How to convert a halogen chandelier to LED 12v. Replacing capsule halogen lamps with LED: expectations and reality. Parallel or series connection
If you “got” an uneconomical chandelier with balls and G4 plastic socles in them, constantly losing contact, as well as burning out halogen bulbs, then the proposed review is for you. With a severe restriction from the side of "my half", in the sense of "the balls must remain!", there are not so many options for modernization. With one of them, using ready-made elements purchased on Ali, I propose to familiarize yourself. The soldering iron was used exclusively for soldering connecting wires. Necessary warning: many words, 11 1MB photos and 2.35 MB video. Anyone interested, welcome!
The chandelier before the alteration had 6 HL with a total power of 120 watts.
Photo of the chandelier before the alteration.
One of the lamps did not burn due to a hopeless loss of contact in the base.
The chandelier illuminates part of the room with a table adjacent to one of the corners. It is switched on by a common switch with a lamp having 2 LNs of 40 W each, located in another adjacent corner. Thus, the task was to reduce the power consumption of the lamps of this line. The easiest way was to solve the problem with a two-lamp luminaire by replacing the LN with warm-white spotlight-type LED lamps with a declared power of 12W
The replacement did not cause any complaints from the home either in terms of illumination or color rendering, no ripples were found.
The greatest difficulty was the conversion of the chandelier to LED lighting, under strict condition to preserve the balls, the construct of which (without glass) sits on the thread of the G4 base holder. In this case, the diameter of the lamp should not be more than 10 mm.
A couple of years ago, when remodeling a similar chandelier, I removed the balls (they were glass, covered with twisted wire) and installed open LED lamps of the “corn” type. Not everyone, however, liked it, but it suited me!
Recently I found on Ali several LED lamps with a diameter of 10mm, both 12V (unipolar) and 220V, powered by AC.
I took a sample of 5 pieces for 12V (3W) and 220V (4W).
Light bulbs "corn" warm white 12V (3W) in a silicone shell, 24xSMD3014 with the following parameters. At a voltage of 12V DC, the power is 1.27W, the maximum temperature on the case = 58 degrees. 1.02W is dissipated on the LED, and 0.25W on additional resistors. SMD3014 mode: 3.2V; 13.25mA; 42mW with add. 100mW. Luminous flux 80-100 lm.
Light bulbs "corn" warm white 220V (4W) in a silicone shell 32xSMD3014: I don’t give the measurement results for one lamp because of the uncertainty in their reliability (my Volt-Amp-Watt meter has a large error at low loads), below will be the results for a group of 5 lamps. The surface temperature of the lamp at U=237V reaches 75 degrees. Therefore, it was decided to include their group through ext. resistance, providing an operating mode at 220V. The silicone of the lamps is soft to the touch, the lamp vibrates noticeably during operation - an unpleasant surprise!
It is not enough to say that the characteristics of these lamps were not impressive, but this did not affect the decision to upgrade.
- I remain with the hope that better lamps will appear in the future.
So, it was to:
1. Replace one plastic base with a missing contact with a new ceramic one.
2. Replace GL 12V with LED 12V by connecting them to the power supply with stabilized voltage. I just found a network power supply at home with a current of 1.5A (18W) and, fortunately, with a removable plug. It should be noted that the balls are powered by a single-core wire in the screen, which serves as a conductive wire, so the use of 220V lamps in the balls was excluded.
3. Install 5 LED lamps 220V at the top of the chandelier structure in new G4 ceramic bases bought on Ali.
4. Install a switch already familiar to readers of the site in the chandelier in order to organize separate control of two groups of lamps. Group 1 - a lamp with two LED lamps + 6 LED lamps 12V in a chandelier, in total at a nominal value of 24 + 18 \u003d 42W (the lighting option before the alteration remains the most frequently used after the alteration), Group 2 - 5 LED lamps 220V in the chandelier (local lighting when watching TV) with a power of 20W. When both groups are turned on, the power = 62W (according to the lamp powers declared by the sellers).
Replacing the base is clear from the following photos.
The holes for the new G4 ceramic plinths were easily handled with a 3-13mm step drill bit.
I can’t imagine assembly and testing on the table without convenient screwless terminal blocks similar to Wago, also purchased on Ali (link for readers who are not yet familiar with them).
