperature adjustment during operation of heating devices.

A common misconception is that in a wooden house the walls themselves provide adequate air passage. Even for log buildings built in accordance with modern requirements, this is no longer the case. The problem is even more acute in frame housing with basic wooden elements. If this consideration is not enough, it is important to look at something else:

wood easily becomes saturated with moisture and rots;

without full pumping, the natural ability of wood to let air through will still not allow for its correct change;

natural circulation does not allow the air to warm up;

Carbon dioxide, excess heat and moisture in the air do not escape through wooden structures.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is usually installed immediately during construction. Vertical channels are made first in basements, and then in other parts of the home. Vents are prepared in the basements, and the supply channel is mounted at the base level. Recommendation: it is advisable to install it from the north, since there the temperature difference is greatest, as is the draft it creates. If the house occupies a large area, it is necessary to form several channels at once.

The organization of ventilation in brick houses is noticeably different from the scheme just described. Hoods must be made in full compliance with fire safety requirements. All hoods are also equipped with insulating grilles; if they are also made of brick, you must create special pockets that will allow you to remove accumulated soot and dust. The air supply inside the brick building is ensured by a fan placed close to the window. But to discharge the exhaust air mass, it is placed in a channel opposite the window opening.

Channels are laid in any case according to templates. For their manufacture, boards measuring 140x2500x25 mm are used. Such parts are provided with cuts, each of which has the same diameter as the ventilation duct. If the room area is 30 sq. m or less, a recess of 14x14 cm is quite enough for it. But the rise of the channel masonry above the roof surface should be at least 7 bricks.

When working, you need to make sure that each seam is perfectly closed with mortar. Only then will the leakage of smoke, vapors, soot and soot into the serviced space be prevented. It is three times more important to provide all rooms where there is no natural circulation in a brick house with an artificial air supply. You will also have to remove it mechanically. The presence of cracks and extraneous holes or cracks in the wall, inside which cold air is supplied, is unacceptable.

Frame buildings made of timber, used only in the summer months, may not be equipped with ventilation systems. But if they are nevertheless created, the recuperator should be supplemented with a bypass. Then, on hot days, excess heating of street air can be canceled without intruding into the design of the air ducts. You can use both conventional and monoblock complexes. The second option has enhanced noise protection, and therefore is ideal for private housing.

Many frame house projects are initially supplemented with special openings, which are initially designed to carry out the required communications. You should not refuse this opportunity. Plastic pipes for air supply and exhaustion are ideal in frame buildings because they:

cheaper than steel ones;

not subject to the destructive effects of condensate;

do not turn into cold bridges.

The minimum size of horizontal channels is 10x10 cm. For horizontal mains, this figure starts from 12x12 cm. It is imperative to use window frames (along with walls) to place inflow valves. It is recommended to install ventilation ducts near air ducts serving gas boilers. If the house is equipped with a conventional stove, the discharge channel is as close as possible to this device.

The hood in a one-story house is often enhanced by adding a household fan. This approach is quite convenient and allows you to prevent the spread of bad odors throughout the house. But ensuring normal operation of the system is impossible without leaving gaps separating the floor from the doors. Central air conditioning is often an added upgrade. However, its use is difficult due to the fact that it will be necessary to stretch very thick pipes.

They take up a lot of space and are not always practical or comfortable in appearance. The cost of such a device is not affordable for all people. But regardless of the season, it will provide the same level of heating in any room. In a two-story residential building, the problems are somewhat different. Here, supporting normal air circulation in sanitary facilities and kitchens occupying different tiers comes to the fore.

Please note: conventional technical solutions used in two-story buildings often create increased noise. We must immediately prepare for this and actively dampen extraneous sounds. At the same time, it is impossible to reduce the ventilation power of problem areas - the air in them should be changed 10 times in 60 minutes. Professionals consider the best solution to the problem to be the use of a natural supply and exhaust configuration and a recuperator.

The main ventilation unit in a house with both a full second floor and an attic must pump at least 400 cubic meters per hour. m of air.

But the larger the ventilated area, the stronger the installation must be. It is recommended to use decentralized type recuperators. Such devices are installed in separate rooms, eliminating the need for air duct systems. Positive results are reflected even in adjacent rooms.

Correct air movement is ensured by placing the receiving and output openings on opposite walls. But their area must be strictly identical, only then the passage of air flows will be normal. Recommendation: it is better to replace the upper grille with a pipe rising above the roof. In this case, the overall efficiency will only increase further. It is advisable to equip the sewage system with a separate ventilation system.

Fan pipes are made of the same materials as the waste discharge riser. To carry them out, the channel provided by the design of the house is used. Important: if the architects did not initially concern themselves with this point, a horizontal outlet into the wall should be used. Since the drainage in a private house is small, the passage of odors from the septic tank is also very limited. The inner sides are insulated using roofing felt or bitumen, and the outer sides are lined with 350 mm of clay or a little more.