The next three photos show a chaotic amateur installation of lamp elements, fortunately invisible from the outside.
The largest share in this confusion was made by unshortened shielded wires to the balls, but I did not want to deprive the chandelier of the ability to change the length of their overhang. Group 1 (PSU with 6 LED lamps 12V) is connected to the yellow wire of the switch, group 2 (5 LED lamps) - to the white wire of the switch in series with an additional resistance that reduces the mains voltage of 230 V (at the installation site of the chandelier) by 8.5 V ( resistors are taken from those that were at hand).
Chandelier power measurement
With U=237V and the absence of one 12V lamp. In parentheses are the powers measured with a voltmeter.Group 1: I=0.1A; KM=0.37; S \u003d 237x0.1 \u003d 23.7VA; P \u003d 23.7x0.37 \u003d 9W (8.8W).
Group 2: I=0.15A; KM=0.25; S=237x0.15=35.6VA; P \u003d 35.6x0.25 \u003d 9W (8.9W).
Groups 1+2: I=0.18A; KM=0.44; S=237x0.18=42.7VA; P \u003d 42.7x0.44 \u003d 18.8W (18.3W).
I explain some oddities in the results by the high error of the instruments in the lower measurement range.
In conclusion, a couple of photos and one video of a modernized chandelier in the same place - shot in daylight. One ball is still offended - it is waiting for its inhabitant with Ali.
findings
1. Modernization of such chandeliers with balls while maintaining the latter is possible.2. The power consumption of the converted chandelier has decreased by 6 times.
3. I was not able to evaluate the change in the level of illumination either by measurements or by calculation (I could not determine the efficiency of a 220V LED lamp). The visual assessment of my “chief expert” is “no worse, it will do!”. The same assessment in relation to color reproduction. Illumination pulsations were not visually detected.
4. The organization of lighting groups received a more positive assessment.
5. Of the minuses: in absolute silence (which, however, is unattainable when the TV is on), the noise of the 220V lamps, due to their vibration, is barely audible.
I would like to find on sale more powerful lamps for 12V with a diameter of up to 10 mm and not vibrating - for 220V. Maybe one of you succeeded?
Thanks to everyone who read to the end! I will try to answer the questions that have arisen. I plan to buy +25 Add to favorites Liked the review +24 +51
Halogen lamps are widely used in offices, shops, to create interior lighting in everyday life. But they have their drawbacks, this is a small resource, the need to use a transformer that lowers the voltage to 12 V, high electricity consumption, they consume it a little less than conventional incandescent lamps, and they also emit a lot of heat.
Recently, the industry has begun to produce a large number of LED lamps with the same parameters as halogen lamps, with the same bulb, base. These are mainly lamps with a GU5.3 and GU10 base with a power of no more than 3W, while its counterpart, a halogen lamp, consumes 15W and has a short service life of a maximum of 25 thousand hours.
For the operation of a halogen lamp, heat-removing radiators and electronics are required that stabilize and equalize the current and also a transformer. They also have low consumer parameters, poor light output.
Consider the most optimal option for replacing halogen lamps with LED ones, which, due to a more advanced, innovative heat removal system, are characterized by greater radiation power, while their electronic part is supplied as a separate power supply, it can easily be hidden in a false ceiling, and even one such unit can be used for three modules with LEDs. This method allows you to achieve serious success, almost all halogen lamps can be changed to LED without losing the quality of the luminous flux, while all costs pay off quickly enough.
For replacement, you can buy a set of three LED modules with three 3 W LEDs per module and a KIT/3OSP3/B power supply. It is great for replacing MR16-GU5.3-20W type halogen lamp. The size of one module allows you to easily replace the lamp without changing the lamp. In addition to the halogen lamp, you need to remove the step-down transformer, cartridge.
The service life of the LEDs is at least 50 thousand hours, the electricity consumption is several watts less. When the lighting is on for eight hours, the cost of electricity during the operation of the LED lamp will not exceed 9 kW / h per year, the halogen analogue consumes almost 60 watts.
This method of replacing halogen lamps with LED ones has several more advantages, for example, modules can be purchased separately, without a power supply. This makes sense if there is a 12V step-down transformer, and there is no need to change it. In this case, it is necessary to use a special driver, a current stabilizer, it operates at a voltage of 12-24V.
A halogen transformer can rather be called a voltage converter and without a current converter, a driver, it will produce an alternating voltage, and not the constant voltage needed to power the LEDs. If it is not used, then during half the period there will be no pulse on the LEDs, and the brightness will drop significantly.
All modules are produced in at least two color temperature options of 3 and 6 thousand K, and some in the RGB version. In the event that it is necessary to replace the electrical cable, when replacing halogen lamps with LED ones, you can choose a cheaper, smaller cable, since LED light sources consume little electricity.
LED lamps are gradually replacing analogues with a higher level of energy consumption, in particular, halogen ones. If the socket in the lighting device corresponds to the base of the light source, it is allowed to replace lamps of one type with another. It is easier to put 220 volt LED lighting elements instead of inefficient analogues in a lamp, since a current stabilizer is already provided in the design of such a lamp.
But if it is necessary to replace the 12 volt halogen model with a diode-based version with an equivalent supply voltage, in this case there are nuances that you should find out about before installation.
What is the difficulty of replacing lamps with diode
Problems arise precisely with 12 volt bulbs, because both options: both LED and halogen versions, are connected through a step-down transformer (power supply). This node provides the required level of supply voltage for these lamps. If both models are equipped with the same base, then theoretically it is possible to put one lighting element instead of the other.
However, a comparison of a halogen and a diode-based lamp shows that in the first case, the input voltage is not stabilized, while diode-based analogs will work normally only if a stabilized voltage is supplied.
If the replacement of the lamps was carried out without other changes in the circuit, then as a result, the light will begin to flash constantly when turned on. Moreover, the pulsations will be noticeable to the eye and will negatively affect the perception of such lighting.
There is another difficulty - LED lamps consume a minimum of electricity (from 1 W), respectively, the transformer will not work stably due to periodic outages. This is due to the fact that the consumed load is much lower than in the case of halogen counterparts.
If we make a comparison between these types of lighting elements, we can note a significant difference in energy consumption levels at the same luminous intensity: 1.5 W LED lamps and 40 W halogen versions. Therefore, you should be prepared for the fact that in this case, replacing 12 volt lamps will turn off the lamp.
There is another nuisance - the partial functioning of the chandelier control panel. If you put LED versions instead of halogen counterparts, that is, completely replace all the lamps, there will be difficulties in the operation of the remote control. But this applies only to lighting fixtures of certain models.
Transformer replacement
You can avoid the difficulties described above if you dismantle the transformers for halogen lamps and install suitable power supplies for a group of lighting elements based on diodes. Replacement must be carried out taking into account the electrical parameters at the input of the lamps: the supply voltage is 12 volts. Also, the power supply is selected based on the total power of the lighting elements. If there are quite a lot of them, you can put several transformers.
The total load is calculated according to the number of lamps in each group of lighting elements. You need to multiply the power of one light bulb by their number. For example, it is planned to install 9 light sources in one group of lighting elements, and the power of the selected light bulb corresponds to 1.5 W. The total load will be equal to 13.5 watts.
If you compare halogen lamps and diode varieties, you can see that the power of one halogen is much greater than the total load of diode light sources of one group.
When choosing a 12 volt power supply, it is important that its dimensions approximately correspond to a halogen-type lamp transformer.
Installing this node is quite simple: you can unsolder the wires from the power supply board and connect to a new one. If this is not possible, the wires are cut and reconnected.
External characteristics of the lamp
When planning to replace halogens with 12 volt LED versions, it should be noted that in most cases the chandelier looks different from its previous design due to bulbs protruding from the shades. This usually happens because even with a standard base, diode lighting elements can have larger body dimensions.
To avoid this, lamps should be selected not only according to the characteristics and type of holder, but also according to size. If the desired model could not be found, it is quite possible to install larger analogues. In this case, the bulbs protruding from the ceiling will be visible only in the off state. When the lamp is on, the bright light will hide all the flaws.
Is it advisable to replace halogen with diode
The power comparison above has already been done, and the result was in favor of the LED lamp. So, they should be installed, if only because of the significant energy savings. If you choose the right model, then the bulbs will not affect the external characteristics of the lamp.