There are also subtleties when arranging ventilation in houses made of aerated concrete. Often, central channels are made from reliable grades of galvanized steel. Insulating the passages helps prevent the occurrence of condensation. Alternatives to such measures include laying a brick air route or lining with a carefully designed plastic seal. Ventilation of aerated concrete premises is carried out at least 5 times within an hour.

Air ducts can be made from galvanized material, asbestos cement, or plastic with the appropriate characteristics. It is necessary to lay channels in all rooms without exception. The lines used to remove exhaust air merge together in the attic or at ceiling level. In this case, high-quality insulation of their roof outlets is extremely important. For forced ventilation of aerated concrete buildings, pipes with a cross-section of 130 mm are used; natural channels are made from 150 mm pipes.

Experienced builders believe that laying channels inside walls is impractical. In this case, you may encounter the appearance of condensation and a decrease in the thermal characteristics of the home. In aerated concrete houses, special shafts or partitions are used to place drainage and underwater channels, separating the internal walls. The best solution is to line it with a plastic part and cut out holes of the required size.

Arranging air circulation in built-in rooms

But simply supplying portions of fresh air from the outside is not enough - both in a wooden house and in a structure made of aerated concrete this is true to the same extent. After all, if freshness touches only the immediate conclusion and does not go further, all meaning will be lost. Ventilation must also ensure the circulation of air masses. For a cold attic in the classical scheme, an adjustable system is required, in which the rafters and sheathing are not closed. If this approach is not satisfactory, you need to use cladding with gaps through which gas will move freely and unrestrictedly.

Ondulin and slate should be laid without the use of films that hinder the movement of air or water vapor. They will also pass through metal tiles well, but you may encounter condensation. Channels for air access on a gable roof are made in the gables. For tight junctions and lining, as well as for the manufacture of pediments made of stone, you will have to prepare holes in the walls. The total area of ventilation ducts on any floor, including the attic, must be at least 0.2% of the total area.

To save money, they install standard grilles (one with adjustment, and the other with the holes facing down). It is imperative to cover the grilles with mosquito nets to ensure that insects do not get inside. This is not the approach required for hip roof ventilation. There, the air input is prepared at the bottom (in the filing), and for its output a hole is prepared at the very ridge. When using a flexible roof, we recommend a turtle-type valve or a ridge with a ventilation function.

There is a fairly widespread opinion that attic ventilation leads to loss of warm air. In reality, such cases occur only through the fault of unprofessional builders or designers. They start such a myth in order to justify their own mistakes and shortcomings in their work. Ventilating systems must be of increased strength, because otherwise they will not withstand the resulting loads. It is recommended to bring the holes as close to the ridge as possible.

It is allowed to install continuous soffits under the eaves. But if such products are installed, they must be equipped with a thin mesh (plastic or aluminum to prevent corrosion). Supply components must be installed in the cleanest place possible. The distance from the suction equipment to the exhaust fan should be at least 8 m. Installing a recuperator is very useful.

When the design of a private house provides for the organization of a ground floor (basement), it is necessary to consider equipping its walls with openings for natural air exchange. This takes into account:

composition and mechanical structure of the soil;

relief of the territory;

prevailing wind directions;

depth of foundation and its type;

mode of use;

groundwater height.

According to professionals, 1 hole should be per 2-3 m of wall. Several more of them are made when construction is carried out in a lowland. If there is a clear lack of ventilation, an additional supply and exhaust system is used. Floor ventilation is very important, sometimes even more important than basement ventilation. If it is not provided, even the strongest and most beautiful boards will quickly be destroyed by mold and other fungi.

Air is blown through the underground space through holes made in the foundation. Pipes working for inflow are laid there. They try to bring them as close as possible to the hood; if this is not possible, simultaneously increase the diameter of the inlet hole. If during the first months of using the home the ventilation proves to be insufficiently effective, additional holes have to be punched. But it is much easier and better to do everything properly when pouring a concrete base.

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How to make ventilation in a private two-story house. Ventilation in a private house - natural or forced? Video: installation of a supply ventilator for private housing

Definition and severity of the problem

So you understand how serious this is

A good example

The principle of operation of ventilation of a house and apartment

Inflow problems

Exhaust ventilation

Air duct material

Additional devices

Natural or forced

Ventilation schemes for private houses and apartments

DIY ventilation: action plan

Preparatory work

Parameter calculations and detailing

Installation and configuration

Other solutions

Hood in a private house: laws and patterns

How to properly install a hood in a private house?

Hood in the basement

Drain hood: olfactory comfort

Gas hood: a safe solution

Which rooms require ventilation?

Features of the implementation of the air exchange system

Forced ventilation system

Proper organization of ventilation in suburban housing

Deciding on the optimal system

Ventilation in a private house: calculated data

Ventilation duct and its cross-section

Natural ventilation

Advantages

Flaws

Forced exhaust

How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home

Installing a kitchen hood over a gas stove

Duct connection

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

How to make a duct box

Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands

What is it for?

Ventilation system design

Kinds

Standard requirements and design rules

Materials and components

How to do it yourself?

Arranging air circulation in built-in rooms