However, there is another nuance that determines the quality of lighting. It is about the color temperature of the light source. Halogens emit yellow light (2700-3000 K). Diode analogues are represented by a wider range of models with a color temperature from 2,700 to 6,500 K. Therefore, you should carefully select a 12 volt lighting element so that the lighting is comfortable.
Economy rating
Despite the high cost of diode bulbs, it is more expedient to install them, since they last a long time (from 30,000 hours) and consume a minimum of energy. As a result, the LED light source will pay off pretty quickly. And halogen lamps do not function for more than 2,000 hours, in addition, they consume ten times more energy.
The conclusion suggests itself: it is preferable to install versions based on diodes. In addition, the cost of a new design (purchase of LED bulbs and power supplies) is low (2,000-3,000 rubles), which depends on the type of power source and the number of bulbs.
You won’t have to spend a lot of money, since low-voltage capsule bulbs are cheaper than standard light sources. When choosing, you need to take into account the supply voltage of the lamps, the type of base and the dimensions of the case. You should also carefully select the power supply.
I’ll make a reservation right away, this is not a review, but my personal impressions, the product was bought for my hard-earned money. All measurements were taken at work, unfortunately without photos ... Who is still interested, I ask under the cat.
A small introduction. My wife and I started repairs in the hall. On the occasion, a chandelier with 36 halogen lamps and a remote control was purchased on the notorious ad site "Avito" for 5,000 rubles (the price of a new one is more than 20,000 rubles. Lusta is used but outwardly in excellent condition, the lamps turn on 3 groups of 8+10+18 lamps. 
Inside the chandelier there are 6 12 volt power supplies and a 3-channel controller. Due to the huge power consumption of 20W X 36pcs, you will agree a lot. It was decided to replace the halogens with diode lamps. The task was further complicated by the fact that the internal diameter of the diffuser is only 11 mm. 
By the way, the former caring owner has already tried to do something similar, but as I understand it, the result did not suit him, but he left me 5 diode corn as a legacy, thanks to which I did not step on his rake.
So, let's begin:
Our heroes
one). On the hands there were those same 5 corns of an unknown Chinese manufacturer. 
Empirically it turned out:
consumes corn 1.2 watts
My impressions
+ I don't think they are expensive.
- it flickers on the camera (does not flicker when powered by a constant)
- shines with a nasty blue-white light
- it's pretty dim
2). For the sake of an experiment offline, I bought a pair of gaus lamps (the lamps are larger in diameter and are not included in the diffuser), I took them just for comparison. Until recently, I had a pretty good opinion about this manufacturer, but I didn’t like this particular lamp. 
Specifications declared by the manufacturer:
Base: G4
Working voltage: 12V
Luminous flux: 75lm
Power consumption: 1 watt
Analog: 10 watts
Number of LEDs:
LEDs: Epistar
Color temperature: warm 2700K
Illumination angle: 180°
Shape: Capsule
Diffuser: Transparent
Scope: General lighting
Operating temperature range: -20...+50
Dimensions: 28x12mm
Service life: 10 years
Warranty: 3 years
Empirically it turned out:
consumes 0.8 watts
My impressions
I took 104 rubles each (offline is not expensive for the brand)
+ practically corresponds to the declared power
+ almost no flicker on camera
The light temperature is still closer to white, but definitely not 2700 without blue
- 180 degree angle is too small
It is difficult to draw a conclusion from this light bulb. For me, not so much...
3). And finally, for the sake of which we all gathered here today led lamp CK365. 
According to the seller
Base: G4
Power supply: DC / AC12V
LED type: COB0705
Light temperature: 2800-3200K
Brightness: 160LM
Power: 2W
Angle: 360 degrees
Dimensions: 10*30mm
Empirically it turned out:
consumes 1.3 watts
My impressions
Corresponds to light temperature
+ Shines brighter than the rest in the review
+ Doesn't flicker on camera
Power not as advertised
-They are expensive without coupons, but Ali has options at an affordable price.
Well, a couple of photos of what happened in the end. 
diodes 
diodes + halogen
Well, at the request of the workers, how it shines 
diodes
diodes+halogen
A short video about brightness :)
Later, when I buy the rest of the remaining lamps, I will change the power supplies in the chandelier for one 100 padded jacket plus, I will put a controller from LED strips to adjust the brightness, since it turned out that the lamps are dimming, not a fact, you need to check on the controller ...
The lamps are not dimmable, checked, but cheap corn without stabilization dims perfectly, provided that a power supply unit from LED strips is used
Modernization of a chandelier by replacing LED lamps instead of halogen ones is the simplest and most cost-effective procedure.
What do we change to
Halogen (halogen?) lamp. Halogens operate on the principle of incandescent lamps. In them, light is emitted by a hot tungsten filament. The inner cavity of the flask is filled with a special chemical composition that prevents rapid wear of the spiral and failure of the product.
In everyday life, they are powered by 12-24 volt current sources. They are used in conjunction with electronic converters (transformers) that lower the voltage to the required value.
LED bulbs. These are assemblies from an array of semiconductor elements that can glow under the influence of an electric current. All emitters are connected in series-parallel to each other and are designed for certain power parameters.
LEDs operate on direct current only. In order to adjust a standard household network to the specified values, special electronic devices are used - drivers.
Technical aspects of installing LEDs instead of halogens
The process of installing LED lamps in a chandelier instead of halogen ones comes down to changing the power circuit. Here are some solutions.
Option 1
Complete replacement of power supplies. This is the most expensive upgrade option, but also the most reliable.
Transformers are removed from the lamp body and a DC converter for LED is inserted. Its power should exceed the total power of all lamps by 1.5 times. Large chandeliers can have several circuits, each of which has a separate mode of operation (chandeliers with remote control). In this case, you will need a separate driver for each circuit.
Also, if you can’t get by with one device, you can divide 1 circuit into groups and power each with a separate driver. At the same time, the input of all blocks is connected in parallel: phase wires are assembled into one node, zero - into another.
It is convenient to use intermediate terminal blocks for connection, but they must provide reliable electrical contact. WAGO connectors have proven themselves well.
If this is your option, there will be a video at the end of the article that shows in detail how to change halogens to LEDs in chandeliers with several circuits.
Option 2
Simplest. Replacement of halogen lamps in the chandelier with LED ones with built-in rectifiers operating from the same voltage as in the original version.
Here, in general, it will not be necessary to carry out any work - it will be enough to put diodes with the same base in place of halogens. You can find out that you have the required type of LED lamps by marking. Letter designation AC/DC.
The disadvantage of the method is insufficient illumination due to a voltage drop on the internal bridge. We can increase the brightness by increasing the power.
Option 3
Models of LED-lamps operating from 220 volts are selected. Their connection is made in parallel, from the household network. It is required to remove the step-down transformers and directly feed the lamps. No other auxiliary devices are needed.
Important! If the chandelier worked on 12-volt halogens, and we put ice with a rated voltage of 220V (with a built-in driver), then you should be prepared to replace the connecting cables in the chandelier. If they are not designed for such a current, at best, we will simply burn them, at worst, we will triple the fire.
Converting a chandelier with halogen lamps to LEDs with a built-in driver Subtleties of replacing halogen lamps with LED
What is important to consider when replacing halogen lamps with LED:
- plinth. You should choose LED with the same base as in the original chandelier.
- The problem might be low power consumption LED assemblies. Some models of electronic transformers are equipped with an automatic shutdown function at low load. With diodes, the chandelier may flicker or not work at all. It is solved by removing the transformer and replacing it with a led driver.
- Directionality of light LED lamps. The angle of propagation of the light flux for halogens is 360 °, for LEDs it depends on the design. Choose models with wide dispersion lenses, preferably with a frosted diffuser, otherwise you will get uneven lighting.
- Remember about ceiling design when choosing LED bulbs. The LED lamp may not fit in its original seat or will protrude and look unaesthetic.
- Colorful temperature LED lamps. Most LEDs shine with cold white light (4000K - 6000K), it is undesirable to put them in children's rooms. Perfect for a living room or office.
The purpose of retrofitting chandeliers is to save electricity. It should be understood that the modernization of one light source will pay off no earlier than in two to three months (for rooms with constant use of lighting). It is more efficient to carry out refurbishment of several sections of the dwelling at once.
When choosing semiconductor lamps, you do not need to save. Miser pays twice. A cheap product produced by an unknown manufacturer is often of poor quality and quickly becomes unusable.
